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First thing, I'm tired of coming on here but this Headache D17 killing me. I adjusted the valves at 0.008 intake and 0.0010 exhaust and tortured them at 14ft lb but the car keep vibrating so opened it up again and recheck them and sone was loose and some tight. I didn't make the tight when i adjusted them but they keep getting tight and loos.. Should i put them at 0.007 In and 0.009 Ex. Will that be ok..amd why they keep getting tight and loose after i torque them?

 
Rep Power: 210

I think you meant .010 for the exhaust valves.
Valves tighten over time/use so you may want keep it at those specs or go .009 intake and .011 for exhaust.
Are any of the nuts or stud threads stripped?

Blue thread locker might work but it has heat limitations and definitely wasn't used at the Honda factory when new. Use at your own risk but best to research it or call the thread-locker technical support first. Have you checked dry and wet (oil) cylinder compression?

Valves adjustment: https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...se-help-83937/

 
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hmm. Dont you think if i go with the specs you just provided it will make the racker arm too loos and make lots of noise?
And no,i didn't do a compression test because i didn't tgink thats a compression issue. I didn't even drive 10 miles before i rechecked the valves and found them loose and tight.. I was thinking of using .007 intake and .009 Exhaust but not sure if that will make matters worse with the vibration or make it better.

 
Rep Power: 224

Are you using a torque wrench that is rated for 0-150 lb ft or something? I remember seeing once that you should only use a torque wrench 20% higher/lower than the limits, so that would be 30-120 lb ft. You could get a smaller torque wrench, maybe like a 1/4" drive that's capable of 168 in lbs (14 lb ft). You could also try setting your torque wrench to 16 lb ft or something.

Alternatively, just tighten them a little more by feel. I have never used a torque wrench on a valve adjustment nut and I've never had one come loose.

 
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i used a 3/8 torque wrench. Those ratios of torque wrenches you listed here can not use valve locknuts. They should be at 15ft lb i think. Its not that they came loose but some got tighter and some have more space between the valve stem and the bolt.

 
Rep Power: 512

Prolly a post of mine you saw from way back when. Navy taught me that my target torque should fall between 20 and 90% of the chosen torque wrench's calibrated range. For valve lash adjustment, I use my 50-250 in-lb torque wrench set to 168 in-lbs (because conversion)

being pedantic here, but 14 ft-lbs is the spec.

 
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I really need to have some solutions to this vibration that i having. I'm assuming its my valves causing it. Every time i adjusted these values and torture them to specs, 14-15ft some of got real tight and the car start vibrating. Check them again and its some of the valves got so so tight that .007 that i used for the intake side, it cant even go between the valve stem and the screw on the rocker arm.. When I'm adjusting the intake valves, most of them will give me trouble, when adjust to the feel that soothe me and when i lock the nut and check again, they will get extra tight than how i adjusted them before i locked them. And i will turn over the crank a couple of times and recheck them all over, some of them will get tight and some will got loos..when i first got this car this engine was smooth when it idle, sometimes i wondered if it still running. But since i changed the head gasket and the machine shop did replaced the valve stem seals and replaced one valve, things change shortly afterwards. All these misfire and vibration stuff started to happen. Is it the rocker arms need to replace.?0

 
Rep Power: 224

When you're tightening the nut do you still have the screwdriver holding the "bolt" portion so it doesn't move? Are you accurately setting TDC for each cylinder?

 
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yes, stil hold the screw driver in place and tighten the nut real tight then check again to make sure its fine then afterwards i torque. Sometimes when i torque them down the the space between the valve stem and the screw willl decrease and sometimes increase. And i had to replace one ricker arm yesterday because when i tried to torque it down i realized I'm not hearing the click from the wrench and i know that something is wrong so i stopped to check, when i reverse the wratchet the whole screw and nut was spinning together. I tried use the big screw driver i have to loosing the nut and it will never loosen.. You think i need to replace the rocker arms on the intake side? You think something i have mechanical problem that causing the valves to tighten up that quickly..and yes, i use the up Mark on the cam pulley and also make the two marks on the sides of the pulley level with the top of the head. I do exactly what the book said to do. What are your suggestions to my problem?

 
Rep Power: 210

Have you checked mechanical timing to see if the belt has slipped or cam/crank off a tooth or two?

My previous reply concerning valves adjust included the option to keep where you had or go looser but within spec range. Will they clatter at the looser spec range? I cannot say whether they will or will not but until you figure out your posted issue it won't matter.

 
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No, i didn't check the time as it starts pretty fine. And the valves are not making any clattering either. U might just get the intake shaft with the rocker arms on there from the junkyard and put in.. Its ad that I'm not having this issue with the Exhaust side but intead its the intake side.its about 45bucks for a rocker arm assembly at the junkyard. I also going to take off the cyl head and recheck the rings on the pistons for gapping because i didn't have any idea about gapping when i changed the rings.