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Hey ya'll, im new on the site but since its been 2 years now of me dicking around with my Hatch i thought id come one here to also get help from other smart honda guys!!! I have a 1992 DX Hatch with a B16a SIRII swap.
Now all was running fine till i switched over my TB from stock to a Type R. Now before is switched sometimes while driving i had it bog out a bit and she would pick back up, but i looked past this. Now when i removed my old TB i noticed my TPS was cracked all around the housing and i was assuming thats what that issue was from. So now i have the new TB (Type R with a 62mm bore instead of 60mm, ohhh big woop ) all new Map and TPS on it, but heres the catch. I hooked all my hoses back up and ECU plugs and she reved up super high to about 3000rpm and stays there. so i unhooked my IACV plug thinking maybe that was an issue. (mind you with everything still plugged in there was no Check engine light but it still reved up to 3000 and stayed) Now unplugged it sits at 1500 and jumps up and down up and down (like i have my cams done, but they're not) and it pops the CEL knowing the IACV is unplugged. so when i drive just with the Map and TPS plugged in and IACV unplugged i am getting issues shifting and as well when you try to let off the throttle when cruising, there is no median to coast, its either accelerate or decelerate, if i try to coast at like 1/8th throttle it jerks the car like its gonna stall out but then as soon as you push on the gas it stops!?!?!? so im wondering if thats just cause i have the idle issue but im not sure, i have run through so many scenarios and tried so many different things, but now i have finally come to the forums!!! so i hope you guys maybe have some answers to help!?!?!?

 
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As well could it possibly be my FITV? cause i just switched to a new Mishimoto Aluminum Racing Rad and dont think i bled the coolant lines enough for air (im still reading a little warmer than normal but never overheating, and thermostats working and opening up) but could the possible air still trapped in the lines cause the FITV to stay open the whole time instead of shutting when warm and keep it doing that rev/jumping? as well my Idol Screw on the side of my TypeR TB is epoxied over, so i cant really adjust that either :s PLZ HELP GUYS!

 
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As a test, have you tried swapping out the IACV with a car that runs nicely? (Do you have access to such a car?)

 
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I have access yes, but its an IACV from a Skunk 2 TypeR IM. :s and im thinking that is a different IACV than whats run on the B16a, for reasons such as it runs allowing a different amount of airflow to the IM. so for a B16a IACV , no i do not have access and a new one is a cpl hundred bucks

 
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Seems like those are possible too. And since things were working better before the new throttle body, the epoxied idle adjusting screw seems like a suspicious candidate. Why is it epoxied anyway?

 
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Bummer. You could always go the ebay or junkyard route if you're not in a hurry. But I'd try other things first- have you tried switching back to the old throttle body (with the cracked position sensor) to see if performance returns to how it was?

 
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well, thats what i thought too, so i switched back to the old TB and it actually got worse and is now running better with the new TypeR TB back on her.
Yeah i thought so too for the epoxied IAS but i was looking at other info online and alot of ppl said they are mostly epoxied over as to fix it in place to make sure its in proper for that throttle body, but apparently you can crack the epoxy away and loosen the screw so i may also attempt to do this (as well it said its not always possible) so this makes for a tough issue to resolve
i just want my baby back

 
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The service manual also mentions temperature sensor, lock up valve, and exhaust gas recirculation system. Hopefully someone who has a better idea of how to narrow down the possiblities will weigh in on this too...

 
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bump for help !!!

 
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Okay so i have FINALLY narrowed it down. I was searching on the threads here and found some info. If you let the car get to running temp. and take off your intake there are the 2 holes in the left side of the TB. Top one leading to IACV and the bottom to the FITV. (On a b16a, or any b-series for that matter) Now when you plug/cover the top hole leading to the IACV your car should stutter and then shut off knowing there is an issue and no air can get through to the IACV. Now if it still runs, you have a VACUUM LEAK! So Mine kept running, so now i know i have a vacuum leak. SO then after i plugged the FITV and the car dropped from it doing the surging from 1500-2300 and went straight to the 800rpm idle. No more messed up shifting and no more surging, but thats a temp fix. so i am assuming my FITV is messed due to the fact that when i cover it, it acts as if the valve has closed. SO with it running like **** with it uncovered the valve stays open, so i think i may need to just bleed my lines more of air and or adjust the FITV plate on the inside of it (white plate with slots in it like a screw, holds spring in tight to create seal.)

SO i hope this fixes my issue.

 
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Thanks for the Help guys, i figured out what it was, my internal housing on my FITV was lose so i disassembled it and then retightened it in and she runs finw with that nowwww i have an issue with CEL for TPS and MAP sensors just replaced TPS still throwing both codes when 3 days ago all was fine and dandy!!?? what can be causing tht now!!!???