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Hey, guys. I'm working on a 2000 Civic LX and I found two connections that don't have anything on them. I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I also have a P1259 code.

This one is on the passenger side under the glove box.



This one is near the OBD port.

 
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That one doesn't connect to anything however, during an igition timing check (with timing light) a jumper wire is used between pins on the connector located inside the blue rubber housing to set a baseline: http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ustment-16210/

Not sure about that one unless it was for and after-market alarm, stereo, or possibly a 12v source or ground source.

P1259: http://www.autocodes.com/p1259_honda.html

Possible fix: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...1259-code.html

Remove Vtec solenoid and clean the screens and the solenoid with throttle body spray. The solenoid's metal body can have a tendency to warp and not mate well with the cylinder head thus creating an oil leak and need of use for Hondabond or RTV sealer so, it's possible a prior owner used a sealer on your engine's Vtec solenoid. Search threads related to Vtec gasket replacement. Also, the Vtec solenoid has two gaskets: one that mates the solenoid to the cylinder (described above) and another smaller gasket that is in #2 response in this thread: http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-de...g-oil-2991847/

Here's a vid with geek-speak few others except Ezone will understand:

 
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Thanks for your help! But, I don't believe this car has VTEC. It's a 2000 Civic LX and it doesn't say VTEC in the valve cover or anything.

 
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Really?
Why is the computer looking for VTEC operation if it is not equipped?

Was the computer replaced with a wrong unit?

Does the engine have a VTEC valve on the head, and is wiring connected?


Did you just buy the car like this? Doesn't the seller have to make the car pass emissions testing before sale? If it's got the wrong computer with fault codes in it, that's probably gonna fail.

Pass side looks like the SCS connector

The one near the fusebox looks hacked LOL
Not enough detail to tell more.

 
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I'm working on it for a friend. The car clicks but doesn't try to turn at all. Let's say it does have the wrong ECU, would it still start anyway? This is the only code I'm getting, but it won't start. The connection near the fuse box has two black and white wires. They're pretty thick. They look OEM, so I doubt they're for anything aftermarket even though we did remove an alarm and sound system.

 
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Battery, starter, or cable connection problems?

What clicks, or where does the click originate? Interior? Engine compartment? Relays, starter, something else?


This cannot cause the above mentioned issue. It would run with the wrong PCM, and it probably had to run in order to set the VTEC code.


Did the starter work before you removed the alarm?
Put a test light on each of those wires, see if one gets hot when you try to crank it.

The wire colors on the other half of that connector, are they black/yellow?

That looks like the 'starter cut' relay connector for a dealer accessory security system, if it is then the wire should be a loop, twist those wire ends together and see if that gets it to crank.

 
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Thank you so much for the input. I'm not sure of the history of the vehicle, but I will try to find out and definitely check out the wires next time I can. The clicking comes from somewhere in the engine bay.

 
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See if it's the starter clicking or something else.
If the starter is making the click but not cranking, tap on it while someone else holds the key in the crank position.

 
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Will do. Thanks, man. I'll let you know how it goes.

 
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Some of them are black/yellow, yes. It's a 6-pin connector, but with two empty spaces. I'm getting pics from the owner and it looks like there's 1 black and 1 yellow that go into one space and another blk/ylw to another. Then there's blk/wht into another and red/ylw to another. I haven't tried to connect the blk/wht to each other on the other side yet.