What your electrical system can take
03-21-2002
#31
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 
a yeah..
Also I checked up on this on rec.audio.car the Duty cycle for music like jazz, Soft rock, oldies is 10-20% for Rap, Hip hop, Most heavy metal where there is much louder and more constant sounds it's about 33% give or take.. BASS CD's run about a 45% Duty cycle <--new word)..
Also I checked up on this on rec.audio.car the Duty cycle for music like jazz, Soft rock, oldies is 10-20% for Rap, Hip hop, Most heavy metal where there is much louder and more constant sounds it's about 33% give or take.. BASS CD's run about a 45% Duty cycle <--new word)..
03-21-2002
#32
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 some how if richard clark says that teh duty cycle for music is 10-20%, it seems to me that that would be for heavy bass music (tho i doundt doubt it would be less for jazz, that hardly uses any of my sub at all [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG])
and inductance as a resistance is quite different than resistance in itself. resistance to waterflow is based soley on pipe size (or electrons in a wire) but inductive resistance actually increases as current increases! (the harder you push, the harder it pushes back) makes sense, thats why the more power you get from an alternator, the more power you have ot put in it to make it turn! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
I got some more good stuff for ya, one of teh big boys on CAF more or less says we are arguing different things on the same concept, but as I have a lab report to finish right now (I thought it was supposed ot be finished four weeks ago? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]:frown[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] you'll just have to wait till seven-ish before i can get back on here [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]
reactive inductance was sarcastic, but could i get a link for that 45% duty cycle? rec.audio.car is responsible for all teh basic caraudio knowledge i have! but its been a few months since iv been on the site, i dont think that information would be on the setion i read (actually, i didnt know thre was anything else than what i read.....)
and inductance as a resistance is quite different than resistance in itself. resistance to waterflow is based soley on pipe size (or electrons in a wire) but inductive resistance actually increases as current increases! (the harder you push, the harder it pushes back) makes sense, thats why the more power you get from an alternator, the more power you have ot put in it to make it turn! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
I got some more good stuff for ya, one of teh big boys on CAF more or less says we are arguing different things on the same concept, but as I have a lab report to finish right now (I thought it was supposed ot be finished four weeks ago? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]:frown[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] you'll just have to wait till seven-ish before i can get back on here [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]
reactive inductance was sarcastic, but could i get a link for that 45% duty cycle? rec.audio.car is responsible for all teh basic caraudio knowledge i have! but its been a few months since iv been on the site, i dont think that information would be on the setion i read (actually, i didnt know thre was anything else than what i read.....)
03-21-2002
#33
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 ther Bass CD's at 45% Duty sysclem is very realistic through common sense..
Most bass CD's will play louder than Actual test tones..most bass CD's have bass going more than 50% of the time.. but not all that much midrange sound.. I said up to 45%..
the reactive inductance is the load on the voice coils.. at certain frequencies the impedance to move the cone differs greatly..that's what that is.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
From testing (which I'll do more of tomorrow while I'm off work) I'll hook up a few miltimeters, pop in a bass CD and monitor my current draw and volage and see what I come up with.
Cheers
Most bass CD's will play louder than Actual test tones..most bass CD's have bass going more than 50% of the time.. but not all that much midrange sound.. I said up to 45%..
the reactive inductance is the load on the voice coils.. at certain frequencies the impedance to move the cone differs greatly..that's what that is.[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
From testing (which I'll do more of tomorrow while I'm off work) I'll hook up a few miltimeters, pop in a bass CD and monitor my current draw and volage and see what I come up with.
Cheers
03-21-2002
#34
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 << Most bass CD's will play louder than Actual test tones >>
sorry, thats just BS, you should know that!
maybe you should tell me why this is false?
and anything that carries a current carries an inductive reactance, just like everything that carries a current has a resistance......
"if i can see far, it is only because i stand on the shoulders of giants" youll read that soon enuff ;p
03-21-2002
#35
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 Inductive resistance is caused by heat build in wire..the wire gets warmer resistance increases but that's such a negligable factor that it's pointless to to argue..unless your using 8 guage wire for a 1000 watt amp ..
As for the Bass CD playing louder than test tones this in fact is true.. which is why for Tripple point DB Drag events they require you to use their CD's where as at single point events you can use your own.. this to even out the playing field because some tracks are recorded at a higher sensitivity (will play louder at same volume level on a HU)..
Ask Tom Nousaine about this one... he always gets 1-3 DB's more on all his subwoofers tests using 976 Bass from a bass CD thean when he runs sine waves through it..
Things that make you go HMMMM ..
As for the Bass CD playing louder than test tones this in fact is true.. which is why for Tripple point DB Drag events they require you to use their CD's where as at single point events you can use your own.. this to even out the playing field because some tracks are recorded at a higher sensitivity (will play louder at same volume level on a HU)..
Ask Tom Nousaine about this one... he always gets 1-3 DB's more on all his subwoofers tests using 976 Bass from a bass CD thean when he runs sine waves through it..
Things that make you go HMMMM ..
03-21-2002
#36
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 this must be why everyone who competes everywhere uses sin waves. cause one person can get higher SPL levels playing music. there is no way that bass farts get you less SPL than playing tones for an extended time, unless you are talking about a deathmatch or something.
an SPL burp simply causes a spike on the meter, you cant really beat that.......
so tell me.....what do YOU use for competition?
as far as using a bigger wave, thats like saying a line driver to boost voltage will ALWAYS boost SPL, your amp has limits to how far you can push it before it clips, no matter how big or small teh wave is, no matter how big or small the input voltage is. (key word is ALWAYS, which is why saying that statement is false) fun to play with an osciliscope!
an SPL burp simply causes a spike on the meter, you cant really beat that.......
so tell me.....what do YOU use for competition?
as far as using a bigger wave, thats like saying a line driver to boost voltage will ALWAYS boost SPL, your amp has limits to how far you can push it before it clips, no matter how big or small teh wave is, no matter how big or small the input voltage is. (key word is ALWAYS, which is why saying that statement is false) fun to play with an osciliscope!
