KVR Rotors groupbuy interest
I sent an email to Telly explaining the rear rotor situation. Since brembo does not make OEM blanks for the rear of your vehicle, that eliminates a lot of brake manufacturers from creating cross drilled/slotted rotors for that application, since many use brembo as a platform.
To accomodate the EL crowd, I was trying to grab a set of high quality premium rotors, ship them to KVR, get them treated/slotted/plated, and then sent back to me with the rest of the group buy shipment. When I checked for premium rotors for your application, NOTHING was listed for anywhere were I had an account.
I then called back KVR and they found a set of premium OEM rotors, and will do those for me upon request. Problem is since its straying from their normal production process, the price is HIGH.
Their retail price is:
$258.00 + 15%tax = $296.70 EACH!
For a set, that is $593.40 including tax. Which is obviously ridiculous.
--------------------------
From here onwards, the EL people have 2 options:
Option 1
Only as part of this group buy I am doing them for as low as I possibly can, which is:
$351.85 + PST = $380.00
This price is for BOTH rear rotors, slotted or cross drilled, and plated either gold, silver, or black cadmium.
Option 2
Source yourself some OEM rotors (highly suggested you stick with a quality one, to ensure it can withstand the stresses associated with slots/cross-drilling) and give me the rotors. Im sure they are available at the dealership, and as SOME auto parts stores. It will then cost you:
$143.52 + PST = $155.00
This includes me shipping them to KVR, having them slotted or cross drilled, having them gold/silver/black CAD plated, having them shipped back to me.
I am trying to accomodate to the EL crowd as much as possible, let me know if you guys are interested in either of the two options.
If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
- chris
To accomodate the EL crowd, I was trying to grab a set of high quality premium rotors, ship them to KVR, get them treated/slotted/plated, and then sent back to me with the rest of the group buy shipment. When I checked for premium rotors for your application, NOTHING was listed for anywhere were I had an account.
I then called back KVR and they found a set of premium OEM rotors, and will do those for me upon request. Problem is since its straying from their normal production process, the price is HIGH.
Their retail price is:
$258.00 + 15%tax = $296.70 EACH!
For a set, that is $593.40 including tax. Which is obviously ridiculous.
--------------------------
From here onwards, the EL people have 2 options:
Option 1
Only as part of this group buy I am doing them for as low as I possibly can, which is:
$351.85 + PST = $380.00
This price is for BOTH rear rotors, slotted or cross drilled, and plated either gold, silver, or black cadmium.
Option 2
Source yourself some OEM rotors (highly suggested you stick with a quality one, to ensure it can withstand the stresses associated with slots/cross-drilling) and give me the rotors. Im sure they are available at the dealership, and as SOME auto parts stores. It will then cost you:
$143.52 + PST = $155.00
This includes me shipping them to KVR, having them slotted or cross drilled, having them gold/silver/black CAD plated, having them shipped back to me.
I am trying to accomodate to the EL crowd as much as possible, let me know if you guys are interested in either of the two options.
If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
- chris
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Updated list:
1) Blkcivic: slotted front rotors & gold-plated (pmt rec'd)
2) Damion: Slotted front rotors & Gold-plated
3) Jer2k: slotted & gold plated front rotors (pmt rec'd)
4) aprboy: slotted and ? plated front rotors -please let me know which plating you want
5) Telly:- slotted and black plated- still working on the rears bro.
1) Blkcivic: slotted front rotors & gold-plated (pmt rec'd)
2) Damion: Slotted front rotors & Gold-plated
3) Jer2k: slotted & gold plated front rotors (pmt rec'd)
4) aprboy: slotted and ? plated front rotors -please let me know which plating you want
5) Telly:- slotted and black plated- still working on the rears bro.
I'm minutely interested, but have questions... (I'm only interested in these for the look
)
- Anyone know what a set of Brembo blanks cost? (front and rears)... Fitting Acura ELs (2001)
- These platings... It's just a "plating".... correct? So since brake pads would be scouring the surface of the rotor, wouldn't the plating be worn off the surface of the rotor?
