17" Rims on stock 2005 SE Coupe
17" Rims on stock 2005 SE Coupe
As most of you guys know - I am looking at switching out the plain jane 14" hubs with 15 16 or 17 on my coupe SE (2005).
If I go 16 or 17" - will I have to drop the car? I am thinking of plus sizing up to 17" since it still looks like there is alot of rubber on the 15". I do not want to have to do any mods to the speedo, etc... want to keep the wheel circumference the same.
Will it look stupid with 17's?
Anyone have any pics?
If I go 16 or 17" - will I have to drop the car? I am thinking of plus sizing up to 17" since it still looks like there is alot of rubber on the 15". I do not want to have to do any mods to the speedo, etc... want to keep the wheel circumference the same.
Will it look stupid with 17's?
Anyone have any pics?
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yes, low profile tires without dropping your car looks terribly IMO, makes the car look like its standing on tippy-toes. doesnt help that the civics have such a huge wheel gap. but this is a personal thing...i cant stand wheel gap.....some of us can....
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When you increase the size of the rim... you decrease the sidewall of the tire. The overall diameter of the tire/rim stays the same whether you get 15" rims or 17" rims.
195/55R15 is the same diameter as 205/45R17
The reason your wheel gap seems larger when you get bigger rims is because the low profile tire... the actually wheel well gap doesn't get any larger.
BTW: I'm selling my rims if you want them.
195/55R15 is the same diameter as 205/45R17
The reason your wheel gap seems larger when you get bigger rims is because the low profile tire... the actually wheel well gap doesn't get any larger.
BTW: I'm selling my rims if you want them.
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tire width will depend on the size of the rim, as R1 eluded to. if you're going with 15 probably 195....16's 195-205......
i dunno if you were asking about availability?
seriously think you need to drop the car if you're gonna add rims though...looks whacked
i dunno if you were asking about availability?
seriously think you need to drop the car if you're gonna add rims though...looks whacked
A couple things to keep in mind, since you're newb. Everyone around here likes to throw a single liner your way..........
- fuel economy. With bigger wheels, come more weight. Even if you pick up some super light 17s, which would be super expensive, the weight of the overall rim + tire would almost certainly still be heavier than your 14s... Heavier means slower acceleration, and also worse fuel economy.
- Going up in rim size also means you'll usually get a fatter tire. By fatter, I mean tread width. More contact patch means better grip, which also means lower fuel economy. I've heard of people with lead foot on stock tires get 350km per tank. People with not so bad a lead foot on 17s probably get 400km I suppose. I get 500-550km per tank on my auto.
- 17" rubber is expensive.
- Depending on the tread width, your over all tire may look round and "bubbly" at the edges, or square like hell. I could never really figure this one out.
- Lowering your brand spanking new 2005 Civic, depending on how low, will definitely void your warranty. Why do you care? Because when you lower, you put more pressure onto your shocks, and you could possibly bottom out alot easier (hit the bottom of the shock over bumps)... 7th gens are notorious for having crappy shocks. I had my front driver side replaced after 24k, under warranty.
- Lowering your car, depending on how low, will also mean you'll get some camber (google that one)... Bad camber means bad tread wear, which means $$$ to get new tires. Or, get a camber kit, which is more $$$. Most of the guys here only recommend the rears, but if you have money, get front and back.
- Once again, depending on how far you lower, you'll have problems in the winter (snow plow), and possibly doing full turns (tire rubbing).
In general, yes, you must almost definitely drop the car. It looks so "NEWB" or "CHEAPASS" to have a floating car.
And that's your Midas, tip of the day. That's all folks!
- fuel economy. With bigger wheels, come more weight. Even if you pick up some super light 17s, which would be super expensive, the weight of the overall rim + tire would almost certainly still be heavier than your 14s... Heavier means slower acceleration, and also worse fuel economy.
- Going up in rim size also means you'll usually get a fatter tire. By fatter, I mean tread width. More contact patch means better grip, which also means lower fuel economy. I've heard of people with lead foot on stock tires get 350km per tank. People with not so bad a lead foot on 17s probably get 400km I suppose. I get 500-550km per tank on my auto.
- 17" rubber is expensive.