03-21-2002
#37
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 as to the reply I got from a very knowlegable source, I was informed that A/C is belt driven (I got an HX, never had a car with A/C, and I dont need it) said he would "be surprised if the whole A/C system drew more than 10-15 amps TOTAL!"
"And yes, IF total current draw was 85 amps and IF your alternator was putting out 75 amps, the battery would be slowly discharging.. but only when the stereo was on.. it WILL charge quickly after volume levels are reduced or the current demand is reduced."
and of course, from our "lessons" with Richard Clark, we have learned that a battery stores a FANTASTIC charge, would take a long time to discharge a battery if you had a surplus demand of only 5 amps.... (If you are using a yellowtop, anyways)
and of course, IF you buy an alternator, you have to make sure it puts out power when its needed! if your 473920489023 amp alternator puts out power at 6000 RPM's, and 40 amps at 2000 RPM's, its not gonna do you too much good in the lanes, much less on the road. (of course, in the lanes you will ALWAYS be running on battery power....)
IF the alternator cant keep up with the draw, then it WILL take its current from the battery, and IF that load drops to where the alternator can pick back up, then it will run teh system AND recharge the battery as well.....
"And some people run extra batteries close-coupled near their amps... depending on listening habits or the intent of the stereo's usage (like an electrical pump's "duty cycle".. what percentage of time are you listening to it?), this can help..
Large capacitors close-coupled with the amp can help too..
No they don't help the amp make more power..
But they are like little electrical shock absorbers, for instantaneous hits like kick drums, they do the trick...
For long drawn out bass-CD type stuff, well, needless to say there will be some battery draw!"
I honestly dont know what either one of us is trying to prove anymore. He told me we were both right [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
Does this mean that if you play music that draws more current than the alternator can support more htan 50% of teh time you WILL slowly discharge the battery? yes. does this mean that if you are a person who does this, that you NEED to go out an purchase an alternator, or be doomed to completely drain your battery often? no. it is a fact, that many people have run high draw systems in a car with stock alternators and been fine. it is not a neccesary purchase (unless that light dimming really does bug you [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG])
"And yes, IF total current draw was 85 amps and IF your alternator was putting out 75 amps, the battery would be slowly discharging.. but only when the stereo was on.. it WILL charge quickly after volume levels are reduced or the current demand is reduced."
and of course, from our "lessons" with Richard Clark, we have learned that a battery stores a FANTASTIC charge, would take a long time to discharge a battery if you had a surplus demand of only 5 amps.... (If you are using a yellowtop, anyways)
and of course, IF you buy an alternator, you have to make sure it puts out power when its needed! if your 473920489023 amp alternator puts out power at 6000 RPM's, and 40 amps at 2000 RPM's, its not gonna do you too much good in the lanes, much less on the road. (of course, in the lanes you will ALWAYS be running on battery power....)
IF the alternator cant keep up with the draw, then it WILL take its current from the battery, and IF that load drops to where the alternator can pick back up, then it will run teh system AND recharge the battery as well.....
"And some people run extra batteries close-coupled near their amps... depending on listening habits or the intent of the stereo's usage (like an electrical pump's "duty cycle".. what percentage of time are you listening to it?), this can help..
Large capacitors close-coupled with the amp can help too..
No they don't help the amp make more power..
But they are like little electrical shock absorbers, for instantaneous hits like kick drums, they do the trick...
For long drawn out bass-CD type stuff, well, needless to say there will be some battery draw!"
I honestly dont know what either one of us is trying to prove anymore. He told me we were both right [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
Does this mean that if you play music that draws more current than the alternator can support more htan 50% of teh time you WILL slowly discharge the battery? yes. does this mean that if you are a person who does this, that you NEED to go out an purchase an alternator, or be doomed to completely drain your battery often? no. it is a fact, that many people have run high draw systems in a car with stock alternators and been fine. it is not a neccesary purchase (unless that light dimming really does bug you [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG])
03-21-2002
#38
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 and inductive reactance is the AC version of resistance, where the opposition to that flow is caused by the presence of an inductor in a cuircuit.
In a DC circiut, it is the change in charge flow that causes this resistance, such as if suddenly you had a HUGE demand for current in your system (bass kicks.....) and if you dont think that a straight wire can create a magnetic field, jack one of those neato cow magnet field display thingies from your physics department, o ryou can try it with a compass (i dont know if that will work, it should, but ive only used the cow magnet thingie) and play music that varies greatly with current draw with the "field sensor" (just a bunch of iron fillings suspended in liquid) near the power cable. youll see the interaction between the filings when the bass hits.
at THIS point, im gonn start talking out of my ***, so it should be easy to prove me wrong.... IF you couldnt run more than 50 amps through an 8 guage..... now, you say that the wire will heat up, i agree, and tha tresistance will increase, i agree, but eventually the voltage drop from teh wire alone should be enough to cause the amp to go into protection, from an anylitical point of view, shouldnt this occur BEFORE the wire has enough time to catch fire? this is all theory, of course.....
In a DC circiut, it is the change in charge flow that causes this resistance, such as if suddenly you had a HUGE demand for current in your system (bass kicks.....) and if you dont think that a straight wire can create a magnetic field, jack one of those neato cow magnet field display thingies from your physics department, o ryou can try it with a compass (i dont know if that will work, it should, but ive only used the cow magnet thingie) and play music that varies greatly with current draw with the "field sensor" (just a bunch of iron fillings suspended in liquid) near the power cable. youll see the interaction between the filings when the bass hits.
at THIS point, im gonn start talking out of my ***, so it should be easy to prove me wrong.... IF you couldnt run more than 50 amps through an 8 guage..... now, you say that the wire will heat up, i agree, and tha tresistance will increase, i agree, but eventually the voltage drop from teh wire alone should be enough to cause the amp to go into protection, from an anylitical point of view, shouldnt this occur BEFORE the wire has enough time to catch fire? this is all theory, of course.....
