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What your electrical system can take Quick Version will edit and go into more detail later... Class D amps run at about 80% Efficiency at 1/3 power.. only 50% efficiency at rated power... Class A/B Amps run about 50% efficient on average.. Figuring you have the amps driving at 3/4 Volume.. That makes your 1200 Watt class D amp running about 800Watts or so... at say 70% Efficiency 800watts at 70% effiency is 1142 Watts...at 13.8 volts(realistically) 82 amps of current The current draw is not constant as Music is Dynamic.. so for Rap and Hip hop figure only about 45% of that draw is constant (33% for msot other music programming) so 37 amps draw (24 with most other music) No figure 50Wrms x4 Class A/B Amp at 50 % Efficiency. 3/4 volume 150Wrms.. 50% Efficiency 300 watt draw or 21 amp draw.. given the 33% Musical dynamics.. that's 7 amps.. Okay so that's 44 amp draw..from a 70amp alternator..not so bad... Turn on the lights and the A/C and rev the engine to 3500Rpms.. that's about a 40 amp draw from your Accessories and ignition system.. Hmmm 84 amps.. Tis means the battery is siffering long term discharge.. and gven with lon bass hits the battery will be discharged.. A Disrcharged battery becoming a resistor and drawing more current to recharge..thus alowong less alternator current to be used to the amps and the rest of the electrical system.. In neons case a 90 amp alternator "should" Do the trick...but most alternators don't produce their full ratings under 3500Rpms..When I had my stock alt.. the highest current it would put out was 73 amps but at that draw voltage dropped to 11.9 volts..at the amps.... at 11.9 volts at the amps..they will guess what.. draw even more current to produce it's power.. See the Problem Bro..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Cheers Mohawk |
great post Mohawk. that helped me a lot. :tup: |
I hate reading my posts again.. I make more spelling mistakes than these fella's http://www.engrish.com/images/buildings/fack.jpg http://www.engrish.com/images/recent...nosmorking.jpg http://www.engrish.com/images/buildi...nt-tickets.jpg lol |
Excellent post, Mohawk. Good friggin Info. Nice to know even those of us who are no longer noobs (yay!!) can still pick up new information from yall elders:). Keep droppin that science, Kuzyn. . .[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG] |
Elders..just cause I have alot of white hair don't eman I'm old.. I just turned 21 dude lol |
I am going to turn 20 in a month. I like to think I am pretty smart, but nowhere near as smart as Mohawk. |
<< I am going to turn 20 in a month. I like to think I am pretty smart, but nowhere near as smart as Mohawk. >> Dude, I'm not allknowing or anything.. I just read alot..stop actin like a SideKick dude[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] |
<< Quick Version will edit and go into more detail later... Class D amps run at about 80% Efficiency at 1/3 power.. only 50% efficiency at rated power... Class A/B Amps run about 50% efficient on average.. Figuring you have the amps driving at 3/4 Volume.. That makes your 1200 Watt class D amp running about 800Watts or so... at say 70% Efficiency 800watts at 70% effiency is 1142 Watts...at 13.8 volts(realistically) 82 amps of current The current draw is not constant as Music is Dynamic.. so for Rap and Hip hop figure only about 45% of that draw is constant (33% for msot other music programming) so 37 amps draw (24 with most other music) No figure 50Wrms x4 Class A/B Amp at 50 % Efficiency. 3/4 volume 150Wrms.. 50% Efficiency 300 watt draw or 21 amp draw.. given the 33% Musical dynamics.. that's 7 amps.. Okay so that's 44 amp draw..from a 70amp alternator..not so bad... Turn on the lights and the A/C and rev the engine to 3500Rpms.. that's about a 40 amp draw from your Accessories and ignition system.. Hmmm 84 amps.. Tis means the battery is siffering long term discharge.. and gven with lon bass hits the battery will be discharged.. A Disrcharged battery becoming a resistor and drawing more current to recharge..thus alowong less alternator current to be used to the amps and the rest of the electrical system.. In neons case a 90 amp alternator "should" Do the trick...but most alternators don't produce their full ratings under 3500Rpms..When I had my stock alt.. the highest current it would put out was 73 amps but at that draw voltage dropped to 11.9 volts..at the amps.... at 11.9 volts at the amps..they will guess what.. draw even more current to produce it's power.. See the Problem Bro..