- How 'black' is the black cadmium? The pic on the website is small...
- Would you offer cross-drilled AND slotted? (Remember, I have an EL, so I'd be looking for fronts and rears, if I wanted to buy.) Note: I'd probably be interested in the cross-drilled for looks, as the slotted would be chewing up my stock pads too darned fast.... (no racing/auto crossing for this autotragic!)
)- Anyone know what a set of Brembo blanks cost? (front and rears)... Fitting Acura ELs (2001)
- These platings... It's just a "plating".... correct? So since brake pads would be scouring the surface of the rotor, wouldn't the plating be worn off the surface of the rotor?
- How 'black' is the black cadmium? The pic on the website is small...
- Would you offer cross-drilled AND slotted? (Remember, I have an EL, so I'd be looking for fronts and rears, if I wanted to buy.) Note: I'd probably be interested in the cross-drilled for looks, as the slotted would be chewing up my stock pads too darned fast.... (no racing/auto crossing for this autotragic!)
Originally Posted by FurBall
I'm minutely interested, but have questions... (I'm only interested in these for the look
)
- Anyone know what a set of Brembo blanks cost? (front and rears)... Fitting Acura ELs (2001)
- These platings... It's just a "plating".... correct? So since brake pads would be scouring the surface of the rotor, wouldn't the plating be worn off the surface of the rotor?
- How 'black' is the black cadmium? The pic on the website is small...
- Would you offer cross-drilled AND slotted? (Remember, I have an EL, so I'd be looking for fronts and rears, if I wanted to buy.) Note: I'd probably be interested in the cross-drilled for looks, as the slotted would be chewing up my stock pads too darned fast.... (no racing/auto crossing for this autotragic!)
)- Anyone know what a set of Brembo blanks cost? (front and rears)... Fitting Acura ELs (2001)
- These platings... It's just a "plating".... correct? So since brake pads would be scouring the surface of the rotor, wouldn't the plating be worn off the surface of the rotor?
- How 'black' is the black cadmium? The pic on the website is small...
- Would you offer cross-drilled AND slotted? (Remember, I have an EL, so I'd be looking for fronts and rears, if I wanted to buy.) Note: I'd probably be interested in the cross-drilled for looks, as the slotted would be chewing up my stock pads too darned fast.... (no racing/auto crossing for this autotragic!)
Now for the 2 other EL members above, they also requested prices for their EL's. As part of this group buy only, the prices for the EL are:
Option1:
$380.00 for the rears (including taxes, plating, drilling/slotting)
$150.00 for the fronts (including taxes, plating, drilling/slotting)
Option2:
Because the price of the rears are so high, you can also give me two rear OEM rotors of your brand choice (preferably premium quality) and I will ship them to KVR, have them slotted/drilled, plated, and sent back to me. The price of this is:
$155.00 (including taxes, plating, shipping, drilling/slotting)
If you choose to have them slotted AND drilled, it would be an extra $12.00 per rotor. However, I HIGHLY suggest against this choice because removing that much material from the rotor
- decreases a large amount of surface area (increasing braking distance)
- removes a large amount of mass (reducing head absorption abilities)
- significantly reduces structural integrity (because of the removed material)
While it may look good, they are not very performance oriented, and will not have the life that is generally expected of them. They will be more prone to warpage/cracking.
Your logic sounds like the best of both worlds, but combining these two methods of modification to brake rotors is not very practical. However, if your car is more for show and you understand the negative effects, I have no problem having them done for you.
As for your question about the black cadmium plating, it does not look very black. It looks sort of grey. Not nice and bright like silver, but definitely not anywhere near as black as in the pictures. I have seen them in person.