03-21-2002
#39
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 See all these long arguements and theories and such prooved a learnign experiance for us both and put us both much closer to the actual real truth....[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Reactive inductance isn't caused in all A/C applications.. like light bulbs.. However when dealing with magnets and moving masses it's a big effect.. when a woofer cone moves in one direction at high velocity, to stop it and fight the force using the magnetic pull of the magnet causes alot of resistance..basically using Electro magnetism to move mass and fight inertia.... to generate heat Reactive inductance plays no real factor I.e Light bults.. baseboard heaters.. only where electro magnetism is involved..or in products that generate high magnetic fields..
As far as 8 guage actually catching fire... Not unless you use to short a battery directly [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..but the resistance in the wire will cause larger voltage drops which will cause amps to draw more current...
As far as the Sine waves in Competition...the reason for that is Playing ONLY a tone matching your port tuning/ cars resonant frequency... and the purpose of burps is to negate the effect of voltage drops because it's nothing more than a surge.. where batteries can put out higher amounts of electricity than their CCA rating.. Much like A/C-DC Converters.. a 600 power converter can handle 600 watts constant but generally have a 1000 watt + Surge rating..
For the magentic field around power wires.. well even your RCA's generate magnetic fields, but those are so weak that they are nearly undetectable even with fairly sensitive electronic test equipment..
as far as the use of line drivers.. THey can make bass louder in alot of systems purely bsed on the fact that it's sending a much cleaner signa at high power levels which means less distortion.. better subwoofer controll.. less clipping.. a little more SPL..
as far as using a high output alternator and cranking your system alot..if you pound for extended periods of time at high levels you battery will drain slowly.. as it drains you constant voltage drops as well which causes other electrical components in the car to also draw more current..which causes more heat in smaller wires like those of an ECU... Talking to Richard clarke as well did you mention the stock alternators only having a 70 amp output..
I've told many members who plan on running big amps and alot of power thattheir stock alt will do.. if the bump too hard for too long.. and turn the volume down about 5 minutes before they get home to allow the battery to recharge itself properly to avoid problems..
in my case.. I road trip alot, I'm 50% deaf and driving for 6 hours at high levels would toast my battery..
Before I got ym H/O alternator I ran the same power on my stock system.. after 3 hours driving.. turning my car off (gotta pee sometimes).. My car would take some serious effort to start..so to remedie this I got an Isolator and a Optim yellow for my trunk.. after 2-3 hours my amps went into protection because my battery could no longer supply the minimum 10 volts...so it'd cut out for a half hour.. then I could crank it again for another hour or 2.. (Optima yellows are great.. they can deep cycled ALOT with no ill effects)..Now with ym H/O Alternator.. Watching my Capacitors voltage meter when I fold my back seats down I'm cranking it HARD.. and always above 13.5 volts [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..so... it bought me peace of mind.. Constant output (no variances due to constant voltage variations) (No Worries at all..even at Idle with my system cranked listenign to Bass CD's (which I hate I can;t stand cRAP music) I'm still holding over 13 volts.. ALso I live in canada where it gets cold.. Which greatly reduces a batteries output potential...so tis a grand thing to have.. and for $600 ($300ish once Mr. Irragi makes one for our cars) is a pretty good investment..
Also... If you had a Bentley.. would you run any amps????[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Stock 40 amp alternator leaves about 8-10 amps headroom to power all them sensors, fire 16 spark plugs...lights..he he.. In that case could you run a sytem off that alternator?..
With a GM 105 amp alternator.. no shoudln't have any problems.. but 35 more amps of output X13.8 volts= 483 watts more power that can safely be run,, now with music cycles being anywhere from 10-45% that can mean another 1000 watt class D amp or more [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
Your great to argue with.. we keep learning from each other here....keep the feeding the fire of growth...(yes I am in fact very sleepy right now)
Cheers
Mohawk
Reactive inductance isn't caused in all A/C applications.. like light bulbs.. However when dealing with magnets and moving masses it's a big effect.. when a woofer cone moves in one direction at high velocity, to stop it and fight the force using the magnetic pull of the magnet causes alot of resistance..basically using Electro magnetism to move mass and fight inertia.... to generate heat Reactive inductance plays no real factor I.e Light bults.. baseboard heaters.. only where electro magnetism is involved..or in products that generate high magnetic fields..
As far as 8 guage actually catching fire... Not unless you use to short a battery directly [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..but the resistance in the wire will cause larger voltage drops which will cause amps to draw more current...
As far as the Sine waves in Competition...the reason for that is Playing ONLY a tone matching your port tuning/ cars resonant frequency... and the purpose of burps is to negate the effect of voltage drops because it's nothing more than a surge.. where batteries can put out higher amounts of electricity than their CCA rating.. Much like A/C-DC Converters.. a 600 power converter can handle 600 watts constant but generally have a 1000 watt + Surge rating..
For the magentic field around power wires.. well even your RCA's generate magnetic fields, but those are so weak that they are nearly undetectable even with fairly sensitive electronic test equipment..
as far as the use of line drivers.. THey can make bass louder in alot of systems purely bsed on the fact that it's sending a much cleaner signa at high power levels which means less distortion.. better subwoofer controll.. less clipping.. a little more SPL..
as far as using a high output alternator and cranking your system alot..if you pound for extended periods of time at high levels you battery will drain slowly.. as it drains you constant voltage drops as well which causes other electrical components in the car to also draw more current..which causes more heat in smaller wires like those of an ECU... Talking to Richard clarke as well did you mention the stock alternators only having a 70 amp output..