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. Cheers Mohawk >> o come on, man, we went through this! this looks VERY great on paper, but thats like saying 8 guage can only pass through 50 amps of current before burning! cause the math makes sense, but if you hook up 8 guage to a 600 watt amp, youll be fine. why? math means nothing to real world results. and the fact is, that your 70 amp alternator CAN in fact keep up with current draws of over 2000 total system watts. are you working for an alternator company? cause the fact is, that anyone here will be FINE with NO alternator upgrade, not even a battery upgrade. my total system watts = 720 watts RMS at 12.4 volts, which means much more power at 14! that is 600 class D watts , and 170 class A/B watts, im not even using my amps to their full potential! (more to come on that later [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]) there are people here who run ALOT more power than I am on stock alternators and are JUST fine. like I said, looks great on paper, and works mathematically, but when it comes to real world results, the fact is, you can beat up your alternator stock ALOT before it dies, and your battery can handle running high power stereos AND all your electronics just fine. If you want, ill turn up my system VERY loud and take a video of my voltmeter needle dancing, no doubt thre is a voltage drop happening, but the electrical system as a whole can keep up with OVERALL curent draw just fine. if what you say is true, and turned out to be true in the real world, then there would be ALOT of people with ALOT of problems :):)[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] |
Hmm, let's see, who to trust here? A new guy that just starts posting stuff, or someone that has been around a long time and has proven that he knows his stuff. What a though decision... |
<< Hmm, let's see, who to trust here? A new guy that just starts posting stuff, or someone that has been around a long time and has proven that he knows his stuff. What a though decision... >> haha this is the kind of mentality that wastes 1000's of dollars, but I dont have that kind of cash to drop on frivolus items haha. try getting some education before blindly putting people down. are you a religious man? im betting you are, you seem to have alot of blind faith in someone you dont even know....... im still searching for the best quote for here, but if anyone wants to prove mohawk wrong, just ask Richard Clark on carsound, im still doing searches on the forum there. got a couple quotes: "if you are lucky someday you will come to grips with the fact that audio is a lot like religion----most of what is done is not because it makes sense but because it is profitable for someone-----sure your amps draw what appears to be large amounts of current----but that number is with a test tone and not music---an amp is not like a light or fan motor that draws a continuous amount of current----an amp draws current in "gulps" and then pauses-----the power requirement is the AVERAGE----the alternator produced continuous energy whenever the engine is running----it stores this energy in the battery that is able to provide large "chunks" of energy almost continuously as long as the continuous stream of energy comes from the alternator----i believe i can safely say that 95 % of the aternators that are added to cars are totally not needed and in many cases provide less overall usefulness than the original------------------and imtfox?-----you are correct-----if the wiring did not cause a problem there should be no warranty issue but if the dealer decides it is, it just might be up to you to PROVE THAT IT DIDN'T cause the problem---- and when it comes to wiring it is goin to be pretty hard to stand up in court against a "authorized factory dealer".............RC" also from a buddy of mine "Semi.. Richard Clark on Carsound proved, using class A/B amps, that a stock 75 amp alternator could support over 2000 watts!" the search continues....... nrrhgreg: your pretty good at taking trash. how old are you? 15? 16? or are you just acting like one? next time try providing evidence to support mohawk or prove me wrong. that is teh true way to win a debate. |
<< << Hmm, let's see, who to trust here? A new guy that just starts posting stuff, or someone that has been around a long time and has proven that he knows his stuff. What a though decision... >> haha this is the kind of mentality that wastes 1000's of dollars, but I dont have that kind of cash to drop on frivolus items haha. try getting some education before blindly putting people down. are you a religious man? im betting you are, you seem to have alot of blind faith in someone you dont even know....... >> Now wait, I didn't necessarily say you were wrong, because quite frankly, I don't know what the real deal is about this. I was just saying that you coming on here and start calling someone who is respected on here flat out wrong is not the best way to get people to believe/trust you. Especially with out any background info or proof. |
