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Modding a Civic!?!?!?

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Old Feb 14, 2005
  #91  
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Originally Posted by deciuss
im talking about whp and for that dyno there is no base dyno that was done so you dont know how much was actualy gained.
well assuming he doesn't have a factory freak (which we have yet to see a dyno of any d17 being one) the average D17 seems to dyno about 106-110whp.

i might be on hwy 100 wednesday night. i was down there earlier tonight, and had a run in with a hondata rsx i'll be posting about shortly.
Old Feb 14, 2005
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how did it go? drool you should take on some of the brewcity guys and shut some of the slower ones up on that imports suck
Old Feb 14, 2005
  #93  
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brewcity guys? what kinda cars are we talking about?
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #94  
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my car gets up way faster, your wrong about past 60 part. I get to 100 easily. 3rd gear pulls the hardest.
Originally Posted by deciuss
the ex cant go eather... both are slow past 60 on the freeway. heck its still a dead zone for when i turboed my car.

unless your talking about getting up to speed on the on ramp. maybe my cars broken but when i try to floor it with even the turbo on after i have reached 65 its hard to get more speed outa the sucker. althow i have an auto and it sounds like you have a M/t so im not sure.

i know the auto has one less gear (i belive) 4 vs 5

any ways i would love to see some slips posted of just bolt ons once the summer hits. would be interesting to see the time off the track not just how much hp since some of the mods like the intake will add power low end take some from the top? ect ect.

sorry i dont want it to seem like im just knocking you im interested to see what they are able to do at the track.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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best thing to do is when your done all your bolt ons get it dynoed and shut everyone up. everyone talks without dyno proof. i'm talking about both sides here. if an intake only gave a 1hp gain then post the dyno so we stay as far as possible from that intake.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by gsrchad
stock, my motor claims 180hp and 130 ro so tq.... i dynoed it and got 226 all motor... on i/h/e and cam gears... on 94 octane..... i spent, 145 on aem intake, 199 on dc 4-1 header, 55 on test pipe, and 236 or something like that on greddy exhuast... 650$... or so... for 40+hp all the time....... and yes, i could feel a difference... obvioudly...
not to mention i spend another 325 for my nitrous 65hp shot...


I want proof of this one. I'd be happy if you proved me wrong, but until then, I'm getting a chuckle that you actually posted that and got away with it.

Why?

1- You're claiming a 40+ HP gain from 3 boltons and cam gears on a B18c. The only motors I've ever heard of actually improving THAT MUCH are a 2JZ and a 5.0L mustang... but they've got 2 things you dont... one has 3.5x your displacement, and the other has factory turbos!

With those mods, I'd put you more around 165-170 whp, if you're lucky.

But you've got non-turbo FOUR CYLINDER. Hell even the HYPE-R can't touch 200 whp with simple boltons.
My proof... from the "legendary" www.hondata.com...

http://www.hondata.com/images/dyno00typer.gif

"This 2000 Type R has JUN type 3 Cams, AEM intake, headers and muffler. An OBD I P28 ECU with a Hondata stage 3 install replaced the stock computer. The fuelling and ignition were then set up on the dyno as AEBS San Diego."

More stock HP than you... CAMS, intake, headers, muffler, stage 3 hondata... 183 whp, and TUNED by none other than HONDATA!! And you're claiming 40 more with a weaker variant of the same engine, less mods, and tuned by WHO??


I really hate to be a BS caller, but this one, i'd like to see proof.




Now, back on topic.
As far as boltons on a 4-cylinder, you're not likely to see much, if any, power gain at all. All-motor setups gain the most power from ECU's, aggressive CAMS, ported/polished heads, bigger valves, and displacement increases. All of which, a typical D-series will NOT have. There are some noted exceptions, but for the most part, the lack of displacement is a HUGE hinderance to gaining NA power.

The bottle-necks caused by intake and exhaust tracts is insignifigant compared to the lack of air-processing power of the engine itself. Decking out an NA D-series is like trying to run a GeForce 4 video card on a 200 MHz CPU. It helps, but not enough to make a real difference.

