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Hi

I had my RR wheel just about lockup after being parked over night.

I really had to work to get the drum off, bent the self adjuster, snapped both nails.


I replaced the wheel cylinder, and everything you should replace in a brake job... and here I am days later and the self adjuster again made the wheel too tight.

The old brakes weren't in bad shape (mid life on pads, drums were nearly new looking) but I junked them and the cylinder so I wouldnt have to mess with this again.... FAIL..

It may be the parking brake cable needs replacing, but why would that OVER tighten the brakes??

All I can think to do it replace the cable and adjuster -- both of which appear fine!

Please Help.

 
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Did you have both rear brakes apart at the same time?
Did you somehow get the left and right adjusters swapped?

 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Goot...ature=youtu.be

Here is whats happening, but no clue how to fix it without just tossing the adjuster arm.
It started doing this on its own one day when it was cold.
Prior, the self adjuster wasn't working properly, maybe at all, then it decided to over work and cook my 2 year old shoes and drums!


I did one wheel at a time, but if I swapped the adjusters, wouldn't they just continually loosen ?

Sorry for the grainy video

 
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Yeah, you're right. I guess I wasn't thinking.

Plus-- if the teeth on the adjuster wheel point the wrong direction, the lever wouldn't be able to catch a tooth very easy and pull down. If they point one direction.

Man, all I can do is guess from here.

Compare to the side that works, all springs in the correct locations and holes?

Is the rear piston on the wheel cylinder seized? (or either piston)

Rubber brake hose isn't causing the brake to stay applied/drag?

Long tube of the self adjuster isn't upside down? (notches for the shoe/handbrake lever different depths?)

 
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the wheel cylinder is new, I thought that was the problem too.

it did this with the old one, I had to really rip the thing apart to get the drum off because one cold day the adjuster decided to act as you see here. (lucky the nails were rusted and a little old otherwise i might not have gotten it off... snapped them.._)

It looks just like it did when I took it off. actually when I got it off the adjuster was very tight but the arm wasn't sitting the the grove.

When wifie was pumping brakes to bleed them I could hear it adjusting (car wasn't in motion!)

Its like every time I think "well what if I put in X wrong" I got back to "oh wait, the whole reason I tore it apart was it did this BEFORE I touched anything." ...after not adjusting at all for years....

 
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...rum-brake2.htm

What its SUPPOSED to do... sorta




Im going to blow 14 bucks and buy a new adjuster at auto zone... see what that does for me.

Or I'll show up with my pad and put the one they want to sell me on there and see if it also acts the fool.

 
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The tab on the new arm is shorter. the teeth on the wheel longer, there is more play between the two halves, and the short clevis is slightly wider than the old one, allowing the adjuster short arm to slip inside it




sorry for poor quality.

 
Rep Power: 518

Um...... Lay the drum on the ground, bowl up. Lay the shoes in there and see if they don't match, friction material curve doesn't match the smooth surface of the drum? They won't match perfectly but they should be close to the same arc.


Is there a "lip" on the edge of the drum that the shoes are hanging up on?

Is the spring between the two shoes stretched or weak?



The self adjust lever is only supposed to click the wheel a notch when there is an excess of clearance (shoe movement) between the clevis and shoe web...Why or how would there suddenly be excessive movement to cause the lever to engage the star wheel too often?
IOW, why is the mechanism trying to lengthen the adjuster?





EDIT: You said the aftermarket adjuster is not a match? This may be a case for factory parts?

 
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Thanks for all the input guys...

I don't know what it was but replacing the arm and clevis with the star on it *appears* to have fixed it. (I'll know better after I drive 40 minutes to pickup the wife tomorrow)

Springs were all new, though they been off and on about 10 times now so maybe not spec anymore.... Drum also new.


Still cant see anything wrong with the old one.... the only thing left to do was get OEM shoes and see what that did .... hopefully wont need to do that...

e brake now drags after 1 click. used to take 7 to drag, and 5 for the brakes to even touch when I stood on pedal (click 5, pump a little on pedal to move pads out, than good to go... just dash light is on... and need to do this every time I took the brake off.

if this doesn't solve it I'm tossing the adjuster arms on both sides and just using the e brake again. enough already.

 
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yep.

replace the part that looks ok and its fixed.... who would've thought...