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if (hypatheticlly) i would go with 2 10W3V.2's, with the same setting, ported, id would expect it to be worse, am i wrong?

 
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im just going to give up

 
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the reason i am not replying is becasue i dont have the answers to the queston you ask. i think mo might not be answering for the same reasons, but i wont put words in his mouth persay....

here is my advice to you: you say you have a ingle 10w3v2, and are looking to upgrade. you have several options before you. what possibilities!

first thing is first. keep the woofer, or ditch it? upgrade may just be an SPL upgrade, all thats needed. i ran a single tempest for a very long time, and when i was ready to upgrade, it was jsut an SPL upgrade. now i have 2 [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] soon i will have three =D might be the same deal for you.

i can tell you that sealed they sound nuts. im sure you know that already. you ask abotu porting them? i have no clue, i cant say antying about it. but why take mine OR mos word for ANYTHING? try yourself! MDF costs $20 a sheet, 4'x8'. liq nails is 1.50 a tube, say you need 3 tubes. box of screws is $5. for $30, that gives you 2 boxes right there, for $30

spend that $30, and build 2 ported boxes. one purist, one db Monster. ported, of course. test both out. and when you test each out, test it in different positions, as well. fire up. back. forward. thats 6 combos right there, and thats not even side to side, or any way like that.

by the time you get through that, (of course in yoru sealed box play with positioning) you will have heard about 20 "different" installs, all involving your 10w3v2! if after that, you dont know if you like the SQ of it or not, and am not sure what kinda box you think it sounds best in, dont waste yoru money upgrading. youll never hear the difference [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

id bet my life that youll be D A M N well aware of whether you are ready for a woofer upgrade, or just a woofer QUANTITY upgrade after that. you will know whether you want to go sealed, or ported, and if ported, whether you want to port high or low, or whether you want to sell yoru v2 and just flat out go with a new woofer (I'll buy your 10w3v2 BTW if you sell it, assuming its a D2...)

when you test, be sure to play LOTS of music in EACH position, when i tested out a shiva i build for an s-10, we played msuic in it for 3 hours in my car. you dont have to play for 3 HOURS EACH position EACH box inyour car to get an idea of how its gonna sound, but you definitely want to play LOTS of music, and go through at least every style you have. you port those woofers, youll hear a definite difference between rap sealed and rap ported [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]. same with rock.

that $30 investment and a week of yoru time listening to music (two weekends, basically) you will come out an EXPERT on the 10w3v2. anyone in the future ever has a question about it, you will be on top of your game with stupid petty details they dont even CARE about, you will know so much about that woofer [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

but if you do this, and decide to stick with teh woofers, then you will KNOW beyond NAY doubt that your install is running at the peak of its possible performance, that none of your money is going to waste. and hey, what if you decide to go with something else? you will NEVER wonder "what if...." when you gt rid of yoru 10w3, cause youll have tested everything you can do with it, and have intimate knowledge of it.

also your general knowledge of caraudio wil greatly increase, too. you will become a better boxbuilder, will get more practice doing actual real construction work (as opposed to actual fake construction work?) you will start to understand better concepts like "boomy" and "transient response" "flat frequency response" all teh FUN stuff that makes caraudio caraudio.

plus, youll have two boxes that you can sell after you finish for a boatload more money than $15, and some spare cash, even if you sell them at $30 each is still $15 in yoru pocket you didnt have before [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

but thats just me.............

 
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first i was hoping for a response from mo, thats why i was getting frustrated.

second, you have a good point.

let me fill you in though. on wednesday, i went to tweeter, and asked them why it was happening, i told them that it was "clipping" and stuff like that, and that it might be from the stock HU, he agreed saying that even if i dont hear anything is wrong, there may be distortion in the bass that i cant hear, and that it is most likely the HU, so im going to get the HU unit i was gonna get later this winter, and try what you said. now, they did an install a few months back on a mustang w/ a 12W7, and i was fortunate enough to hear that, and i had pretty much made up my mind on a 10W7. however, im going to give my V2 a second chance because i realize im limiting it with the stock HU.

well, i may make observations and stuff, but i wont know be able to put term with sound, if i dont have someone to point it out to me.

thanks for your advice though, youve given me a better outlook

 
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Okay,

Now that I know what your real questions seems to be I'll give it a whack....Changing out the OEM HU is the biggest single improvement to be made in our cars. It very much could be the cause of your subs SQ or lack there of. the 10W3v2 is a really good woofer. A Single 10 isn't going to give you big SPL. But it will offer balanced music and give a bit of bump. Change your HU first and see how much an improvement happens. If the result is what you wanted your good. If it's still not enough. Use whiterabbits suggestion of trying different enclosures in different positions in your trunk. This can make a night and day difference in SPL and sound. in my car if I position my sub against the back seat facing forward It sounds awesome...if I position it against the rear of the trunk facing rear it hits noticably harder...but I lose alot of upper range bass.

My Buddy who's a certified installer and used to be a Rep for JL swears that the sub works it's best in .74 cubes sealed with the box half filled with packed fiberfill. a 10W7 would also be good, but why bother getting a top class sub when the rest of your system isn't all insanely expensive. Theat money would be better spent on an amp for your front components and a new Hu [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..

Give us some feedback here and we'll work with ya on it..

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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ok, just to remind you,

JL XR650-CS Front
300/2

No rear.

500/1 powering whatever sub(s) i go with

Kenwood KDC-X659
Kenwood KDC-CX89

 
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with the 500Wrms I would grab up a second 10W3V2 and play with a few different ported and sealed boxes.. Sealed is easy..make a big box 2.2cu.ft and fill it in with wood blocks to make it smaller untill you find what works best..also play with different amounts of Polyfill and such...Or.. sell the 10W3 and grab a 10W7 and put it in the "purist" Ported enclosure...the 10W7 ported setup will have better low end extension and a little more thump with kickdrums and such than the 2 W3's..but the 2 W3's in the proper sealed setup "should" have a more energetic upper bass sound...if there's a local shop that your on good terms with ask them to try a few setups in your car with things they have in the showroom..I'm sure they have a pair of 10W3v2's in a sealed box sitting on the showroom floor allready [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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wow.... after reading this whole thread I am veerrrry confused.