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Got another Honda I am maintaining for my Grandaughter. 1.6 engine. Manual shift. Someone has added new electrical and some type of oversize injectors. Appear to be getting too much fuel. I got 4 OEM injectors and there plug but am not 100% sure the person before got them right. Looking at the engine from the front. the first two look halfway right but the next two appear to have the wires crossed since number 4 is short. Does it matter? I need to solder the new plugs on.
when the fuel sprays at the wrong time it will hit a closed intake valve and performance and economy will suffer. i would compare the wire colors with a wiring diagram before guessing what goes where. do the four spark plugs have the same color on the tips(from use)?
they do make ev1 - ev6 adapters if you prefer not to solder but need the other connector style.
when i was younger and dumber(or more ambitious) i did the whole swap the computer / intake, add the injector resistor box, and convert the car from DPFI throttle body injection to MPFI. if someone did something like that, it may explain your current headache. i gave that car to a girlfriend and once she got rid of me, nobody knew how to fix that car or my science project wiring.
Thanks. The harness comes from the right (looking from front) and runs over. The first one was on #3. Over at 2 and 1, the come out of the harness in that order . I switched 4 and 3. Seems to run fine.. We are test driving it. Guess you are right that only way is to untape it (white duck tape no less..I hate beater cars) and see what color the wires are back behind the plugs cut in. Anyone have a color of them. My 4 replacement plugs came off ebay and they are a mixed bunch. All have a wire with a yellow with black stripe. The other wire is red, brown, yellow and blue.My manual for a 98
This ev1 - ev6 adapters. What is that? Al I know is it has some bigger injectors on it. If they are wired right, would not the car system adjust them to what engine needs? I am old school only want things right and stock. However, not sure I need to install these stock injectors if what is on there will do and were only plugged up wrong. It seems to idle fine. Runs OK. Granddaughter says sometimes when she is hard into it, it bogs. Personally, when she says that, I would just like to tie an anchor to it for her to drag if you know what I mean.
My manual for a 98 says Brown =1. Red =2 Blue =3 Yellow =4 Not sure what year engine is in the car.
to answer your question about what the adapters are, basically they are adapters to use new style injectors with old style connectors, or vice versa. i think i misunderstood what you wrote, as i don't understand why you'd need to replace the connectors otherwise... but now you mention duct tape. yuck. sounds "fun"
say if the injectors had the wrong connectors for the injectors you want to put in the car, they make these grey clip on adapters to change connector style:
It is a 1993 two-door coupe with the moonroof. It is the 1.6 engine. Will get the vin shortly. GD was told it has a replacement engine. Been a while and just getting it all in my head. Best I can tell firing order is 1,3,4,2. I improperly identified cylinder order above. Looking from the front, 1 is on the right. So I think injector 1 and 2 are crossed.
Think the injectors with the larger spliced plug is what you are referring to as late model injectors are the same as OEM ones with the smaller plug and someone just told GD it had BIG injectors?
Think the injectors with the larger spliced plug is what you are referring to as late model injectors are the same as OEM ones with the smaller plug and someone just told GD it had BIG injectors?
maybe they meant the plug and that explains it? i'm scared to guess. people do odd things for odd reasons. i hope it test drives better since you switched them and that will be the end of it. if you need the wiring diagram i'll keep an eye on the thread to see if you add a vin
Thanks. After checking them by firing with 12 volts and carb spray hooked to them with a yellow plastic plug drilled for the spray straw, I rebuilt them with new kits. My kit had two different length bottom seals. I think mine use the shorter one???
Thanks. After checking them by firing with 12 volts and carb spray hooked to them with a yellow plastic plug drilled for the spray straw, I rebuilt them with new kits. My kit had two different length bottom seals. I think mine use the shorter one???
i would use the short ones in the first and fourth injector and test fit the rail. if there was an extra 1/8 inch space i'd try the tall ones instead. same as you since you seem knowledgeable/wise. the closes i've had to a 1993 civic was a 1991 civic. i THINK the car i had was just regular o-rings, so anything i write would just be a guess.
Thank you. First time for fuel injectors but 50 + years of this work. I understand what you are saying. Had not thought exactly what they do. They control the space between manifold and the rail clamping down. Thanks for all the help. Switch plugs is the same as it was. going to check colors and install injectors tomorrow. Would be helpful to know if I have the colors core as mentioned above.
I think this is correct. 1993 Civic EX 2 Door Coupe Engine D16Z6 1.6
Wiring diagram supplied is the same as mine
#1 cylinder is on the left, closest to the belts. #4 is at the flywheel end.
Right and left are always determined as the driver sits facing forward. (This is the reason I have to really stop and think about left and right, they are not natural and have always been a variable to me)
Hi Ezone,.been a while.. Hope all is well. Fine here. Got my last grandkid enrolled in college and the other almost finished. 2007 Civic still going strong.
Will get vin off engine next time it is here. 95 in the shade.