I've told many members who plan on running big amps and alot of power thattheir stock alt will do.. if the bump too hard for too long.. and turn the volume down about 5 minutes before they get home to allow the battery to recharge itself properly to avoid problems..
in my case.. I road trip alot, I'm 50% deaf and driving for 6 hours at high levels would toast my battery..
Before I got ym H/O alternator I ran the same power on my stock system.. after 3 hours driving.. turning my car off (gotta pee sometimes).. My car would take some serious effort to start..so to remedie this I got an Isolator and a Optim yellow for my trunk.. after 2-3 hours my amps went into protection because my battery could no longer supply the minimum 10 volts...so it'd cut out for a half hour.. then I could crank it again for another hour or 2.. (Optima yellows are great.. they can deep cycled ALOT with no ill effects)..Now with ym H/O Alternator.. Watching my Capacitors voltage meter when I fold my back seats down I'm cranking it HARD.. and always above 13.5 volts [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..so... it bought me peace of mind.. Constant output (no variances due to constant voltage variations) (No Worries at all..even at Idle with my system cranked listenign to Bass CD's (which I hate I can;t stand cRAP music) I'm still holding over 13 volts.. ALso I live in canada where it gets cold.. Which greatly reduces a batteries output potential...so tis a grand thing to have.. and for $600 ($300ish once Mr. Irragi makes one for our cars) is a pretty good investment..
Also... If you had a Bentley.. would you run any amps????[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Stock 40 amp alternator leaves about 8-10 amps headroom to power all them sensors, fire 16 spark plugs...lights..he he.. In that case could you run a sytem off that alternator?..
With a GM 105 amp alternator.. no shoudln't have any problems.. but 35 more amps of output X13.8 volts= 483 watts more power that can safely be run,, now with music cycles being anywhere from 10-45% that can mean another 1000 watt class D amp or more [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
Your great to argue with.. we keep learning from each other here....keep the feeding the fire of growth...(yes I am in fact very sleepy right now)
Cheers
Mohawk
03-22-2002
#40
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 o man, where to begin......
<< See all these long arguements and theories and such prooved a learnign experiance for us both and put us both much closer to the actual real truth....[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] >>
and this is why this forum is so great. remember kids, you will get banned from other forums for participating what mohawk and i are. been learning every day! =p
<< Reactive inductance isn't caused in all A/C applications.. like light bulbs.. However when dealing with magnets and moving masses it's a big effect.. when a woofer cone moves in one direction at high velocity, to stop it and fight the force using the magnetic pull of the magnet causes alot of resistance..basically using Electro magnetism to move mass and fight inertia.... to generate heat Reactive inductance plays no real factor I.e Light bults.. baseboard heaters.. only where electro magnetism is involved..or in products that generate high magnetic fields.. >>
never said anything about that. but trying to shove mass amounts of current through a wire, the resistance caused by reactive inductance may provide more resistance than just the reisstance of the wire itself! Gonna ask a buddy about that one, just to be sure.... as far as RCA's are concerned, that is why voltage is so important. this is why power towers and power poles have voltages in the thousands and millions of volts. higher the voltage, the smaller the voltage drop over large distances. as the voltage drops, the total power an the system drops, and thus the current at the new potential is MUCH lower.
<< As far as 8 guage actually catching fire... Not unless you use to short a battery directly [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..but the resistance in the wire will cause larger voltage drops which will cause amps to draw more current... >>
high resistance = low current
low resistance = high current
actually this has to do with the statement above. if a wire heats up, then its resistance increases, if its resistance increases, then its current decreases. resistance is related inversely proportional to power, current, and voltage.
and as far as catching fire i dunno, but it is NOT good to put an earthquake D2 on one of those, not if your running the wire from the trunk to the battery.
<< As far as the Sine waves in Competition...the reason for that is Playing ONLY a tone matching your port tuning/ cars resonant frequency... and the purpose of burps is to negate the effect of voltage drops because it's nothing more than a surge.. where batteries can put out higher amounts of electricity than their CCA rating.. Much like A/C-DC Converters.. a 600 power converter can handle 600 watts constant but generally have a 1000 watt + Surge rating..
<<
you still havent told me what you run..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG].. I agree with what you say in its entirety here. now tha tyou have said this, please re-explain to me how playing music can yield 1-3 Db higher, and explain how this can be applied universally, one example of this is not enough to convince me....
>>
the magentic field around power wires.. well even your RCA's generate magnetic fields, but those are so weak that they are nearly undetectable even with fairly sensitive electronic test equipment....
<<
If you spend <$3 on RCA's, I suspect you will be able to detect. RCA cables are heavily shielded, this is to prevent outside signals from interfereing. The signals are low themselves because they run at as high a voltage as they canim sure you can come up with reasons why it is desireable to have a large voltage (tho to a point you dont absolutely NEED any more voltage.... just the the alternator!:cool[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
>>
as far as the use of line drivers.. THey can make bass louder in alot of systems purely bsed on the fact that it's sending a much cleaner signa at high power levels which means less distortion.. better subwoofer controll.. less clipping.. a little more SPL....
<<
SPL systems have exactly ZERO distortion to begin with. distortion lowers SPL = loose competition. you want to reach the PEAK wave without ANY sort of clipping. As amps take in current from the .25 to the 2-4 volt level, i fyou have 4 volt outs, you have PLENTY of power for 99% of the amps out there, to reach the amps maximum potential, tho I'm sure you have an example of one or two SPL competitors who INSIST on line drivers....If youd like I can proveide examples of people who added line drivers to teh system and htey added too much noise to the system, sounded better and got louder wihtout.
>>
as far as using a high output alternator and cranking your system alot..if you pound for extended periods of time at high levels you battery will drain slowly.. as it drains you constant voltage drops as well which causes other electrical components in the car to also draw more current..which causes more heat in smaller wires like those of an ECU... Talking to Richard clarke as well did you mention the stock alternators only having a 70 amp output....