more car sound quotes: "I have had three different aftermarket alternators in my car...They all failed and were replaced under warranty...when the last one failed I put the factory alt. back in and it delivers higher voltage at idle. It hasn't failed yet and I am happy with it." Guys, I am gonna beat a dead horse here for the millionth time and tell you when you really need, a new alternator. When your car fails to start in the morning following a long night of cruising and listening to music. And then only if you determine that you don't have an old battery that can't hold a charge. Now if you don't believe me that it will not make a dimes worth of difference in your car try something easy before you go to the trouble. Ask a friend that has already wasted his money on a big fancy alternator to park beside your car with the engine running. Hook up a set of good jumper cables and have him put them on and off while you listen to your stereo. See if you can hear the difference. Try this simple test and you will never waste money on an alternator upgrade ever again. And as for the small pulleys that idle at 2500 to 3000; if you think you can drive for very long at highway speeds with an alternator spinning at 12000 to 15000+ you have a rude awakening ahead. RC" "guys----alternators fail early in cars that have increased electrical demands for the same reasons transmissions fail in cars that are used to haul trailers and boats---but like transmissions the failures are easily fixed---it usually only requires replacement of brushes and or a few other inexpensive parts ----that is if the failures are not catastrophic due to poor system operation----by this i mean if you play the system for long periods of time and then start the car with a weak battery the charging requirements are going to be excessive---much more than powering the system----if the requirement were to only power the stereo the problem would not be so common----if everytime you left your car you left the lights on till the battery could barely start the car you would see a drastic reduction in alternator life as well---for system operation most factory alternators are adequate but the problem comes when the battery is abused due to different listening habits that arise from the installation of a "new stereo"" "So what's the clue? It's a near-dead, or dying battery that kills your alternator, NOT your stereo. That's because the load created by listening to MUSIC on a stereo is best compared to other loads by using a term called a "duty cycle". Music loads you electrical system with something like a 10% duty cycle, meaning that it's not drawing a steady current, but a series of high peak, short duration loads. But charging a dead or near-dead battery,.... that's probably something like a near 100% duty cycle. Then your alternator is operating in "full-field" mode, and producing a near constant current. Al... do us all a favor and don't throw your money away. OK? " i think we got a bunch of "Al's" over here, woundn't you say? |
"i was running 7 spb1000s off a factory hyundai alternator on 4 PHD2s last year with out burning up an alt........" a PHD2 is probably the most efficient 2000 watt amp out there, drawing about 255 amps to put out its rated 2000 watts. 4 PHD2's? doesnt sound like a daily driver to me........ and the search for Richard Clarks famous thread continues...... |
here's a quote for ya winnie the Pooh "Oh Silly rabbit"..:) Running all those amps off a stock alternator is more than fine.. because as a pure fact were you cranking your system and I mean cranking it wit that much power while bumping.. HEILL NO!!!..As for listening to everything Richard clark says and not actually learning things for yourself the fun way(hard/dumb way) more like it I wouldn't get too preachy.... You can crank your system hard and yout meter will bounce and dip down to 11 volts.. but shoot back to 14 during bass hits.. then level off at aboive 12 volts..yeah.. but if you read my posts your 600Wrms of class D power and 170Wrms of Class A/B power is well in the perfectly safe range for your electrical system..so poor example there. I Agree that in alot of cases a stock alternator is more than adequate even for a high power system.. why.. Most people's ears can't handle that much power to their system without going deff, getting blurred vision and having they eardrums swell up and get itchy for awhile.. The High Output alternators your hero Richard clark was reffering to were alternator shop re-winds.. Those are 75% Unreliable and are crap at low RPM's.. some will actually draw current untill it begins it's charging speed.. And as Far as Richard Clarks advice and Proof goes.. a fun dude named Eddie Runner has proven him wrong on many occasions. Sure he is rigt on msot things as am I.. I'm not always right.. I'm not a died hard 12 volt guru...But I share what I know...which is a fair bit...but not like a 23 year veteran installer would for sure. As for my reccomendations to people running 1500Watt+ Systems.. a High output alternator is a great safety feature.. May not be a necessity.. but given that at the shop I work part time at a few people have fried they're ECU's and had to dish out over $2g's because they're cars were leased for a new one.. they weren't too happy. Ohio Generator makes the most reasonably prices readily available alternators on the market...and they are bullet proff reliable... There's a newer fella named Dominick Iraggi who makes high output alts.. so Far no one has had any complaints.. Taking advice from old timers who make MAJOR$$$$ and haven't been in the field doing real work for awhile isn't the wisest thing to do. I don't doubt Rick Clarke's Knowledge on car audio.. but how many megawatt systems he ever run [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. I get alot of my information and knowledge from Competitions and competitors.. what better way to elarn than from the people trying to achieve the highest levels of excellence in car audio..