As for your question about the 'plating being rubbed off', you are correct. The plating will be rubbed off of the 'swept area' of the brake rotor. Keep in mind however this is normal, and that the plating is not needed there. As the pad makes contact with the rotor while you drive, it is impossible for rust to form in this area because there is constant contact. If the car sits for a few days and surface rust forms, soon as the car drives and you push the brakes once that rust diminshes. That area of rotors never rust on cars for that reason (unless the car sits parked for months)
The purpose of the plating is to go INSIDE the vents, and INSIDE the holes, and INSIDE the slots. These are the areas that rust forms, so the plating prevents rust from forming in these areas. If rust forms inside these areas, as the rotors age they loose their ability to properly absorb and dissipate heat.
If you have anymore questions please do not hesitate to post. Thanks!
- chris
Last edited by pigeon; Dec 14, 2005 at 11:22 PM.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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pigeon, Shifty, BlkCivic, thanks for keeping in contact with me through this whole deal. pigeon or Shifty, please contact me on MSN, I should be home around 10-ish tonight.
BTW I'm in, let me confirm:
2 x Civic/EL front rotors (they're the same no matter what KVR says)
2 x EL rear rotors
ALL slotted and black cadmium plated please. I can paypal or internet $$ transfer to one of you right now.
BTW I'm in, let me confirm:
2 x Civic/EL front rotors (they're the same no matter what KVR says)
2 x EL rear rotors
ALL slotted and black cadmium plated please. I can paypal or internet $$ transfer to one of you right now.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Oh one more thing, pigeon, I've been told the RSX rear pads are the same application as EL rear pads, can you please confirm this with KVR so I know which ones to get? Thanks homey.
Hey Telly, everything sounds awesome.
Regarding your pad question, the following pads are the same for the rears:
01-03 Acura EL Sedan
98-00 Acura 2.3CL & 3.0CL with 260mm front discs
98-00 Acura 3.0CL with 282mm front discs
97-98 Acura 3.0CL with 282mm front discs with bolt-on hub type discs
97-01 Acura Integra Type-R with 5 bolt hub
89-90 Acura Legend Sedan
02-04 Acura RSX -type s and non-type s have different fronts, same rears
96-98 Acura 2.5TL with 4 bolt hub
96-98 Acura 3.2TL with 5 bolt hub
92-94 Acura Vigor
All these vehicles have the same rear pad according to KVR part numbers, which is part number M7418
This is $55.00 including tax.
If anyone has any questions regarding the KVR pads or KVR rotors, myself combined with ken have answered most questions in this thread, and other frequently asked questions and answers can be found on our website:
http://www.stagefourmotorsports.com/kvr/faq.htm
Thanks guys!
Regarding your pad question, the following pads are the same for the rears:
01-03 Acura EL Sedan
98-00 Acura 2.3CL & 3.0CL with 260mm front discs
98-00 Acura 3.0CL with 282mm front discs
97-98 Acura 3.0CL with 282mm front discs with bolt-on hub type discs
97-01 Acura Integra Type-R with 5 bolt hub
89-90 Acura Legend Sedan
02-04 Acura RSX -type s and non-type s have different fronts, same rears
96-98 Acura 2.5TL with 4 bolt hub
96-98 Acura 3.2TL with 5 bolt hub
92-94 Acura Vigor
All these vehicles have the same rear pad according to KVR part numbers, which is part number M7418
This is $55.00 including tax.
If anyone has any questions regarding the KVR pads or KVR rotors, myself combined with ken have answered most questions in this thread, and other frequently asked questions and answers can be found on our website:
http://www.stagefourmotorsports.com/kvr/faq.htm
Thanks guys!
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Hi pigeon, can you pm me pricing on fronts + rears for my EL? What's the material on these pads you're mentioning and are they more or less dusty than OEM? More details por favor, and if you're online tonite I'll bug you more then. Thanks again bud.
Originally Posted by TeLLy
Hi pigeon, can you pm me pricing on fronts + rears for my EL? What's the material on these pads you're mentioning and are they more or less dusty than OEM? More details por favor, and if you're online tonite I'll bug you more then. Thanks again bud.
I dont remember it ever being a problem when I had rims either.
