Rep Power: 211

For the past two weeks I've had to add coolant to the reservoir on an every other day basis. I was hoping it was a loss hose clamp or radiator drain plug. I tightened those up today and when I got home I could see coolant on the ground and it was coming out of the reservoir over-flow (aftermarket can style). I removed the reservoir, revved the engine and sure enough some good sized bubbles in the reservoir. So, now the depression sets in. The engine hasn't overheated and seems to be running well so, I might get lucky and have no warpage. Other concern is the head or block may be cracked? It's a JDM B20 engine and the cylinder wall design is a siamese-quadruplet cylinder lining casting: http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html. There's differing opinions about these blocks as far durability but I rarely redline it (6400 rpm).

Prior to removing the head my plan is to do a cylinder (rpm) drop test on it followed by a compression test to find out if there's any compression issues. I have a pancake 150 psi compressor and a DIY leakdown tester but not sure if the compressor is adequate to do a leakdown test? I intend to take the head to a machine shop to inspect for warping, cracks and valves leakage. I will also check the block's mating surface for warpage. What's the best way to look for cracks in the block?

I've replaced a head gasket on a D-series SOHC but never on a DOHC..is there a difference in procedure? I have a B20 service manual and will purchase a Honda OEM head gasket and intake manifold gasket. Any suggestions prior to or during head gasket replacement?

 
Rep Power: 211

Cylinder 2 normal plug hole.

Cylinder 3 broken spark plug remains in hole.

 
Rep Power: 211

Sparg plug threads removed.

 
Rep Power: 367

ouch!

 
Rep Power: 211

Actually, it's better than what I initially thought it was: stripped cylinder threads. My dumbass didn't even notice the broken spark plug was still attached in the spark plug wire lead and I just assumed it was stripped head threads. I even purchased a Save-A-Thread kit on Amazon and some high temp red RTV but, I don't need either now. I might keep the thread insert kit though for potential future use. I'm having a bad run on automotive repair between my car and my mom's alignment/tire pull that I ended up putting my foot-in-mouth for.

I've been PM'ing Ezone about it but for some reason couldn't post pics via PM. I injected 150 psi into each cylinder at TDC and no bubbles seen. So, either I did the test wrong (no bubble seen) or I did it right and the headgasket is fine? The radiator cap I ordered online just arrived but I may have a flooding situation and the engine is not running so I have to sort that out first and then drive the car for a few days and see if reservoir overflowing persist.

 
Rep Power: 244

Glad you got that out and the head is ok!!! Radiator cap is a good thing to give a try.

 
Rep Power: 229

Good to hear, good luck.

 
Rep Power: 211

Crank no start in new post.

 
Rep Power: 229

Oh no! lol

 
Rep Power: 211

Link: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-position.html

 
Rep Power: 211

It's been four days since getting my car back on the road (failed coil) and I no longer see overflow coolant on the ground and no longer see bubbles in coolant reservoir when revving. I may have lucked out with just a rad-cap replacement. I'll keep monitoring it.

The previous owner installed silicone coolant/heater hoses and an aftermarket heater (water) control valve. The silicone hoses do lose water (not coolant) through permeability: https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...r-engine-hoses and the aftermarket valve leaks slightly when rotated via the climate controller. So, considering both of these two items I expect to have some water/coolant loss... prior to the overflow issue I'd have to add a half cup distilled water roughly every month.

Another thank you to ezone for guiding me through the cylinders air injection test and the no spark diagnosing.

 
Rep Power: 211

Coolant hasn't dropped at all since new rad cap. My guess is the rad cap wasn't working properly since I purchased the car two years ago as I always needed to add a 1/2 to 1 cup of coolant each month since I purchased it up until coolant loss worsened over a month. I did have a leakdown test performed on it prior to purchasing the car and there were no bubbles in the radiator at that time either.

A couple of days ago I fixed an oil leak (via valve cover stud seals ) using a set of Felpro seals. The Felpro seals are half the price of Honda OEM, seems to be good quality and the shiny new metal makes the engine look better

The exhaust flange bolts seem to be holding well also. Possibly the high-temp RTV is helping along with the doubled nuts.

 
Rep Power: 0

good writeup