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]. I Don't mind you stating your opinions and your Ideas and beliefs...It's more than welcome.. You may know some things I don't..I learn from everyone wherever I can... But Ease up on the religious accusations and Quotes from Rick Clark [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].... Be Civil.. Be Educated and Debate your views and knowledge... Don't run accusations and hard facts(if they are that) and passionate semi-educated arguements... In other words.. like my momma used to say.... Think about what yor gonna say before it flies out your mouth.. Cheers Mohawk |
as far as the reliability of richard clark, im not a member of carsound, so i dont know anything about him. What I do know si that not everything that works out on paper works in the real world, and there are plenty of competitors where I grew up that run on stock electrical systems hitting over 160. like I said, if you want to spend the $$$$$ chasing a ghost, be my guest, that is my opinion and yours. as far as stsing that an electrical system CANT support power levels above XXX, well, that just ISNT correct. you say you get your information from competitors, i get my real world testimony from competitors too. check out any audio forum, ask the big SPL competitors who runs large alternators, I bet many do ask the small time competitors who runs them, I'll bet dollars to doughnuts not many do...... they know how expensive this hobby is, and they cant support everything at once.... especially when their stock alternator keeps up with current draw fine. you didnt say anything about my 8 guage wire example! theoretically can not handle more than 50 amp draw? who here runs amps of over 600 watts on 8 gauge? you might be surprised..... as far as being civil, I am only civil to those who treat me civil, and saying everything I say is bull**** by telling me I am not to be trusted simply because of the time I spend here IS in fact, bull****. I will attack those people with snide, rude, and foolish comments if i so choose with no evidence to back me up whatsoever because they themselves did not give me the benefit of the doubt either. you make a good argument to undermine Richard Clark tho, like I said, im not a member there, I read his articles last year, thats basically it. when a good friend of mine who has been in caraudio for over a decade pointed me in his direction, I searched for his fabled 2000 watt stock alternator thread, couldnt find it *shrug* Id like to see eddie runners testimony that proves him wrong about alternators, please. finally, to opinions and beliefs, it is not an opinion that heavy current draw systems will do fine on a stock alternator, it is a FACT. why? becasue many, many people do it. period. obviously, this can not be a perfect record, even I could give you an example of someones stock (firebird) alternator popping, and that with only a single D2 amp. I should not have posted in this thread, tho. I should let you all just believe what you want to, cause really in the end, its not my money your spending. I thought I could save you some money, becasue out there, hundreds of people run large systems on stock alernators with no problems, but If you think it cant be done, then o well. BTW, has anyone considered fitting a second alternator under the hood? im sure it can be done SOMEHOW, and its the SUREST way to isolate the electrical system for the stereo/neons/anythingelse from teh core car functions....... tho it WILL cost a bit more than $300.........but really it would be teh best way to ensure to not meddle with the existing electrical system...........a big plus when claiming warrantee on possible problems.... |
dam you people have got me confused. ill stick to my Sounddomain readings. lucly im im only going to be running about 500 watts |
Sound Domain is a great knowlege center.. as is Termpro and Elitecaraudio.com.. Carsound has a lot of old pro's and alot of newbies and not too many (but some) Serious competitors..it's a good place but..I prefer SD.. BTW.. know a fellow named Boomhorse on Sound domain.. Great guy..Knows his stuff.. I hear he drives a VPP civic sedan too.. he he he Cheers Mohawk:):) |
