Downshifting at red lights...
08-12-2002
#31
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[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Might as well take a yellow school bus then.
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Might as well take a yellow school bus then.
[hr]
08-13-2002
#32
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08-13-2002
#33
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[hr]Originally posted by: Crash2002
V6 camaro's are slow as heck
edit: they should have only made them with v8's[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Crash2002
V6 camaro's are slow as heck
edit: they should have only made them with v8's[hr]
08-13-2002
#34
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[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Edit: Also the important thing about downshifting is that you are ALWAYS in gear when slowing down. What if you are coasting neutral and then a deer runs out in front of you and you need to accelerate and move out of the way? You'll need to clutch-gear-release clutch and then accelerate and this takes MORE time than if you were already in gear and just gas it.
Think about that one.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Edit: Also the important thing about downshifting is that you are ALWAYS in gear when slowing down. What if you are coasting neutral and then a deer runs out in front of you and you need to accelerate and move out of the way? You'll need to clutch-gear-release clutch and then accelerate and this takes MORE time than if you were already in gear and just gas it.
Think about that one.[hr]
08-13-2002
#35
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Rep Power: 0 Ya and that quarter of a second can mean life or death. You're telling me it's faster to
1. Process which gear is appropriate for your speed
2. Depress clutch
3. Change into gear
4. Release clutch
5. Accelerate
THAN to just
1. Acclerate.
??
Well when a deer darts out in front of your car.. we'll see.
Edit:
FYI.
Another mistake people make while driving is to "knock it out of gear" and let the car coast, then shifting it back into gear while still moving. The problem with this is that while the car is coasting, the input portion of the transmission either stops entirely (if the clutch is depressed) or slows to idle speed (if the clutch is not depressed). When the driver attempts to shift back into gear, the syncromesh takes a beating while trying to spin the input portion of the transmission from a dead stop or near stop up to the speed the car is currently traveling down the road. This is an excellent way to quickly wear out the syncromesh in your transmission, which is not a cheap thing to repair.
1. Process which gear is appropriate for your speed
2. Depress clutch
3. Change into gear
4. Release clutch
5. Accelerate
THAN to just
1. Acclerate.
??
Well when a deer darts out in front of your car.. we'll see.
Edit:
FYI.
Another mistake people make while driving is to "knock it out of gear" and let the car coast, then shifting it back into gear while still moving. The problem with this is that while the car is coasting, the input portion of the transmission either stops entirely (if the clutch is depressed) or slows to idle speed (if the clutch is not depressed). When the driver attempts to shift back into gear, the syncromesh takes a beating while trying to spin the input portion of the transmission from a dead stop or near stop up to the speed the car is currently traveling down the road. This is an excellent way to quickly wear out the syncromesh in your transmission, which is not a cheap thing to repair.
08-13-2002
#36
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Rep Power: 0 There must be a lot of deer in your area. call me lazy, but i'll coast in neutral. brakes don't wear out nearly as often as you must think. and brakes are cheaper to replace, and don't use engine braking, which is bad for your car. whutever. my friend has a mid 90's civic and he coasted in neutral the whole time he drove it. 174,000 miles. never replaced anything except for brake pads once or twice.
yeah...
yeah...
08-13-2002
#37
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Rep Power: 0 If you revmatch properly and downshift the wear and tear (virutally none) is the same as when you are upshifting.
But i guess this is what seperates the good and bad drivers. On the average only 5% of stick drivers revmatch.
But i guess this is what seperates the good and bad drivers. On the average only 5% of stick drivers revmatch.
08-13-2002
#38
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Rep Power: 0 Downshifting always seems better. My clutch showed no signs of major wear and i have had my front breaks worked on already. I guess not enough downshifting, or maybe too hard on the brakes. Anyway, if driving a honda or nissan and as long as you don't ride the clutch, it will last a long time. And you'll still probably fix/replace the brakes before the clutch. Just for info purposes, this was in a 4cyl nissan frontier.
