Those familiar with MB Quart
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The LA Clipper
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Those familiar with MB Quart
I have been doing some stuff in my car and I need to reset the gain going to my quarts. Anyway, I am using 28 out of 35 as the point that i am looking for the start of distortion. So while I am setting it I get to a point where the fuse on the X-overs start to light up, but the speakers are not distorting. But I left it at the point where the fuses stats to glow, but I actually start to hear distortion at 31 (which is just about unbearably loud anywayz). My questions is, should I leave it set at 28 where the fuse glows...or should I set it at 28 where I start to hear minor distortion? your opinion?
Thanks [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Thanks [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 416 i think you made a typo at the end.. "28 where the fuse glows...or should I set it at 28 where I start to hear minor distortion" dont you mean "31 where I start to hear minor distortion"?
hehe anyways.. i think better safe then sorry, leave it at 28.. but hell what do i know..
hehe anyways.. i think better safe then sorry, leave it at 28.. but hell what do i know..
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Rep Power: 328 Dear god..........that message board is one big fire pit....flames everywhere. [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
Fonto: Set your gain to where you start hearing minor distortion at 28 on your HU. I went through the same thing with my PSD's, and I consulted the audio shop where I got the speakers about it. That light is the protection circuit for the tweeter, it's lighting up because of the high current you are sending to it. If you send too much, it will pop, and save the tweeter from blowing. It has nothing to do with distortion, I was running my crossover at -6.0 for the tweet (stupid mistake, i dont feel like going into detail), and because of having the tweets reduced so much at the xover, I had my gain for the tweeter cranked up so high, it was lighting up my whole trunk, and into the car through the gaps in the seats, simply because I was sending so much power. I put the little jumper back to 0.0 for the tweets, and now they dont light up nearly as much, because I was able to turn the gain down.
In otherwords, set it for distortion, not the point where it glows. A little glowing is good, that just means you are pushing the speaker. And if that fuse pops, just get replace it. (BTW, I am sending 250 watts rms per side to my PSD's...total of 500 RMS, and they are soooooo loud....just had to throw that in there. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] )
Fonto: Set your gain to where you start hearing minor distortion at 28 on your HU. I went through the same thing with my PSD's, and I consulted the audio shop where I got the speakers about it. That light is the protection circuit for the tweeter, it's lighting up because of the high current you are sending to it. If you send too much, it will pop, and save the tweeter from blowing. It has nothing to do with distortion, I was running my crossover at -6.0 for the tweet (stupid mistake, i dont feel like going into detail), and because of having the tweets reduced so much at the xover, I had my gain for the tweeter cranked up so high, it was lighting up my whole trunk, and into the car through the gaps in the seats, simply because I was sending so much power. I put the little jumper back to 0.0 for the tweets, and now they dont light up nearly as much, because I was able to turn the gain down.
In otherwords, set it for distortion, not the point where it glows. A little glowing is good, that just means you are pushing the speaker. And if that fuse pops, just get replace it. (BTW, I am sending 250 watts rms per side to my PSD's...total of 500 RMS, and they are soooooo loud....just had to throw that in there. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] )
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[hr]Originally posted by: Mystic3030
Dear god..........that message board is one big fire pit....flames everywhere. [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
Fonto: Set your gain to where you start hearing minor distortion at 28 on your HU. I went through the same thing with my PSD's, and I consulted the audio shop where I got the speakers about it. That light is the protection circuit for the tweeter, it's lighting up because of the high current you are sending to it. If you send too much, it will pop, and save the tweeter from blowing. It has nothing to do with distortion, I was running my crossover at -6.0 for the tweet (stupid mistake, i dont feel like going into detail), and because of having the tweets reduced so much at the xover, I had my gain for the tweeter cranked up so high, it was lighting up my whole trunk, and into the car through the gaps in the seats, simply because I was sending so much power. I put the little jumper back to 0.0 for the tweets, and now they dont light up nearly as much, because I was able to turn the gain down.
In otherwords, set it for distortion, not the point where it glows. A little glowing is good, that just means you are pushing the speaker. And if that fuse pops, just get replace it. (BTW, I am sending 250 watts rms per side to my PSD's...total of 500 RMS, and they are soooooo loud....just had to throw that in there. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] )[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Mystic3030
Dear god..........that message board is one big fire pit....flames everywhere. [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
Fonto: Set your gain to where you start hearing minor distortion at 28 on your HU. I went through the same thing with my PSD's, and I consulted the audio shop where I got the speakers about it. That light is the protection circuit for the tweeter, it's lighting up because of the high current you are sending to it. If you send too much, it will pop, and save the tweeter from blowing. It has nothing to do with distortion, I was running my crossover at -6.0 for the tweet (stupid mistake, i dont feel like going into detail), and because of having the tweets reduced so much at the xover, I had my gain for the tweeter cranked up so high, it was lighting up my whole trunk, and into the car through the gaps in the seats, simply because I was sending so much power. I put the little jumper back to 0.0 for the tweets, and now they dont light up nearly as much, because I was able to turn the gain down.