<<
first of all, the ECU is heavily regulated to prevent problems like this. I suspect all of your ECU problems stemmed from problems with the regulators, not due to the heavy draw of the system. But that is just my inner common sence talking, not any evidence or proof. not really worried about that. and I didnt have to mention a 70 amp alternator, it was richard clark himself who mentioned it talking about an alternator being able to take up to and over 3000 watts now just fine.....
>>
I've told many members who plan on running big amps and alot of power thattheir stock alt will do.. if the bump too hard for too long.. and turn the volume down about 5 minutes before they get home to allow the battery to recharge itself properly to avoid problems..
in my case.. I road trip alot, I'm 50% deaf and driving for 6 hours at high levels would toast my battery....
<<
I agree with this practice everywhere..... you turn it off a couple blocks before, not only does your system have time to recharge, but your not advertising to anyone in the mall parking lot what you got.....theft resistance......
>>
Before I got ym H/O alternator I ran the same power on my stock system.. after 3 hours driving.. turning my car off (gotta pee sometimes).. My car would take some serious effort to start..so to remedie this I got an Isolator and a Optim yellow for my trunk.. after 2-3 hours my amps went into protection because my battery could no longer supply the minimum 10 volts...so it'd cut out for a half hour.. then I could crank it again for another hour or 2.. (Optima yellows are great.. they can deep cycled ALOT with no ill effects)..Now with ym H/O Alternator.. Watching my Capacitors voltage meter when I fold my back seats down I'm cranking it HARD.. and always above 13.5 volts [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..so... it bought me peace of mind.. Constant output (no variances due to constant voltage variations) (No Worries at all..even at Idle with my system cranked listenign to Bass CD's (which I hate I can;t stand cRAP music) I'm still holding over 13 volts.. ALso I live in canada where it gets cold.. Which greatly reduces a batteries output potential...so tis a grand thing to have.. and for $600 ($300ish once Mr. Irragi makes one for our cars) is a pretty good investment....
<<
richard clark proved that caps do nothing in a car...unless you got a big cap with a low ESR rating, or your bass requirements are not very amp consuming when the draw is too much for the alt. and I'm VERY curious as to what brand cap you have, my buddy got a bargain cap, his voltage would bounce all over the place when we watched the voltmeter on it... actually the voltage on my car has fewer problems! (of course RC "lessons" taught us why...)
>>
Also... If you had a Bentley.. would you run any amps????[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Stock 40 amp alternator leaves about 8-10 amps headroom to power all them sensors, fire 16 spark plugs...lights..he he.. In that case could you run a sytem off that alternator?....
<<
the question here is civics, not bentlys. and I dont know anything about bentlys, or any other car I will never own ever in my life... so I dont really care..... i guess i wouldnt run any amps in teh bently ill never own. *shrug* now, if CIVICS came with a 40 amp alternator stock, THEN I might give this some thought.....
>>
With a GM 105 amp alternator.. no shoudln't have any problems.. but 35 more amps of output X13.8 volts= 483 watts more power that can safely be run,, now with music cycles being anywhere from 10-45% that can mean another 1000 watt class D amp or more [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]....
<<
but who will be running an extra 1000 watts? its gonna be the SPL competitor? how many people have multi kilowatt SQ systems/daily drivers? now compare that to teh number of multi kilowatt systems that are dedicated to SPL? I dont think any of us would be surprised to hear that answer......
>>
Your great to argue with.. we keep learning from each other here....keep the feeding the fire of growth...(yes I am in fact very sleepy right now) >>
As are you, Im not gonna be online much next week, spring break, so im going home, no computer over the weekend, and i got a couple o things to take care of (must get components, dun care anymore if they HCCA or a/d/s [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]) and if you think that you can hear the differnece between amps, then Richard Clark will write you a check for $10,000. no joke, and capacitors, another $5,000. that goes for anyone at all! giv ehim a buzz! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
<< See all these long arguements and theories and such prooved a learnign experiance for us both and put us both much closer to the actual real truth....[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] >>
and this is why this forum is so great. remember kids, you will get banned from other forums for participating what mohawk and i are.
been learning every day! =p << Reactive inductance isn't caused in all A/C applications.. like light bulbs.. However when dealing with magnets and moving masses it's a big effect.. when a woofer cone moves in one direction at high velocity, to stop it and fight the force using the magnetic pull of the magnet causes alot of resistance..basically using Electro magnetism to move mass and fight inertia.... to generate heat Reactive inductance plays no real factor I.e Light bults.. baseboard heaters.. only where electro magnetism is involved..or in products that generate high magnetic fields.. >>
never said anything about that. but trying to shove mass amounts of current through a wire, the resistance caused by reactive inductance may provide more resistance than just the reisstance of the wire itself! Gonna ask a buddy about that one, just to be sure.... as far as RCA's are concerned, that is why voltage is so important. this is why power towers and power poles have voltages in the thousands and millions of volts. higher the voltage, the smaller the voltage drop over large distances. as the voltage drops, the total power an the system drops, and thus the current at the new potential is MUCH lower.
<< As far as 8 guage actually catching fire... Not unless you use to short a battery directly [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..but the resistance in the wire will cause larger voltage drops which will cause amps to draw more current... >>
high resistance = low current
low resistance = high current
actually this has to do with the statement above. if a wire heats up, then its resistance increases, if its resistance increases, then its current decreases. resistance is related inversely proportional to power, current, and voltage.
and as far as catching fire i dunno, but it is NOT good to put an earthquake D2 on one of those, not if your running the wire from the trunk to the battery.
<< As far as the Sine waves in Competition...the reason for that is Playing ONLY a tone matching your port tuning/ cars resonant frequency... and the purpose of burps is to negate the effect of voltage drops because it's nothing more than a surge.. where batteries can put out higher amounts of electricity than their CCA rating.. Much like A/C-DC Converters.. a 600 power converter can handle 600 watts constant but generally have a 1000 watt + Surge rating..