08-14-2002
#39
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Rep Power: 0 Alright WTF a V6, most likely 3.4L (160hp, 3300lb y0!) Camaro owner coming here and talking crap about the power of our cars. Not putting enough power to clutch and the like. Alright, I'm a former Cam owner here, 96 Vortec S/C Z28 running 14# boost on stock internals with CC306 cam and all that good stuff. Before you up and insult our performance, you to know that 3.4L Cams run a best of 16.9 stock right? And even if you have a 3.8 sure you may be faster (15.8 stock y0 w/ 200hp), but your car is also hella unreliable and I know this becasue my Z28 was in the shop every two weeks stock and non-stock the whole time that I owned the thing. Of course your clutch wears, the T-5 transmssion in your car wasnt used in the 3rd gen Camaros on anything more than a 305/185hp engine. Why? Too much power and torque that can't be handled by that transmission. The T-5 in Chevys is always a bomb waiting to explode and you are lucky it's just the clutch so far. So.. before you come here talkin crap with your 15.8-16.9 domestic iron machine, know your facts, and if you need to learn all about Honda power, come race me, I'll be happy to help u out.
08-14-2002
#40
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Rep Power: 0 Oh, downshifting and rev-matching won't hurt anythig. You will get used to it and do it fast enough eventually and wil save wear on the brakes.
08-14-2002
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[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Oh, downshifting and rev-matching won't hurt anythig. You will get used to it and do it fast enough eventually and wil save wear on the brakes.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Oh, downshifting and rev-matching won't hurt anythig. You will get used to it and do it fast enough eventually and wil save wear on the brakes.[hr]
08-14-2002
#42
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[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Cheers, [IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG] my point exactly.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: n00dleboy
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Oh, downshifting and rev-matching won't hurt anythig. You will get used to it and do it fast enough eventually and wil save wear on the brakes.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Oh, downshifting and rev-matching won't hurt anythig. You will get used to it and do it fast enough eventually and wil save wear on the brakes.[hr]
I can always tell in rush hour when someone is driving stick...they barely use the brakes. I try not to use them at all, except for tapping them to let the guy behind me know that I'm slowing down.
It's obvious that StockV6Cam is a complete amateur driver, so disregard any of his advice.
08-14-2002
#43
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[hr]Originally posted by: StockV6Cam
EEEEEEEEXactly. Obviously it's different between our cars. In my car, whenever I engage the clutch it wears on the clutch teeth. Not to the point of breaking them, but wear none-the-less. I think the FWD hydrolic clutches engage for you and give you less wear, not quite sure.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: StockV6Cam
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: noypirider
however, i only do engine breaks if i know my break will not be able to stop the car as fast as i would like to.
just my 2 cents...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: noypirider
however, i only do engine breaks if i know my break will not be able to stop the car as fast as i would like to.
just my 2 cents...[hr]
[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
08-14-2002
#44
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[hr]Originally posted by: civic510
Yeah, I'd wear out my brake pads first rather than the clutch. Think about it this way. Would you rather replace your brake pads or your clutch?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: civic510
Yeah, I'd wear out my brake pads first rather than the clutch. Think about it this way. Would you rather replace your brake pads or your clutch?[hr]
08-14-2002
#45
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[hr]Originally posted by: NickDaMans02Civic
, even when I drive a auto I downshift because I get so bored and it saves the brakes life.
Nick[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: NickDaMans02Civic
, even when I drive a auto I downshift because I get so bored and it saves the brakes life.
Nick[hr]
NO, what are you doing?? Don't downshift to stop the car in a automatic. In laymans terms, you are messing with the ECU when you are downshifting with an automatic. The ECU knows at what point to have the gear shift going up or down. Shifting in an automatic isn't that good as it is. The longer you continue to downshift in a automatic car (physically changing the gears form D to 3 or D to 2nd however it is setup. You will start to experience a lag in gear changing. Your first symptons will probably be in reverse, it will take an extra few seconds to get into reverse.
