gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Here is how I did the ports.

http://2k1civic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154478

They drained the coolant by taking off the white plug on the radiator to let most of it out. Then they squeezed that big hose between battery and header until most of it came out. There will still be some left around the head when you pull it out. Oh and oil spilled all over the front of the car when they removed the head. I guess it was all over the little spaces inside.

jrock2324

iTrader: (6)

How did they get it out around the head? I am asking because I am trying to get it out around my head. When I take my head off oil spilled all around the head.

ImportRacer2123

iTrader: (13)

here try this
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

More problems!

It just rained tonight and now when I'm accelerating into a turn, I hear this nasty clicking/creaking noise. What could it be? Sounds really bad.

Also, the car is vibrating back and forth when at idle. If I'm in D and let off the brake, the car will shake. Almost feels like warped rotors or something.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Now I'm also noticing some kind of water noise. I think from air in the coolant or something. Anyone know what to do about it?

Havok2k1

iTrader: (3)

You may want to go over the whole install. Sounds like some stuff got loosened up there... Vacuum leaks or loose bolts... Vacuum leaks can cause a rough idle or a motor not starting. The rattling might be a misfire. Maybe a sensor plug loose? Just go through the whole thing and make sure all connection are tight...

And put the three intake bolts in....

Good luck man, nothing like some old fashioned NA power!!

ImportRacer2123

iTrader: (13)

it could also be your header rattling against your front core support...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Well I'll look again, but that water noise just started after the rain. Very strange. And I'm afraid that rough idle might be from the higher compression throwing off cam timing a little. Looks like I may be getting a new cam gear. Is there a way to get bubbles out of coolant system?

civicstreetrcr

iTrader: (1)

you might have to remove the black plastic cover that goes on the head but im not sure if it will clear even after that

djmota

iTrader: (34)

To bleed the air out of the cooling ststem take off your radiator cap(when cool) then run your engine until the cooling fans come on. Let it idle a few minutes after that and it should be bled. I have pm'd you on the cam gear situation. :0 For the rattling grab your downpipe (when cool) and give it a shake It should move freely with the tension of the spring bolts keeping it sealed. If it does not move make sure that the spring bolts are installe properly and the shoulder of the bolt is not hanging up on the flange of the downpipe. enjoy

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Thanks. I somehow got two of the intake mani bolts on from the sides leaning over the car. I'm gonna try the coolant bleeding thing and play with the fuel curve.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Well I set my vafc wide settings like wannabfast had done and it seems faster. I still don't know if it's right or not, so eventually I'll have to get i tuned.

ImportRacer2123

iTrader: (13)

What were his settings?

civicstreetrcr

iTrader: (1)

Any Updates?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

All I know is last night after changing the fuel curve, the car felt alot better. I left the vtec engagement stock.

Next thing I need to do is put the stock muffler back on, because that Thermal rear section I have is causing the rpms to bog around 30mph. I need to call home and have them ship it to me.

So I still have that bad rattle and noise, but I don't know where it's coming from. I think that fuel system treatment is also helping. Now right after a shift, you can feel the car pulling even better.

Here are the settings. He only tuned them for wide throttle, and his setup is alot different. He has custom exhaust, intake, downpipe, and header I think. So I don't know. It seems to be helping me out. A few points are negative, and I'm not sure if that's cool or not for me.

djmota

iTrader: (34)

his settings are a good starting point I used them too before I dyno'd.
However you will not need to use any of his neg. numbers. leave them zero at the least. Vtec engagement is best laft stock. its fun to play with but stock is by far the best for power. If you want to feel a 15-20hp kick, set the vtec to 5k rpms. we did it once on the dyno just for fun.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Haha. Okay, I'll set the negatives back to zero. I do feel a difference as it is now, but only when I get on the gas. I think I'm starting to figure out how it works. So the wide settings only engage when throttle is at 50% or higher then? Then for the narrow it's at 10% throttle? But I don't have the narrow ones set yet. Should I just set them the same as the wide?

IronFist

iTrader: (3)

What if you're between 10-40% throttle?

Thanks for the explination of wide and narrow, tho. I was curious what that meant.

How much could you get from a VAFC II with just bolt ons?

Are there any dangers of having it set wrong?

What do the + and - mean? Does that have to do with how much fuel it is getting?

Thanks.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Well I'm assuming the narrow settings take effect between 10-50%, and the wide settings take effect after 50%. I think that's why I feel a difference when the gas is pressed down more than half way. I only have the wide settings and not narrow, so driving it slow almost feels like stock.

I think wide throttle is like wide open throttle (pedal floored). Narrow is just normal driving. And actually the vafcII lets you adjust the 10% and 50% values.

The + means more fuel, the - means less fuel that stock (baseline). You actually can see the graph as you adjust the settings. Wannabfast said the settings above for wide gave him 10hp with boltons. I could feel a difference for sure with my intake, header (both same as yours), and ported head.

IronFist

iTrader: (3)

Rock on then.

I'd consider getting a VAFC II if I had more info about it. Is it easy to install? I don't know anything about electronics.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

It was easy enough, just wire tapping. I did a bad job because of the limited space and probably should have soldered the connections.

Trying now to get the cam gear on, but I don't know what advance/retard means and how to set it.

IronFist

iTrader: (3)

How's the long term wear on our cars with VAFC II? Gas mileage? Etc. etc., the same old questions.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I'll have to get back to you on that. Right now I just have a little fuel being added. I doubt it will hurt anything, since it's just balancing out the extra air that's coming in.

UPDATE: I messed up bigtime trying to install the AEM cam gear and have given up. On the plus side, car is running great. I used some TB cleaner and I think my idle is back to normal now! I'm near the end of another tank again, so I'll go flooring it a bit more and then start driving normal again.

I think I'm gonna go back to stock muffler, because it's probably what's causing the rpm bog around 30mph.

canadian2k1si

iTrader: (5)

Good to hear that things are working better for you. What happened this time with the CAM Gear? I am still waiting on the Intake manifold, then I will be putting my P&P head on with a 74mm TB. Gonna need larger injectors though!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Yeah, I'm keeping an eye out for that. I know someone that can get me a deal on RSX injectors, but I need to know if they'll fit.

Don't ask about the cam gear. I just want to sell it and never see the thing again. But everything is fine now I hope.

Are you installing the pnp yourself? Don't forget new gaskets, head bolts (10), and oil/coolant. And you should port match the exhaust mani and gasket to the ports on the head for best gains.

canadian2k1si

iTrader: (5)

I only asked about the cam gear because I still plan on installing it on my car, without the dust covers.

I think am going to get some RC 550's for my car, but I will need to modify the fuel rail a bit for them to fit.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Any suggestions on the rough idle? Someone said I should get a kit to dial in the cam setting or something. Don't know much about it.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=CCA%2D4796

Cam gear is just a pain and I couldn't put it on without messing up the timing. I barely got the stock one on with the belt. Spent 2 hrs trying to get it back on. And then I've heard that since the AEM has only 3 adjusting bolts, there's a chance they might break or move so that the cam setting is changed.

canadian2k1si

iTrader: (5)

That's neat. I think it means you can adjust your stock cam gear. What a deal. That might work for you, anyone else comment on this device.

AEM ca gears have to be re-adjusted once in a while because the timing might slip a bit over time, unless they hit the dust cover.