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So i may have posted a thread on this topic before but not sure.
i changed my piston rungs last week and the car wont start afterwards, it turned over but just wont start..
i took it to the dealership and said its compression problem so change the rings that i got aff ebay because was kinda skeptic that those were my problem even though i clocked them properly as you se here in the picture
but even if i didn't set them in this order it still shouldn't be problem as long as the gaps are not at the same spot.
now I'm having the same problem after i got these mahle rings from Oreiley and set gaps a
0.007 first rings
0.009 second ring
Oil rings 0.012 as what in the repair manual.
Fuel pump. Working pretty fine. I checked the check the tip of the spark plugs and you can tell that the injectors working because the tip of the plugs are wet except for number one cylinder you can see its getting fuel buts not wet as the other 3 plugs so I'm thinking that I'm not getting any sparks on the 2, 3 and 4 cylinders but those are not getting sparks because they are wet..
any good solution to this to will help a lot because its my only way to work..
nope i installed them as detected on the paper.
i double check the cam timing and i was bein a fool not to check the up mark on the back of the cam gear pulley. The up mark on it was turned down instead of bein in the up position so i think thats my problem of to why it wont start. I fixed it just now but my battery Maybe low because the light in my dash starts to flicker when i try to start. I will post tomorrow if things change..in the mean time, you think that will be my problem and causing low compression right?
It wouldn't explain why the compression would be low on only 3 cylinders. Have you inspected the valvetrain at all? Wouldn't be surprised if you'd bent a few of em
It wouldn't explain why the compression would be low on only 3 cylinders. Have you inspected the valvetrain at all? Wouldn't be surprised if you'd bent a few of em
how will i be able to inspect the Valve with head not off though?
yeah,i know about leak down test. But i hope it starts tomorrow when i connect the jumper cable from another car to my battery..it make signs like it want to start today after i realized the cam timing was off but because my battery was running low on juice. It make sounds like (bub bub ans and then light start to flicker..
The crankshaft rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. Cylinder one is at TDC when the cam "UP" mark is up and also when it's down. All you had to do was rotate the crank one more rotation and the cam mark would have been up, that's completely normal.
The crankshaft rotates twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. Cylinder one is at TDC when the cam "UP" mark is up and also when it's down. All you had to do was rotate the crank one more rotation and the cam mark would have been up, that's completely normal.
hey, thanks for your information but i do know how to set the timing.i was just tooo damn rushy trying to get things don before night and mess up..now i call a shop and told the mechanic what happened and he told me that i may have bent some valves and if i have ben valve it may start or May not start and wont stay on because I'm losing compression..now i have to go to junkyard to get a head for 100 bucks and put on because i want to have my ride for work.i was thinking of replacing the valves thats bent but it may cost me more than a 100 bucks because of parts and tool i need to buy..
hey, thanks for your information but i do know how to set the timing.
I was simply saying it may not have been out of time. With the crank at TDC the cam will either be at TDC or 180° off, both are valid.
Originally Posted by Tracecross30
now i have to go to junkyard to get a head for 100 bucks
Don't you think you should first verify bent valves before wasting more money? If only some are bent you should be able to tell by looking at the valve stems under the valve cover. Also, leak down test will tell you for sure.
I was simply saying it may not have been out of time. With the crank at TDC the cam will either be at TDC or 180° off, both are valid.
Don't you think you should first verify bent valves before wasting more money? If only some are bent you should be able to tell by looking at the valve stems under the valve cover. Also, leak down test will tell you for sure.
yes,i was thinking of checking to see how many that are bent and replace them. Can the seals be reuse over the valve stems?
It sounds like you've already blown several hundred dollars on this thing. At this rate, you'd be better keeping your money, selling that civic and buying another one.
It sounds like you've already blown several hundred dollars on this thing. At this rate, you'd be better keeping your money, selling that civic and buying another one.
dont have money to buy a car for 1000s of dollars rather take off the head and replace the valves that bent. Much cheaper that way.
After you do that, you still need to include the 5 trips to the mechanic because you still can't figure out why it won't run.
i already talk to a mechanic and he told me if the timing was off that much its valve/valves that got bent and theres bent valve it wint start because it loosing compression..it was the cam timing that was off, the up mark was pointing exactly downward in stead of up so that was way off out of timing and in that way, there will be bent valves.
the up mark was pointing exactly downward in stead of up so that was way off out of timing and in that way, there will be bent valves.
Again.....see my previous post.
Originally Posted by BrotatoChip
With the crank at TDC the cam will either be at TDC or 180° off, both are valid.
Meaning with the crank at TDC the "UP" mark on the cam will either be straight up or straight down. The engine is still in time either way.