However, to be sure for you guys, I just contacted one of the other memebers who had an 00 Civic SiR who used KVR pads all last summer. I asked him if they dusted, and he replied during street driving they were the same as his OEM pads. Under racing conditions at the Shannonville speedway they did dust quite a bit, but aside from that they were normal.
To answer your question about what they're made for, they are semimetallic (increased friction when compared to organic) pads, with kevlar insulation (durable) and carbon fibre weaves (high heat resistance).
Im sending u the pm now as well!
KVR uses Brembo OEM rotors, therefore KVR blanks are really Brembo blanks. If you wished to purchase a set of blanks, I can get them for you, and I can even get them CAD plated as well.
To answer your question about the rotors being bling, and for anyone else interested. Here is the good the bad and the ugly regarding rotor selection:
To answer your question about the rotors being bling, and for anyone else interested. Here is the good the bad and the ugly regarding rotor selection:
Cross Drilled, Slotted, or Stock?
Many companies advertise high performance braking parts, with one of the most popular parts being brake rotors. Tuners have the choice of choosing either cross drilled rotors, slotted rotors, or staying with the same basic design that the vehicle came with.
Cross Drilled Rotors
Cross drilled rotors were developed initially to allow “degassing” or to “outgas” the brake pads. Older vehicles were equipped with brake pads comprised of a compound that would release a gas when it reached a specified temperature, which induced a problem in braking performance. This gas would become trapped between the pad surface and the rotor contact area, creating a sort of lubrication effect and lowering the overall friction coefficient of the braking system. Keep in mind that friction is what allows a braking system to do its job. The drilled holes in the rotor would allow a place for these gases to escape to. The gases would enter the holes, and then be released to the atmosphere through the vents in the rotor. Another beneficial effect of cross drilled rotors is that air flows through these holes (which increased surface area), allowing the temperature of the rotor to be reduced at a quicker rate. Up to this point cross drilled rotors seem to be ideal; however this is where things change.
Since the early 1950’s automotive manufacturers have stopped using pad compounds that created this gassing effect when temperatures are increased. Since this compound is not in use anymore, there is no longer any gas trapped between the pad and the rotor which renders the “degassing” effect useless. Secondly, when a solid vented rotor is taken and holes are drilled into it, the overall structural integrity of the brake rotor is reduced. While this is not immediately apparent, the overall probability that the rotor will crack in the long run is higher than that of a stock rotor. Cross drilled rotors also have a higher operating temperature than their OEM equivalent. While the air flowing through the holes allow the rotor to cool down quicker, it is important to remember that because so much material of the rotor is missing, it is unable to absorb the same quantity of heat from the pads as it would if there were no holes. Keep in mind that one important characteristic of a brake rotor, is it must dissipate heat from the pads to the atmosphere. When a driver feels a soft pedal due to “overheated brakes” what the driver is actually feeling is overheated pads (we will omit the probability of boiling brake fluid). What brake rotors do is absorb as much heat from the pads as possible and then dissipate it to the atmosphere. While cross drilled rotors are more effective at dissipating the heat to the atmosphere, they are not capable of absorbing the same amount of heat off of the pads. In the end, it can be argued that the pads and rotors end up operating at higher temperatures. Lastly, a cross drilled rotor increases stopping distances when compared to its OEM equivalent. This is primarily due to the fact that the surface area of the rotor is reduced, and there is now less area for the pad to bite on to. Based on all of this info, it is shown that when a cross drilled rotor is compared to its OEM equivalent, the OEM design surpasses the cross drilled design in every aspect. However, there are situations where cross drilled rotors are “acceptable”.
