Rep Power: 0

Hello all I just joined up. So I’m having a issue with my battery light. I just replaced my alternator and now my battery will still come on sometimes at idle. But if switch on my headlights or turn on the ac or turn on the fan. Battery light go off immediately and the voltage will go back up to 13.8 and if I drive around with the lights on and the fan running the light will not come on at idle. I’m so confused I’ve never seen a battery turning off when electronics are turned on. Does any one have suggestions as to what might be going? Also if I turn the car off and restart it the the light will turn off and not come on until I drive and slow down to idle again. Battery and alternator and negative battery cable are all brand new. I forgot to mention my car is a 2001 civic LX. Just in case that matters.

 
Rep Power: 222

I'm going to guess you used a non-oem alternator

 
Rep Power: 99

I'll 2nd this guess. It doesn't necessarily have to be OEM, but if it is a reman alternator from the auto parts store, then the voltage regulator may be faulty. That's what was wrong with the reman alternator I bought from O'reilly Auto even though it tested good on their in-house tester...the voltage would fluctuate when the RPMs were lower.

I would suggest buying a used OEM alternator or a new alternator. I have had a new Remy that I purchased from Rock Auto installed for over a year and it has been working well.

 
Rep Power: 0

I went with a remanufactured duralast from autozone. I was thinking of taking it out returning it and get I brand new duralast. They already told me I could pay the difference seeingbis that they heave lifetime warranties. I just didn’t wanna have to remove it again these alternators are a pain to remove from the car.

 
Rep Power: 0

How come the battery light is not coming on when I have electronic items turned on in the car ? Just somthing to do with the regulator being faulty?
Also if I decide to buy one where can I buy a used oem alternator?

 
Rep Power: 222

Junkyard, last one I bought was $40, worked mint

 
Rep Power: 99

I'm not sure why it only happens when no load is on it, but that's what I observed with mine (or very similar). I'm sure there's a technical explanation for it that would reveal the weakness of low quality voltage regulators.

If you decide to pay the difference at AZ for the NEW alternator, I bet that would work. For a used OEM alternator, a local salvage yard or eBay. But either way, you have to do the job over again. It sucks but there's no way around it. At least you'll be faster this time, right?

 
Rep Power: 0

Lol faster yes I guess. But how can I trust a used oem alternator? It’s gonna have miles on it. I mean this car didn’t even have to stock alternator in it when I bought it how can I trust some other alternator out of the same year of car?

 
Rep Power: 99

OEM alternators are built to last a long time...that's why they cost so damn much (about $900 last time I checked). I think they're a better option than any reman alternator. If you can find one from a car that was rear-ended or something, that might be a good option. Ebay sells them for less than $100 probably.

I had my doubts too so I went with a new alternator...it's still working well today. So just upgrade to the new alternator from AZ.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you oh for everyone’s input. I’ve been exploring my options looking on eBay. I think I’m gonna just upgrade to the new duralast gold since I already have money in that plus I don’t wanna have to deal with returning another faulty alternator from eBay just incase that was to happen then I’d have to wait days for it. At least at autozone I can just drive down the street to get it. Knowing my luck I will get a oem off ebay and it will be faulty lol.Also why is it such a difference getting a remanufactured over a brand new one? Aren’t all the parts new and the same anyway? Just the case is reused correct? Or am I wrong?

 
Rep Power: 222

Probably reuse the winding as well

 
Rep Power: 367

car-part.com for scrapyards nearby. I use it a lot