When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My sister brought her car to a local mechanic and this is the estimate:
I doubt if the service manual calls for BG conditioning product so I plan to use Nissan (OEM) CVT-2 fluid and do a drain and fill. I did fore-warn her that since it's been a long time since the fluid was replaced it "may" cause shifting issues..so it's at her own risk. For the coolant change I intend to go with the Ezone method: drain coolant from stop-**** (lol), refill and repeat a few times. Any tips or suggestions for any of theabove items?
My sister brought her car to a local mechanic and this is the estimate:
Your sister needs some education.
I'm surprised they didn't throw on a brake fluid flush and a fuel injection service and decarbon service and throttle body cleaning and adjust rear brake shoes. And blinker fluid flush.
I plan to use Nissan (OEM) CVT-2 fluid and do a drain and fill. I did fore-warn her that since it's been a long time since the fluid was replaced it "may" cause shifting issues..so it's at her own risk.
CVT trans doesn't shift anyway LOL
That said, it's a Nissan and they already have plenty of trans problems without extra help from wrong fluids.
Fix the axle first as you may lose fluid while it's out of the trans
stop-**** (lol),
Petcock. Or use the family friendly term 'pet chicken'
refill and repeat a few times.
Once might be enough? Find the correct fluid though.
PS fluid.....make sure it's not electric steering lol (IDK what it has) Use correct fluid. Drain or extract somehow and fill.
Your sister needs some education.I'm surprised they didn't throw on a brake fluid flush and a fuel injection service and decarbon service and throttle body cleaning and adjust rear brake shoes. And blinker fluid flush.
Are you saying some mechanics take advantage of women, old people and young kids who don't know any better?..lol.
Blinker flush..
Originally Posted by ezone
CVT trans doesn't shift anyway LOL
Isn't slow and slower two gears?
Originally Posted by ezone
That said, it's a Nissan and they already have plenty of trans problems without extra help from wrong fluids
.
I purchased a 2017 Sentra w/CVT for my daughter in late 2016. It has three transmission modes: economy, normal and sport mode...just rpm based that feels like it shifts.In the price range I wanted to stay in it came down to the Sentra or a Kia Soul (tried and didn't like American made models). The Sentra seems to be an unexciting but good overall city/highway car. I hope the transmission holds up.
Originally Posted by ezone
Fix the axle first as you may lose fluid while it's out of the trans
That's what I was thinking as well..
[QUOTE=ezone;4750616PS fluid.....make sure it's not electric steering lol (IDK what it has) Use correct fluid. Drain or extract somehow and fill.[/QUOTE]
Yes, but it's still a dual pulley CVT. They programmed it to mimic "shifts" like a regular automatic trans to make it more acceptable to the buying public, it's what we expect from an auto trans.
Honda does it too. Now.
Honda didn't do it so much on earlier CVT transmissions and it generated 'rubber band' complaints lol
Initial mechanic (pic of estimate) lied about CV boot damage. Her car is currently at the mechanic who changed my car's axle a few days ago and he doesn't see any issues with the boot. So, I asked him his price for CVT fluid and coolant change labor and he doesn't recommend replacing CVT due to mileage (132k) and no history of previous servicing. Labor for coolant change is $40 and he does it the ez-method. Sister said HVAC is intermittent and he going to put gauges on it, rinse off condensor.
Ezone, if you respond I have a feeling you will most likely recommend new CVT fluid regardless of miles. Assuming a CVT doesn't have valve bodies the possibility of stirring sediments during fluid change shouldn't be an issue, correct?
Last edited by Wankenstein; 09-07-2018 at 09:03 AM.
Just an update...mechanic said freon is low. He tightened shradee valve and said it's most likely a small leakr through the shrader valve or compressor seal Air is or seems to be colder at Max than it was previously.
I am using a hand pump and tubing to remove CVT fluid..decided to change fluid.
and he doesn't recommend replacing CVT due to mileage (132k) and no history of previous servicing
BUllshi[p]. Change fluid. Drain and fill just like ours. That one even has a freekin handy dipstick!