<<
you still havent told me what you run..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG].. I agree with what you say in its entirety here. now tha tyou have said this, please re-explain to me how playing music can yield 1-3 Db higher, and explain how this can be applied universally, one example of this is not enough to convince me....
>>
the magentic field around power wires.. well even your RCA's generate magnetic fields, but those are so weak that they are nearly undetectable even with fairly sensitive electronic test equipment....
<<
If you spend <$3 on RCA's, I suspect you will be able to detect. RCA cables are heavily shielded, this is to prevent outside signals from interfereing. The signals are low themselves because they run at as high a voltage as they canim sure you can come up with reasons why it is desireable to have a large voltage (tho to a point you dont absolutely NEED any more voltage.... just the the alternator!:cool[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
>>
as far as the use of line drivers.. THey can make bass louder in alot of systems purely bsed on the fact that it's sending a much cleaner signa at high power levels which means less distortion.. better subwoofer controll.. less clipping.. a little more SPL....
<<
SPL systems have exactly ZERO distortion to begin with. distortion lowers SPL = loose competition. you want to reach the PEAK wave without ANY sort of clipping. As amps take in current from the .25 to the 2-4 volt level, i fyou have 4 volt outs, you have PLENTY of power for 99% of the amps out there, to reach the amps maximum potential, tho I'm sure you have an example of one or two SPL competitors who INSIST on line drivers....If youd like I can proveide examples of people who added line drivers to teh system and htey added too much noise to the system, sounded better and got louder wihtout.
>>
as far as using a high output alternator and cranking your system alot..if you pound for extended periods of time at high levels you battery will drain slowly.. as it drains you constant voltage drops as well which causes other electrical components in the car to also draw more current..which causes more heat in smaller wires like those of an ECU... Talking to Richard clarke as well did you mention the stock alternators only having a 70 amp output....
<<
first of all, the ECU is heavily regulated to prevent problems like this. I suspect all of your ECU problems stemmed from problems with the regulators, not due to the heavy draw of the system. But that is just my inner common sence talking, not any evidence or proof. not really worried about that. and I didnt have to mention a 70 amp alternator, it was richard clark himself who mentioned it talking about an alternator being able to take up to and over 3000 watts now just fine.....
>>
I've told many members who plan on running big amps and alot of power thattheir stock alt will do.. if the bump too hard for too long.. and turn the volume down about 5 minutes before they get home to allow the battery to recharge itself properly to avoid problems..
in my case.. I road trip alot, I'm 50% deaf and driving for 6 hours at high levels would toast my battery....
<<
I agree with this practice everywhere..... you turn it off a couple blocks before, not only does your system have time to recharge, but your not advertising to anyone in the mall parking lot what you got.....theft resistance......
>>
Before I got ym H/O alternator I ran the same power on my stock system.. after 3 hours driving.. turning my car off (gotta pee sometimes).. My car would take some serious effort to start..so to remedie this I got an Isolator and a Optim yellow for my trunk.. after 2-3 hours my amps went into protection because my battery could no longer supply the minimum 10 volts...so it'd cut out for a half hour.. then I could crank it again for another hour or 2.. (Optima yellows are great.. they can deep cycled ALOT with no ill effects)..Now with ym H/O Alternator.. Watching my Capacitors voltage meter when I fold my back seats down I'm cranking it HARD.. and always above 13.5 volts [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..so... it bought me peace of mind.. Constant output (no variances due to constant voltage variations) (No Worries at all..even at Idle with my system cranked listenign to Bass CD's (which I hate I can;t stand cRAP music) I'm still holding over 13 volts.. ALso I live in canada where it gets cold.. Which greatly reduces a batteries output potential...so tis a grand thing to have.. and for $600 ($300ish once Mr. Irragi makes one for our cars) is a pretty good investment....
<<
richard clark proved that caps do nothing in a car...unless you got a big cap with a low ESR rating, or your bass requirements are not very amp consuming when the draw is too much for the alt. and I'm VERY curious as to what brand cap you have, my buddy got a bargain cap, his voltage would bounce all over the place when we watched the voltmeter on it... actually the voltage on my car has fewer problems! (of course RC "lessons" taught us why...)
>>
Also... If you had a Bentley.. would you run any amps????[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Stock 40 amp alternator leaves about 8-10 amps headroom to power all them sensors, fire 16 spark plugs...lights..he he.. In that case could you run a sytem off that alternator?....
<<
the question here is civics, not bentlys. and I dont know anything about bentlys, or any other car I will never own ever in my life... so I dont really care..... i guess i wouldnt run any amps in teh bently ill never own. *shrug* now, if CIVICS came with a 40 amp alternator stock, THEN I might give this some thought.....
>>
With a GM 105 amp alternator.. no shoudln't have any problems.. but 35 more amps of output X13.8 volts= 483 watts more power that can safely be run,, now with music cycles being anywhere from 10-45% that can mean another 1000 watt class D amp or more [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]....
<<
but who will be running an extra 1000 watts? its gonna be the SPL competitor? how many people have multi kilowatt SQ systems/daily drivers? now compare that to teh number of multi kilowatt systems that are dedicated to SPL? I dont think any of us would be surprised to hear that answer......
>>
Your great to argue with.. we keep learning from each other here....keep the feeding the fire of growth...(yes I am in fact very sleepy right now) >>
As are you, Im not gonna be online much next week, spring break, so im going home, no computer over the weekend, and i got a couple o things to take care of (must get components, dun care anymore if they HCCA or a/d/s [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]) and if you think that you can hear the differnece between amps, then Richard Clark will write you a check for $10,000. no joke, and capacitors, another $5,000. that goes for anyone at all! giv ehim a buzz! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
i promise to never do that agiain!
03-22-2002
#42
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 Allright I just woke up so i'm gonna only reply to a little of this..