In otherwords, set it for distortion, not the point where it glows. A little glowing is good, that just means you are pushing the speaker. And if that fuse pops, just get replace it. (BTW, I am sending 250 watts rms per side to my PSD's...total of 500 RMS, and they are soooooo loud....just had to throw that in there. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] )[hr]
The amps bridge mode I guess was built for comps in the front and to have a bridged sub in the back. That is a bummer because my old Kenwood would not do this. At 31 it is so fu<kin loud that it is hard for me to really try and listen to see if they are distorting or not without feeling like I am about to lose my hearing![IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG] I have to turn my subs off in order to keep the fuse from blowing to adjust my fronts...but i am getting a new fuse ANL fuse holder soon...I just want everything to crap out at the same level, however it is really hard to tell if the subs are crappin out for me because honestly I don't think I can turn it that loud with the sound level or blowin a fuse...but I guess it is ok to have the gain a lil low on the subs if they hit so hard anyway. Anywayz [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 346 Mr. Navone also answered another really important question that i have always wondered about in one of his posts...why we always need to set the gain higher then what the pre-out voltage of our HU is 
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Rep Power: 0 I was reading an article in car audio and electronics on the mb quart qsd speakers, it was a review on the 4 inch qsd components (qsd 210's i believe) and the add on qsd 160 mid bass kit, they said in the article that the crossovers for the qsd's had what they compared towards being like a light bulb, for tweeter protection, the more power that was being sent to the tweeters, the more that was used to go through the "lightbulb like" fuse for portection, the more the "lightbulb" lit up, the less power would be going to the tweeter, therefor protecting it. Is this the same type of setup does anybody know? Because i have had the psc 213 mbquarts in my car, where the crossover lit up when i was playing the music loud, i would look at the crossover and make sure the light would not be tooooo bright, if it was too bright i would turn my treble control on my head unit down by one or two ( i have an eclipse 5303R).....but since then i now have the mb quart q speakers in my car, not the qsd, but the q, and the crossover does not have the "fuse" or "lightbulb" that light up......i wonder if the "lightbulb" they are referring to in the artile for the qsd's is similiar to that of the crossovers on the psc or psd 216, or 216...same difference. Does this post make sense? Anybody get my point...........I say just don't set the music to the point that the crossovers are glowing enough to light up your living room. But most important, forget about how much the crossover lights up, if the speakers are distorting then you are playing the cd player too loud/or you have the gains set too high, distortion first....then worry about the "glowing" because you can always reset your treble or even (on the mb quart crossovers) the setting that goes from 0 db down to -6 db's for the tweeter
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Rep Power: 328 Fonto: I assume you're bi-wired from your description? I am too, and I set the xover for the tweeter channel on Full Range, set the gain for the tweets till they started distorting, then I unplugged the tweets, set the mid channel at High Pass 100 Hz, and then adjusted the gain till I got distortion. I then plugged the tweets back in, and it was almost perfectly balanced I just backed the tweets off a little, it was too bright.....you dont have to set the gains to a matching point, mine are pretty far apart. Out of curiosity, whats your HP filter set at?
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[hr]Originally posted by: Tom1178
I was reading an article in car audio and electronics on the mb quart qsd speakers, it was a review on the 4 inch qsd components (qsd 210's i believe) and the add on qsd 160 mid bass kit, they said in the article that the crossovers for the qsd's had what they compared towards being like a light bulb, for tweeter protection, the more power that was being sent to the tweeters, the more that was used to go through the "lightbulb like" fuse for portection, the more the "lightbulb" lit up, the less power would be going to the tweeter, therefor protecting it. Is this the same type of setup does anybody know? Because i have had the psc 213 mbquarts in my car, where the crossover lit up when i was playing the music loud, i would look at the crossover and make sure the light would not be tooooo bright, if it was too bright i would turn my treble control on my head unit down by one or two ( i have an eclipse 5303R).....but since then i now have the mb quart q speakers in my car, not the qsd, but the q, and the crossover does not have the "fuse" or "lightbulb" that light up......i wonder if the "lightbulb" they are referring to in the artile for the qsd's is similiar to that of the crossovers on the psc or psd 216, or 216...same difference. Does this post make sense? Anybody get my point...........I say just don't set the music to the point that the crossovers are glowing enough to light up your living room. But most important, forget about how much the crossover lights up, if the speakers are distorting then you are playing the cd player too loud/or you have the gains set too high, distortion first....then worry about the "glowing" because you can always reset your treble or even (on the mb quart crossovers) the setting that goes from 0 db down to -6 db's for the tweeter[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Tom1178
