The V-AFC DIY
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THE WOP
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The V-AFC DIY
ok here we go i got this done by reading 2 longwinded posts that were right and wrong and it took me 4 hours and worked right away. NO check engine light and a VTEC kick like nitrous!!!!
For Pics Go to My VAFC DIY Site
1) Buy DIODE from Radio Shack (its a three pack of 2.5 amp 1,000 volt Diodes for like $1.78 )/ Disconect battery/ take out glove box and bottom cover at feet/ pull carpet back a lil/ and CAREFULLY cut away Tape covering wires to expose them from the ECU. Take your time, you DON"T need to cut the wrong ones blindly. (its not hard just take your time)
2) Splice black and Brown wires from VAFC to Black Wire on ECU (Brown is closest to ECU they are about an inch apart) [Ground wire]
3)Gray from VAFC splices to Red w/ Black stripe (at first cluster directly under the ground wire, hard to get to but it is there) [throttle wire]
4) Green from VAFC splices to Blue (NOT BABY BLUE) wire on top cluster of wires bottom row five slots up. [RPM wire]
5) Now take White and Yellow through Fire wall in passanger side. I put a small slice in the rubber cover and fished it through there. Connect them to the Throttlebody sensor Green w/Red Stripe. This is a small wire so cut in the middle and attatch the oprpriate plugs to each half. White connects to the sensor half and Yellow Connects to the half that looks like it is going to the engine, but really it is going back to the ECU. [Pressure Signal]
6) Feed Purple and pink wires from the VAFC through the firewall as before and connect them to the Blue wire under the resinator on a stock intake. It is usually covered by a blue heat wrap and is about 1 - 1.5 inches long. it is a single wire gray sensor. there is another close that has 2 wires that may confuse you. This is NOT it. It is a one wire sensor [VTEC Solenoid]
7) Now to connect the Diode. Cut the pink wire and attach the Diode between. The arrow on back of boxshows the up direction. you want the diode going AWAY from the ECU towards the VTEC solenoid ( --->] ) ] = flat line on Diode.
8) Splice the orange and Red Wires from the VAFC into the Yellow w/ Black Stripe wire at first cluster of wires. there are multiples of this wire at the ECU so go to the top third wire in the ECU. Connect orange closest to ECU and then Red After that farther away from ECU towards engine. Once again i have about an inch of room between them. there isn't much room in there. [IG Power]
9) Now cut the VTM wire. Yes CUT IT. This wire is in the second cluster of wires 2 over and 2 down. Blue w/ Black Stripe wire Connect connector to half connected to ECU (say that five times fast) and just leave the other end hangin. It is a dead wire now. Now connect Blue VTM wire from VAFC to this.
10) turn on car but DO NOT START (last position before engine turn on)
Go to 2:
Settings I set NARROW to 40.. and +5 and gradually increased it to 65.. (thats as high as it would go for me although others say 70..) and +12
WIDE is set to 40.. and +8 and 65.. and +20 [ these are low cam settings, i don't know what to do about the high cam settings yet but it works fine like this. I left High cam settings alone for now]
now to V/T Cont. H-L has to be set first. SOme say 4000 i did 3700. stays in VTEC longer so i never fall out in hard driving.
L-H i set to 4500 but others say 5200. I felt this was way to long and it felt like a nitrous boost to late. I found that around 4500 it is a perfect change over in the power band and your car just pulles you away without a sever jump in power. But don't worry you can hear it. [ play with these setting until you get it how you like it.
I left throttle as is 10% 50%
and i didn't touch V/T unmt, NE point or DEC
Under ETC. in main menu
set Sensor type to 6 in and 6 out and sensor type should be Pressure Flat.
Car select. select 4 Cyl and point the arrow NORTH EAST
the rest i didn't touch. but you can change the brightness.
TADAAAAAAAAH!!! turn on the car and Take her for a spin. You'll see.
BTW the book explains a lil about the settings and stuff Monitor is a way to display all your setting you want to read at once in many different display modes. 1 channel is one sensor display 2 channel is say throttle and RPMs, I have mine set a 4 channel displaying RPM, Throttle, Pressure, and VTo (shows when VAFC kicks in VTEC) for reference VTi shows when ECU kicks in VTEC. (Thanks Adam for the correction) VAFC VTEC is much more powerful.
This is the proper ECU diagram...First Pic on this post
any Questions?
MAD PROPS TO APHILLIPY for all his help. Couldn't have figured it out without him!!!