08-14-2002
#46
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[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Alright WTF a V6, most likely 3.4L (160hp, 3300lb y0!) Camaro owner coming here and talking crap about the power of our cars. Not putting enough power to clutch and the like. Alright, I'm a former Cam owner here, 96 Vortec S/C Z28 running 14# boost on stock internals with CC306 cam and all that good stuff. Before you up and insult our performance, you to know that 3.4L Cams run a best of 16.9 stock right? And even if you have a 3.8 sure you may be faster (15.8 stock y0 w/ 200hp), but your car is also hella unreliable and I know this becasue my Z28 was in the shop every two weeks stock and non-stock the whole time that I owned the thing. Of course your clutch wears, the T-5 transmssion in your car wasnt used in the 3rd gen Camaros on anything more than a 305/185hp engine. Why? Too much power and torque that can't be handled by that transmission. The T-5 in Chevys is always a bomb waiting to explode and you are lucky it's just the clutch so far. So.. before you come here talkin crap with your 15.8-16.9 domestic iron machine, know your facts, and if you need to learn all about Honda power, come race me, I'll be happy to help u out.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: SOHCVTEC
Alright WTF a V6, most likely 3.4L (160hp, 3300lb y0!) Camaro owner coming here and talking crap about the power of our cars. Not putting enough power to clutch and the like. Alright, I'm a former Cam owner here, 96 Vortec S/C Z28 running 14# boost on stock internals with CC306 cam and all that good stuff. Before you up and insult our performance, you to know that 3.4L Cams run a best of 16.9 stock right? And even if you have a 3.8 sure you may be faster (15.8 stock y0 w/ 200hp), but your car is also hella unreliable and I know this becasue my Z28 was in the shop every two weeks stock and non-stock the whole time that I owned the thing. Of course your clutch wears, the T-5 transmssion in your car wasnt used in the 3rd gen Camaros on anything more than a 305/185hp engine. Why? Too much power and torque that can't be handled by that transmission. The T-5 in Chevys is always a bomb waiting to explode and you are lucky it's just the clutch so far. So.. before you come here talkin crap with your 15.8-16.9 domestic iron machine, know your facts, and if you need to learn all about Honda power, come race me, I'll be happy to help u out.[hr]
08-15-2002
#47
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Rep Power: 0 Well, my login doesn't seem to be working so I made another one. Alright now, I shouldn't have said stock internals for my Camaro, stock BOTTOM END more like it i suppose. And I didnt' say it worked well did I? One of the reasons I don't have the Camaro anymore is because blew the motor, had it rebuilt for about two months with a good bottom end, then the FIRST day I took the car back out, It got rear-ended at a stop light by some dumb drunk. Guess that car just wasn't meant to be. By the way the blower was a Vortech V-1T. Now, here's some proof that modded N/A 3.4Ls run high 15's - low 16's: V6 F-body Owner Timeslips The FASTEST 3.4L N/A runs a 15.6. Now what do I run? 15.7 ish. You are NOT the fastest 3.4L Fbody I can guarantee you that because i know Tim. The 3.8 timesleips also prove my point.
0wn3d
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08-20-2002
#48
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[hr]When downshifting, as you push the clutch in, give the gas pedal a little blip (quick press) - just enough to bump the RPM up to what it will be when you shift down to the next gear. As you do this, shift smoothly, then quickly release the clutch.[hr]
[hr]When downshifting, as you push the clutch in, give the gas pedal a little blip (quick press) - just enough to bump the RPM up to what it will be when you shift down to the next gear. As you do this, shift smoothly, then quickly release the clutch.[hr]
For example, does it matter if you
a) Push clutch in, give some gas, shift down, release clutch
or
b) Push clutch in, shift down, give some gas, release clutch
Also, the quote above says to quickly release clutch? Does that make sense or am i just reading it wrong?