Whoa there, Carsound is THE home of the cream of the crop in car audio competition today....Gary Biggs, Steven Head, Scott Buwalda, Mark Eldridge, Jose Perez, Rick McCallum, Eric Fitzgerald...the list goes on and on. Carsound is where you will find extremely accurate information from intelligent and mature competitors who know what they are doing and are doing it VERY well, especially in the IASCA & USACI forums. |
And the Beat Goes on.. I Have the memory retention of a dead cat sometimes he he.. as for the 8 Guage wire for over 50 amps of current.. it's safe yes.. it can be done yes.. Reccomended.. no because of the actual resistance per foot of 8 gauge wire in comparison to 4 gauge.. by using the smaller wire your adding more unnecessary resisitance which draws a wee bit more current..so on that point.. tis done..4 if better but 8 can be used safely and without causing a fire form medium powered systems.. Eddie Runner as far as my knowlegde goes hasn;t posted anything about H.O Alts.. If you read my posts about the H.O alts.. I geneally add to be safe it's better to gow the the H/O alternator.. Yes a stock can keep up.. but are you 100% Sure.. alot of people burned out alts over and over again.. Not very many but some have fried their ECU's.. For Bigtim competitors all having H.O Alts.. well in Street yeah.. in Super Street not as often as most run Many batteries and don't power off the alternator.. As a matter of $$ goes...with big expenditures should come a bit of research and education to keep everything safe and reliable....running craploads of power on a stock electrical system can work.. usually will..but for how long..and is it worth chancing it.. Fry an alternator and a dealer sees some huge amps in your trunk..hey. they write Honda America or Honda canada a report.. and they no longer cover your electrical system warranty...Wanna chahnce that one?... Also Who verbally slandered you.. nrrhgreg?? Read that carefully he was making a comment for you to take it easy and be a little more easy going about your posts.... Don;t get too emotional and confrontation amigo.. It;s a forum....it's a forum to discuss and share ideas and knowledge and to learn through discussion.. Not through aggravated posts which your taking a bit too seriously.. I'd very much like for you to remain a memebr on this Forum you seem to know your stuff quite good...and you like to argue (altough you try debating a little more) other options nd opinions.. which is great..I'm not all-knowing nor are you..so far reading through our posts there's both points I can see Where I'm wrong as are you..I'm learning from this and broadening my knowledge... Reply and debate this... Don't make it a "heated" Arguement dude..I'm trying to discuss Ideas and theories and you'r making me fall into arguing with you..... Can't we all just get along [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. |
<< Whoa there, Carsound is THE home of the cream of the crop in car audio competition today....Gary Biggs, Steven Head, Scott Buwalda, Mark Eldridge, Jose Perez, Rick McCallum, Eric Fitzgerald...the list goes on and on. Carsound is where you will find extremely accurate information from intelligent and mature competitors who know what they are doing and are doing it VERY well, especially in the IASCA & USACI forums. >> the cavalry has arrived! haha! alot of ppl dont like termpro casue, like indybBS, the mods are from nazi germany. anyone wanna see what im talking about, go there, and post a thread about how terrible Image Dynamics is. I guess they know their stuff..... best audio forum is CAF, the people there know their stuff, not too many SPL competitors there, its mainly and SQ board, but there are a couple of people there who have forgotten more about caraudio than ill ver know [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] i like sound domain's members pages tho, ANY install you can imagine, its there [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] |
""Don;t get too emotional and confrontation amigo.. It;s a forum....it's a forum to discuss and share ideas and knowledge and to learn through discussion.. Not through aggravated posts which your taking a bit too seriously.. I'd very much like for you to remain a memebr on this Forum you seem to know your stuff quite good...and you like to argue (altough you try debating a little more) other options nd opinions.. which is great..I'm not all-knowing nor are you..so far reading through our posts there's both points I can see Where I'm wrong as are you..I'm learning from this and broadening my knowledge..."" haha tell THAT to the bastids at indybbs LOL [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] sooooooooooooooooooo ........... does boom horse have three W6 in his civic, hitting mid 140's, by chance, in or near new york? |
No Boomhorse has 2 (1 blown Audiomobile EVO-R) hitting low 150's lives just outside of Montreal..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] |
oh different person then. =/ |