For Line Drivers, for single or dual amp setups they're not too useful. But running 4 or more amps the 4 volt HU output being split reduces voltage and signal clarity to each amp. Which is where a line driver plays a major role.
As Far as SPL systems not being distorted.. well possibly the amps aren't distorting, but run 4kw to a DD 9515 and tell that cone it's flexing like a ****...[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] a THD up to 10% is considered normal for SPL runs without any loss of SPL due to cone breakup and irregularities.
As far as the stock alternator with Richard Clarke he was referring to a stock GM a/c Delco 105 amp alternator...(which is considered the "norm" Because ford also uses 90-105 amp alternators..Mazda, Honda, and MItsubishi use alot of 70amp alternators (all made by mitsubishi(the alts anyways) Chryslers which are mitsubishi's use at least 90 amp alternators..) But alas the biggest problem with civics alts isn't necessarily the output.. it's heat.. No fans..as an alternator gets hotter it's output is reduced quite a bit..which is why alot of Mazda 60amp alts get replaced every day [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]....
for my cap I use a 1.5 Farad Lightning audio Storm digitop.. Has the lowest ESR tested for caps that I've seen...Most other companies won't even advertise the caps ESR.... I use it purely to keep voltage stable during long bass hits..I am afterall running an SQ system with nearly 3(more like 2.5) Horspower to move my speakers [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. (just about 1700Wrms)..
And Tell Richard CLarke to write me that check for $10,000
because there are acoustical differences between alot of amplifiers.. mostly with noise..and les noticibly (but still noticable) is frequency response... an amp with a s/n Ratio of 76 DB's and a +/-3db frequency range from 20-20khz can mean up to 6db's of difference between some notes.. DEFINITELY can hear the difference... also with amps damping factors..and more importantly(for subs only) an amp slew rate...
As far as taking 10 regular kenwood, Cerwin Vega, Blaupunkt, MTX, SONY....and add in a Zapco amp in the same steup using actual reference speakers.. There's a difference....Not a very noticable one, but play some DVD Music (high bit recordings, 96MHZ processing rate) and you can really hear a difference..Using $300 Speakers and add in all the acoustical anomalies of cars then.. well no.. no dam difference except noise, and Distortion..
IF Richard Clarke can't hear the diff between a Sony Xplod and an ARC audio amp.. then tell him to run Jensen amps in his next setup and see what he says bro [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
Cheers
Mohawk
For Line Drivers, for single or dual amp setups they're not too useful. But running 4 or more amps the 4 volt HU output being split reduces voltage and signal clarity to each amp. Which is where a line driver plays a major role.
As Far as SPL systems not being distorted.. well possibly the amps aren't distorting, but run 4kw to a DD 9515 and tell that cone it's flexing like a ****...[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] a THD up to 10% is considered normal for SPL runs without any loss of SPL due to cone breakup and irregularities.
As far as the stock alternator with Richard Clarke he was referring to a stock GM a/c Delco 105 amp alternator...(which is considered the "norm" Because ford also uses 90-105 amp alternators..Mazda, Honda, and MItsubishi use alot of 70amp alternators (all made by mitsubishi(the alts anyways) Chryslers which are mitsubishi's use at least 90 amp alternators..) But alas the biggest problem with civics alts isn't necessarily the output.. it's heat.. No fans..as an alternator gets hotter it's output is reduced quite a bit..which is why alot of Mazda 60amp alts get replaced every day [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]....
for my cap I use a 1.5 Farad Lightning audio Storm digitop.. Has the lowest ESR tested for caps that I've seen...Most other companies won't even advertise the caps ESR.... I use it purely to keep voltage stable during long bass hits..I am afterall running an SQ system with nearly 3(more like 2.5) Horspower to move my speakers [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. (just about 1700Wrms)..
And Tell Richard CLarke to write me that check for $10,000
because there are acoustical differences between alot of amplifiers.. mostly with noise..and les noticibly (but still noticable) is frequency response... an amp with a s/n Ratio of 76 DB's and a +/-3db frequency range from 20-20khz can mean up to 6db's of difference between some notes.. DEFINITELY can hear the difference... also with amps damping factors..and more importantly(for subs only) an amp slew rate...
As far as taking 10 regular kenwood, Cerwin Vega, Blaupunkt, MTX, SONY....and add in a Zapco amp in the same steup using actual reference speakers.. There's a difference....Not a very noticable one, but play some DVD Music (high bit recordings, 96MHZ processing rate) and you can really hear a difference..Using $300 Speakers and add in all the acoustical anomalies of cars then.. well no.. no dam difference except noise, and Distortion..