I was reading an article in car audio and electronics on the mb quart qsd speakers, it was a review on the 4 inch qsd components (qsd 210's i believe) and the add on qsd 160 mid bass kit, they said in the article that the crossovers for the qsd's had what they compared towards being like a light bulb, for tweeter protection, the more power that was being sent to the tweeters, the more that was used to go through the "lightbulb like" fuse for portection, the more the "lightbulb" lit up, the less power would be going to the tweeter, therefor protecting it. Is this the same type of setup does anybody know? Because i have had the psc 213 mbquarts in my car, where the crossover lit up when i was playing the music loud, i would look at the crossover and make sure the light would not be tooooo bright, if it was too bright i would turn my treble control on my head unit down by one or two ( i have an eclipse 5303R).....but since then i now have the mb quart q speakers in my car, not the qsd, but the q, and the crossover does not have the "fuse" or "lightbulb" that light up......i wonder if the "lightbulb" they are referring to in the artile for the qsd's is similiar to that of the crossovers on the psc or psd 216, or 216...same difference. Does this post make sense? Anybody get my point...........I say just don't set the music to the point that the crossovers are glowing enough to light up your living room. But most important, forget about how much the crossover lights up, if the speakers are distorting then you are playing the cd player too loud/or you have the gains set too high, distortion first....then worry about the "glowing" because you can always reset your treble or even (on the mb quart crossovers) the setting that goes from 0 db down to -6 db's for the tweeter[hr]
Quote
[hr]Fonto: I assume you're bi-wired from your description? I am too, and I set the xover for the tweeter channel on Full Range, set the gain for the tweets till they started distorting, then I unplugged the tweets, set the mid channel at High Pass 100 Hz, and then adjusted the gain till I got distortion. I then plugged the tweets back in, and it was almost perfectly balanced I just backed the tweets off a little, it was too bright.....you dont have to set the gains to a matching point, mine are pretty far apart. Out of curiosity, whats your HP filter set at?[hr]
[hr]Fonto: I assume you're bi-wired from your description? I am too, and I set the xover for the tweeter channel on Full Range, set the gain for the tweets till they started distorting, then I unplugged the tweets, set the mid channel at High Pass 100 Hz, and then adjusted the gain till I got distortion. I then plugged the tweets back in, and it was almost perfectly balanced I just backed the tweets off a little, it was too bright.....you dont have to set the gains to a matching point, mine are pretty far apart. Out of curiosity, whats your HP filter set at?[hr]
Yeas, bi-wired they are [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] I have the subs LP at 80, mids HP at 80 (used to be 100, but when I turn off the subs to listen to music or just listen to talk radio it just doesn't sound lively enough...prolly because I only have speakers up front), and I have the highs at the highest setting that my HU has, HP at 220.
I set my gains exactly the same way, and the tweets can take a lot more then the mids. I have it a lil bright right now, but it is a tradeoff because i like how it makes the music seem higher. I used to keep the gain on the tweeters lower then the mids...but it sounds much better with the tweeter up [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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[hr]Originally posted by: Mystic3030
Fonto: You should set your HP at the lowest setting to get the fullest range of music...remember, a HP cuts off everything UNDER that frequency....[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Mystic3030
Fonto: You should set your HP at the lowest setting to get the fullest range of music...remember, a HP cuts off everything UNDER that frequency....[hr]
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Rep Power: 328 My "crossover" on my headunit is bypassed....it ****s with the sound quality.... I have my tweets set to full range on my amp. I'm letting the musicomps do whatever they want to with them. You should have a switch on your HU to defeat the built in x-over...thats how I got rid of mine on the HU. The speakers sound a lot better that way. And my preouts are sending a full range signal....i'm letting the amps process it...much cleaner that way. But if yours sound good man, thats all that matters. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 346 I'll give that a try and see how it sounds...to me though, it cuts down on the stress on the amp by limiting the range that it has to power before the crossover. If that makes any sense [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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[hr]Originally posted by: fonto
I'll give that a try and see how it sounds...to me though, it cuts down on the stress on the amp by limiting the range that it has to power before the crossover. If that makes any sense [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: fonto
I'll give that a try and see how it sounds...to me though, it cuts down on the stress on the amp by limiting the range that it has to power before the crossover. If that makes any sense [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG][hr]
i reccomend audiocontrol
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[hr]Originally posted by: LudlamTheory
thats why you get a REAL xover =)
i reccomend audiocontrol[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: LudlamTheory
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: fonto
I'll give that a try and see how it sounds...to me though, it cuts down on the stress on the amp by limiting the range that it has to power before the crossover. If that makes any sense [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: fonto
I'll give that a try and see how it sounds...to me though, it cuts down on the stress on the amp by limiting the range that it has to power before the crossover. If that makes any sense [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG][hr]
i reccomend audiocontrol[hr]
The only reason that I have it at 220hrtz is because the MusicComp is gonna cross it over at 2500 hrtz anywayz...just trying to save a lil extra exertion of power here...but I really don't think it even makes a difference regardless.
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