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Hello guys i'm a new member. First off. Very good and helpful site. I've looked through the forums before for Advice. So i decided to become and member and help anyway i can. Second, Thanks to all the guys that have many years of experience working on honda's helping other's.

Ok question time I have a 95 honda civic ex vtec. and the idle has been very low in rpm. When warmed up its still very low. Like the car i barley running. So i did some searching and found the Iac valve. do i pulled it off and seems to look somewhat clean inside. so i stuck it back on. I started the car pulled the 2 hose's off to see if theres vacuum ( I assume theres vacuum correct?) well I seen Water shoot out of the hose closest to the passanger side. and no vacuum. So im trying to get the motor to idle like the way it should. And i do have a cold air intake so maybe water got sucked up? What should i do from here. And does anyone know what size that ( Looks like a allen wrench head But with 5 sides bolt) to open the Iacv and clean it.

This is what mine looks like.

 
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-The allen looking thing is a Torx. Does it look like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...set-67887.html They also have reverse Torx: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-68016.html *Those are just examples not the actual ones you need.

-Those are water hoses on the IACV, it's supposed be there.

-Replace the gasket if it needs it.

-Check for codes: http://check-engine-light-codes.blog...retrieval.html

 
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What should I do?

 
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You need to test the iacv that is in the car. You can use an ohm meter to ohm out the terminals on the plug. Also your going to need to clean the inside of the valve. If you google "How to test an iac valve" it will tell you. Rough idle could also be the PCV valve.

 
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Awesome ill will do both this weekend. I will let yall know thanks.

 
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Hey guys, Well ive replaced the Pcv and still low idle. So i guess i can test the Iacv tommorrow. Ive heard you can test it off your battery if it clicks its good right?

 
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I ran codes. I believe i did it right.

But this is what i got

7 Throttle postion sensor
10 intake air temp sensor
14 Idle air control valve
21 V-TEC control solenoid
41 Heated oxygen sensor heater

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaBoV9Ben_o[/youtube]
heres the video of the code checking.

What do i do now?

 
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Looks like you did it right. Since one of the codes was the iac valve I would start with that. The V tech selonoid shouldn't effect your idle. A bad O2 sensor could but since it said it was the heater circuit I doubt it, it's most likely the iac valve.

 
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Tomorrow i plan on going to a junk yard and pull all the sensors off a wrecked civic and try that.

 
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Hey just just a update. Over the last 5 days ive have been dealing with a valve cover leak. come to find out were i tighten the valve cover screw the part were the stubs screws into is broken. a chunk is missing so i got a new head and getting it machined. I ordered new sensors. and come to find out i have a rare motor. i have the d16 zc. Ive researched the motor and people said its a rare motor it is sohc vtec rated @Power : 128 hp (95.6 kW, 130 ps) at 6,600 rpm so i guess that is good. well i got this new head. i was wonder since im takeing it to a machine shop what if i throw a little bit bigger cam and bigger valves what whould the results from that do?

 
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Don't quote me but, I think you need some type of engine management.

 
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Hey guys I still have low Idle. Its very annoying. I ordered a Idle air control valve. And come to find out it was bad. So the guy is sending me another one. But in the mean time i was looking through the vacuum lines and i seen something that was very Different. Im wondering if i have a intake that isnt for my car? In the picture below explains it.



The red circle shows a nipple there and i dont have that nipple on my intake.
The fuel pressure reg line was a 3 way vacuum connect and the EVAP line runs into it. the blue line in the picture. This isnt they way its suppose to be this way??

But when i take the hose off the fuel pressure reg. The car idles fine. But when you put it back on runs in the 250rpm range. something is not right here. Can the Fuel Pressure Reg be dirty??? Does the fuel pressure reg have vacuum?

I have a new head being worked on and will be ready friday. should i get a new intake? I can make a video and show the car running and how the vacuum lines are ran.

 
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its possible the fpr is bad based on what you described. it does need to have vacuum but it could also be a problem with the part internally.

 
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awesome ill try and clean it out tommorrow.

 
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im pretty sure you have to just replace it. the diaphragm inside usually breaks and there is nothing to really clean.

 
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Hey guys heres a update. The car is running great. I cleaned the Fast idle valve i got a new Idle air control valve. The car idles great.

One of the issues ive had with this car Is when the rpms get to around 1300rpm it will sit there and sounds likes its 2 steping. Its very annoying. When you get on the gas a lil it will pass 1300 rpm and not do it. When you step on the gas slowly It will sit at 1300rpm and do that 2 step crap. A freind told me it was the egr valve but d16 hondas dont have a egr valve. From what ive researched. I uset to have a 97 civic and someone swaped a d15 in it and it did the samething when you gas it slowly it the rpms whould kinda lock and do a step kinda thing. Any ideas? I can take a video and show.

 
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Anyone have this problem?

 
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if you have obdII car (95+ civics), you must reset the ecu and do the idle learn procedure. otherwise the idle can stay jumpy and "stick" when you rev the engine and let go of the gas. the rpm will fall, get stuck, and then fall some more. this is especially very important if you remove or change any air system parts like throttle body, any idle air sensors, egr, intake mani, etc. my forgotten tuneup diy thread has the info towards the end of the first post. pretty much you drive the car til its fully warmed up, park the car and shut it off, pull the battery cable for 5-10 secs, put it back, start car and let it idle for 10 mins without using any accessories or pressing the gas. leave hood closed and be sure you hear the cooling fans going on and off at least a couple times. maybe wait 15 mins just to be sure. turn car off, wait, then restart and go for a drive. idle should be set. it can take a while (around 200 miles and various driving conditions) for the ecu to set the readiness codes so you can pass smog.

 
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Hey guys heres a video i found on youtube they think its the Idle air control valve. Its not. Ive replaced mine and the ecu isnt throwing a code. So its all good. Its sounds like a rev limter at low rpms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0D6EejOk68

 
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Any ideas?

 
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bump.