D17 weaker than I thought
i love my crower cam ( stage 1 ) the car actually feels like it has a little v-tec in it, and i have the aem v2, aem 5 bolt, and crower ca. car acts a little funny some times but for the most part it runs like a champ (granted its the champ of the 98 year olds marathon ) and still gets 360 to a tank
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reguardless of the fact, i give ronaldo9 props. if no one is willing to try out these cams and give us feedback (like others) than we wouldnt know what to expect. i know i'm personally afraid to dump down a lot of money and not know the consequences.
good luck with tuning and definately keep us updated.
good luck with tuning and definately keep us updated.
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I'm at work right now I'll def post them up tonight on youtube or if there is a better way let me know. I've got about 15 short clips and that will take forever to load. A few of the dyno, couple vids idling. and some street pulls.
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^forget the negativity, i give you credit, half of these people responding don't have the resources to do what you've done. it's a learning curve, and they cost money. good luck and with patience, you'll get the results you're looking for.
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How was it tuned? As in wideband, seat of pants, narrowband, tailpipe sniffer on the dyno????? Were you watching short term/long term correction? If you/the tuner spent any less than 5 hours on tunning it on the street with no less than a wideband, and a OBD2 scanner theres your problem. All adjustments to the emanage must be made when there is no CEL on to start with. As in stated above if your adjusting the idle stop screw the computer will only TRY to adjust it to where it wants it so its pointless. Tunning our cars is a HUGE challenge with a piggy back. I spent WEEKS in my spare time to get basically a CEL free tune and still build respectable power. Im first to admit im borderline lean on my tune. But its a fine line that you must walk to not get CEL's.
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I have an AEM UEGO hooked up and the tuner looked it at occasionally to monitor the AFR. He had the tailpipe sniffer as well on the dyno. He was watching the short/long term correction and said it was taking a long time for long term trims to adjust. He said something about most cars should be at like a 3 and my car was only at .8. I really don't know what that means but maybe you would know. I didn't throw any codes or CEL only when he tried to advance the timing and got misfires the MIL light came on. The tune was only about 2 hours when he called it quits. He was going to try to adjust the idle screw and play with the TPS but realized quickly that would not help. The car idles w/o cutting off between 800-1100 once in closed loop so I'm pretty happy with that. The only time I get CEL's is sometimes on really cold mornings where the idle is VERY ERRATIC but it didn't throw a code this morning. Just taking it day by day and see what happens.
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101 awwwww man!!!
i put down 115 with my VAFC2 & flywheel...lol
Was the "blue box" even doing anything???
Or was all this done with a stock ecu???
vids man vids!
i put down 115 with my VAFC2 & flywheel...lol
Was the "blue box" even doing anything???
Or was all this done with a stock ecu???
vids man vids!
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I didn't dyno with the stock ecu. First run was with my friends old tune on his N/A setup that gave 100whp and the best run gave 107 fully tuned by the tuner. There is something funny going on just haven't pin pointed it down yet. Perhaps the stock ecu is retarding the heck out of my timing I have no idea. Vids tonight for sure.
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OOOOO ya you bought the used E Mang box...
with pre settings & you hooked thos settings up to your car....
I remember your set up now...
I say start from scratch, re set that blue box, and start over.
good luck keep us informed.
PS: any way you can post some vids of the car un tuned and driving???
I mean on a stock ecu and driving down the street?
with pre settings & you hooked thos settings up to your car....
I remember your set up now...
I say start from scratch, re set that blue box, and start over.
good luck keep us informed.
PS: any way you can post some vids of the car un tuned and driving???
I mean on a stock ecu and driving down the street?
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I can only do that if i have a dyno appointment pending lol. My idle is great with the tune and don't wanna ruin that haha. You'll like the vids for sure just wait until tonight.
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115 whp & 112 wtq.
VAFC2 tuned, 4 puck clutch, 7lbs flywheel.
New 04 tranny goes in this Saturday (11/11/06)
I debate on getting the stage 2 crower cam with the new tranny.
