Rep Power: 0

I want my engine to be back to its stock performance level. I have 80,000 miles on it and I was thinking about getting a tune up kit. Anybody have any ideas or advice for me?

 
Rep Power: 811

www.auto-rx.com tuneup in a bottle
denso iridium spark plugs
oem or ngk plug wires
have the ignition timing checked afterwards
switch to 5w30 synthetic oil (redline or amsoil)
change the trans fluid, coolant, brake fluid, ps fluid
take apart the intake system parts and clean them (throttle body, idle valves, etc)
get new 4 gauge ground wires to replace stock ones
get a new honda gas cap, radiator cap, and maybe oil cap
new honda or denso/ntk oxygen sensors
clean or replace EGR valve if equipped
clean PCV valve or replace with new
have a 'valve clearance' adjustment done
new air filter (napa gold is nice)
replace thermostat with honda part if engine takes too long to warm up
new battery honda brand or interstate group51
clean and grease battery clamps or replace if loose
tighten starter and alternator power cables gently if loose
at 90k miles, new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, crank pulley, and acc belts
any other misc seals if they are leaking

 
Rep Power: 217

Couldn't have said it better myself, GB. If you wanna go for synthetic tranny fluid, go with Redline. I absolutely love it. I may be in the category of people who notice a drastic change though because it gets cold here and that's when that stuff really shines. I would add a new fuel filter to that list as well. A pretty quick and easy job since the filter is right there next to the battery.

 
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thanks. That helps a lot.


I am a honda fan have been since I was in high school. Now I'm 30 and finally have my "dream" car, cause I deamed of having one way back when. Now I have it and I plan on adding some bolt ons; headers, intake, exhaust, maybe the intake manifold, but first I want it to sound like new. I was planning on going with AEM V2 intake DC headers and a Skunk2 exhaust any one have those and can vouch for their performance or have a better product?

 
Rep Power: 211

V2 is pretty cool. It's loud as heck but not very functional power wise. If you're looking for power get a AEM CAI, since both V2 and SRI's will reduce horsepower as the car warms up. I personally abhor skunk2 products; if you're looking for a sweet sounding exhaust go with the Apexi WS2 (sound clips are all over youtube). DC headers are good if you plan on keeping the motor stock, but make sure you get them ceramic coated otherwise if you just leave them stainless steel they'll more than likely crack if any kind of water touches it when it's hot. Upgrading the intake manifold is a waste on a stock engine.

 
Rep Power: 285

DC headers are alright, but a b16 is an engine that really responds to bolt ons.

I would recommend a hytech of toda header, even a replica of one over a set of DCs.

 
Rep Power: 811

i would do some research on boltons for that car. i know import tuner did quite a few dyno tests with different brands. the engine you have is a tuners dream, so many parts you could do it just depends on money and time. the car already has 140whp so you have a good start. you could skip the boltons and go straight to supercharger if you want a quick and easy 225+whp.

 
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awesome feedback guys. I will look into it. I want to keep it NA but I still want to get into the 200-220whp mark. Any thoughts? And where is the best and least expensive place to get the parts?

 
Rep Power: 285

Hitting 220whp n/a is tough unless you use nitrous, which gets expensive quick.

You'd need very aggressive cams, engine management, dyno tuning. A more conservative engine and therefore reliable option would be a supercharger, and you'd still have a nice even power band.

 
Rep Power: 211

The B16 platform is a bit tricky with the whole N/A thing. The GSR motors tend to be more geared for that since they come with higher compression stock (not by much, but enough.. plus they come with an extra 20-30whp). The rod/strike ratio of the B16 is nearly perfect (It's 1.X, I don't remember exactly) which is fantastic for boosting. However if you're still set on the N/A route (which isn't a bad one), here are some links of guys builds who made over 200whp N/A. You'll notice that these guys use GSR blocks, but they're essentially identical to the B16. Plus the horsepower is in the head anyway, not the engine block.

http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/2010/1...a-202whp140tq/
http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/2010/1...d-205whp141tq/
http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/2010/1...d-211whp137tq/

 
Rep Power: 811

the only problem with NA on a civic engine is usually you will have lots of hp and little torque. great for racing up to redline, not great for daily driving.

 
Rep Power: 211

Yeah, good point but if you're just looking at a stage 1 cam with bolt-ons for what you pay it's not a bad deal compared to the price of boosting. Going crazy on a N/A build on a civic runs into diminishing returns really quickly, as the amount of money invested exponentially increases.

 
Rep Power: 285

My buddy has a b16 with a gsr intake cam and a GOOD i/h/e tuned on s300 made 180whp.

I'm not sure if stage 1 would be aggressive enough for 220whp.

 
Rep Power: 211

Probably not, but a stage 2 cam wouldn't give you the extra power justify spending $900 on head work to make it function (again the idea of diminishing returns).

 
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Ok so let's say I went with the Edelbrach turbo( runs around 7lbs of pressure but good as an everyday driver) and my boltons maybe a stage 2 cam would I be putting my block at risk or should I just do a K20 swap and be happy as a freakin clam and maybe squeeze into the 300 whp range. I'm really wondering what is going to make me happy with the car. Ive had it for 4 years and I love it stock, but I really want to through the smack down on a few tards in Nor Cal that think their fast.

 
Rep Power: 285

Do you want a k20 swap making 200-220whp or a 300whp n/a k series?

300whp on a k isn't *that* difficult, but it's not cheap.

 
Rep Power: 811

i dont think just a k20 swap will make you very happy. it has the same torque curve (up to around 4.5k rpms) as your b series. so unless you rev past that all the time, you would not notice much difference. i think supercharged b series will make you happy as a clam to be honest and is also the cheapest and most reliable option for more real power.