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My Contact info, along with the technician working on my car, is towards the bottom of this thread. I have incuded both our emails and phone numbers. Please contact if you have any advice, questions, or need more information. Thanks

I have a 2001 Civic Ex Sedan. There are five main problems: power door locks do not work; power windows do not work and none of the four are getting voltage at the fuse box; turn signal switch doesn't work, nor do they light up on the dash; wiper switch only works on medium and high, and does not squirt out any fluid; cruise control doesn't work. Also, inside the fuse block under the dash, some wires in the block have voltage when they shouldn't and others don't have voltage when they should. There is also a relay under the passenger's side dash making a clicking sound when you hit the door lock/unlock button, or manually push down the driver's side door lock (when it works it is a safety feature, when it is manually pressed down, it locks all the doors in the car).

I had a Compustar 5000 series remote start and alarm installed by an authorized compustar dealer. The next day, I went to adjust the shock sensor to a higher level, and on the following day (2 days after the alarm was installed), some problems started happening...

(I do not believe these problems have anything to do with the compustar install, and the only reason for listing the install is I'm trying to detail out exactly what happened and what aftermarket electronics I have on my car. The technician who did the install has not only been doing car electrical for 20 years, but is also extremely competent, has gone above and beyond what anyone in his position should be expected to, and has been a great friend through all of this. More likely than not, it is pure coincidence that these problems began soon after the install.)

I first noticed my remote wasn't unlocking my door locks, then I realized the power locks in the car weren't working as well; the door lock fuse wasn't blown. Gradually over the next month other things malfunctioned. It started off with my turn signals and parking lights after the door locks. The driver's side parking light would come on when I'd hit the arm/disarm button, but not the passenger side. Then when the headlights were on, the passenger's side parking light would come on, but not the driver's side.

If I pushed down the manual door lock (the rectangle manual push/push lock by the window) on the driver's side then my turn signals would stop working, my cruise control would go out, none of my four power windows would roll up or down, my wipers wouldn't work on delay, nor would they squirt out washer fluid. In order to get them working again, I'd have to turn the car completely off, remove the key completely from the ignition, and wait 10 seconds and turn it back on again (if I didn't remove the key, majority of the time, even if the car was left off for 10 seconds, none of the stuff would work).

There was also a freak problem that happened with the PDX 4.150. It may have nothing to do with anything, but I figured I'd mention it nonetheless. I had unhooked the main 0 gauge power from the distribution block to move the amps. When I went to hook up the 0 gauge power to the distribution block, it sparked bright blue, as usual; however the PDX 4.150 started pouring out smoke. I immediately removed the 0 gauge power from the distribution block and left it out, until I had removed the 4.150 from my car. None of the fuses on the amp had been blown, and has since been replaced by Alpine as defective under warranty. After removing the 4.150, I hooked the 0 gauge power back up to the distribution block, it sparked again as usual, and the other amps worked fine. Alpine had no clue what could have went wrong with the amp.

The technician currently working on my car is Jon. Please feel free to contact him for more in-depth knowledge as to what he's done diagnosticaly. His email is jon@raxxllc.com and the shop's phone # is (608) 754-6945. My name is James and my email is j.w.monroe@hotmail.com and my cell is (847) 302-8802

I do know he has went through individual wires wire by wire and tested continuity, he has tested numerous relays, pins on the harnesses, and all 5 different switches.

I do have additional aftermarket electronics hooked up:

- Alipine IVA-W505 Head Unit
- Alpine NVE-P1 Navigation
- Alpine PDX 1.1000 Amp (2)
- Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp
- Alpine SWX-143D Subs (2)
- Alipine SPX-17PRO (2 Sets)
- PAC 7 Trigger (for the headunit, to enable video playback while car is
moving), spliced into headunit 12v wire for power
- S7 speedometer cluster, spliced into factory cigarette lighter for power.
- Stinger 15 Farad Capacitor
- Singer SHD841 Midi Fused Distribution Block
- Stinger SP2150 (Main Battery)
- Power Bastards Fitzall 220+ Alternator
- 0 Gauge power ran from alternator to battery, 0 Gauge ground ran from
battery to car frame, 0 gauge power ran from battery to capacitor, 0 gauge
ground ran from capacitor to frame, 0 gauge power ran from capactior to
midi fused distribution block (4 fuses @ 175amps), 4 gauge power ran from
distribution block to amps, 4 gauge ground ran from amps to car frame

Thank you for taking the time to read this and/or contact us,

James

 
Rep Power: 308

My 1st thoughts are a problem with the "multiplex" very common on early 7th gens.

Edit: List Added

 
Rep Power: 389

^ I concur. Check this out: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...trol-unit.html

 
Rep Power: 228

The problem was associated with installation of the alarm system. Pull it out and return the wiring to stock and then go from there. Also consider the many other electrical system mods on the car as they too may contribute to the problems.

 
Rep Power: 308

I have to admit there is a lot going on without a doubt.

IMO, if they wired something up incorrectly it would show up instantly after the install (never say never)

There are some strange things listed that don't really add up like the alternately working lights and the turn signals are tough to explain for sure.

The multiplex failures seem more common in the early years of 7th gen production

 
Rep Power: 228

I think many of the problems cannot be easily linked to the multiplex control unit. It certainly may contribute to some, but I think it's a mistake to ignore the alarm and the MANY other electrical mods done to the car.

 
Rep Power: 389

^ yep, there are just way too much electrical stuff done. You spliced everything and probably made an error. Thats why a lot of people fork out the money for a harness for this or that instead of hacking into the stock wiring.

While your issues seem to point to the multiplex on one had, on the other... I dont see why you (the OP) can dismiss the alarm install as the problem. When you push the button on the remote, weird stuff happens... that spells alarm problem.

I would disconnect all your stereo stuff- subs, amps, grounds, and headunit. If that doesnt solve it, check the wiring you spliced in-- did you really do it correct? If that all pans out, I think you should disconnect your alarm- pull the power to it and see if stuff goes back to normal. If not... start checking all the wires its connected to... those things are pretty complex.

 
Rep Power: 812

i hate those tap splices cause they dont give a reliable connection and can come apart over time. may want to recheck everything and see that the wires are actually connected!