As a quick review of the cons of cross drilled rotors, we have:
- decreased structural integrity
- higher operating temperatures due to less mass
- increased stopping distances due to less surface area
What most manufacturers have done to overcome this is they would increase the overall size of the rotor/pad combination, drilling the holes smaller, and giving them a CAD coating. What this does is it increases the mass of the rotor, allowing more heat absorption from the pad as well as providing more “bite” area for the pads. The oversized rotor may also be thicker as well as having smaller holes, increasing the structural integrity. The cons of going with an oversized rotor are as follows:
- oversized pads and sometimes new calipers must be used to make use of
- increased surface area
- new wheels may be needed
- all four brakes must be upgraded equivalently in order to keep brake bias as originally engineered
- significantly greater unsprung weight, resulting in slower acceleration
When one actually takes a step back and wonders if it is worth it to go through all of this complications, it is likely that most people once informed will decide against it. Especially because the holes are not needed for the pad compounds used in brakes today. However, a pair of CAD plated cross drilled rotors are definitely aesthetically pleasing, and for some people that in itself is enough reason to purchase them. Although they would have a shorter lifespan, for street driving they would suffice. It is just pertinent that the driver/tuner isn’t fooling themselves into thinking that swapping over to a set of cross drilled rotors is a performance upgrade.
Slotted Rotors
Slotted rotors share many of the characteristics of their cross drilled brother:
- “out-gassing” effect (which is useless with current pad compounds)
- increased stopping distances
- increased operating temperatures
- decreased structural integrity
What they do differently than cross drilled rotors, is that they increase initial bite in wet and dry conditions. This is a result of the pad ‘grabbing’ into the slots. This increased bite also increases pad wear and operating temperatures. Slotted rotors are similar in nature to cross drilled rotors, and while they are an upgrade in certain scenarios, they are not in others.
Blank Rotors (OEM Design)
This is ideally the best choice for a street car that is a weekend racer. These rotors are able to absorb heat well and perform consistently while maintaining its structural integrity, especially when a high quality TUV certified rotor is used (such as Brembo blanks). An optimal setup for a weekend racer would be a high quality pad, high temp DOT3 brake fluid (such as Ford DOT3 fluid), and a set of stainless steel braided brake lines, on a set of Brembo blank rotors. This setup will offer a higher friction coefficient, greater resistance to high temperatures, durability, confidence inspiring predictable pedal modulation (depending on pad choice) and does not break the bank. Not to mention that it is also perfectly streetable, and makes for an overall more enjoyable driving experience. There is just one last question we must address, because I am sure someone is thinking this.
Why do some race cars have slotted or drilled rotors?
There are a few reasons that you will see these kinds of rotors on Porsches and other high end vehicles. One important reason is the better initial bite for slotted rotors. Also, to ensure that the rotors are durable as well, they are manufactured with the holes cast into them. Unlike having the rotor start off blank and then getting drilled, having the rotors cast with the holes in them allows them to be more durable than a drilled equivalent. These high end manufacturers also spend large amounts of time engineering their rotors, optimizing rotor thickness, vent direction, hole diameter, rotor material, ect. In the end, this is a completely different rotor than one that was simply taken off the shelves and placed in a drill press. When considering everything that is being said, the user needs to decide on their intentions with their vehicles, and with the information provided make a decision that best suits their needs.
Thanks for reading and good luck!
- Chris De Freitas
Copyright May/05 – Chris De Freitas
Many companies advertise high performance braking parts, with one of the most popular parts being brake rotors. Tuners have the choice of choosing either cross drilled rotors, slotted rotors, or staying with the same basic design that the vehicle came with.
Cross Drilled Rotors
Cross drilled rotors were developed initially to allow “degassing” or to “outgas” the brake pads. Older vehicles were equipped with brake pads comprised of a compound that would release a gas when it reached a specified temperature, which induced a problem in braking performance. This gas would become trapped between the pad surface and the rotor contact area, creating a sort of lubrication effect and lowering the overall friction coefficient of the braking system. Keep in mind that friction is what allows a braking system to do its job. The drilled holes in the rotor would allow a place for these gases to escape to. The gases would enter the holes, and then be released to the atmosphere through the vents in the rotor. Another beneficial effect of cross drilled rotors is that air flows through these holes (which increased surface area), allowing the temperature of the rotor to be reduced at a quicker rate. Up to this point cross drilled rotors seem to be ideal; however this is where things change.
