Rep Power: 0

Thanks for reading, now heres the backround...
I bought a 2000 Si with a locked motor a couple weeks ago cheap. Tore into it and found that the intake cam was siezed from oil starvation on the timing side. I pulled the engine/tranny and tore it all down.
The cam journal needs repair (or head replaced) and there were a few scratches in Cyl#2. other than that everything looks good, to my knowledge at least, which is minimal.
So now its time to rebuild and I need some advice or tips so I don't mess this thing up! Here is what I am thinking, please feel free to critisize or provide better ideas. Oh and im trying to keep my investment minimal for now so I figure I will have around $2000 into it, Im sure it will cost more though.

Bore and home block to 81.5
complete rebuild gasket set
stock rods and crank
new PR3 81.5 pistons (JDM if possible for higher CR)
dual valve springs, titanium retainers
flat face valves (for higher CR)
stock cams (for now, i will upgrade later)
possible port of head (if i can get it done cheap enough)
Blox intake manifold
Blox 68mm throttle body
short ram intake
4-1 header
12lb flywheel
stage 2 clutch
new motor mount bushings

I am not sure what else I should do while I have it all apart?
Please let me know if thats a decent setup, what I could do differently or suggest certain brands of parts I have listed.
Any and all feedback is appreciated.
Thanks

 
Rep Power: 214

Sounds like you got bout everything there. You will need new head studs to though and maybe some new crank and rod bearings to make everything nice and smooth.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks
I will most likely go with ARPs for the head bolts, but I am not sure if the rod and crank bolts need to be replaced also? I may at least get new OEM ones just to be safe while I am in there.

Crank and rod bearings are definitely on the list as well.

Also, I am not sure if I need to replace the valve guides if I put new valves in? If thats the case I may just go with the valves that are in it and just upgrade the springs and retainers (as long as the clearance is still good with them, the engine had 147K on it).

 
Rep Power: 214

The rod and crank bolts should be fine. The usual thing that always needs to be replace if taking the head off the block is the head studs cause they are torque to yield. You might need to replace the valve guides just depends on there condition.

 
Rep Power: 208

I would get arp hardware for the head, rod and crank bolts. Don't waste your money porting those heads they already flow very well. You will probably hurt performance if you port them. Everything else looks very nice.