Wankenstein

OP: ever consider depowering the steering rack to make it a proper manual steering?

I know it's not for everyone but it's an option and is cheap to do.
I purchased a car earlier this year in which the prior owner disconnected the power steering pump but didn't cut out the metal/poly seal inside the rack. Also at time of purchase the inner tie rods were shot and the outer's for some odd reason didn't have a hole to insert a cotter pin.

I removed the rack, grinded the metal seal off, greased all moving parts and installed a new needle roller bearing the pinion rotates on. Other than purchasing new inner and outer tie rods the needle bearing cost $12. Manual steering seems to provide much more feedback from road conditions and cornering.
It does however suck for parallel parking and three-pont turns.

g4384063

Thanks!
Hmm? Unless, I'm missing something, my parts search on Majestic shows both sides inner & outer TRE as well as hub assy & bearing available but, what I call "DS Axle", and believe to be part #44011-S01-951 DRIVESHAFT SET, L. (GKN) is listed as "Discontinued". That said, on moving parts like these, I typically like to get OEM, if available but I appreciate all feedback, on the issue. Also, which after market DS Axle do you all like?

oneheadlight

awww yes, of the things I've lost, the ones I miss the most are my mind..

that's good you remember where you work, and how to get home! but yeah that was me over at HT.. Had the entire rack replaced with a reman Honda, tired of taking chances on aftermarket junk. And that reman Honda, wow.. it's better than the factory one ever was! It's like new! Plus since the shop dropped the subframe to get the rack in, I am enjoying the peace knowing it's covered by Honda (labor too on reman)..

since rebuilding this civic, I've seen a lot and I mean A LOT of aftermarket junk! There really isn't any $$ savings, since you always have to re-do the job again, soon, since the aftermarket part died. I'm not a Honda commercial, but show me one Honda part I've replaced that has died, not a one!

I will say though for my HX, Honda doesn't make the distributor anymore. So I had to go aftermarket on that one. Went through a lot (testing) before putting them in, plus I put the Honda igniter and coil in the new one. So far working well almost 2 years now.. hopefully it continues!

ok i'll let this thread get back on track! just wanted to respond to ya!

g4384063

Thanks!
I went after market for the first time, on my last 2 parts Denso AC Compressor, Carquest starter both came with lifetime warranty but I imagine that will be a more frequent occurrence, moving forward. As for, DS Axle, looks like this will be #3. I'm considering a Cardone Select, NEW for about $60 shipped. I believe it comes with lifetime warranty but still need to confirm. Anyone having knowledge and/or experience with these, I'd appreciate your feedback.

oneheadlight

I will say that I did go Denso instead of Sanden/Honda for the a/c compressor and my a/c has never been this cold! The sanden/Honda was scaled for fuel economy.. Sorry, when I'm sweating I don't care about mpg's! I want to stop baking!! Then again Denso *IS* part of Toyota (toyota owns a controlling share of denso), not surprised it's a good part.

Cardone, the joke about that is your CAR is DONE if you use their parts.. They're junk. This DS axle will be the same quality as Cardone, they've all sent it to china, no matter what brand you get, aftermarket axles are all the same.. except one.. see below..

What does it matter about lifetime when you keep having vibrations, breakage, etc?! Who cares.. It's about a dependable part.

You want a good axle? then call up Raxles.com small shop where they rebuild the Honda ones. Only thing they keep are the shafts, the CV joints/boots/grease all replaced.. Excellent quality, best I've ever experienced. Buy one, and you'll see.. And the price? Not much different than aftermarket!

Wankenstein

Don't they sell breast implants too? Rack-sales.

g4384063

Thanks!
I understand what you mean about when it's baking out. Just turned a/c off, and opened windows, for 2nd time since April and endured 3 of the hottest years on record without a/c in the Civic, before I decided to go for the Denso, this past summer. Now, if I can just get the mold/mildew out of the system, I'd be a happier camper.

Hmm? First, I've heard such negative comments about Cardone, their axles and/or the Cardone, joke but thanks for the heads up on that and Raxles.com, I'll check them out.