IF Richard Clarke can't hear the diff between a Sony Xplod and an ARC audio amp.. then tell him to run Jensen amps in his next setup and see what he says bro [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
Cheers
Mohawk
03-25-2002
#46
Registered!!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scottsburg, Indiana, US
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 I know I'm entering into this a little late, but I just wanted to tell you about my experience with my systems that I've had with my stock 105 amp alt. Well...first of all, I want to say that the efficiency of the subs and amps you are using seems to make quite a difference in how much power is drawn. For instance: I had a Clarion ProAudio APA-1200 (300wRMS @ 2-Ohms) with two 12" Punch XLCs wired in parallel. Now...even with bass CDs and my subs being pushed to their limits, my battery guage would barely even move...most of the time it was unnoticable. Now...a friend of mine had a pair of those cheap 10" Pioneer IMPP subs that you get at Wal-Mart. He wanted to see what they sounded like, so we hooked them to my amp. The same amp that pushed my Punch XLCs, with little current draw, made my battery guage drop to around 10-11 volts with those pathetically inefficient 10's. Also, now that I have my L7s with my JBL BP-1200.1, I've noticed a huge amount of draw. I'm sure part of it is because I'm only using 8-guage power wire and 18-guage speaker wire, but I don't think it would make a huge difference...I mean, my manual specifically says that I can use 4 or 8 guage power wire. Anyway, another thing to consider is what frequency the bass is that you are listening to. If you listen to music with higher bass (above 40hz), you can easily run the kind of power that you are talking about on a stock alt...but when you get into the deeper bass, your amp requires a lot more power. For instance, when I listen to my usual rap music or the radio, most songs don't cause my battery guage to move much. Some songs, like Country Grammar by Nelly, are a lot deeper and require more power to play the deep bass. I was listening to some rap with deep bass the other day, going 60 Mph down the highway (my alt should have been producing plenty of power at that point). I didn't have my headlights or stereo on, and my battery guage was dropping clear into the red area. After a half hour or so, I noticed that my bass wasn't hitting quite as hard, and my amp and CD player actually started turning on and off...I shut my stuff off and drove a few more minutes, thinking that might help. Anyway, I shut my car off when I got to where I was going...only to find out that my battery was completely dead! I had to get a jumpstart...and my battery was so low that my first attempt at starting my car simply killed the truck of the person jumping my car. I turned my key, and his truck died instantly! Anyway...all I'm saying is that a stock alt might be able to power a system okay...but if you want any charge left in your battery, it's definately good to upgrade. I mean, mine puts out at least 105 amps...but it still isn't enough. My sub amp's peak power consumption is 114 amps...plus you have to take into account things like my other amp, my headlights, my heater/AC, etc. When I get my Civic, I'm going to run 4-guage cable with 12-guage speaker wire...that should help some...but I'm going to have to do something about my alt. I mean, assuming that the stock alt is 70 amps, then my BP-1200.1 can draw up to 44 amps more than what the stock alt can put out!!
03-25-2002
#47
Registered!!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scottsburg, Indiana, US
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 In the above post, I said I didn't have my headlights or stereo on...but I meant my headlights or heater. Lol...I'm tired...worked today, been up since 10 am...now it's 3 am...sorry!
03-25-2002
#48
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 Yet another example of what sometimes works.. and othertimes leave someone stck by the road with a dead battery 
..neon..for that 8 guage is definately not enough.. Nothing less than 4 guage is accepatable (8 will work bu the wire has too high of a resistance at that raw) also 18 guage speaker wire is a wee bit small[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. once you upgrade things should be "ok" as long as you don't crank it too much.. but there's the reasons for upgrading..
Cheers
Mohawk
..neon..for that 8 guage is definately not enough.. Nothing less than 4 guage is accepatable (8 will work bu the wire has too high of a resistance at that raw) also 18 guage speaker wire is a wee bit small[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. once you upgrade things should be "ok" as long as you don't crank it too much.. but there's the reasons for upgrading..Cheers
Mohawk
03-25-2002
#49
Registered!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: bay area, california
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 313 sorry, im in san ho right now, gonna be here for awhile, so cant raelly respond to anything. anways, sorry neon you got that problme, maybe me and everyone on CAF and all my friends and everyone I know who has high power stereo sytems are just lucky, i dunno. that sucks dude!
again, with all the ppl on this forum having alternator problems i can see why everyone here is in an alternator frenzy! i give up tho. ive done my best to contribute to what happens in a stereo and a car during high current draw, and all teh theory in the world dont mean jack if you are having alt problems. like i said, Ive never had a problem, all my friends have never had a problem, noone in chat on CAF has a problem, and most of teh ppl in the forum dont have problems with thier alternators (stock or otherwise, tho over 90% have stock, i assure you). I assumed that the theory was correct cause in 90% of the cases, stock alternator was fine. if it sucks for you, well, that just sucks, man. I can play for 4 hour straight at high draws and have had no problems, not even an amp overheating (now that i replaced the sub amp [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]) but my experience surely is not the norm, especially on this forum. i dunno, maybe I am the lucky one, along with all my friends, and the 10,000 users of CAF. *shrug*
again, you have my sympathy, that sucks man. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
again, with all the ppl on this forum having alternator problems i can see why everyone here is in an alternator frenzy! i give up tho. ive done my best to contribute to what happens in a stereo and a car during high current draw, and all teh theory in the world dont mean jack if you are having alt problems. like i said, Ive never had a problem, all my friends have never had a problem, noone in chat on CAF has a problem, and most of teh ppl in the forum dont have problems with thier alternators (stock or otherwise, tho over 90% have stock, i assure you). I assumed that the theory was correct cause in 90% of the cases, stock alternator was fine. if it sucks for you, well, that just sucks, man. I can play for 4 hour straight at high draws and have had no problems, not even an amp overheating (now that i replaced the sub amp [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]) but my experience surely is not the norm, especially on this forum. i dunno, maybe I am the lucky one, along with all my friends, and the 10,000 users of CAF. *shrug*
again, you have my sympathy, that sucks man. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
03-25-2002
#50
Registered!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Rep Power: 0 The Biggest actual problem with our Civics alts is they have NO fans to keep em cool....as you know when an alt gets hotter it's output drops....
Also..your onlly running your amp at 600Wrms.. wait till you run it at 1200 then see how well your system takes it and how your voltage meter holds it (it may..I actually wanna know how it does hold up with the 1200watts as oppsed to 600)..
get back when ya can.. Cheers
Mohawk
Also..your onlly running your amp at 600Wrms.. wait till you run it at 1200 then see how well your system takes it and how your voltage meter holds it (it may..I actually wanna know how it does hold up with the 1200watts as oppsed to 600)..
get back when ya can.. Cheers
Mohawk
04-21-2002
#51
Registered!!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Macon, Georgia, US
Age: 43
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 I havfta use a 50$ breaker for my cars system... I'd rather have a breakr with a delayed response than a 12$ fuse to replace everytime it trips. Not to mention that the fuses require a 49$ Fuse Holder. My Amp "can" pull 90 amps of power at full force (Memphis 1000D).
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wankenstein
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
8
07-12-2015 11:54 AM
jferristx
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
6
07-08-2015 10:09 PM
