RyanHostetler

The passenger window stopped going down on my 2001 Civic 4-Door LX about a year and a half ago. Initially, I pulled the fuse, saw it was toast and replaced it. When I replaced the fuse, I then hit the passenger window button on the master switch and the fuse immediately went out again (I could hear or feel it). I did this a couple times and then realized that I didn't want to waste fuses. I abandoned the fix because I was super busy.

Just now, I put a new fuse in and used the passenger switch. The window went right down and back up. Can I rightfully assume that the problem is the master switch? Do I need to do further testing with a test light? I have not yet taken the driver door panel off because it's now dark outside.

Colin42

I would check the wires before replacing the switch

RyanHostetler

How do I go about checking the wires? Obviously, I can simply physically inspect them. Would I also use a test light? If so, where would I test? Coming out of the switch?

Thank you for your help!

Colin42

Yeah check to see if they're broken, usually at the point where they bend from the door opening and closing. And test continuity as well.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

......almost like an intermittent short, with the fuse instantly blowing.

Would not gamble on master switch, but they do have poor record.

RyanHostetler

New development: I just started the car and used the passenger switch to try to put the window down. The fuse blew. I'm not sure if it blew when the car started or when I hit the passenger switch. I'll have to investigate here in a bit. I will admit that I've never done this electrical stuff before, so I may need some more assistance, especially if wires need to be replaced.

RyanHostetler

Forgive my ignorance, but how do I get access to those parts of the wires? I'm looking at the passenger door (which I already have open) as an example. I see a tube on top of the wires and that tube feeds through another tube. Do I need to remove those and pull the wires through?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Next fuse, try using the passenger sides window switch to see if it will blow from that side as well.

Get one of the fuses that has the LED inside that lights when fuse is blown.... you can use that one for testing once it opens up.

Colin42

There's a rubber grommet where the wires exit the body, and then another one where they enter the door. pop the one off the body and then disconnect the connector. you'll have to unwrap the tape and peel back the boot to see the wires.

I removed the entire door harness from my car when I fixed the wires. I pulled it because I was 99% certain the wires were broken in mine. Click the link to see my broken wires.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...se-wiring.html

RyanHostetler

I'm pulling on the grommet, but it seems to have no end. I can't find said connector or expose the wires.

RyanHostetler

More puzzles: I just cut the grommet slightly so I could get it to pull out. I didn't ruin the integrity of it. (It was caught under another piece.) I fidgeted with the wires trying to find the connection you mentioned Colin42, but I could not find it. I slid the entire grommet inside the door looking and part of the grommet inside the body.

I then opted to put in the LED fuse and test the switches again. At first, the window went down and back up using the passenger switch. Now, it will only go down using the master switch and will only go back up using the passenger switch. ??? My next step, I guess, will be to use the test light on some of the connections. Any insight would be much appreciated!

RyanHostetler

I exposed the wires on the passenger side and I didn't find any shorts or breaks or anything that looked out of the ordinary.

I pulled the driver door panel and I was surprised to find that it had definitely been opened before. There was a screw missing and there was glue keeping the piece underneath the master switch on to the door panel itself. I checked the wires at the corner where the door closes and I also didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

I began to probe the wires coming out of the switches. I couldn't get any sort of response out of any of the wires while I pressed the passenger button on the master switch up and down. The same was the case on the passenger switch itself.

I then replaced the fuse. I now get three different wires coming out of the master switch to respond with full illumination of the light bulb. There are two wires either going into the passenger switch or coming out of it that get a response. Interestingly, they only illuminate partially, or not nearly as strongly as the ones coming out of the master switch.

Thoughts?

Can anyone provide a diagram or description that tells me which wires I should probe and what I should expect in a normal situation?

RyanHostetler

Alright, I know I'm being high maintenance here, but I have one last thing to report and I think it is telling and can prompt a diagnosis. I found the wire diagram and tested the wires coming out of the master switch. All wires light up the test light for their corresponding ups and downs with the exception of those going out to the passenger window. Also, when I test the passenger switch, all of the out wires light up dimly. The passenger switch won't move the window currently (although it did earlier). Fuses burn out seemingly randomly, although the last one went out when I hit the passenger down button on the master switch.

TWO QUESTIONS - IF THERE IS NO ELECTRICITY COMING OUT OF THE MASTER SWITCH FOR THE PASSENGER WINDOW, CAN I ASSUME THAT THE MASTER SWITCH IS BAD? ALSO, DO YOU THINK THE PASSENGER SWITCH IS ALSO BAD SINCE IT WON'T OPERATE THE WINDOW?

(If someone could reply to the above questions, it would really help me out and I would greatly appreciate it.)

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Do you get any smell from the master switch bottom side, or see any burnt marks ??

To me...... the single door switches (when at rest) carry through the voltage from the master switch to the motor, and provide there own voltage when operated.

You are going to have 2 different polarities feeding the motors depending on direction of window.

RyanHostetler

There is no smell I can discern (although I hardly have a sense of smell) and I saw no burn marks on the master switch when I took the bottom off.

I felt the same way about the way these switches operate. I figured that the passenger switch would work independently if the master does not. (It is puzzling to me though that the passenger switch, when probed, only shows a small amount of juice.) Because there is no electricity that I can discern coming out of the master switch in the direction of the passenger switch, I'm going to start by replacing the master switch and see what happens. I'm hoping the new switch will actually give an electrical signal to the window to put it down and solve the problem.

RyanHostetler

I replaced the master switch and the problem has been resolved! :-)

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for update.....seems to be a common theme with 7th gens.