custom turbo parts
10-30-2002
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custom turbo parts
Alright, everybody knows that one turbo'd civic thats on this site. And i was wonderin if anybody would have any idea which parts he used in his kit. Because i am thinkin about doin the same thing. And i did a lil research, and there are tons of wastegates, turbo's, intercoolers, bov's, and other parts to choose from. And i dont know where to begin with. Like what psi should i look for, what dimension intercooler, stuff like that i have no idea what i need or want. So can all you out there please offer some suggestions on what i should purchase. I would really appreciate it.
thanx,
Bobby
thanx,
Bobby
10-31-2002
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Rep Power: 0 searching would be a great start to your project. these answers will not come in one simple reply. there are many different types/styles of each part that is included into a turbo set up. my suggestion as far as a few of the parts are a T3/T4 turbine/compressor with a BLITZ B.O.V., TURBO PERFORMANCE custom turbo manifold and piping. the other stuff you will need to look into, because not only are they many many many more parts to the turbo, but also a wide variety of styles. goodluck.
BTW... there are actually quite a few turbo'd 7thgens on this site, not to mention all the ones that arent on this site!
BTW... there are actually quite a few turbo'd 7thgens on this site, not to mention all the ones that arent on this site!
10-31-2002
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Rep Power: 395 Parts List: (Work In Progress)
Missing Link Check Valve - $53.45 shipped
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs (IK22's for mild boost, IK24's for high boost) - $46 shipped
Tial 35mm Wastegate - $219.99 shipped
Wastegate Weld Flange - $14 + unknown shipping
RC Engineering Injectors (310cc) - $68.75 each + $10 shipping
Turbo XS Blow Off Valve (Type H) - $120 shipped
ACT Clutch (HC5-XTSS) - $315 shipped
2.25" Silicone Hose with SS T-Bolt Clamps - $20.50 shipped (auction not yet over)
Stainless Steel Exhaust Flex Coupling (2.25" ID) - $32.95 + unknown shipping cost
Insulating Wrap (2"Wx50'L) - $37.95 + unknown shipping cost
X-Stream K&N Air Filter (tapered and angled) - $53.56
GReddy E-Manage - $295 + shipping
Garrett T3 Turbo (.48/.60) - currently $395 shipped
T3 Weld Flange - currently $15 + $4 shipping
Jaz Remote Beather/Oil Separator - $51.51 shipped
First off, if you don't have an EX you're going to want to redo your exhaust system. Buy someone's EX header and do the conversion to the EX exhaust system. Either make your own exhaust system (like I'm planning to do), or just buy the EX cat and downpipe and header and an aftermarket exhaust system. Then extend the sensor wires. No biggie...
Next you'll need the turbo itself. Let's say you plan on upgrading the fuel system later on and you plan on making about 225hp at the wheels. Get something like a T3 Super 60 trim. Maybe even a little smaller. That should give you more than enough boost. Of course, if you've got the cash and you want the best go for something like a GT series turbo. The new GT series have a ton of options. Oil and water cooled for example. Dual ball bearings. Lighter, smaller, less parts. Everything is engineered better. They even have the VNT option! Look here: VNT Links The new turbo beetle has a GT25 in it I believe. If you can find one at a junkyard for cheap then ****** it up!
Allright, now you need a turbo manifold. I believe someone sells one for our cars... The D16 manifolds were rumored to fit, but they don't! The holes don't match up. The ports do match though, so you can mod a D16 turbo manifold quite easily to make a good turbo manifold for the D17. I will be using the stock header as a template and custom welding my own turbo manifold. I'll want an attachment for an external wastegate too. Stainless steel and equal length runners from the exhaust ports to the turbo are the way to go. Exhaust system wrap will keep the heat in the turbo manifold so that the turbo will spool up as quickly as possible.
Now I guess it's time for a wastegate. You need a large one if you're going to run low boost. The lower the boost, the more exhaust gases you have to redirect away from the turbo. Make sure that the wastegate you buy is capable of doing that! Greddy are really nice, but very expensive. Tial might be better and slightly less expensive. There are a couple of others out there... Just make sure to buy a mounting flange if your turbo manifold does not have one built in. Also mount the wastegate onto the turbo manifold as close to the turbo as possible.
BOV's are kinda a taster's choice thing. I like the Greddy Type S myself. Using a return line back into the intake, to quiet it and to decrease the spool up time slilghtly. I also think that the sequential BOV's from HKS are a good idea. They look like *** though. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG] Plus they're expensive.
