Rep Power: 0

I've done a ton of googling, and it seems that while people can link all over for replacement bulbs, no one actually properly names the bulb type for the bases. I've been able to deduce after some time that the 7th gen gauge cluster bulbs (the main 10, and the 11th for Cruise Control) are all T5 wedge base #74 bulbs.

However... I haven't been able to get similar conventional naming for the 6 even smaller bulbs for Park/Reverse/Neutral/Drive/D2/D3. Seems they're a T3 base, but a specialty of sorts because you can't just replace the bulb, bulb and base are one piece. Anyone know the full conventional name for these?

 
Rep Power: 308

The #74s may fit but in a lot of cases the original bulbs are smaller. And sometimes they will break the holder due to size diff & heat.

Those plastic base neo-wedge assemblies are all over the dial due to all the different sizes and configurations.

I always just used OEM.

 
Rep Power: 0

Near as I can tell the only way I'd fit #74's is if I found a working wedge base, and even then it's iffy. The existing bulbs are shorter and smaller around, as well as built into the base. Guess I'll have to see who sells them for the least amount of blood.

 
Rep Power: 308

I'm talking about the sockets made for replaceable mini wedge base bulbs taking the #74 bulbs...... not neo-wedge assemblies.

 
Rep Power: 146

The illumination lights for the cluster are definitely #74 bulbs with a T5 base (which is redundant information, a #74, by definition has a T5 base).

NEVER seen this problem. Replaced all my backlights with generic 74s and they work great. Use the same base, just pull the old bulb out. Don't waste $5 per bulb on OEM.

You can get them cheap on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40pcs-T5-12V...5XGqCD&vxp=mtr

The PRND321 bulbs should be T3s, the A/C,Recirculate,Defroster bulbs are T3 and the ***** for air direction, air speed and temp are T4.

For the T4s and T3s....You CAN use the same base. It does seem that the bulb and base are together for the smaller bulbs but they can be pulled out. Just straighten the wires and pull the bulb out from the top. The tricky part is getting the new bulbs in. You may have to solder a very small wire on the original wires to get them through the original base. Take pictures of the original base/bulb so you know how to orient the wires.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oddly enough, I bought a pack of 10 Sylvania #74 bulbs, and they are indeed a bit fatter than the existing bulbs, and made the twist connectors bulge enough that I could not get them back into the gauge cluster. The LEDs I got work pretty good WRT light dispersion, but already 3 have begun to flicker. I got 20 for the few dollars I spent, I'll replace the 3 and see if I have much more flicker. If I do I'm just gonna call it a wash and use regular *** bulbs even though I really like how much brighter the LEDs are.