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Here are the pictures of the head gasket failure on my 1995 Civic 1.5, non vtech.. This is the third one in 20k miles..

 
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dude! what are you doing to burn through 'em so quickly??

 
Rep Power: 313

Could be the block and head arent getting cleaned properly or the head is warped? Sucks to hear though

 
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I bought this car from a friend.. He had the gasket blow on him..The engine got hot and overheated. Took it to a shop, they put in a new one, machined the head and 500 miles later, it blew again.. They installed a new one again and that lasted 19,500 miles. Then it started to bubble in the radiator, run not quite as smooth, and have exhaust gasses detected in coolant. So, he sold me the car (gave up on it). I just took the head off and see on the #1 and #4 cylinders, looks like a hole or pit in the gasket to the fire ring. I just purchased new bolts, gasket (oe gasket and bolts). I think they were either using a cheap gasket or not doing the job well. On this last time it blew, they told him that maybe a cylinder sleeve had come loose and caused it to blow.. (this engine doesnt have sleeves.)

 
Rep Power: 388

There are only three things it could be that caused this headgasket to fail

1) Cheap/crappy headgasket
2) Bottom of head/top of block is not flat or has dirt on it
3) Improper torquing sequence (or stretched head bolts)

If all three of these things are done properly, the headgasket wont fail.

Being this headgasket was replaced twice before, I doubt the head bolts were replaced- so your going to need to get a new set. The ones to go with a ARP bolts, because of the high tensile strength material they are made of- it stretches less.

 
Rep Power: 313

Generally, Honda head bolts don't have to be replaced because they don't stretch like other manufacturers head bolts do. But after this many failures, I agree with Triz. Change the head bolts next time you do the gasket. Take the head to a different shop to get checked out, and make sure the block is very clean when you reinstall the head.

 
Rep Power: 812

you have to figure out why it overheats first. what happened the first time? it looks like that gasket was cooking. make sure you fix the overheating problem (thermostat, sensor, fans, water pump, etc) otherwise you will keep blowing them. is the temp gauge working?

 
Rep Power: 313

Ahh yes if the car is still overheating after the head gasket change the head gasket will blow again.. Good call gearbox, I just assumed it was fixed

 
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This last time it blew, it just started to run less smooth then it used to.. The temp gauge and fan appear to be working properly. Thats why I think they used a cheap gasket and hurried through the job. I am doing it myself this time and bought new bolts and oe gaskets.

 
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just be sure to work slowly and tighten all the head bolts correctly at their proper torque sequences and orders. go easy on it first few times you drive to give everything a chance to seat properly.

 
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what do you think of the spray on stuff to help head gaskets?? I saw someone use the permatex copper spray.. what do you think..

 
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So, I was looking at my new head gasket (got a oe honda one) and it does not say one side is up like other cars do... Is there an "up" side to them?

 
Rep Power: 367

they are asymmetrical, i assume - note there are more holes in one side of the head, the one closer to the fender? (needs more cooling for that). you can place it only one way to fit them, prolly (sorry, never took the head off to know, and mine is 7th gen.
And if you not sure about the temperature, get an aftermarket gauge? or just a handheld thermometer? (I have other uses for them, though...)

 
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It's pretty easy to see. It does go in one way only but the water jackets and other parts won't line up if its not facing the proper way.

 
Rep Power: 208

I would get the block and head machined.

When you torque the first sequence, repeat the sequence a 1/4 of a turn at a time until you reach the proper torque value. This assures proper seating.

Also tap all of the threads in the block and use new head bolts, and put a little oil or engine assemby lube on the bolt threads.

And double check all of the cooling system thouroughly!

 
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Dont re-tap the block or the new bolts wont fit!

 
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I'm sorry, but what the hell are you talking about? Retapping the threads in the block will make the new head bolts fit perfectly. It removes imperfections in the threads so that you can get a proper(and even) torque value for every bolt.

 
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yeah triz i think he meant "chase" the original threads not retap them with a bigger size. i do that all the time and usually it works without having to cut new threads with a larger size.

 
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I agree with gearbox. Never retap the threads in the block, you should clean the threads with a thread chaser. ARP also offers these tools individually or in a complete set. Any repair manual will explain the same procedure (do not tap the threads, clean the threads with the proper tool).

Most head gasket should go on dry, no sealant. The gasket should come with instructions in regards to this procedure. Fel-pro head gaskets have always been installed dry.

Before you install the cyl. head have a machine shop inspect the head most importantly the mating surface and verify it is ok for installation. In regards to the block, clean the deck thoroughly and if possible has somebody inspect the deck for straightness.

For multiple gaskets to fail I would spend a little now, then having to teardown the whole thing again.

Buy new head bolts and verify if these bolts are torque to yield or not. This make a huge differnce when torquing the heads.

Goodluck!!

 
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First I want to say thanks to all for the help.. The next is another question, I got the engine all together and it runs well. I need to set the timing and I want to readjust the timing belt tension. I set it as per the book and like a dumbass went a little tighter for good measure. Now I can hear a little noise from the tensioner. I want to set it back to what it is supposed to be. Can this be done without completely taking all the belts, crank pulley and covers off?

 
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youve got to have deck warpage or clogged water jackets to be blowing those that quickly. you can usually pull100k+ outta a gasket. Flat edge that head and block for sure and have it pressure tested, you definately have an issue with one of those two.

 
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yes theres a little hole in the lower cover to get to the bolt. btw you may have to have your valves replaced it looks like you have some nasty pre detonation marks on them. Just wanna make sure it hasnt scarred the valve seats or piston heads man otherwise youll be ripping it apart again.

 
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If i reuse headbolts i actually add 2-5ftlbs more than spec just so when it stretches it does it more than it was previously.

 
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Always tighten the head in stages gradually to the torque specs. eg. 10lbs then 20, 30. etc working inside out. Ive never had a head gasket fail after installation.

 
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Well, I think I have the timing belt a tooth off, I cannot get the timing to set, its like I cannot move the distributer enough. I guess I am taking the covers off anyway...

 
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weird.....usually you can turn the cam gear with a wrench with a little resistance but it should turn. and crank will free spin with no resistance. if you cant spin the cam gear something is a miss.

 
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I can spin everything by hand. I am talking about now that I have everything back together, I tried to set my timing but I run out of adjustment with the distributer but the timing marks arent close yet. I think I have the timing belt off a tooth. So now I have to take the covers back off, realign the engine and retry.

 
Rep Power: 367

good point, missed that