Put bolt-ons on an LS1, and you're likely to gain 50 whp. Camaro SS's are likely to shave a full half second by adding just an SLP lid. I know a guy who gained 10 whp from just cleaning the air filter on his 'stang GT.

Yeah, it sucks that we, the 4-cyl (and me, a 6-cylinder) just simply cannot compete when it comes to true engine power. That's why we either go very light, or boost the living hell out of our engines. The amount of boost we put on a B-series to get it into the 12's is enough to send an LS1 into the 9's.

Last edited by senseiturtle; Feb 15, 2005 at 02:17 AM.
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #97  
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Originally Posted by senseiturtle
Decking out an NA D-series is like trying to run a GeForce 4 video card on a 200 MHz CPU. It helps, but not enough to make a real difference.
hey leave my computer out of this! there is a n/a D17 with only bolt ons running a better track time then you are so for a d17 that's not to shabby.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by kornsined
hey leave my computer out of this! there is a n/a D17 with only bolt ons running a better track time then you are so for a d17 that's not to shabby.

15.1 and 15.23 are NOT FAST.

However, for a d17, that's incredible. He's probably one of the 5 people out of thousands ever to actually do such a thing.

Props to him,


but I assure you, I didn't go through nearly the measures he has to get to this point, however slow I still am.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
wow, deep thread. Anyways, no way a stock lx going to take an ex. My bro has lx I have ex, his **** is so slow that even if i dont know how to drive, I will still eat him! the lxs are freaking slow!!! especially on freeway, when you punch it, it wont go like the ex can.
He might get ya with a nuetral slam!!!
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #100  
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Yea theres no denying it, for me it will be a k20 swap and turbo and tune.But I have allways loved the b18,20 dual overhead cams in a hatchback fully gutted for street, I always loved seeing them drag the car forward spinning the front tires while the rear tires are locked.
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #101  
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i would listen to s2000man, he's right about most things when its come to honda, except maybe toyota stuff lol....i read the is300 thread lol.

bolt-ons are only worth it if you can buy it used. Paying retail for them isn't really worth it. Hopefully if they put a k20a2 in the new si. The k20a2's are going to get a lot cheaper maybe closer in the realm of the b series engines since there's going to be more of mainstream supply of k20a2's.
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #102  
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we can only hope the k20's will go down on price. then we all can be fast...or... faster..
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
Man, I bet you my $1150 set up will be equal or better than your $3000 turbo kit if its not boosted over 10 psi.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA that shyt is funny sorry but i put bolt on's on my vic and i lost hp. the d17 just doesn't take to mods like other car's do "EX: b series, k series, h series.....etc....
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #104  
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Originally Posted by spyder2333
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA that shyt is funny sorry but i put bolt on's on my vic and i lost hp. the d17 just doesn't take to mods like other car's do "EX: b series, k series, h series.....etc....
I'm curious what bolt ons you put on your car then... considering several members have gained hp from basic mods, including the one who got 15whp with i/h/e.....
Old Feb 15, 2005
  #105  
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
I'm curious what bolt ons you put on your car then... considering several members have gained hp from basic mods, including the one who got 15whp with i/h/e.....
I/H/E took the cat out and aem pully and venom 400 module ohh yea the intake was cold air injen

Last edited by spyder2333; Feb 15, 2005 at 01:23 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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somone else a few months ago said the lost hp from an intake also was a short ram if i belive. every car responds differently i guess
Old Feb 15, 2005
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skillwill has a little shameless behaviour in the past
I have toucan short ram intake with ractive filter so far as driving in the summer it felt like I lost power in the 1.5 - 3,000 rpm range but faster response in rev i 3.5 - 5,000 rpm. In the night it feels like normal torque and throughtout rev until vtech kicks in and pulls a little harder than normal with the intake. As of right now through winter. I noticed that with my short ram intake all day(morning 2 night) for u jokers, I have strong pull throughtout 3,000 + rpms. Definitely noticed a difference in the winter(temp drop)
Plus::
vic drives better with my intake and has an aggressive sound when driven. no exhaust and I use 91 or 93 octane
Negative::
it was only a hundred bucks installed.
Sh____T, F ---- cccc kkkkk

Even a couple of my friends thought I did engine work compared to when I first bought my car.
How do you guys end up spendings a G on bolt-ons.