Since the early 1950’s automotive manufacturers have stopped using pad compounds that created this gassing effect when temperatures are increased. Since this compound is not in use anymore, there is no longer any gas trapped between the pad and the rotor which renders the “degassing” effect useless. Secondly, when a solid vented rotor is taken and holes are drilled into it, the overall structural integrity of the brake rotor is reduced. While this is not immediately apparent, the overall probability that the rotor will crack in the long run is higher than that of a stock rotor. Cross drilled rotors also have a higher operating temperature than their OEM equivalent. While the air flowing through the holes allow the rotor to cool down quicker, it is important to remember that because so much material of the rotor is missing, it is unable to absorb the same quantity of heat from the pads as it would if there were no holes. Keep in mind that one important characteristic of a brake rotor, is it must dissipate heat from the pads to the atmosphere. When a driver feels a soft pedal due to “overheated brakes” what the driver is actually feeling is overheated pads (we will omit the probability of boiling brake fluid). What brake rotors do is absorb as much heat from the pads as possible and then dissipate it to the atmosphere. While cross drilled rotors are more effective at dissipating the heat to the atmosphere, they are not capable of absorbing the same amount of heat off of the pads. In the end, it can be argued that the pads and rotors end up operating at higher temperatures. Lastly, a cross drilled rotor increases stopping distances when compared to its OEM equivalent. This is primarily due to the fact that the surface area of the rotor is reduced, and there is now less area for the pad to bite on to. Based on all of this info, it is shown that when a cross drilled rotor is compared to its OEM equivalent, the OEM design surpasses the cross drilled design in every aspect. However, there are situations where cross drilled rotors are “acceptable”.
As a quick review of the cons of cross drilled rotors, we have:
- decreased structural integrity
- higher operating temperatures due to less mass
- increased stopping distances due to less surface area
What most manufacturers have done to overcome this is they would increase the overall size of the rotor/pad combination, drilling the holes smaller, and giving them a CAD coating. What this does is it increases the mass of the rotor, allowing more heat absorption from the pad as well as providing more “bite” area for the pads. The oversized rotor may also be thicker as well as having smaller holes, increasing the structural integrity. The cons of going with an oversized rotor are as follows:
- oversized pads and sometimes new calipers must be used to make use of
- increased surface area
- new wheels may be needed
- all four brakes must be upgraded equivalently in order to keep brake bias as originally engineered
- significantly greater unsprung weight, resulting in slower acceleration
When one actually takes a step back and wonders if it is worth it to go through all of this complications, it is likely that most people once informed will decide against it. Especially because the holes are not needed for the pad compounds used in brakes today. However, a pair of CAD plated cross drilled rotors are definitely aesthetically pleasing, and for some people that in itself is enough reason to purchase them. Although they would have a shorter lifespan, for street driving they would suffice. It is just pertinent that the driver/tuner isn’t fooling themselves into thinking that swapping over to a set of cross drilled rotors is a performance upgrade.
Slotted Rotors
Slotted rotors share many of the characteristics of their cross drilled brother:
- “out-gassing” effect (which is useless with current pad compounds)
- increased stopping distances
- increased operating temperatures
- decreased structural integrity
What they do differently than cross drilled rotors, is that they increase initial bite in wet and dry conditions. This is a result of the pad ‘grabbing’ into the slots. This increased bite also increases pad wear and operating temperatures. Slotted rotors are similar in nature to cross drilled rotors, and while they are an upgrade in certain scenarios, they are not in others.
Blank Rotors (OEM Design)
This is ideally the best choice for a street car that is a weekend racer. These rotors are able to absorb heat well and perform consistently while maintaining its structural integrity, especially when a high quality TUV certified rotor is used (such as Brembo blanks). An optimal setup for a weekend racer would be a high quality pad, high temp DOT3 brake fluid (such as Ford DOT3 fluid), and a set of stainless steel braided brake lines, on a set of Brembo blank rotors. This setup will offer a higher friction coefficient, greater resistance to high temperatures, durability, confidence inspiring predictable pedal modulation (depending on pad choice) and does not break the bank. Not to mention that it is also perfectly streetable, and makes for an overall more enjoyable driving experience. There is just one last question we must address, because I am sure someone is thinking this.