<< Whoa there, Carsound is THE home of the cream of the crop in car audio competition today....Gary Biggs, Steven Head, Scott Buwalda, Mark Eldridge, Jose Perez, Rick McCallum, Eric Fitzgerald...the list goes on and on. Carsound is where you will find extremely accurate information from intelligent and mature competitors who know what they are doing and are doing it VERY well, especially in the IASCA & USACI forums. >> See I'm not always right lol..I been to carsound quite a few times though and Very often the bigboys won;t grace people with their wisdom..(probably too busy) so the Forum may be home to the nig namers..but in ym experiance.. often times they aren't much help past the threads they started to educate people.. Like my post on this topic..and Rick is a great help but he's quite busy.. Specially since he's been getting a lot of Raam Mat Orders recently for some reason [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..and he's working on his new Matrix....or letting it e a guinea pig for a turbo.. a CAI, an SRI.. a Coil-over kit.. and Exhaust system.. lol.. poor fella..I'd wanna cry seeing my car used for experiments.. but hey Sponsorship has it's goodies and baddies.. I wish I was sponsored..lol |
<< oh different person then. =/ >> Boomhorse lives 45 minutes from Plattsburgh NY used to have 3 10w6's ported in his Hyundai Sonata hittin low mid 14's with a PPI PC2600 [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].... that was like dayum. little over 2 years ago though.. BTW.. Mohawkboomhorse is Me.. |
*shrug*, the guy i know has three W6 in the back of a civic, pulling mid 140's with 400 watts TOTAL to the three [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] thought id ask, cause that guy knows his stuff [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] |
A Sonata's a midsized sedan.. little harder to crank Big SPL [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]....even in my Civic sedan it's not the best SPL car.. sheetmatals too weak mostly...Hatches tend to work better..Even coupes have better SPL properties.. less air leaks and moving parts.. |
but you gotta admit the civic's one saving grace is the fantastic bass transfer........ [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] |
Well, you've already sated your opinion about Richard Clark (mantioned this to the mods at CAF, they pitched in "So he admits he doesn't know what he's talking about, and that he isn't very experienced with audio equipment or high wattage stereos at all" =/) apparently, Richard Clark had a thunderbird with a stock 70 amp alternator running four MTX 2300's, no problem =/ anyways, I know youll take it with a pinch of salt, but I found the infamous richard clark page where he discisses it, there is also a new page where he upps that number to 3000 watts. http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimate...12;t=000285;p= i cant believe i read this whole thing. actually this post is basically just about how caps are completely useless in a system. and I understand why you dont like Richard Clark, he is pretty high and mighty! however he has forgotten more about caraudio than you and I will ever know, combined [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG] I cant believe i read every single word of that thread! :eek: there goes 1 hr 10 min of my life...informative tho. It looks like your math was almost fully correct, tho. exept teh duty cycle for music is 10-20%, and bigger cable is reccommended due to inductive reactance, not due to resistance. (now what is inductive reactance)[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG] http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=1;t=015058 another really good post, you say youve gotten alot of messed up ECU's, im starting to wonder if it really WAS the stereo's fault for its destuction, and if it was, would a HO alternator really help? dang, alot of time and effort went into this post. not to mention teh original cap post [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG] |
"now what is inductive reactance" Reactive inductance is a reactive load from the reactive resistance from voice coils [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..it's resistance worded more descriptively [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. I'm at work till 8pm tonight Eastern time so I'll read that book later..thanks for the link tho..and Richard clark has not forgotten mroe than we'll ever know.. as a new internet generation we have the shared resources and combined knowledge available of all the old timers, all the current stars, alot of the new up and comers..tons of things the old guys never had at their disposal..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]. so gimme till I'm 30.. I'll know more than richard has ever forgotten.. gimme till I'm 40 I'll crush him [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]... but by then I'll be a megalomaniac too Cheers Mohawk |
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