Inverter in the trunk
Inverter in the trunk
Hi everybody.
My plan is to connect inverter in the trunk for my laptop.
Question #1, How do i make sure it goes off when ignition is off?
(I thought maybe somehow use the remote wire that goes to my amp, will that overload anything?)
Question #2, how much load can our stock alternators take? I got 600 FakeWatts amplifier and 1000 FakeWatts sub connected, plus some POS fog lights.
Thanks for all the help
My plan is to connect inverter in the trunk for my laptop.
Question #1, How do i make sure it goes off when ignition is off?
(I thought maybe somehow use the remote wire that goes to my amp, will that overload anything?)
Question #2, how much load can our stock alternators take? I got 600 FakeWatts amplifier and 1000 FakeWatts sub connected, plus some POS fog lights.
Thanks for all the help
Last edited by hexed; Apr 24, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
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well for a lappy u may need a 250 or so watt inverter. not a lot
they are designed to run off the lighter plug. so you can do that. I did. just add wires behind and run to trunk.
other wise u will need a relay of some sort.
my 200 watt ran a xbox just fine with no drain ont he system i could notice.
they are designed to run off the lighter plug. so you can do that. I did. just add wires behind and run to trunk.
other wise u will need a relay of some sort.
my 200 watt ran a xbox just fine with no drain ont he system i could notice.
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Why waits power and make your alt work harder. Your car is already a dc voltage which is what your lap top needs.. A better idea would be to creat a dc to dc converter for less heat, less waste of gas, and so on and so forth, just a thought.
Originally Posted by TransformedBG
Why waits power and make your alt work harder. Your car is already a dc voltage which is what your lap top needs.. A better idea would be to creat a dc to dc converter for less heat, less waste of gas, and so on and so forth, just a thought.

I think I can use this
But again... I need to figure a way to shut the whole thing off when ignition is OFF, because this thing is going to be in the trunk.
any ideas on that?
Setup a relay off your remote wire. Use a distribution block with your power wire running to your amps to split it 3 way, 2 to your amps and one to a relay. Use the remote wire as a trigger for your relay, and the extra lead from your distribution amp as the constant. The output can drive your remote wires to your amps as well as an inverter, and will cut on and off with the vehicle. However, this may introduce some noise, etc, that will need to be worked out...
Ya, another good idea would be a DC>DC inverter. Find out what specs your laptop power block's output is (7.5VDC @ 2.3AMPS for example) and then get a DC>DC inverter that outputs at those spec's. I just figured a DC>AC inverter would be more widely used as you could plug a variety of devices into it.
Ya, another good idea would be a DC>DC inverter. Find out what specs your laptop power block's output is (7.5VDC @ 2.3AMPS for example) and then get a DC>DC inverter that outputs at those spec's. I just figured a DC>AC inverter would be more widely used as you could plug a variety of devices into it.
Last edited by free_refil; Apr 25, 2006 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
in order for it to shut off with the ignition you need to wire the 12v+ to the ignition wire under the steering column which is Black/yellow. then ground the invertor anywhere in the trunk area. You will need at least a 10 guage wire to run from front to back and make sure you fuse it. If you hook it up to your remote wire it will not support the voltage, and if you use a relay off the remote wire from your stereo then your stereo must be turned on so that you can get power to your invertor.
the stock alt puts out about 80 amps max.
the stock alt puts out about 80 amps max.
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Bassically 1 relay, and you will never have to worry about what your remote wire can handel. Just make sure you get a decent relay, and 10 gauge wire, a fues and walla!
Originally Posted by TransformedBG
Bassically 1 relay, and you will never have to worry about what your remote wire can handel. Just make sure you get a decent relay, and 10 gauge wire, a fues and walla!I don't understand the marks on releys =(
The relay itself is a small plastic box. On the bottom of it are connectors. Those are the black lines on the picture. They are like connectors on your subwoofers or speakers. You get female spade connectors to connect to them, or they sell sockets that the relays plug into, and the sockets have wires for each connector comming out of them. I always use female spade connectors because it's easier than buying a socket and cheaper. You can get them at radioshack, or ebay, or anywheres, just search for 12v relay.
Originally Posted by free_refil
The relay itself is a small plastic box. On the bottom of it are connectors. Those are the black lines on the picture. They are like connectors on your subwoofers or speakers. You get female spade connectors to connect to them, or they sell sockets that the relays plug into, and the sockets have wires for each connector comming out of them. I always use female spade connectors because it's easier than buying a socket and cheaper. You can get them at radioshack, or ebay, or anywheres, just search for 12v relay.
What I mean is he has those "85a" marks on the diagram.
I thought i need a specific voltage/amper rating on the relay?
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those are just numbers.. so i could be like connect 30 to fan. but you need a 12 volt relay that can be picked up at radio shack or an electronic parts store. Just ask them for the highest amp rating they have.
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