Now, you need an oil return line going from the turbo to the oil pan. You'll need to drill out an oil in the oil pan at the top of it (as high as you can). Make sure you secure a fitting in the hole well. Welded is perfect, but a tapped hole with crush washers and bolts from each side is good too. A tube rated for oil would be good. Stainless steel covered would be nice, but it's just eye candy. Oil feed line can come from the oil filter feed. I would install an oil cooler and a remote oil filter and a thermostat to ease everything. Filter before the turbo oil feed line and thermostat to control cooling of the oil by the oil cooler. Anyway...
Intercooler needs to fit whatever you have. I have a ton of space up front with my Tsunami bumper, but I'll still have to modify my Tsunami bumper to fit the intercooler. I'm thinking about 10 inches high, 24 inches wide, and 3 inches deep. It's hard to route the charge pipes through the intercooler if it's going to be air to air though. Either both through the hole where the Injen CAI goes, or both under the stock radiator and flattened out to have road clearance. I prefer a water to air though. Flexible hoses of a smaller diameter all ow you to snake them through wherever you want. Then just install another air to water in the engine bay. No problemo.
Now charge pipes. Aluminum would be nice. Light and doesn't heat soak as much. They're a little more expensive than say exhaust piping from jcwhitney.com, but it's worth it IMO. Especially if you can polish it! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Now, how do you werge sections of the pipes together. Either with those silicon hoses and stainless steel clamps, or by welding. It's kinda tough to weld aluminum, but it looks yummy! Silicon hoses are allright and you can use pre-bent aluminum piping to make as few bends as possible. Roll those edges though 'cause you don't want the hoses to slip off under boost. Remember to cover the charge pipes with thermal wrap after the intercooler. Not before it. The air is hot before the intercooler, so we want the charge pipes to be uncovered so that they can radiate the heat away. On the other hand, after the intercooler we want them to remain as cool as possible, hence the thermal wrap. Not exhaust thermal wrap either!!! We want that on the turbo manifold before the turbo.
Hmm... Now something called the "Missing Link Valve". It's for the MAP sensor. If the MAP sensor sees boost it will tell your ECU weird things and your car will run like ****! Get it. It's worth it. Read about it here: Synapse Engineering You can also do something else for much less money, but I'de reccomend getting one of these unit. It's something like $80 shipped right here: Nippon Power. Not sure if the one for the 6th gen will fit our 7th gen, but I'll know soon enough when I start getting all of these parts...
Now I guess you need guages. No sense in getting a turbo without them. You need to know what's going on. Get a boost guage and an air/fuel guage and an oil temp guage. Those are probably the most important for a turbo setup. I reccomend the Blitz DC series. They have these little stands which don't require pods. These other ones that attach via suction cups to windshields are nice too. I guess go with whatever you're like. Get electric whenever you can though. There's mechanical too, but you don't want hot pressurized oil leading up to your guage to start leaking do you?
That's about it. I mean, there's the filter for the intake. K&N of course. Get one that's as big as possible and make the intake as low as possible to inject the coldest air possible. Sort of a CAI for a turbo.
There's all sort of misc. hardware you'll need. Nuts and bolts and such. A flexible piece of exhaust pipe right after the downpipe is a good idea to not transfer any vibration from the exhaust into the engine and turbo (jcwhitney.com). A heat shroud protecting the plastic fans from the heat of the turbo is a good idea. A sheet of aluminum will suffice. A water pump for the air-to-water intercool would be nice to keep the water circulating, but convection should be enough (I think?). A reservoir for the air to water intercool would be nice as well. A drain plug too. Remember to put antifreeze in! A boost controller would be awesome, a turbo timer is a luxury. Any questions?
Edit: Updated on Feb. 6th, 2002
Missing Link Check Valve - $53.45 shipped
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs (IK22's for mild boost, IK24's for high boost) - $46 shipped
Tial 35mm Wastegate - $219.99 shipped
Wastegate Weld Flange - $14 + unknown shipping
RC Engineering Injectors (310cc) - $68.75 each + $10 shipping
Turbo XS Blow Off Valve (Type H) - $120 shipped
ACT Clutch (HC5-XTSS) - $315 shipped
2.25" Silicone Hose with SS T-Bolt Clamps - $20.50 shipped (auction not yet over)
Stainless Steel Exhaust Flex Coupling (2.25" ID) - $32.95 + unknown shipping cost
Insulating Wrap (2"Wx50'L) - $37.95 + unknown shipping cost
X-Stream K&N Air Filter (tapered and angled) - $53.56
GReddy E-Manage - $295 + shipping
Garrett T3 Turbo (.48/.60) - currently $395 shipped
T3 Weld Flange - currently $15 + $4 shipping
Jaz Remote Beather/Oil Separator - $51.51 shipped
First off, if you don't have an EX you're going to want to redo your exhaust system. Buy someone's EX header and do the conversion to the EX exhaust system. Either make your own exhaust system (like I'm planning to do), or just buy the EX cat and downpipe and header and an aftermarket exhaust system. Then extend the sensor wires. No biggie...
