I'm 99% sure even without getting the items to do a compression test that I'm looking at a head gasket. There has apparently been an intermittent overheat on this car since before we owned it. We acquired it a couple months back. By cutting on the heat we can quickly lower the temp as soon as it starts to rise at all. It usually won't happen unless you either a) turn off the heat for a long period or b) have been driving the car for much longer than it usual 30-40 min trips. I had been hoping for a coolant leak when it started drinking coolant, thermo or something along those lines. Replaced some things and tried to leak off the bubbles in the radiator to no avail.
Then I started to see the full symptoms. Loss of power when gaining speed when going slow- happens one time after each crank. Bamn, a little oil floating in coolant and coating sides of res. tank. SO. On to the head gasket repair. I ordered a haynes manual this morning that I'm sure will help loads. However, I want to go ahead and order ANYTHING else I might need that isn't too costly. I looked over a walk-through on this repair and came up with this list:
HG- I'm going to go with MLS
Copper Spray
ARP lube
fluids
Torque Wrench
Wondering if you think I'll open it and find I may need some other little stuff? hoses etc? This will be my first HG and my second biggest auto tackle ever probably so your tips, tricks, are more than appreciated. A friend I play pool with told me to take the head to be "re-maxfluxed" or something like that? I'm sorry I was playing a match, and was not listening well. How much should I expect to pay to get the head "renewed".... I like that better lol.
Then I started to see the full symptoms. Loss of power when gaining speed when going slow- happens one time after each crank. Bamn, a little oil floating in coolant and coating sides of res. tank. SO. On to the head gasket repair. I ordered a haynes manual this morning that I'm sure will help loads. However, I want to go ahead and order ANYTHING else I might need that isn't too costly. I looked over a walk-through on this repair and came up with this list:
HG- I'm going to go with MLS
Copper Spray
ARP lube
fluids
Torque Wrench
Wondering if you think I'll open it and find I may need some other little stuff? hoses etc? This will be my first HG and my second biggest auto tackle ever probably so your tips, tricks, are more than appreciated. A friend I play pool with told me to take the head to be "re-maxfluxed" or something like that? I'm sorry I was playing a match, and was not listening well. How much should I expect to pay to get the head "renewed".... I like that better lol.
Machine shop: Plan on a resurface at the minimum since it has been overheated, it is probably warped.
The machine shop should check if it needs a valve job while they have it. If they do (a valve job), then you will need valve stem seals, which may or may not be in a head gasket set, Valve grind gasket set would be the kit to get if you know you will get the valves done...
(valve grind gasket set = head gasket set plus valve stem seals set)
Read the parts list on the box though. Not all companies do the same things.
"Magnaflux" is a process used on cast iron, it's used to locate cracks.
Your head is aluminum. Can't be done.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection
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Why copper spray? Does the FSM tell you to use that?
What about a head gasket SET?? (should include most or all gaskets needed to do the head job)
Timing belt?
Other belts?
Water pump?
Front crank seal (oil pump front seal)?
The one heater hose that connects to the head under the distributor, probably needs that.....probably has been soaking in oil leaks.
Inspect all other hoses, especially the tiny ones. Now would be the time to change them if needed.
Figure out the original root cause of the head gasket or overheating....Radiator fan quit? Was there a coolant leak somewhere? What?
The machine shop should check if it needs a valve job while they have it. If they do (a valve job), then you will need valve stem seals, which may or may not be in a head gasket set, Valve grind gasket set would be the kit to get if you know you will get the valves done...
(valve grind gasket set = head gasket set plus valve stem seals set)
Read the parts list on the box though. Not all companies do the same things.
"Magnaflux" is a process used on cast iron, it's used to locate cracks.
Your head is aluminum. Can't be done.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection
--------
Why copper spray? Does the FSM tell you to use that?
What about a head gasket SET?? (should include most or all gaskets needed to do the head job)
Timing belt?
Other belts?
Water pump?
Front crank seal (oil pump front seal)?
The one heater hose that connects to the head under the distributor, probably needs that.....probably has been soaking in oil leaks.
Inspect all other hoses, especially the tiny ones. Now would be the time to change them if needed.
Figure out the original root cause of the head gasket or overheating....Radiator fan quit? Was there a coolant leak somewhere? What?
All right, thanks for giving me some more stuff to look up. That's what I was looking for. The copper spray was just something I saw recommended in a walk-through (on a different forum I think). The car can finally come off the road entirely tomorrow, haynes manual should be here thursday (good snow storm reading) and I won't be just shooting in the dark. You make good call on the heater hose- i have smelled oil forever, even after I did vtech solenoid and o-ring. I'll see what I can pick up on the full set of gaskets. I'm sure you'll hear more outta me when I get it dismantled. Thanks a bunch for your direction 
Quote:
Better read your manual. Originally Posted by moblakely
The copper spray was just something I saw recommended in a walk-through (on a different forum I think). Or follow the directions published by the gasket maker if they aren't factory.
The heater hose idea is just based on a common failure.
Quote:
The machine shop should check if it needs a valve job while they have it. If they do (a valve job), then you will need valve stem seals, which may or may not be in a head gasket set, Valve grind gasket set would be the kit to get if you know you will get the valves done...
(valve grind gasket set = head gasket set plus valve stem seals set)
Read the parts list on the box though. Not all companies do the same things.
x2 on this.Originally Posted by ezone
Machine shop: Plan on a resurface at the minimum since it has been overheated, it is probably warped. The machine shop should check if it needs a valve job while they have it. If they do (a valve job), then you will need valve stem seals, which may or may not be in a head gasket set, Valve grind gasket set would be the kit to get if you know you will get the valves done...
(valve grind gasket set = head gasket set plus valve stem seals set)
Read the parts list on the box though. Not all companies do the same things.
I just redid an audi head gasket. I had the head resurfaced but not pressure tested. Turns out there was a small crack between valves and now the work needs to be redone.
Spend the extra money now instead of down the road when you have to repurchase all the one time use parts (head bolts and gasket).
Also ditch the copper spray, the head gasket's material will do the job without any copper goop getting into the motor.