- Depending on the tread width, your over all tire may look round and "bubbly" at the edges, or square like hell. I could never really figure this one out.
- Lowering your brand spanking new 2005 Civic, depending on how low, will definitely void your warranty. Why do you care? Because when you lower, you put more pressure onto your shocks, and you could possibly bottom out alot easier (hit the bottom of the shock over bumps)... 7th gens are notorious for having crappy shocks. I had my front driver side replaced after 24k, under warranty.
- Lowering your car, depending on how low, will also mean you'll get some camber (google that one)... Bad camber means bad tread wear, which means $$$ to get new tires. Or, get a camber kit, which is more $$$. Most of the guys here only recommend the rears, but if you have money, get front and back.
- Once again, depending on how far you lower, you'll have problems in the winter (snow plow), and possibly doing full turns (tire rubbing).
In general, yes, you must almost definitely drop the car. It looks so "NEWB" or "CHEAPASS" to have a floating car.
And that's your Midas, tip of the day. That's all folks!
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- fuel economy. With bigger wheels, come more weight. Even if you pick up some super light 17s, which would be super expensive, the weight of the overall rim + tire would almost certainly still be heavier than your 14s... Heavier means slower acceleration, and also worse fuel economy.
- Going up in rim size also means you'll usually get a fatter tire. By fatter, I mean tread width. More contact patch means better grip, which also means lower fuel economy. I've heard of people with lead foot on stock tires get 350km per tank. People with not so bad a lead foot on 17s probably get 400km I suppose. I get 500-550km per tank on my auto.
- 17" rubber is expensive.
- Depending on the tread width, your over all tire may look round and "bubbly" at the edges, or square like hell. I could never really figure this one out.
- Lowering your brand spanking new 2005 Civic, depending on how low, will definitely void your warranty. Why do you care? Because when you lower, you put more pressure onto your shocks, and you could possibly bottom out alot easier (hit the bottom of the shock over bumps)... 7th gens are notorious for having crappy shocks. I had my front driver side replaced after 24k, under warranty.
- Lowering your car, depending on how low, will also mean you'll get some camber (google that one)... Bad camber means bad tread wear, which means $$$ to get new tires. Or, get a camber kit, which is more $$$. Most of the guys here only recommend the rears, but if you have money, get front and back.
- Once again, depending on how far you lower, you'll have problems in the winter (snow plow), and possibly doing full turns (tire rubbing).
In general, yes, you must almost definitely drop the car. It looks so "NEWB" or "CHEAPASS" to have a floating car.
And that's your Midas, tip of the day. That's all folks!
And that's your Midas, tip of the day. That's all folks!
drop your car will definitely look and perform (turning corner) much better than STOCK. Just imagine your car with exhaust, Altezza lights, HID and carbon fiber hood, but it's not lowered, it will look stupid\rice IMO
I agree with the advice above. Especailly the stuff about the true costs of lowering your car (camber wear, tires, shocks, danger)
As far as rims without lowering...I sported this look for a while before I got my drop. The non-tuner crowd basically doesn't notice and says "nice rims" or "nice car" etc.
The tuners will yell things like "drop it" or " it needs a drop" etc.
Anyway I do have some old pictures of my car with rims and no drop.
Number 1
Number 2
Number 3
I personally think its much better dropped.
JD
As far as rims without lowering...I sported this look for a while before I got my drop. The non-tuner crowd basically doesn't notice and says "nice rims" or "nice car" etc.
The tuners will yell things like "drop it" or " it needs a drop" etc.
Anyway I do have some old pictures of my car with rims and no drop.
Number 1
Number 2
Number 3
I personally think its much better dropped.
JD
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Originally Posted by TeLLy
You're not a tuner till you have to drive diagonally over speedbumps, LOL.
To true .. its fun to watch those people - whereas I'm still 4x4ing it, will for a good while still
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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Ahhh Telly, now you went and got me all paranoid about my struts, this will be my first winter with my car lowered, and yes I've had my struts replaced under warranty once (before I lowered my car) I do plan on getting coilovers, but the longer I can put that 2G + investment off the better! I just try to drive "conservatively" and avoid all the huge bumps and SUPER hard cornering...
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