How would i go about relocating my head unit to under the dash where the cig. lighter is?
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How would i go about relocating my head unit to under the dash where the cig. lighter is?
How would i go about relocating the head unit to the bottom cause i think it would look alot beter. right where the cig lighter is. im not to good on molding or anything so as much help as i can get thanks. [IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 I have my eq mounted down there right now. Theres not a whole lot of room down there as far as depth go's , so you'll have to do some fiberglassing to make it look right I've seen a couple people around here do it and it sticks out pretty far.
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Rep Power: 0 Rabbit...gotta be careful witht hat though..alot of HU's will not play properly vertical. Most say specifically not to mount it at more than a 30 degree angle..
If the HU can be used Vertically it's all good.
As for mounting the HU there.. Fiberglassing is not necessary..just some good ole fashioned Ply wood and some plumber straps..the rest I'll leave to your imagination [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
If the HU can be used Vertically it's all good.
As for mounting the HU there.. Fiberglassing is not necessary..just some good ole fashioned Ply wood and some plumber straps..the rest I'll leave to your imagination [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 Yeah...when I asked my installer about first installing the cd player where rabbit has *to make more room in my dash area* he told me they will skip alot....have any problems rabbit? I think there was a DIY on either fiberglassing to make the cd player fit or cutting it out...might want to search. 
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Rep Power: 339 ive never had skiping problems. i can hit speedbumps pretty hard, even tho the deck is rated at that dont put it at 90 degrees stuff. works great!
heres a down and dirty DIY:
#1 pull center console out for panel removal. once that panel is out, you can cut your 1/4 inch ply to that shape.
#2 measure the holes for E-brake (be careful on this one) and for your deck. at this time, you can also cut holes for change trays and whatnot. for the deck itself, i chose to make my hole JUST smaller than the plastic clip that goes on teh outside of teh deck. that way, i can permanently attatch that plate to the panel and only teh faceplate will show above the hole.
#3 you cna make the boxes for the chage now (and put your center console back in) make sure they are not too deep, theres stuff down there! doesnt really matter how ugly it is, cause noone will see the underside, nor will ppl really see the inside of the boxes.
#4 sand the plate smooth. this includes rounding the edges to match the console piece, and to match teh front with teh shifter assembly. the final product will just sit on teh rails there.
#5 place the frame around teh faceplate in, put a couple of dots of glue to hold it in. this does not have to be a load bearing structure. then fill the gaps between that plastic piece and the wood using a filler.sand smooth.
#6 need to attach the deck somehow. I took (basically) two screws and fixed them to the bottom of teh panel, on either side of teh deck hole, lengthwise. I then cut a small rectangle to hold the deck backstrapping in, and drilled two holes in it at teh screw locations. I could then fix the deck in, and attach it to the panel using wingnuts and washers.
#7 you will want a form or fashion to fix teh panel down. I am going to epoxy a small block of wood to the frame under one of the change cups and drill a hole so i can screw it down that way. right now its just sitting there, and works reasonably well.
#8. the rest is aesthetics. my first attempt was to paint the sanded product. this worked, but soom cracks where teh filler was showed. I reccommend pouring resin over your finished surface, sanding super smooth, THEN painting. that way you get a better finish. Since my color scheme includes fibercarbon detailing, I chose to fiberglass over the panel with the fibercarbon. looks nice, i left it textured, but later grew bored of that and filled in teh weave. now its supersmooth, but i still need to polish it. pics later, i guess.
there you have it! deck relocated. you will need a set of RCA's that are 90 degree bent if you have my deck, as there is almost NO room below. one way around this is to build up the deck install location so you cna put teh deck higher. thats an option. im sure there are other creative ways too. presto! deck relocated, and one big hole in your dash (stock deck maybe, to also have cassette playing capacity? ;p) or a TV, or like me, gauges....
heres a down and dirty DIY:
#1 pull center console out for panel removal. once that panel is out, you can cut your 1/4 inch ply to that shape.
#2 measure the holes for E-brake (be careful on this one) and for your deck. at this time, you can also cut holes for change trays and whatnot. for the deck itself, i chose to make my hole JUST smaller than the plastic clip that goes on teh outside of teh deck. that way, i can permanently attatch that plate to the panel and only teh faceplate will show above the hole.
#3 you cna make the boxes for the chage now (and put your center console back in) make sure they are not too deep, theres stuff down there! doesnt really matter how ugly it is, cause noone will see the underside, nor will ppl really see the inside of the boxes.
#4 sand the plate smooth. this includes rounding the edges to match the console piece, and to match teh front with teh shifter assembly. the final product will just sit on teh rails there.
#5 place the frame around teh faceplate in, put a couple of dots of glue to hold it in. this does not have to be a load bearing structure. then fill the gaps between that plastic piece and the wood using a filler.sand smooth.
#6 need to attach the deck somehow. I took (basically) two screws and fixed them to the bottom of teh panel, on either side of teh deck hole, lengthwise. I then cut a small rectangle to hold the deck backstrapping in, and drilled two holes in it at teh screw locations. I could then fix the deck in, and attach it to the panel using wingnuts and washers.
#7 you will want a form or fashion to fix teh panel down. I am going to epoxy a small block of wood to the frame under one of the change cups and drill a hole so i can screw it down that way. right now its just sitting there, and works reasonably well.
#8. the rest is aesthetics. my first attempt was to paint the sanded product. this worked, but soom cracks where teh filler was showed. I reccommend pouring resin over your finished surface, sanding super smooth, THEN painting. that way you get a better finish. Since my color scheme includes fibercarbon detailing, I chose to fiberglass over the panel with the fibercarbon. looks nice, i left it textured, but later grew bored of that and filled in teh weave. now its supersmooth, but i still need to polish it. pics later, i guess.
there you have it! deck relocated. you will need a set of RCA's that are 90 degree bent if you have my deck, as there is almost NO room below. one way around this is to build up the deck install location so you cna put teh deck higher. thats an option. im sure there are other creative ways too. presto! deck relocated, and one big hole in your dash (stock deck maybe, to also have cassette playing capacity? ;p) or a TV, or like me, gauges....
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