If it grenades, it was gonna grenade anyway. Fluid change cannot cause it.
Any service with the correct fluid is far better than no service or service with incorrect fluid. .
According to alldata, it takes NISSAN CVT fluid NS-2 ("green fluid")
IDK how much fluid a D&F takes though.
BUllshi[p]. Change fluid. Drain and fill just like ours. That one even has a freekin handy dipstick!
If it grenades, it was gonna grenade anyway. Fluid change cannot cause it.
Any service with the correct fluid is far better than no service or service with incorrect fluid. .According to alldata, it takes NISSAN CVT fluid NS-2 ("green fluid")IDK how much fluid a D&F takes though.
Just (hand) pumped out 3.5 qts and replaced with new NS-2. Going to drive around awhile and shift through all the faux manual shift mode..triptonic lol. Return and do another drain (pump out with engine off) and fill. Purchased a plastic painters bucket with metric and standard measurements on the side of the bucket. The Pennzoil hand-pump with quick connect for tubing is nice as well $10 at home deepblow
Last edited by Wankenstein; 09-07-2018 at 02:19 PM.
Is there a way to test compressor seal for leakage?
Depends ®
Got a sniffer (electronic leak detector)?
Look for moist (oil residue and dirt) stains on the AC system. Got stains around the clutch? Stains around any other AC fittings that use O ring seals? (that's all of the fittings in the system)
Is there a real leak that is a recent development and is significant, or did it take 8 years to slowly seep enough refrigerant out to be noticeable....how long before it leaks enough out to be noticeable again?
Did the mechanic put UV dye in when he recharged the system?
I've been known to zip a compressor clutch hub off for a visual confirmation of a leaking shaft seal, but that's not always easy.
Got a sniffer (electronic leak detector)?
Look for moist (oil residue and dirt) stains on the AC system. Got stains around the clutch? Stains around any other AC fittings that use O ring seals? (that's all of the fittings in the system)
Is there a real leak that is a recent development and is significant, or did it take 8 years to slowly seep enough refrigerant out to be noticeable....how long before it leaks enough out to be noticeable again?
Did the mechanic put UV dye in when he recharged the system?
I've been known to zip a compressor clutch hub off for a visual confirmation of a leaking shaft seal, but that's not always easy.
He did not use a dye. My sister's description is HVAC has been randomly not blowing cold for the past six months. After the work was performed I told her it could remain a slow leak for an underminate length or get worse at anytime. I don't have a sniffer and the mechanic didn't mention using one. I'll look for stains tomorrow when I finish up the 2nd CVT fluid d&f.
Before I removed the old CVT fluid I checked the dipstick and with engine off (after driving it for twenty minutes prior to) and the fluid was an inch over the hot full mark. I should have checked with the engine running (per service manual) but I don't think it would have made much difference (doesn't on a 6th gen Honda as I tried it both ways). Anyway, since my sister couldn't find any records the assumption was it has never been changed but I doubt if the factory would have over-filled it so, maybe it was replaced at some point?
As I stated previously I measured the fluid I removed and replaced the exact amount on both drain and fills. After both drain and fills I should have measured it on the dipstick before I took for a test drive but I didn't. It shifted fine during the twenty minute test drive and after I returned I then thought it a good idea to check the dipstick (engine running) and sure enough it was about an inch over the hot full mark. So, I suctioned about 8-10 ounces out to get it to the hot full mark. Now, a bit paranoid and waiting for tomorrow to check it when cold and see if it lands at on or near the cold full mark before handing it back to my sister. I've read that with CVT's it's critical to get the fluid level absolutely correct as compared to traditional automatics where there's a bit of leeway.
I think that's why initially when I checked the old fluid I wasn't real concerned it was past the hot full mark.
Before I removed the old CVT fluid I checked the dipstick and with engine off (after driving it for twenty minutes prior to) and the fluid was an inch over the hot full mark. I should have checked with the engine running (per service manual) but I don't think it would have made much difference
Damn, dude.
