Wiring......
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Wiring......
Hey guys I am getting ready to finnaly upgrade my factory system.......I have the Metra install kit and wiring harness. I have a Clarion DXZ825 HU. Also I have two amps: US Acoustics 1000D 1250w sub amp and US Acoustics 4065 320w 4ch amp and a Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad cap. I was wondering if it is ok to run the remote turn leads from the HU to all three components??? Also I have Infinity Reference 605cs components 270w peak - 2-90w RMS and Alpine SPR-694A 6x9 8-50w RMS - 120w peak. I was wondering what is a suitable gauge wire or if I can just use the existing factory wiring. These speakers will be run to the 4ch amp. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks....
Tim
Tim
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Rep Power: 0 Three amps, yes!! Four, no! Three is about the max. I would recommend using a SPDT Relay from Radio Shack. Ask them how to hook it up, or email me and I'll tell ya. Just to be on the safe side. Trust me, you can burn out your remote lead circuit. I know tons of losers who have hooked up neons to the remote turn on and blown the circuit. It will only cost you $5 to get the relay, and you can hook up as many things as you want to turn on when the radio comes on without damaging the radio.
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Rep Power: 337 the rule of thumb on teh audio forum is two devices max. I say try it, if it works, then why bother? if not, or you have cutting problems, or you wory too much liek the rest of us [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] then get a relay. all you need is a SPST (single pole, single throw) relay, but most automotive relays come SPDT (DOUBLE throw) the basic procedure goes liek this:
you have two circuits on a relay. the switching circuit, and teh switch. you want it so the remote turns on teh switch, and the switch powers the remote on teh amps. if you look at teh diagram of the relay (you can get a RS or kragens, anywhere) you will see something that looks like a box with wire wrapped around it (a picture of this) this is the switching mechanism, basically an electromagnet. you hook your remote to one lead, and ground the other. doesnt matter which side. you will know you have done this correctly when if you turn on your deck, the relay makes a clicking noise, and when you turn the deck off there is another clicking noise (there may be a small delay, no more than a second or two tho)
now we move to the amps themselves. on the relay picture, you will see three paralell lines, the outer two have triangles pointing in. the center line will be touching one of the triangles. this is the switch itself. think of it like a railroad switch. you can go left, or right, but teh center will always conduct. what teh remote turn on needs is a +12 volt source, like from your D block. this you wire to that center lead, the one that will always run current to one of teh other two leads. (hook +12 to the center line) now you need to figure out which to attach the remote on the amps to. with the deck off, run teh wire to teh relay from teh amps. if you have done everything correctly so far, you will notice that when touching one lead, teh amp will turn on, and one lead, the amp will remain off. if you turn the deck on, the reverse should happen. you hook the remote to whatever lead turns the amp on while teh deck is on (duh =p)
from the relay, you can wire as many devices as you want up to teh rating of the relay (usually 40 amps) this includes neons, strobes, caps, servos, ANYTHING you want to turn on with teh system (or turn off with the system) lemme know f there is still any confusion
you have two circuits on a relay. the switching circuit, and teh switch. you want it so the remote turns on teh switch, and the switch powers the remote on teh amps. if you look at teh diagram of the relay (you can get a RS or kragens, anywhere) you will see something that looks like a box with wire wrapped around it (a picture of this) this is the switching mechanism, basically an electromagnet. you hook your remote to one lead, and ground the other. doesnt matter which side. you will know you have done this correctly when if you turn on your deck, the relay makes a clicking noise, and when you turn the deck off there is another clicking noise (there may be a small delay, no more than a second or two tho)
now we move to the amps themselves. on the relay picture, you will see three paralell lines, the outer two have triangles pointing in. the center line will be touching one of the triangles. this is the switch itself. think of it like a railroad switch. you can go left, or right, but teh center will always conduct. what teh remote turn on needs is a +12 volt source, like from your D block. this you wire to that center lead, the one that will always run current to one of teh other two leads. (hook +12 to the center line) now you need to figure out which to attach the remote on the amps to. with the deck off, run teh wire to teh relay from teh amps. if you have done everything correctly so far, you will notice that when touching one lead, teh amp will turn on, and one lead, the amp will remain off. if you turn the deck on, the reverse should happen. you hook the remote to whatever lead turns the amp on while teh deck is on (duh =p)
from the relay, you can wire as many devices as you want up to teh rating of the relay (usually 40 amps) this includes neons, strobes, caps, servos, ANYTHING you want to turn on with teh system (or turn off with the system) lemme know f there is still any confusion