I am thinking what the diagram is showing in post 11 is what I said above. Below the colors is the cylinder # I assume. So number 1 cylinder near timing belt on the left side(driver side) is Brown? Number 2 = Red. Number 3 = Lt Blue Number 4 =Yellow. You see it that way????
I do realize left is from the driver's seat but they also mirrored sketch.
Thanks Robert.
I am thinking what the diagram is showing in post 11 is what I said above. Below the colors is the cylinder # I assume. So number 1 cylinder near timing belt on the left side(driver side) is Brown? Number 2 = Red. Number 3 = Lt Blue Number 4 =Yellow. You see it that way????
Yes that sounds right
The cylinder numbers 1-4 are just below the C12x injector connector IDs, see cropped image here:
Update on the engine in the car below. Is that a 1993 Engine?
1993 Civic EX 2 Door Coupe Engine D16Z6 1.6 1HGEJ1152PL018822 Engine D16Z6 2605541 S4011646046
Got the injectors installed. Seems to run OK. Grandaughter says it runs better. However, this is the first time I looked at it and drove it. And the injectors is not her real problem.
The radiator fan was tight. Replaced that and check out the relay and thermostat switch on the motor were thermostat is. Fan now is working. However, ever time it cycles, it is causing engine to gallop at idle. Setting there in neutral, the engine will rev to about 1350 and drop back to 900 and catch itself only to repeat till it cools off enough for the fan to cut off (it's not running hot). GD said she replaced the IAC with a used good (?) one.
Says one of the two hoses to it (I assume to be small heater hose) she blocked because it was cracked.
Before the fan, it runs and idles fine. Could it be the other fast idle valve 16500-P28_A00 or it the IAC bumping idle?
However, ever time it cycles, it is causing engine to gallop at idle. Setting there in neutral, the engine will rev to about 1350 and drop back to 900 and catch itself only to repeat till it cools off enough for the fan to cut off (it's not running hot). GD said she replaced the IAC with a used good (?) one.
Says one of the two hoses to it (I assume to be small heater hose) she blocked because it was cracked.
Before the fan, it runs and idles fine. Could it be the other fast idle valve 16500-P28_A00 or it the IAC bumping idle?
Remove the intake snorkel and find the ports in the throat of the throttle body. One port leads to the IAC, the other port leads to the FITV. On a hot engine, use your fingers to block the port (bottom port?) leading to the FITV and see if it stops surging or idle speed drops a bunch.
On a hot engine that FITV should be pretty much closed off so it shouldn't affect idle speed by much if any.
It may pull a vacuum against your fingers but there shouldn't be a significant amount of air flow.
Fix the water hose problem first IMO.
IIRC the two valves were plumbed so they had antifreeze flowing through them in series, so if one hose was blocked off then neither are getting any flow. (depending on how it was done)
Hot antifreeze has to flow through the FITV in order for it to close its passage as the engine warms up. The IAC needs antifreeze flow so it doesn't ice up.
You said used parts installed.......IN the parts catalog there were two possible choices for the IAC valve, one for DX (TEC brand) and another for higher trim levels (Denso brand). IDK what functional differences might be.
The FITV (and therefore throttle body if someone installed one from a random engine) had four choices, DX vs higher trims, and MT vs AT. (I did not check for other model years, just 1993)
There is (or was) a screen in one of the ports of the IAC that tended to get clogged with soot and make idle rpm too low, simply scraping and blowing out the soot would get it working normal again.
Yes, got the message on engine match. And thanks for the above. Was totally lost. I had checked on an IAC at Advance Auto. They were out but that part is quite expensive. What's up with so many choices.
Guess you frown on the $40 one from China on eBay.
What part numbers does your book call for for the manual transmission?
I think the warm-up is a hot wax type and original and appears to do it's job.
Car was back. Still having trouble with radiator fan coming on. The galloping idle is actually better. Did it but only for a minute or so even with fan jumped in at thermostat fan switch. Going to put a new switch in Sunday.
Could it be the galloping idle is just part of the idle learning process I have read on here? Really showing my ignorance here. Had Honda's since 1985. Just not use to ones with problems.
FITV # 16500-P28-A00 looks like the right number for that vin
I found IAC# 36450-P28-A01
Not sure about made in China. Ya takes yer chances, I suppose
Could it be the galloping idle is just part of the idle learning process I have read on here?
I kinda doubt it. I can't see/hear it in person, but it kinda sounded like what one might do with a vacuum leak.....and a fitv that doesn't close all the way would be the equivalent of a vacuum leak because it is 'unexpected' air flow.
Sometimes low coolant would cause the old repeating surge from 2000-1200 rpm on cars because the fast idle valve wasn't sensing correct temperature so it wouldn't be closing at the right time. I remember an old accord full of stop leak that was doing this, one nipple for the coolant passage to the valve was clogged with stop leak or something.
08-06-2018
