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No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

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Old Jul 15, 2021
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No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

Got this car yesterday, car runs amazing once it's on but turn key does nothing. Replaced the starter, still nothing. Solenoid spins when jumping it but the starter/motor does not turn, so the new starter I got may just be bad. But regardless, turn key does nothing. Checked all fuses and they're good, is there something I can do before replacing the ignition switch to see if that's it? Thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2021
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Re: No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

If you know how to use a multimeter/test light you can check the switch before you replace it
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Old Jul 15, 2021
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Re: No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

and fuses. and rodents chewing wires. and... etc
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Old Jul 15, 2021
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Re: No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

Originally Posted by Colin42
If you know how to use a multimeter/test light you can check the switch before you replace it
Yeah I don't, but that's a good idea. We have one I think, I'll see if I can learn to use it on YouTube University
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Old Aug 11, 2021
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Re: No Crank on a 1991 Civic Si Hatch with a ZC 1.6L SOHC Non-V Engine

Originally Posted by brokeboi99
Got this car yesterday, car runs amazing once it's on but turn key does nothing. Replaced the starter, still nothing. Solenoid spins when jumping it but the starter/motor does not turn, so the new starter I got may just be bad. But regardless, turn key does nothing. Checked all fuses and they're good, is there something I can do before replacing the ignition switch to see if that's it? Thanks
Had the car one day and it ran great and when it's shut down the next day the ignition switch goes bad? That sucks.

At this point other than a possible bad ignition switch (which happens quite a bit in Hondas), I'm thinking bad battery or dirty battery cables and terminal/ground connections before throwing more parts at it.
These are normally overlooked and I know from my past many years ago I threw $$$ at part after part where cleaning up the battery terminals and cables was all I needed.

"Car runs amazing when it's on but turn key does nothing"
Sounds like the alternator was trying to do the job keeping it running when it was "on" but possibly could not provide enough re-charging voltage back to the battery for the next time.

For now before anything else...
-Make sure your shifter is not left in gear other than Park/Neutral (Automatic Trans.) or depress clutch (Manual Trans.) while trying to start the engine - Need to satisfy the neutral/clutch safety switch or it won't start.)
-Also Jiggle the key a while back and forth while trying the ignition to see if something like the instrument cluster tries to power up. This may help point at the suspected bad ignition cylinder if the key makes intermittent contact.
(I've seen a video where over time the ignition switches do go bad from age and a big wad of keys wearing them out so it don't hurt to try to see if something will try to light up.)

Battery Check
-Do you have a battery connected in the car and does it have a full charge (12.6 or so volts) with clean (wire brushed shiny metal (not dull gray) terminals and no corrosion on battery cable wires?
(A lot of times there is corrosion beyond the terminal up the cable insulation that creates a lot of resistance to current flow that is needed to crank the starter/engine over after the (12V low voltage ) solenoid connects the high current output cranking amps to the starter motor.
-Are the battery cables connected to the correct terminals and negative cable pigtail connected to a clean body ground after you installed the replacement starter? It's easy to put the battery in the wrong direction and hook the cables to the wrong posts.
-Check the battery for a swollen or damaged case/terminals and that cells are not going dry - distilled water is best to refill any low cells.

Main Relay Check
-if you turn the ignition key on (but not fully to start the car), do you get ANY indication at all on the instrument cluster (instrument panel lights come on or beeps?).
-The Main Relay is 3 relays in one that work in conjunction with the PCM (engine computer) that pressures up fuel to the fuel rail, allows the injectors to inject the fuel into the engine, and allows the coil to fire the plugs.
It goes through a pre-check routine when the ignition key is first turned on and displays lights and usually (6) beeps on the instrument cluster doing system checks before the ECM allows you to start the car.

Unsatisfied Neutral/Clutch Safety Switch
-If transmission is an Automatic, is the shifter either in Park or Neutral when you're trying to start the engine or is it in some other gear?
-If transmission is a Manual, are you depressing the clutch when trying to start the car?

(I occasionally shut the engine down while leaving the wife's '93 Civic EX 1.6L (AT) shifter in gear and then when I try to start the car it does..."nothing".)
(Reminds me and may apply-there was one time where the car stalled on her in a parking lot and the shifter got locked up and we had to use the ignition key in a never used lock to unlock the shifter (maybe somewhere by the shifter base or left side by the gas door release?
After unlocking it, I had to put the car in neutral to push it out of the way because the car would not start due to a...bad battery. I had to bum a ride to buy a new one to get the car started again).
if you get locked up like this, check the owner's manual for the location and the procedure.

Got to go get some ZZZZZZs - good luck!






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