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Crankshaft Positioning Sensor

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Old Oct 26, 2018
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Crankshaft Positioning Sensor

Hey guys im new here and i bought a 98 civic EX that I had been told kept overheat assuming it needed a headgasket. The only thing that was wrong with it was the heater core hose had busted under the distributor. I fixed that but it sat for about a week after i drove it and sprayed coolant all into the distributor. Now its extremely hard to start and codes p1336 and p1337 (P1336 CKP Sensor B Range/Performance P1337 CKP Sensor B Low Input). I have to press the gas to start it and when it runs its missfiring bad and has no power. It also doesnt sound like vtec is kicking in. I was looking up and I keep hearing that the sensor is in the distributor or behind the pully. I also heard that this shouldnt cause performance issues. Before I start daily driving I would like to figure out if i need to just replace the dizzy or the sensor.
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Old Oct 27, 2018
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Re: Crankshaft Positioning Sensor

What does your service manual say about the codes?
Hint: The sensor at the crank pulley is CKF not CKP.

The distributor got WET you need to start there (high voltage and liquid do not work together)


If it popped the hose and ran hot, it probably will need a head gasket
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Old Oct 28, 2018
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Re: Crankshaft Positioning Sensor

Originally Posted by ezone
What does your service manual say about the codes?
Hint: The sensor at the crank pulley is CKF not CKP.

The distributor got WET you need to start there (high voltage and liquid do not work together)


If it popped the hose and ran hot, it probably will need a head gasket

Im not sure if it is in timing. My friend said that's what it sounded like so I have decided to go ahead and do a timing belt/head gasket. So I'm gonna go ahead and replace the sensor. I did replace the distributor cap, plugs, and plugs. Then i unpluged the sensor by the crank and it still ran like the timing was off.
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Old Oct 28, 2018
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Re: Crankshaft Positioning Sensor

P1336 and P1337 are for the ckf sensor next to the crank pulley, but that sensor is not used to run the engine. I'm pretty sure you can unplug it and the engine runs exactly the same without it. (sometimes after a timing belt job the wires for the ckf sensor didn't get tucked into their little holders, then a short while later the alternator belt cut the wires apart causing fault codes)

Did you remove the distributor to do any of your other work? Did you line it up exactly the same as it was before removal? Did you check ignition timing when you reinstalled the distributor?
Has the timing belt been inspected, are the cam/crank actually in time?

My friend said that's what it sounded like so I have decided to go ahead and do a timing belt/head gasket.
Do either you or your friend actually know what the car is supposed to run like when it's in good shape?

I'd want to make sure this was actually gonna solve a problem before wasting a ton of time and money.
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