For Pics Go to My VAFC DIY Site
1) Buy DIODE from Radio Shack (its a three pack of 2.5 amp 1,000 volt Diodes for like $1.78 )/ Disconect battery/ take out glove box and bottom cover at feet/ pull carpet back a lil/ and CAREFULLY cut away Tape covering wires to expose them from the ECU. Take your time, you DON"T need to cut the wrong ones blindly. (its not hard just take your time)
2) Splice black and Brown wires from VAFC to Black Wire on ECU (Brown is closest to ECU they are about an inch apart) [Ground wire]
3)Gray from VAFC splices to Red w/ Black stripe (at first cluster directly under the ground wire, hard to get to but it is there) [throttle wire]
4) Green from VAFC splices to Blue (NOT BABY BLUE) wire on top cluster of wires bottom row five slots up. [RPM wire]
5) Now take White and Yellow through Fire wall in passanger side. I put a small slice in the rubber cover and fished it through there. Connect them to the Throttlebody sensor Green w/Red Stripe. This is a small wire so cut in the middle and attatch the oprpriate plugs to each half. White connects to the sensor half and Yellow Connects to the half that looks like it is going to the engine, but really it is going back to the ECU. [Pressure Signal]
6) Feed Purple and pink wires from the VAFC through the firewall as before and connect them to the Blue wire under the resinator on a stock intake. It is usually covered by a blue heat wrap and is about 1 - 1.5 inches long. it is a single wire gray sensor. there is another close that has 2 wires that may confuse you. This is NOT it. It is a one wire sensor [VTEC Solenoid]
7) Now to connect the Diode. Cut the pink wire and attach the Diode between. The arrow on back of boxshows the up direction. you want the diode going AWAY from the ECU towards the VTEC solenoid ( --->] ) ] = flat line on Diode.
8) Splice the orange and Red Wires from the VAFC into the Yellow w/ Black Stripe wire at first cluster of wires. there are multiples of this wire at the ECU so go to the top third wire in the ECU. Connect orange closest to ECU and then Red After that farther away from ECU towards engine. Once again i have about an inch of room between them. there isn't much room in there. [IG Power]
9) Now cut the VTM wire. Yes CUT IT. This wire is in the second cluster of wires 2 over and 2 down. Blue w/ Black Stripe wire Connect connector to half connected to ECU (say that five times fast) and just leave the other end hangin. It is a dead wire now. Now connect Blue VTM wire from VAFC to this.
10) turn on car but DO NOT START (last position before engine turn on)
Go to 2:
Settings I set NARROW to 40.. and +5 and gradually increased it to 65.. (thats as high as it would go for me although others say 70..) and +12
WIDE is set to 40.. and +8 and 65.. and +20 [ these are low cam settings, i don't know what to do about the high cam settings yet but it works fine like this. I left High cam settings alone for now]
now to V/T Cont. H-L has to be set first. SOme say 4000 i did 3700. stays in VTEC longer so i never fall out in hard driving.
L-H i set to 4500 but others say 5200. I felt this was way to long and it felt like a nitrous boost to late. I found that around 4500 it is a perfect change over in the power band and your car just pulles you away without a sever jump in power. But don't worry you can hear it. [ play with these setting until you get it how you like it.
I left throttle as is 10% 50%
and i didn't touch V/T unmt, NE point or DEC
Under ETC. in main menu
set Sensor type to 6 in and 6 out and sensor type should be Pressure Flat.
Car select. select 4 Cyl and point the arrow NORTH EAST
the rest i didn't touch. but you can change the brightness.
TADAAAAAAAAH!!! turn on the car and Take her for a spin. You'll see.
BTW the book explains a lil about the settings and stuff Monitor is a way to display all your setting you want to read at once in many different display modes. 1 channel is one sensor display 2 channel is say throttle and RPMs, I have mine set a 4 channel displaying RPM, Throttle, Pressure, and VTo (shows when VAFC kicks in VTEC) for reference VTi shows when ECU kicks in VTEC. (Thanks Adam for the correction) VAFC VTEC is much more powerful.
This is the proper ECU diagram...First Pic on this post
any Questions?
MAD PROPS TO APHILLIPY for all his help. Couldn't have figured it out without him!!!
Last edited by vincenzobar; Jun 15, 2003 at 11:26 PM.
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so whats a V-AFC gonna do for me...Ive researched nothing..someone elightnen me.
If i wanted a jet chip...should i not get the v-afc...or with the v-afc i can modifiy where vtec will kick in?
If i wanted a jet chip...should i not get the v-afc...or with the v-afc i can modifiy where vtec will kick in?
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THE WOP
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From: Germantown, Maryland, US
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yes it controlls your VTEC timing and throttle/fuel rations. without the VTEC you feel gains just from the other aspects of the VAFC. It is the koolest mod and the best gains for the price as off yet. But you should have a I/H/ E first for best results. BTW With a camshaft and Gear i read that about a 50hp gain will accur on a properly tuned VAFC!!!! wooppppppeeeeeeee who needs NOS?!?!
yes it controlls your VTEC timing and throttle/fuel rations. without the VTEC you feel gains just from the other aspects of the VAFC. It is the koolest mod and the best gains for the price as off yet. But you should have a I/H/ E first for best results. BTW With a camshaft and Gear i read that about a 50hp gain will accur on a properly tuned VAFC!!!! wooppppppeeeeeeee who needs NOS?!?!
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