Why do some race cars have slotted or drilled rotors?
There are a few reasons that you will see these kinds of rotors on Porsches and other high end vehicles. One important reason is the better initial bite for slotted rotors. Also, to ensure that the rotors are durable as well, they are manufactured with the holes cast into them. Unlike having the rotor start off blank and then getting drilled, having the rotors cast with the holes in them allows them to be more durable than a drilled equivalent. These high end manufacturers also spend large amounts of time engineering their rotors, optimizing rotor thickness, vent direction, hole diameter, rotor material, ect. In the end, this is a completely different rotor than one that was simply taken off the shelves and placed in a drill press. When considering everything that is being said, the user needs to decide on their intentions with their vehicles, and with the information provided make a decision that best suits their needs.
Thanks for reading and good luck!
- Chris De Freitas
Copyright May/05 – Chris De Freitas
that article can also be found at:
http://www.stagefourmotorsports.com/techinfo/rotors.htm
http://www.stagefourmotorsports.com/techinfo/rotors.htm
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Great link. I was expecting to get bashed for my bling comment. I'm glad my views are not my own.
Would plated blanks be included in the group buy?
What about 5 bolt, ventilated front disc/solid rear disc brakes, 10.3f/10.2r for my 06? Same as the RSX Premium/base.
Would plated blanks be included in the group buy?
What about 5 bolt, ventilated front disc/solid rear disc brakes, 10.3f/10.2r for my 06? Same as the RSX Premium/base.
Last edited by DumbasSi; Dec 15, 2005 at 11:09 PM.
Hey guys, I just spoke to KVR and have a minor correction to make..
While KVR does use Brembo rotors, the ones in the group buy are NOT brembo rotors, they are made in house by KVR, intentionally for slotting/drilling ect and meet or exceed all OEM standards.
So to now properly answer your questions, for your 01-04 Civic if you want:
Gold/Silver/Black CAD Plated Front Blank KVR Rotors: $135.00 including tax
Gold/Silver/Black CAD Plated Front Blank BREMBO Rotors: $177.00 including tax
Regarding the 06 Civic, they dont have a listing for it specifically. You said its the same as the RSX, but do you mean the 02-04 RSX or the 06 RSX?
Another option you have, is you could give me NEW OEM rotors if they dont offer it for your car, and if you just wanted them to be plated I can ship them out and have them plated and shipped back. The price for that is $70.00 for the pair, including tax and shipping. If you wanted them to be either slotted or drilled AND plated, it would cost $155.00 for the pair, and includes all tax and shipping as well.
While KVR does use Brembo rotors, the ones in the group buy are NOT brembo rotors, they are made in house by KVR, intentionally for slotting/drilling ect and meet or exceed all OEM standards.
Originally Posted by DumbasSi
Great link. I was expecting to get bashed for my bling comment. I'm glad my views are not my own.
Would plated blanks be included in the group buy?
What about 5 bolt, ventilated front disc/solid rear disc brakes, 10.3f/10.2r for my 06? Same as the RSX Premium/base.
Would plated blanks be included in the group buy?
What about 5 bolt, ventilated front disc/solid rear disc brakes, 10.3f/10.2r for my 06? Same as the RSX Premium/base.
Gold/Silver/Black CAD Plated Front Blank KVR Rotors: $135.00 including tax
Gold/Silver/Black CAD Plated Front Blank BREMBO Rotors: $177.00 including tax
Regarding the 06 Civic, they dont have a listing for it specifically. You said its the same as the RSX, but do you mean the 02-04 RSX or the 06 RSX?
Another option you have, is you could give me NEW OEM rotors if they dont offer it for your car, and if you just wanted them to be plated I can ship them out and have them plated and shipped back. The price for that is $70.00 for the pair, including tax and shipping. If you wanted them to be either slotted or drilled AND plated, it would cost $155.00 for the pair, and includes all tax and shipping as well.
