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Hi All - So I'm tired of my daughters car dripping oil in my driveway... When I do the oil pump o-ring, is there something else I should do to the pump or anything else while I'm there?? Should it be cleaned somehow? or the pump cleaned somehow? Should something else be swapped too?
Background - I did the full head gasket, timing belt, water pump, etc about 500 miles ago (3 months - she doesn't drive far), and I didn't go the extra mile to change the dang o-ring...so of course it leaks.
Mileage: 200,050
I plan on putting a new o-ring and crank seal in when I do it. ANYTHING ELSE?? I don't want to touch it again for a while!
I would also replace the camshaft seal while I was in there.
Don't take off the crank seal until after you pull the oil pump. Not only is it 1000% easier to remove at that point, it also prevents (or greatly prevents if your a wild wrencher) you from banging the crank on removal.
I would also replace the camshaft seal while I was in there.
Don't take off the crank seal until after you pull the oil pump. Not only is it 1000% easier to remove at that point, it also prevents (or greatly prevents if your a wild wrencher) you from banging the crank on removal.
When I did the head gasket about 3 months ago, I replaced the cam and crank seals. But I figured since I'm pulling the oil pump off, I will just put another new crank seal on. $3 insurance policy.
I just did this job a few weeks ago. When I removed the pump, I chose to check the pump rotor clearances while I was in there. The clearances were well within tolerance. I'm sure it's the original pump.
You have to be careful removing the cover to access the rotors. I believe the fasteners are Philips head P3. I took a P3 bit, placed it in the slot and hit it with a hammer so it would stick in there. Then I attached an impact driver to the bit and broke the screw loose. I think there are 6 screws. You don't want to strip out the head of the screws trying to remove them with a standard screwdriver. They're on there tight.
I cleaned the whole pump with degreaser and water, let it dry, applied assembly lube to the rotors and then re-installed the cover. The torque for the screws is fairly low. It's around 50 or 90 in-lbs depending on the brand of your pump. A lower torque for Yamata, and a higher one for Aisin.
Re-installation of the oil pump is just like the oil pan. You have to use sealant between it and the block. IMPORTANT: I recommend applying sealant all the way around the o-ring. Don't put sealant on the o-ring itself, but rather on the flat sealing surface of the pump. I figure, even if the new o-ring fails somewhere down the road the oil still won't be able to leak past the sealant around it. See picture attached for sealant location
And make sure to clean the sealing surfaces VERY well. I recommend using a degreaser and brass brush (or scotchbrite), and then a final pass with acetone and a clean rag.
The other gasket to replace is where the pick-up tube attaches to the pump. On my pump (Yamata), it is a thin flimsy gasket.
I usually just let this common error stand, but I feel like sharing atm.
Japanese made/designed vehicles do not use the “Philips head” profile on their screws. They have a very different profile referred to as JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
Just like you should not use SAE size sockets on a metric bolt/nut, you should not use Philips screwdrivers on “JIS” screws.
Years ago I found out about the differences working on Japanese carburetors. I ordered a $40 set of 4 and I almost never strip a screw anymore.
I just did this job a few weeks ago. When I removed the pump, I chose to check the pump rotor clearances while I was in there. The clearances were well within tolerance. I'm sure it's the original pump.
You have to be careful removing the cover to access the rotors. I believe the fasteners are Philips head P3. I took a P3 bit, placed it in the slot and hit it with a hammer so it would stick in there. Then I attached an impact driver to the bit and broke the screw loose. I think there are 6 screws. You don't want to strip out the head of the screws trying to remove them with a standard screwdriver. They're on there tight.
I cleaned the whole pump with degreaser and water, let it dry, applied assembly lube to the rotors and then re-installed the cover. The torque for the screws is fairly low. It's around 50 or 90 in-lbs depending on the brand of your pump. A lower torque for Yamata, and a higher one for Aisin.
Re-installation of the oil pump is just like the oil pan. You have to use sealant between it and the block. IMPORTANT: I recommend applying sealant all the way around the o-ring. Don't put sealant on the o-ring itself, but rather on the flat sealing surface of the pump. I figure, even if the new o-ring fails somewhere down the road the oil still won't be able to leak past the sealant around it. See picture attached for sealant location
And make sure to clean the sealing surfaces VERY well. I recommend using a degreaser and brass brush (or scotchbrite), and then a final pass with acetone and a clean rag.
The other gasket to replace is where the pick-up tube attaches to the pump. On my pump (Yamata), it is a thin flimsy gasket.
I usually just let this common error stand, but I feel like sharing atm.
Japanese made/designed vehicles do not use the “Philips head” profile on their screws. They have a very different profile referred to as JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
Just like you should not use SAE size sockets on a metric bolt/nut, you should not use Philips screwdrivers on “JIS” screws.
Years ago I found out about the differences working on Japanese carburetors. I ordered a $40 set of 4 and I almost never strip a screw anymore.
07-10-2019
When I did the head gasket about 3 months ago, I replaced the cam and crank seals. But I figured since I'm pulling the oil pump off, I will just put another new crank seal on. $3 insurance policy.
