1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
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1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
Hi! I was wondering if someone might have experienced something similar and could offer advice on what might be causing the noise. We have a 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E that makes a knocking noise at low rpm. Once it passes 2500 rpm, the knocking is completely gone and everything is perfectly fine. It doesn't seem to bog performance at all, but it's annoying, nonetheless. The timing belt and water pump were replaced 40k miles ago as well as the clutch, so not sure that is the issue. Anyone have experience with this low rpm knocking?
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Re: 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
You might post up some video of it making the noise.... along with showing how to make it make the noise like blipping the throttle, acceleration, decelerating, etc.
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https://youtu.be/-ArqmJS9HLc
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
Did it get run low on oil?
Is the oil very low now?
If the answer is yes to either question, that's bad.
Based on the crappy sound reproduction qualities of this laptop in front of me, my assessment and opinion is: Stick a fork in it, it's done.
Sounds like a rod bearing is wiped out.
Please have an experienced professional inspect and verify this, live and in person.
DIY:
It was thumping pretty loud at idle.
You can try disabling one cylinder at a time (unplug injector connector or remove plug wire) to see if there is any change in the knock noise, this can at least narrow it down to a single cylinder if you drop the pan to check deeper (bearing inspection)
If no difference is heard at idle, then prop the throttle open to an RPM where the noise is louder and repeat the same thing.
When you find the one that makes the noise get quieter, that's the bad one. Note it for later.
Got metal in the oil? (drain it into a clean pan and look)
Got metal in the oil filter? (cut it open and spread out the filter media to inspect)
Drop the pan and look for a pile of metal in the center
Then look at the rod caps, is one a different color from the other three? Remove the discolored one, it should be the same one that you determined was the source of the knock in the earlier steps.
Is the oil very low now?
If the answer is yes to either question, that's bad.
Based on the crappy sound reproduction qualities of this laptop in front of me, my assessment and opinion is: Stick a fork in it, it's done.
Sounds like a rod bearing is wiped out.
Please have an experienced professional inspect and verify this, live and in person.
DIY:
It was thumping pretty loud at idle.
You can try disabling one cylinder at a time (unplug injector connector or remove plug wire) to see if there is any change in the knock noise, this can at least narrow it down to a single cylinder if you drop the pan to check deeper (bearing inspection)
If no difference is heard at idle, then prop the throttle open to an RPM where the noise is louder and repeat the same thing.
When you find the one that makes the noise get quieter, that's the bad one. Note it for later.
Got metal in the oil? (drain it into a clean pan and look)
Got metal in the oil filter? (cut it open and spread out the filter media to inspect)
Drop the pan and look for a pile of metal in the center
Then look at the rod caps, is one a different color from the other three? Remove the discolored one, it should be the same one that you determined was the source of the knock in the earlier steps.
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It's scheduled to go to a mechanic on Friday. So, when you say it's done, you're thinking the engine is shot? Never had low oil or been run low on oil.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
On my crummy laptop it sounded consistent with a rod (bearing) knock.
At 2000 or whatever RPM it becomes loudest, it sounds like a piston is contacting the cylinder head (because the rod bearing is wiped out)
If this turns out to be true, it needs an engine job.
Used engines can usually be found, cheaper than repairing the original.
But as said before, have a competent professional evaluate it.
At 2000 or whatever RPM it becomes loudest, it sounds like a piston is contacting the cylinder head (because the rod bearing is wiped out)
If this turns out to be true, it needs an engine job.
Used engines can usually be found, cheaper than repairing the original.
But as said before, have a competent professional evaluate it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2016
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Rep Power: 0 Re: 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
On my crummy laptop it sounded consistent with a rod (bearing) knock.
At 2000 or whatever RPM it becomes loudest, it sounds like a piston is contacting the cylinder head (because the rod bearing is wiped out)
If this turns out to be true, it needs an engine job.
Used engines can usually be found, cheaper than repairing the original.
But as said before, have a competent professional evaluate it.
At 2000 or whatever RPM it becomes loudest, it sounds like a piston is contacting the cylinder head (because the rod bearing is wiped out)
If this turns out to be true, it needs an engine job.
Used engines can usually be found, cheaper than repairing the original.
But as said before, have a competent professional evaluate it.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: 1995 Civic Hatchback VX Vtec-E Knocking at Low RPM
If you're talking about California...........simplest way is to install an engine that is exactly identical to what you have now.
If your car came with (for example, because IDK which engine is supposed to be in your particular car) a D15B7 from the factory, replace with the same engine. If you have to reuse your original manifolds and whatnot, do it. All you're really using another engine for is the good block (rotating assembly) and head....everything bolted to it can be swapped over if needed.
If your car came with (for example, because IDK which engine is supposed to be in your particular car) a D15B7 from the factory, replace with the same engine. If you have to reuse your original manifolds and whatnot, do it. All you're really using another engine for is the good block (rotating assembly) and head....everything bolted to it can be swapped over if needed.
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