Ok guys, I will not have internet access until sunday afternoon. If you have any questions or concerns either post or PM me and I will reply to you on sunday.
I would like to get this ordered up on monday, so those who need to hand in deposits please do so.
Thanks!
I would like to get this ordered up on monday, so those who need to hand in deposits please do so.
Thanks!
Registered!!
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sorry guys, i'm gonna have to back out of this, which blows, i'm gonna be getting laid off for a while, and i'm in the middle of building a new home, so i'm really strapped for cash...sorry about this, i neeed brakes too...
Hey
Question: What is the estimated ETA on this cause I took my car in to Honda today and they said my rotors and pads are gone. I was surprised since I havent noticed any noise or braking problems (could be a revenue thing) but anyway the sooner this goes down the better.
Thanks
Question: What is the estimated ETA on this cause I took my car in to Honda today and they said my rotors and pads are gone. I was surprised since I havent noticed any noise or braking problems (could be a revenue thing) but anyway the sooner this goes down the better.
Thanks
Hey guys,
Everyones deposit/payment is in and orders have been confirmed, we are good to go. My apologies for my absence, today at 7:00pm is my last exam and after that I am done the semester. Once I get that out of the way I will order up everything ASAP and will post an update and give you all an ETA. Thank you all for your patience, and its nice to see this actually going through. If you have any questions at all dont hesitate to contact me. You can PM me here or email me, and if you want my cell number just send me a PM and i'll give it to you.
An approximate ETA is usually 6-7 business days, but i'll get you more accurate info once I order.
As for jer2k, drive slowly and break early with less pedal effort. Just incase honda isnt lying to you... most likely their opinion of 'you have nothing left' is slightly skewed, however to be on the safe side give them the benefit of the doubt and drive nice and slow. I'll try my best to get this going as fast as possible.
Everyones deposit/payment is in and orders have been confirmed, we are good to go. My apologies for my absence, today at 7:00pm is my last exam and after that I am done the semester. Once I get that out of the way I will order up everything ASAP and will post an update and give you all an ETA. Thank you all for your patience, and its nice to see this actually going through. If you have any questions at all dont hesitate to contact me. You can PM me here or email me, and if you want my cell number just send me a PM and i'll give it to you.
An approximate ETA is usually 6-7 business days, but i'll get you more accurate info once I order.
As for jer2k, drive slowly and break early with less pedal effort. Just incase honda isnt lying to you... most likely their opinion of 'you have nothing left' is slightly skewed, however to be on the safe side give them the benefit of the doubt and drive nice and slow. I'll try my best to get this going as fast as possible.
noob question...whats honda suggested milage to change the pads and rotors??? im at 108 clicks rightnow but my braking seems fine and i don't hear any wierd noise or squeeking yet.. im sorta interested of getting these pads and the rotors... is it just the fronts that needs the pads or both front and rear(drums)???? and when is the last day for this group buy?
Hey, yep you can still get in on this. We're ordering them up tomorrow.
Cars are supposed to get an annual brake service done, and that is just usually an inspection.. sometimes a resurface of the rotor... sometimes a pad replacement. If you have 108,000 kms you will need rotors and pads in the near future providing you are the original owner.
If you are not the original owner, then its hard to tell without an inspection, because the previous owner could have already changed some of that stuff.
Cars are supposed to get an annual brake service done, and that is just usually an inspection.. sometimes a resurface of the rotor... sometimes a pad replacement. If you have 108,000 kms you will need rotors and pads in the near future providing you are the original owner.
If you are not the original owner, then its hard to tell without an inspection, because the previous owner could have already changed some of that stuff.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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I'm actually at 108K almost exactly and I have plenty left - it depends where you mostly drove those 108K, I'm mostly a highway driver, which explains my abundnace of braketasticness.
Well i am primarily a highway driver as well...I still think they must be stiffing something at Honda cause you'd think I'd be able to tell that the brakes are "gone". They are supposed to make noise when the pads get low right? Plus the pedal still feels good.