Next you'll need the turbo itself. Let's say you plan on upgrading the fuel system later on and you plan on making about 225hp at the wheels. Get something like a T3 Super 60 trim. Maybe even a little smaller. That should give you more than enough boost. Of course, if you've got the cash and you want the best go for something like a GT series turbo. The new GT series have a ton of options. Oil and water cooled for example. Dual ball bearings. Lighter, smaller, less parts. Everything is engineered better. They even have the VNT option! Look here: VNT Links The new turbo beetle has a GT25 in it I believe. If you can find one at a junkyard for cheap then ****** it up!
Allright, now you need a turbo manifold. I believe someone sells one for our cars... The D16 manifolds were rumored to fit, but they don't! The holes don't match up. The ports do match though, so you can mod a D16 turbo manifold quite easily to make a good turbo manifold for the D17. I will be using the stock header as a template and custom welding my own turbo manifold. I'll want an attachment for an external wastegate too. Stainless steel and equal length runners from the exhaust ports to the turbo are the way to go. Exhaust system wrap will keep the heat in the turbo manifold so that the turbo will spool up as quickly as possible.
Now I guess it's time for a wastegate. You need a large one if you're going to run low boost. The lower the boost, the more exhaust gases you have to redirect away from the turbo. Make sure that the wastegate you buy is capable of doing that! Greddy are really nice, but very expensive. Tial might be better and slightly less expensive. There are a couple of others out there... Just make sure to buy a mounting flange if your turbo manifold does not have one built in. Also mount the wastegate onto the turbo manifold as close to the turbo as possible.
BOV's are kinda a taster's choice thing. I like the Greddy Type S myself. Using a return line back into the intake, to quiet it and to decrease the spool up time slilghtly. I also think that the sequential BOV's from HKS are a good idea. They look like *** though. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG] Plus they're expensive.
Now, you need an oil return line going from the turbo to the oil pan. You'll need to drill out an oil in the oil pan at the top of it (as high as you can). Make sure you secure a fitting in the hole well. Welded is perfect, but a tapped hole with crush washers and bolts from each side is good too. A tube rated for oil would be good. Stainless steel covered would be nice, but it's just eye candy. Oil feed line can come from the oil filter feed. I would install an oil cooler and a remote oil filter and a thermostat to ease everything. Filter before the turbo oil feed line and thermostat to control cooling of the oil by the oil cooler. Anyway...
Intercooler needs to fit whatever you have. I have a ton of space up front with my Tsunami bumper, but I'll still have to modify my Tsunami bumper to fit the intercooler. I'm thinking about 10 inches high, 24 inches wide, and 3 inches deep. It's hard to route the charge pipes through the intercooler if it's going to be air to air though. Either both through the hole where the Injen CAI goes, or both under the stock radiator and flattened out to have road clearance. I prefer a water to air though. Flexible hoses of a smaller diameter all ow you to snake them through wherever you want. Then just install another air to water in the engine bay. No problemo.
Now charge pipes. Aluminum would be nice. Light and doesn't heat soak as much. They're a little more expensive than say exhaust piping from jcwhitney.com, but it's worth it IMO. Especially if you can polish it! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Now, how do you werge sections of the pipes together. Either with those silicon hoses and stainless steel clamps, or by welding. It's kinda tough to weld aluminum, but it looks yummy! Silicon hoses are allright and you can use pre-bent aluminum piping to make as few bends as possible. Roll those edges though 'cause you don't want the hoses to slip off under boost. Remember to cover the charge pipes with thermal wrap after the intercooler. Not before it. The air is hot before the intercooler, so we want the charge pipes to be uncovered so that they can radiate the heat away. On the other hand, after the intercooler we want them to remain as cool as possible, hence the thermal wrap. Not exhaust thermal wrap either!!! We want that on the turbo manifold before the turbo.
Hmm... Now something called the "Missing Link Valve". It's for the MAP sensor. If the MAP sensor sees boost it will tell your ECU weird things and your car will run like ****! Get it. It's worth it. Read about it here: Synapse Engineering You can also do something else for much less money, but I'de reccomend getting one of these unit. It's something like $80 shipped right here: Nippon Power. Not sure if the one for the 6th gen will fit our 7th gen, but I'll know soon enough when I start getting all of these parts...