This **** will cost over 2,000 by the time im done with install & new cv joints...
Thanks for the interest susuking.
VAFC2 tuned, 4 puck clutch, 7lbs flywheel.
New 04 tranny goes in this Saturday (11/11/06)
I debate on getting the stage 2 crower cam with the new tranny.
This **** will cost over 2,000 by the time im done with install & new cv joints...
Thanks for the interest susuking.
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I didn't dyno with the stock ecu. First run was with my friends old tune on his N/A setup that gave 100whp and the best run gave 107 fully tuned by the tuner. There is something funny going on just haven't pin pointed it down yet. Perhaps the stock ecu is retarding the heck out of my timing I have no idea. Vids tonight for sure.
Your issue is a tune and nothing else.
With the cam you only need to wory about delivering more fuel to the engine and that is all.
Emanage is too complicated for what you're after, plus it is a pain in the back to tune d17 with it.
If you can, try getting your hands on SAFC, cause this will allow you to add fuel at certain point on th RPM band. Quicker, cheaper and less headache.
Last edited by 03-Acura-1.7-EL; Nov 7, 2006 at 12:57 PM.
Your tuner should not be advancing the ignition timing, its pretty well at its limits for a daily driver, your misfires are detonation. If you keep doing that it will do damage to your engine. Also your long term fuel correction wont change extremely fast, 10 or 15 dyno pulls probably wont see much for changes. My stock ecu is sitting on the shelf. In its place, an AEM ems, hehe. PM dezod about that PCS system, I hear from a few people it actually works quite well on OBD2 cars.
did you do any headwork?? if so did you have it milled any?? you definately shouldnt have to pull fuel from the map. if anything its probably running lean! also did you make sure you had the timming correct and the belt didnt jump a tooth or anything. something is definately wrong here!!
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I did not do any headwork of any kind. Everything is stock apart from the cam and valve springs/retainers. The guy that did the install made sure all the timing and belts were lined up and correct. The motor runs smooth as I did not have one issue driving back 7+hours from North Carolina to New Jersey. I only get occasional MIL lights on cold starts it seems. Nevertheless here are some vids....
You can really hear the valve tick from the springs/retainers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuJRzRkHnsI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnQA77NaWEE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5x8YrYR25c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMhcZU30l74
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTAkoCh491w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdamaTE3VyI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVdbLyx2VN0
You can really hear the valve tick from the springs/retainers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuJRzRkHnsI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnQA77NaWEE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5x8YrYR25c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMhcZU30l74
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTAkoCh491w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdamaTE3VyI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVdbLyx2VN0
Last edited by ronaldo9; Nov 7, 2006 at 07:02 PM.
sounds good. Def got more than what you dynoed right there, I can tell from the vids. What were you using for a fan? What were the intake temps?? Makes a difference if you dont have proper airflow in front of the car and if you dynoed it blazing hot you can lose a lot of power that you'd otherwise have on the street due to fresh air coming into the engine compartment.
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I have no idea what he was using for the fans. Intake temps I don't know if this is what you mean but the dyno sheet says run conditions 51.12 degrees F humidity 16%. The car sounds like its making power but just not putting that down to the ground.
your head is choking man. the stock exhaust ports on the d17 are already tiny and now your trying to push a bunch more exhaust through them. you should have had the head PnP'd while it was off and apart. djmota got his numbers with a ported head and t/b if im not mistaken. also the d17 like longer intake runners. you should look into a d16y8 manifold. i think you need a new tuner. one that actually knows what he is doing. if he is trying to adjust ilde by the screw on the t/b then you wasted your money. you need a certified greddy emanage tuner to help things work in your favor and it would be even more helpful to find one that has experience tunning the d17. im sure there are guys around you boosting that know the emanage in/out and how to tune this ecu. do some more research
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It is and that really surprised me. Perhaps I just need a more aggressive tune to make more HP and I do need to solve this misfire issue or perhaps its just inevitable with emanage. The only thing is just to let the car warm up before you drive bc otherwise it will bog and eventually throw a code.