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all!

ezone

little carts? Rickshaws

oneheadlight

too bad you didn't find more reviews on how bad Cardone is! Most forums I've been to laugh at Cardone's quality. bob is the oil guy forum is one that I recall. I've personally tried their stuff, well ordered it, and looked at it. It was not even manufactured correctly.

glad to hear that your denso a/c compressor is working well! Same model as mine. It does take a hit on the power of the engine when on, but worth it to cool down!

there is a spray foam for a/c disinfecting that you can inject into the evaporator case and it will clean all that mold/mildew.. The other trick is to spray lysol at the hvac air intake, then close the fresh air door (recirculate) and let it sit for like an hour or two.. that'll kill it too. Just make sure you open the windows afterwards! hahaha.. that smell is in the car for awhile!
I had mildew issues before in other cars and that lysol trick solved it.

EDIT: forgot to say that you turn the hvac fan on high, spray a lot of lysol into the hvac air intake outside, then turn it to recirculate, and turn the fan off, let it sit.. hope that was clear enough..

glad you'll contact raxles! I think you'll be really surprised at how good they are! I had a honda tech tell me they looked better than the stuff honda was sending them! And usually the Honda stuff is excellent! That was high praise!

happy 2018 back at ya!

oneheadlight

ezone! well at least its asian! it might be Honda approved! lol

ezone

IDK about Honda approved but you can find them new on alibaba

Wankenstein

Hell, on alibaba you might find ten for a dollar...they sell some real quality stuff

g4384063

Thanks!
Did a little more research on Cardone vs Raxles; although I did find positive comments about Cardone Select, which comes with lifetime warranty vs. A1 Cardone with 3 year, from what I'm reading it seems like most aftermarket axles are the same reman part, from the same factory just re-boxed with different branding...? That said, after a bit of shopping, and talking to Marty, I'm comparing Cardone Select NEW with Lifetime Warranty for $43.41 shipped no core charge vs Raxles Reman with Lifetime Warranty for $199 + $29 SH = $228 + $100 core charge, if you don't have original axles to ship back. Raxles does include return shipping label for core, which is nice but it's 5 times the cost... FWIW, the DS axle is not available from Honda but the PS is for $140 NEW with no core, I believe.

Thanks for the tips on a/c disinfecting and how to remove the mold/mildew; will definitely try the Lysol, first. But actually, about to go cut some firewood to use in fireplace, for first time in 2-3 years, so I'll get back to you, on that one.

oneheadlight

wow those cardone are cheap priced! but it's all about what you can afford right now, of course. If the cheaper one is what you can afford, then be the test subject, see what happens. Maybe ya get lucky!

I know when I got my parts from Marty at Raxles, it was about $150 + shipping. And I did have the original axles that I sent back to him. But for me, the quality and dependability is what won me over compared to something cheaper priced. I had ordered the other brands and examining them I returned them without even installing them, it was completely obvious how cheap quality they were! My point is, I didn't want to have to keep replacing axles. I just wanted to put them in, have them work, and go on with life.

Sorry to hear that both axles (only one) aren't available from honda anymore. When I did this back in 13, both were available. But that's what happens as time goes on.. Stuff gets discontinued. Hey it's 20+ years at this point! But really $140 for Honda, new? not reman? That's still a good price from Honda.

They were much more than that for mine in 13, so I didn't even bother with Honda for that. I will say that I was skeptical about a small shop remanufacturing the original axles. But I was pleasantly surprised with Marty's work!

you're welcome about the lysol! Cheap fix, but if that doesn't work the foaming spray can (a/c disinfecting foam) is the alternative.

have fun chopping wood! I know it's cold here too in michigan. windchill was down to -15 or so last nite..

g4384063

Thanks!
As for axle, I posted elsewhere but FWIW didn't want to leave you or thread hanging... That said, I went with Marty; $199+ SH, includes pre-paid return shipping label, to return core, for credit. New DS Raxles cv axle installed! Although, I probably should've waited and done the wheel bearing first because now I have to remove the new axle without damaging it, to try to replace bearing. Live & learn!


