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I do that any way....^

But sounds like I will buy the cam also and tune it with my vafc2.

see what goes down! I install an 04 tranny in my car next week.

Im afraid ill hurt my new tranny rippin through gears though.

ill let you know.

 
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Yes, GOOD LUCK ull def make more hp than I did so don't be paranoid. The only thing that you'll have to play with is to get the car to idle w/o stalling. A tuner should be able to solve that and remember you can't really mess with the idle screw. Keep me posted I need to talk to others with this cam so we can figure out the best setup to use.

 
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Sounds Killer Man...so Everything Is Stock Besides The Cam And Valve Springs N Retainers???

 
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Yes everthing is stock apart from I/H/E. I def need a cam gear. I might try a new header with a highflow cat bc I'm thinking my setup is still too restrictive.

 
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the best set up is to invest into a AEM EMS. that way you can actually take advantage of the higher revving capabilities of the valve train. you also wont have any tunning issues considering you get to create your own map with out the computer fighteing to keep the correct afr. all the emanage does is hack the signal just like a vafc or safc. it just has a lot more options that either of those. the EMS will allow your tuner to not have to fight the stock ecu.

 
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what about the meagan-racing test pipe?

 
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Familycar is right. The VAFC will work but the ECU will always fight the settings except at WOT. I'm probably going to save up and just get EMS in the new year. The car drives quite well but I don't wanna have the headaches of clearing codes all the time. Megan test pipe I'll look into but I don't know too many ppl using this? How has that been working for you 2K5CIVICBOY?

 
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well its been working fine..just gotta put up with the engine light...(po420) and the exhaust smell. which really doesnt bother me at all. but it sounds nice from mid-range up..

 
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familycar, the d16 intake manifolds have shorter runners. Measuring from the centerline of the runner the factory d17 runners are almost 17-18 inches. The Y8 are def shorter than that. With the Y8 manifold you will probably lose a bit off the bottom but you will reinforce the top end a lil bit. Ronaldo, you probably are choking it up a bit, Id use the HP long tube header with cat delete. Those headers rock, I made like 6 whp on an otherwise stock setup. If you are wondering about CEL from no cat, do the sparkplug non fouler trick, it does actually work like a charm.

 
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the sparkplug non fouler trick?

 
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that is what prevented me form doing the project. i had a head and everything. but the cam and valve springs alone are like $600 then the valves and PnP on the head your at like $1500. then spring for the ems another $1300 and then tunning. so your looking at over $3k to gain about 30whp. it just doesnt seems very cost effective when you can get boost for the same price and make 100whp over stock with low boost.

i did a lot of research. i even have a gsr i/m i was going to fab to fit when i did the install. but after i realized how much i was going to be in it i decided to invest in a 96teg and am building that now. its got a stock b20 swap that i am installing the ls intake cam. it already has the ls intake manifold and exhaust manifold, evoII exhaust, short shifter and act 6puk unsprung clutch along with some suspension mods and 16" rota slips. i am preparing to do a OBDI conversion with a kenji tune. i still have the b18b i took out and i want to build that to a 2.0l with GE sleeves pauter rods and cp pistons and a huge turbo. my goal is to make 600whp on the ls motor with a ported vtec head and cams. i want a low 12 on street tires and a 10 on slicks

 
Rep Power: 281

Good luck on your build with the teg. That motor is def capable of being daily driven at 400+whp just hope you don't break stuff pushing 600. My lil d17 is all I have so I'm learning the do's and don'ts as I go. EMS will probably be the last major purchase for the car as I've enjoyed it with every mod I've done. My car will never be a race car and I've accepted that... just wanted to add alil power and keep driveability. I'm not prepared for a boosted car yet that's why I went the N/A route... couple bolt-ons and call it a day lol.

 
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I hope he ignored the tailpipe sniffer. Any AFR device installed after the cat will give false readings. You can only use those when you have a test pipe installed.

 
Rep Power: 281

I'll have to agree on on the header part and on the spark non-fouler trick.
Long tube header with 4-1 style (I thnk DC makes them as well, no?). This header will generate greated top end power due to exhause gases will carry it's velocity longer.
Non fouler trick will kill cel to show up, when you have no cat. I use it and it does it's trik 100% (F/I forum section has DYI). No-cat will help with top end as well.

Sorry, I cant see now, but whoever said they smell fuel while running no-cat, something is wrong. There should be no fuel smell what so ever. I'll reccoment into looking for fuel leaks.

 
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come to think of it your right. the stock I/M on the d17 is almost a box shape makining the runners travel down and around through the plenum and into the head. the y8 manifold gives a much straighter runner though. a gsr manifold would be a good idea in this instance with the secondary butterfly to help keep the bottom end and still be able to open up in the upper rpm range. its just a biatch to fabricate. you have to use the injector plate form the d17 and weld it to the runners on the gsr mani= not easy!! but there have been plenty of guys that ran the y8 mani N/A with great success

 
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the head is still the bottle neck though. it wouldnt be worth buying another header that will allow more flow if the head cant deal with the flow it has now. i say port the head then worry about switching components for max power. opening up the exhaust is going to create a lower velocity with more exhaust turbulance. so it isnt really going to make a huge power difference unless the head was port matched