08-20-2002
#49
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Rep Power: 0 This is crazy. I've downshifted in every manual car I've had. My previous car was an acura integra with almost 200k miles on it. I downshift as I always do, press down the clutch and downshift, and gradually let go of the clutch when the RPM matches the speed I am in. For those that say that wears out the clutch, BS! 200k on an original clutch and it still had the original clutch when I sold it.
Even the manual in Honda's instruction book will tell you it's ok to downshift. I don't believe Honda would tell you do destroy your own engine. Even if they did, people would eventually catch on and not buy Hondas.
It is indeed safer to downshift than to coast in neutral. I'd rather pay the price of a clutch in that case than to pay with my life. If my life isn't worth the price of a clutch, I am going to go kill myself now. Have a nice day!
Even the manual in Honda's instruction book will tell you it's ok to downshift. I don't believe Honda would tell you do destroy your own engine. Even if they did, people would eventually catch on and not buy Hondas.
It is indeed safer to downshift than to coast in neutral. I'd rather pay the price of a clutch in that case than to pay with my life. If my life isn't worth the price of a clutch, I am going to go kill myself now. Have a nice day!
08-20-2002
#51
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[hr]Originally posted by: civicman10
Does it matter which order you do this in?
For example, does it matter if you
a) Push clutch in, give some gas, shift down, release clutch
or
b) Push clutch in, shift down, give some gas, release clutch
Also, the quote above says to quickly release clutch? Does that make sense or am i just reading it wrong?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: civicman10
Quote
[hr]When downshifting, as you push the clutch in, give the gas pedal a little blip (quick press) - just enough to bump the RPM up to what it will be when you shift down to the next gear. As you do this, shift smoothly, then quickly release the clutch.[hr]
[hr]When downshifting, as you push the clutch in, give the gas pedal a little blip (quick press) - just enough to bump the RPM up to what it will be when you shift down to the next gear. As you do this, shift smoothly, then quickly release the clutch.[hr]
For example, does it matter if you
a) Push clutch in, give some gas, shift down, release clutch
or
b) Push clutch in, shift down, give some gas, release clutch
Also, the quote above says to quickly release clutch? Does that make sense or am i just reading it wrong?[hr]
08-20-2002
#52
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Rep Power: 0 The dude with a camaro, get a REAL corvette. I'm not listening to some dude with an American car tell me how to shift. American cars are different cause they suck, they are poorly made. That's why the clutches don't last. My dad's corvette is on his 2nd clutch, only has 33k miles on the car. Come back when you have some knowledge.
08-21-2002
#53
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Rep Power: 0 I had a 96, 5-speed V6 Camaro, until I totaled it. I never had to replace the clutch all the way up to 110k miles. Oh yeah, I have always downshifted when stopping in every car I have ever owned. I like my Honda way better than I liked that heavy POS Camaro. The doors of that damn car probably weigh more than I do.
200 HP was kinda nice in my Camaro(would have been nicer in a lighter car), but I am hoping someday to have at least that much in my Civic.
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200 HP was kinda nice in my Camaro(would have been nicer in a lighter car), but I am hoping someday to have at least that much in my Civic.
[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG]GM
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08-21-2002
#54
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[hr]200 HP was kinda nice in my Camaro(would have been nicer in a lighter car), but I am hoping someday to have at least that much in my Civic.[hr]
[hr]200 HP was kinda nice in my Camaro(would have been nicer in a lighter car), but I am hoping someday to have at least that much in my Civic.[hr]
I've been working on this, now I have another question. I drop the gear, and give it some gas... now do I give it enough gas just to keep it from idling and let the clutch pull the revs up (feel the drag on the clutch), or do you rev it high enough that when you pull the clutch back out, the revs drop to where they need to be. Pulling the revs up slows the car down alot faster, and I'm doing it evenly, I just feel drag, I don't get thrown forward, but I'm sure that's not good.
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