You should know as well as anyone else here to follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter.
You HAVE to follow instructions or else the level will be (read) wrong.
Hondas NEW version CVTs start slowly draining the torque converter as soon as the engine is shut off too.
In the last 2 weeks I've had to deal with both Nissan and Hyundai CVT trans, they both seem to slowly drain the converter after shutoff, causing fluid level to slowly rise.
(doesn't on a 6th gen Honda as I tried it both ways).
Your own cars might not care but it's still not the same.
Honda is the only manufacturer I know who wants the auto trans fluid checked with the engine OFF.
Completely different from every other manufacturer I've dealt with.
I see so many come in from other shops that are overfilled, for whatever reasons. Go figure. Every other make wants fluid checked with the engine running, so.....all cars have 4 wheels....
Anyway, since my sister couldn't find any records the assumption was it has never been changed but I doubt if the factory would have over-filled it so, maybe it was replaced at some point?
You didn't check it correctly, either. Is it really overfilled?
I doubt the factory overfilled it.
I've read that with CVT's it's critical to get the fluid level absolutely correct[/QUOTE]Yup, that means checking it using the correct method. That's pretty freekin critical.
Damn, dude. You should know as well as anyone else here to follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter.
You HAVE to follow instructions or else the level will be (read) wrong.
Yes, I f'd up but regardless reading was the same with engine off (checked immediatly after shutting engine off) and engine on: both readings an inch above hot-full. I replaced exactly what I removed (and checked level after 20 minutes drive while engine idling) so, the transmission must have been over-filled for a long time before I replaced it.
Originally Posted by ezone
Hondas NEW version CVTs start slowly draining the torque converter as soon as the engine is shut off too.
In the last 2 weeks I've had to deal with both Nissan and Hyundai CVT trans, they both seem to slowly drain the converter after shutoff, causing fluid level to slowly rise.
Good to know. Thanks.
Originally Posted by ezone
You didn't check it correctly, either. Is it really overfilled?
I doubt the factory overfilled it.
I did check it correctly (at idle) after second drain and fill: one inch over full-hot mark (same as immediately checking with engine off).
Originally Posted by ezone
I doubt the factory overfilled it.
And that's why I think it was replaced once prior and whoever did it may have over-filled it.
Originally Posted by ezone
Yup, that means checking it using the correct method. That's pretty freek critical.
I know I feel like an idiot but it shifted fine during test drives so seems nothing is damaged. When I cold check it tomorrow if it lands in the correct range I will do another test drive and check the hot level and if it's in the correct range i will call it good. I told my sister I hate working on other people's cars due to liability though I'd feel like a dick if I didn't save her some money.
I told my sister I hate working on other people's cars due to liability
Sometimes I (or someone else) have to make decisions I'm not happy with because of liability issues, but decisions like that are to protect both the shop and myself.
It's also yet another reason I refuse to do sidework for most people.
It's also yet another reason I refuse to do sidework for most people.
It's really not worth the risk or sometimes frustration.
My sister said she's been going to the shop she got the estimate from for a long time however, on that day there was a new manager who came from an up-sell place. My sister talked to the owner and expressed that she doesn't appreciate being lied to and possibly taken advantage of and the owner said he has been getting complaints from customers about that manager for the same thing.
I looked at the CV boots yesterday and they are very good shape. I told her I can help her look around for another mechanic if she feels the need.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 09-09-2018 at 06:37 AM.
Well, I haven't gotten any smarter over night...there is no "cold" check for this transmission as I thought there was .There's only a hot (CVT at operating temp) hi and low mark. I did check the level after car sat overnight and the level was way past the high mark. So, being that I ended yesterday with the level right at the high mark and checking it at idle (after driving twenty minutes) I had my sister drive with me today and it was again at the high mark at idle. I extracted a 1/4:cup and level now is exactly between low and high notch at idle. I showed my sister the level on the dipstick as proof.
At dead cold today checked the radiator and it is full. The reservoir is midway between min and max. Job is done. She said she understands how I feel about liability.
09-01-2018