Now I guess you need guages. No sense in getting a turbo without them. You need to know what's going on. Get a boost guage and an air/fuel guage and an oil temp guage. Those are probably the most important for a turbo setup. I reccomend the Blitz DC series. They have these little stands which don't require pods. These other ones that attach via suction cups to windshields are nice too. I guess go with whatever you're like. Get electric whenever you can though. There's mechanical too, but you don't want hot pressurized oil leading up to your guage to start leaking do you?
That's about it. I mean, there's the filter for the intake. K&N of course. Get one that's as big as possible and make the intake as low as possible to inject the coldest air possible. Sort of a CAI for a turbo.
There's all sort of misc. hardware you'll need. Nuts and bolts and such. A flexible piece of exhaust pipe right after the downpipe is a good idea to not transfer any vibration from the exhaust into the engine and turbo (jcwhitney.com). A heat shroud protecting the plastic fans from the heat of the turbo is a good idea. A sheet of aluminum will suffice. A water pump for the air-to-water intercool would be nice to keep the water circulating, but convection should be enough (I think?). A reservoir for the air to water intercool would be nice as well. A drain plug too. Remember to put antifreeze in! A boost controller would be awesome, a turbo timer is a luxury. Any questions?Edit: Updated on Feb. 6th, 2002
10-31-2002
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Rep Power: 0 not to be a d__k or anything because i dont know much about anything but if you need all this info maybe you should hold off on getting a turbo. just because i was told they are tuff to take care of wether or not that is true i dont know. just make sure u research alot before you get one!
10-31-2002
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Rep Power: 0 i called up a friend of mine and he said that he knows some friends that work at a salvage yard. And his friends could hook me up with like a turbo from an eclipse gst. Now i don't know if i should do that, or just buy a hybrid t4 turbo? They also said that they'd install the turbo and do intercooler installation for about 1500. I am thinkin about it but not sure yet.
10-31-2002
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Rep Power: 0 well now actually i found a T3 Garrett turbo for only 395 and i am kinda leaning on bidding for it. I'm still not sure on this decision. Soo i'll need some feedback on if i should purchase this turbo or not. here is a link so you can check it out and give me your opinions
link for Garret T3 Turbo
keep on postin what you think i should do
link for Garret T3 Turbo
keep on postin what you think i should do
10-31-2002
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Just for an example, here is my set up:
TURBO SETUP:
T3 60 trim garret turbo
Deltagate wastegate (turbonetics)
Greddy B.O.V.
Custom turbo manifold (www.turbo-performance.com)
Front mount intercooler (29 inches long & 3 inches deep & 6 inches tall)
Custom tubing for intercooler (2 1/4 inch to cooler 2 1/2 out) (www.turbo-performance.com)
Oil line kit (www.turbo-performance.com)
Custom downpipe (www.turbo-performance.com)
Custom exhaust (2 1/4 inch)
20 psi clamps
HEAD WORK:
Port and polished (there is a lot of blimishes inside of that bish)
4 angle valve job
Lighter and 2 mm bigger valves
Bored exhaust ports to equal intake as much as possible
BLOCK WORK:
Bored and sleeved block (warrenteed for 30 psi by goldeneye)
Lower compression racing JE pistons
Can't find rods yet (i might have to stick with shot peened but they are only good for 9-11 psi when I find rods i will be running 18-20 psi and the motor will be good for almost 30)
studed the head (instead of bolts)
INTAKE MANIFOLD:
Used stock metal flange then added custom intake design with throttle body on side
Bigger cc injectors (1 inch longer than stock)
Used stock fuel rail for mounting injectors (have to cut in 3 spots)
Mounted fuel distribution block from NOS on the fire wall than ran seperate lines to each injector
Fuel pressure regulator
Return fuel line is a pain in the @ss (i might go with a custom fuel tank)
OTHER PERFORMANCE MODS:
Unorthadox altanator, power steering and crank pully
High flow cat
Custom exhaust
Short shifter
I have upper front and upper rear strut bars
I have lower rear tie bar
17 inch rims
Big brake kit (on its way)
Building custom roll cage in car
NX 25 shot of nitrous for low rpm turbo spooling
NX N-Ter cooler that mounts on intercooler to cool air
Three bottles with heaters and gauges and electric openers
Custom steering wheel from ichiban with buttons for horn and nitrous (custom bracket)
WORK DONE BY:
Brevard Cylinder Head (321)-453-3317 Vic did my work (internal work and parts)
New Way Auto (321)-639-3288 Junior (orders my parts)
Turbo Performance (818)-994-7087 Bob (owner and who I dealt with on my turbo setup)
My name is Phil (321)-403-7833
If you have any question feel free to write or call me.