Heres what I could of got if it wasn't for my girl friend.
1. new intake-""100""" bitch had no say in this 1. but after speeding alot. no more modss.
2. new exhaust-carbon fiber 3 inch/jdm angled installed """150:"""
striaght pipe or custom whatever it would of been another 50 (that means eliminating cat) after down pipe to end of bumper for u smart asses
3. new headers- 4-1 """300"'' installed another 45- 75 depending on time of day (b.s)

Thats only $650 dollars: i/h/e
colder spark plugs, octane booster and a good grounding system will give you a better response for about $100 more.
how are you guys spending $1,000 i/h/e

with the money left over you could invest in a used nitro kit.

My 2 cents.

or you are better off getting your head ported with intake

Last edited by skillwill; Feb 15, 2005 at 01:04 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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well due to the fact that a new intake that actualy are proven to give hp would be ones like the injen or aem intake and thows will run you 200+

and a muffler plus pipe is not going to run you 150 and your going to have to pay labor if you dont have welding equipment.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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where do you buy your intakes? I got my AEM short ram for $70 bucks from the honda dealership.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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a v2?
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
brewcity guys? what kinda cars are we talking about?
Its a local forum/club I started awhile back. I am not involved much anymore, but most of the **** talkers have serious cars.

PM me if you want more info/site link.

Last edited by TurboDieselDrew; Feb 15, 2005 at 01:56 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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na half of them have serious cars the other half hide behind the people with fast cars.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by skillwill
Thats only $650 dollars: i/h/e
colder spark plugs, octane booster and a good grounding system will give you a better response for about $100 more.
grounding systems are pointless, as I think has already been mentioned. they don't do any good.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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I think it's halarious how many people on here have Civic's and bash them. I have a EX coupe 5 speed and couldnt be happier. All I have to say is i'm glad I don't have a DX/LX auto slush box, esspecialy a turbo auto slush box.

By the way the Civic running 15.1 is a VP with non-vtec and a longer tranny, pretty good if you ask me.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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yeah, that cold air intake makes our cars so much faster!
Old Feb 15, 2005
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turboed autos arnt slow my car shifts a lot better with the turbo.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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don't argue about turbos on here this is a n/a disscussion.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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i cant defend miss info that somone said about turboed autos?

to bad it has also allready been talked about by many people about nitros and seeing how thats FI and not n/a yell at all of them also
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Turbo/Supercharging and Nitrous are drastic motor modifications that will add signifigant power, no matter what the application.

This thread is about bolting-on power on a civic, mainly D-series.


I made this point eariler, and will repost it. The best NA motor mods for power are NOT intakes or exhaust, but new camshafts, ECU/ fuel-map tuning, porting/polishing, and displacement increases.

Big money to do, but you gain more than 2 whp per mod... unlike i/h/e.
Old Feb 15, 2005
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
People say modding a civic is not worth it. I think it is. With alot of bolt-ons it will truly make a difference. I feel much difference from stock when I just bought my car.

What Im trying to say is, our cars are very easily modded. Doesnt require that much work to put a bolt-on. Comparing to my friends cars they have to dig deep in order to change something. For instance, one of my friends wanted to change his plugs for his v6 and I told him I would help. Then I realized its not a civic. His car was a v6 and only changing the plugs tooks long. Im trying to tell you guys that our cars are very easy to understand. Basically, if you have common sense, you can do it.

IT IS NOT WORTH IT ON THE D17.
I think you are high if you feel a "difference".
Go buy a boosted car if you want some significant gains off boltons.
If you want performance, ditch the 7thgen.Don't enyone tell me my car is slow because it's auto, cuz both the manual and auto are slow.Trust me I know what I am talking about.I got a auto civic in the 16's with 2 n/a mods and I am proud of that

Last edited by JX6; Feb 15, 2005 at 07:01 PM.



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