As for the lysol! and/or foaming spray fixes...AND chopping wood; just had the coldest January in a decade, here in FL, during which I burned through an entire tree from Irma; followed by the hottest February ever (no firewood needed) but I found my new Denso AC compressor is blowing warm air. Mechanic, who installed it said "Freon leak but couldn't locate so put purple dye in system"...We shall see. Thankfully, we're back to average temps, so no A/C needed...but that'll change FAST!

As for the subject of this thread, replacing I/O Tie Rods, I have decided to go ahead and get the entire PS rack, as some suggested and TRY to replace it DIY.
Step 1, Hit the old Helms '96 Service Manual 1st ed.,...Where I have my first question, on page 17-47 "Steering Gearbox...Removal", what exactly is Step 12, "Disconnect the shift linkage (see section 13 or section 14)" ??
Step 2, Found ONE good video, but it's a '99 vs my 96. Doesn't look too bad but I can see difficulty getting to and loosening that adjustable hose clamp on the return line, where @ 21:40 Eric suggests trying from up top, with what looks like a 3/8" dr 20" extension with a 10mm. That said, he appears to have pretty straight down access to the head of 10mm bolt, on adjustable hose clamp, where as mine is kind of hidden and needs about a 1/4 turn to give me the same direct access with the same tools...Hmm?
Step 3, Lifted car and soaked everything with WD to try and loosen....
Step 4, Get needed tools i.e. 14mm and 16mm flare wrenches & 3/8" dr 20" extension, for feed and return lines.

oneheadlight

hey thanks for the update! I did see your post on the other forum but you didn't mention this awesome part.. you got the axles from marty! (raxles.com).. See what I mean about how nice they are!? Naw I don't think you'll damage the axle taking it out, just take your time. I've had mine removed/replaced many times doing work over the past 4-5 years.

I'm glad you posted up pics so others can see how good quality work raxles does! I was skeptical but I now realized giving the small shop the work is better than some anonymous corporation that has offshored everything for mere profit and forget quality.

about the lysol, no problem! and the a/c I wonder if it's the condenser (out front) that's leaking. That's where mine went bad. I think the only thing original now on the a/c system is the two a/c low/high lines.. even the evaporator was replaced.

And I see you're going to finally replace the whole steering rack. Yup, that's what I did about 1.5 years ago, and I don't regret it. It's the best decision, sure it cost more, but you pay to have no more issues in the future. I did have to replace the p/s lines because they were so old they were leaking.. I don't know if you mentioned it, but you might have to replace some of those too.

Thanks for the update!! Glad it's all working out!

g4384063

g4384063

One of the first things, Helms manual says under Index for P/S is "Before removing the gearbox, remove the driver's airbag assembly and steering wheel.", then "Remove steering wheel", is step 4, of removing the gearbox, neither of which, did Eric TCG appear to remove, in video ^^^. That said, is it necessary, to remove d/s airbag assy & steering wheel?

Colin42

if you can do the job without removing, why bother removing it?
the manual probably has generic instructions

g4384063

Thanks!
And agreed, if I can do the job without removing, but folks are always saying , so I just want to make sure, I'm not missing something.

ezone

You have to understand the REASON the service manuals want you to take apart all that stuff.

If you understand the reasons, then you can decide for yourself if you can avoid the complications some other way, or accept 100% responsibility for any possible damage caused by not following the printed service instructions.

The REASON for doing all that is the clockspring will be damaged if you spin it (the steering shaft) too far. If you inadvertently reassemble it all with the rack off center or the steering wheel one turn away from its own center, it will rip the internal electrical strip apart inside the clockspring during the first full lock turn.

Read up in your manual about the drivers airbag and replacement of the clockspring (might be called cable reel, or a few other names)

g4384063

Very cool, thanks!
Eric, definitely, mentioned concerns about breaking clockspring, when removing steering joint bolts but appeared to do job w/o removing d/s airbag & steering wheel. Will proceed w/o removing d/s airbag & steering wheel, and read up in manual.

Eric, also, recommends, not even bothering with clamp on flexible return line, and just to knock it's nut loose (16mm flare nut wrench, on my '96; 17mm on E's '99), when I knock loose, hard feed line with 14mm flare nut wrench.