You haven't proven the timing was off enough to bend valves and you haven't done a leak down to verify bent valves. Low/no compression is why the engine won't start, do a leak down to narrow down why.
Meaning with the crank at TDC the "UP" mark on the cam will either be straight up or straight down. The engine is still in time either way.
You haven't proven the timing was off enough to bend valves and you haven't done a leak down to verify bent valves. Low/no compression is why the engine won't start, do a leak down to narrow down why.
well I'm keeping it in the up position because it should be in that direction but i understand you though..
If that's your response, then you clearly don't understand him.
i clearly understand. He clearly said if the up mark in the down or up position the number. 1cylinder will still be in the up position. Ok so i watch a video on youtube with (chtisfix) working on a D16 civic. You see In this link
and he check for everything and the car wouldn't start, he check the timing and the up mark was i the down position and he set it to the up position and the car starts right up. So why it wouldn't start before? D17 and d17 engine are basically the same sep up its just few things on both are a little different.
And does anyone of you guys know what this rubber (z) shape thing come from? I found it on the ground when i first take out my engine..
Last edited by Tracecross30; Dec 8, 2020 at 04:57 PM.
Reason: More information
I had a no start condition after replacing my rings, as well.
I ended up leaving the spark plug tubes open for a night to remove any gas flooding, then holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine.
even with the rings clocked wrong, it will start... did that once, lol, had smoke flying out from under my hood.
If that doesn't work then your provably missing
-a ground connection
-injector pulse
-fuel delivery
-spark
-timing
-compression (but I think that is only possible with a bent valve or timing off)
-check all grounds fuses and relays and CELs
-you can check fuel by disconnecting the line before the fuel rail, and turning the key (make sure to catch the fuel)
-you can check ignition pulse with a $10 test light
-for timing check with a Haynes manual for procedure
-you can buy a compression test kit on amazon for $50 l, or rent one at a parts shop.
I had a no start condition after replacing my rings, as well.
I ended up leaving the spark plug tubes open for a night to remove any gas flooding, then holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine.
even with the rings clocked wrong, it will start... did that once, lol, had smoke flying out from under my hood.
If that doesn't work then your provably missing
-a ground connection
-injector pulse
-fuel delivery
-spark
-timing
-compression (but I think that is only possible with a bent valve or timing off)
-check all grounds fuses and relays and CELs
-you can check fuel by disconnecting the line before the fuel rail, and turning the key (make sure to catch the fuel)
-you can check ignition pulse with a $10 test light
-for timing check with a Haynes manual for procedure
-you can buy a compression test kit on amazon for $50 l, or rent one at a parts shop.
ok..my plugs are less than a year old.i got them from honda. The timing mark on the cam gear that shows up, it was in the down position and i didn't realize until the about two days afterwards. And when i corrected it by line it in the up detection the it start and making some funny noise and wont stay on. I call a mechanic shop and tell them what i did and what happened afterwards and he told me that if my timing was off it wouldn't start and my valve will bend and i wont have compression to start so he told me straight up that i bend some valves along the way. So i Will take off the head and check for bend valves and try replace them and see whats up. I clock my rings in this order
Ok so i watch a video on youtube with (chtisfix) working on a D16 civic. You see In this link https://youtu.be/PNhuDCVIydw
and he check for everything and the car wouldn't start, he check the timing and the up mark was i the down position and he set it to the up position and the car starts right up. So why it wouldn't start before?
You can clearly see the "UP" mark was not straight down. The marks on the side of the cam gear (red lines) have to line up with the top of the head (blue lines). The engine timing is off 2-3 teeth, that's enough to prevent a start but not enough to bend valves evidently. He showed the timing belt was loose as well which explains how that happened. Nothing against ChrisFix, it was a good video for the most part but there were a few concerns:
-Crank was rotated clockwise. This can cause the engine to jump time, doesn't necessarily matter in this case since it already was.
-He didn't understand the crank rotates twice to every one rotation of the cam either. The cam was not off a half rotation, just 2-3 teeth.
-He rotated the camshaft nearly a half rotation with pistons at TDC, that's a great way to bend valves if you're not careful.
This will be the last time I try to explain the "UP" mark being down and being in correct time. The crank spins twice for every one rotation of the cam, we all get that (I hope). Start with the crank at TDC and the cam mark up as well. Now rotate the crank counter-clockwise one rotation back to TDC, the cam mark is now straight down. The cam is no longer at TDC but the crank is, piston one and four are at TDC. Timing belt wasn't moved so timing is still good with the "UP" mark straight down. Rotate the crank once more back to TDC and now the cam lines up as well. The first time you set the crank at TDC you have no way of knowing weather the cam mark will be up or down but both are valid.