I live in Cocoa Florida
I can get hook ups on any of this if anyone is interested.
EDIT: When I am done with this I will eventually sell it and start on a k series motor. (already have plans)
TURBO SETUP:
T3 60 trim garret turbo
Deltagate wastegate (turbonetics)
Greddy B.O.V.
Custom turbo manifold (www.turbo-performance.com)
Front mount intercooler (29 inches long & 3 inches deep & 6 inches tall)
Custom tubing for intercooler (2 1/4 inch to cooler 2 1/2 out) (www.turbo-performance.com)
Oil line kit (www.turbo-performance.com)
Custom downpipe (www.turbo-performance.com)
Custom exhaust (2 1/4 inch)
20 psi clamps
HEAD WORK:
Port and polished (there is a lot of blimishes inside of that bish)
4 angle valve job
Lighter and 2 mm bigger valves
Bored exhaust ports to equal intake as much as possible
BLOCK WORK:
Bored and sleeved block (warrenteed for 30 psi by goldeneye)
Lower compression racing JE pistons
Can't find rods yet (i might have to stick with shot peened but they are only good for 9-11 psi when I find rods i will be running 18-20 psi and the motor will be good for almost 30)
studed the head (instead of bolts)
INTAKE MANIFOLD:
Used stock metal flange then added custom intake design with throttle body on side
Bigger cc injectors (1 inch longer than stock)
Used stock fuel rail for mounting injectors (have to cut in 3 spots)
Mounted fuel distribution block from NOS on the fire wall than ran seperate lines to each injector
Fuel pressure regulator
Return fuel line is a pain in the @ss (i might go with a custom fuel tank)
OTHER PERFORMANCE MODS:
Unorthadox altanator, power steering and crank pully
High flow cat
Custom exhaust
Short shifter
I have upper front and upper rear strut bars
I have lower rear tie bar
17 inch rims
Big brake kit (on its way)
Building custom roll cage in car
NX 25 shot of nitrous for low rpm turbo spooling
NX N-Ter cooler that mounts on intercooler to cool air
Three bottles with heaters and gauges and electric openers
Custom steering wheel from ichiban with buttons for horn and nitrous (custom bracket)
WORK DONE BY:
Brevard Cylinder Head (321)-453-3317 Vic did my work (internal work and parts)
New Way Auto (321)-639-3288 Junior (orders my parts)
Turbo Performance (818)-994-7087 Bob (owner and who I dealt with on my turbo setup)
My name is Phil (321)-403-7833
If you have any question feel free to write or call me.
I live in Cocoa Florida
I can get hook ups on any of this if anyone is interested.
EDIT: When I am done with this I will eventually sell it and start on a k series motor. (already have plans)
10-31-2002
#11
Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: sovereign82
How much we looking at here (without exhaust, header, muffler)...cuz I already got that [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].
Matt[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: sovereign82
How much we looking at here (without exhaust, header, muffler)...cuz I already got that [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].
Matt[hr]
i cut the cat off your exhaust or leave it on to attempt to pass smog...
intake is basically useless unless you cut it to fit the new position of the inlet pipe...
so.. in other words... you bought everything to be either replaced or heavily modified...
i know it sux... but you pays your money and you takes your chances... [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/IMG]
Super Member
11-29-2002
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Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Who's Phil? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Who's Phil? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
the one with the crasiest Turbo and Gude head package...
12-05-2002
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Rep Power: 0 Phil went all out and thats what you've got to do to do a turbo right. 10 grand is about right. the turbo itself and wastegate, manifold.... aren't all that expensive, there are lots of people on this site that have put more into there cars then the price of a turbo. Stores don't tell you, "oh yeah, if you want to get any real hp out of it you also have to do this and this and this....." Hidden costs will add up like you won't beleive. Its not as easy as just the cost of the turbo kit.
I would listen to Grey
oh yeah. crower rods, $177 per rod, 8 week waiting period and you " sample rod and 50% deposit maybe required" is what they told me. 4340 bilet steel. talk to brian crower.
I would listen to Grey
oh yeah. crower rods, $177 per rod, 8 week waiting period and you " sample rod and 50% deposit maybe required" is what they told me. 4340 bilet steel. talk to brian crower.
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