do i need extra battery or cap on this setup
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do i need extra battery or cap on this setup
i have Audiobahn A2300HCT
Audiobahn A2300HCT 2 Channel High Current 2400W RMS Amp
High Current Circuitry
PVM MOSFET Power Supply
Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
S/N Ratio: >100dB
Frequency Response: 10Hz-40,000Hz (+/- 1dB)
Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight *****
Variable 24dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz-750Hz
Variable 24dB Low-pass Crossover: 30Hz-120Hz
Variable Bass Boost: 0-18dB
Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz-100Hz
Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz-45Hz
RCA Throughput Connections
4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset
Dual Cooling Fans
VU Meters Indicating Output Response
Cobalt Blue Illumination
High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
Dimensions: 3-11/16"H x 12"W x 25-9/16"H
4 Ohm Stereo: 300 X 2 Watts
2 Ohm Stereo: 600 X 2 Watts
1 Ohm Stereo: 1200 X 2 Watts
4 Ohm Mono: 600 X 1 Watts
2 Ohm Mono: 1200 X 1 Watts
1 Ohm Mono: 2400 X 1 Watts
and 2 2004 KICKER S12L7 12
Power Handling (RMS): 1500 Watt Total (750 Watt Each Sub)
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m): 87.4
Voice Coil (in.): 2.0
Xmax (in.): .52
Mounting Cutout (in.): 11.2 x 11.2
Outer Flange (in.): 12.54 x 12.54
Mounting Depth (in.): 6.81
if i just get cap would it work or new battery....
plz help me out.....also how should put in trunk...i mean layout....
also i hve 4 screen and 5th one in dash dvd....also...
Audiobahn A2300HCT 2 Channel High Current 2400W RMS Amp
High Current Circuitry
PVM MOSFET Power Supply
Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
S/N Ratio: >100dB
Frequency Response: 10Hz-40,000Hz (+/- 1dB)
Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight *****
Variable 24dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz-750Hz
Variable 24dB Low-pass Crossover: 30Hz-120Hz
Variable Bass Boost: 0-18dB
Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz-100Hz
Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz-45Hz
RCA Throughput Connections
4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset
Dual Cooling Fans
VU Meters Indicating Output Response
Cobalt Blue Illumination
High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
Dimensions: 3-11/16"H x 12"W x 25-9/16"H
4 Ohm Stereo: 300 X 2 Watts
2 Ohm Stereo: 600 X 2 Watts
1 Ohm Stereo: 1200 X 2 Watts
4 Ohm Mono: 600 X 1 Watts
2 Ohm Mono: 1200 X 1 Watts
1 Ohm Mono: 2400 X 1 Watts
and 2 2004 KICKER S12L7 12
Power Handling (RMS): 1500 Watt Total (750 Watt Each Sub)
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m): 87.4
Voice Coil (in.): 2.0
Xmax (in.): .52
Mounting Cutout (in.): 11.2 x 11.2
Outer Flange (in.): 12.54 x 12.54
Mounting Depth (in.): 6.81
if i just get cap would it work or new battery....
plz help me out.....also how should put in trunk...i mean layout....
also i hve 4 screen and 5th one in dash dvd....also...
only time u need an extra battery is when u are using the stuff with the car off. caps under 4uf are useless too. if it's pulling a lot of current, u may want to think about an upgarded alternator.
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ok so if get better alternator...and get
POWER ACOUSTIK 3 Farad
will be ok ?? or get two of this...or two cap with 2farad each??
**** and the setup i got is good ok or best ??? ***** too loud?
POWER ACOUSTIK 3 Farad
will be ok ?? or get two of this...or two cap with 2farad each??
**** and the setup i got is good ok or best ??? ***** too loud?
Last edited by jay78; Aug 9, 2005 at 09:52 PM.
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Originally Posted by Derek-CEO
only time u need an extra battery is when u are using the stuff with the car off. caps under 4uf are useless too. if it's pulling a lot of current, u may want to think about an upgarded alternator.
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 786 










my altenrator has kept up fine over the past year. I don't really BUMP my music a lot, but my car sucks a lot of power... head unit, video, 2 amps etc etc
Leave the stock battery up front. Add this in the back and you are all set.http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SPV35-DC...QQcmdZViewItem
I have that battery setup. And i ran my 5 tv's, JL 1000/1, kicker 300.4 and this is at night with no problem..
I have that battery setup. And i ran my 5 tv's, JL 1000/1, kicker 300.4 and this is at night with no problem..
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: B.C., Canada
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any group 34/78 battery will work fine. the optima is the same size as the exide 34xcd, both will fit, no modifications needed. here's what mine looks like:
ok, answer this question:
How much listening do you do when the car is running? and when it is not running. in percentage.
ie. 90% when running, 10% not running
1Farad caps are useless, they can't hold enough juice for today's music. You need at a minimum 4Farad IF u want one.
Battery are used ONLY and I mean only, for starting the car and for listening to the radio or using lights, power stuff when the car is off, otherwise you are running off the alternator which has to also do double duty by recharging the battery.
The civic alternators are rated for something like 60amps. Your a/c or rear defroster pulls about 15-20amps if I remember correctly, then your alternator about the same, then add your headlights about 5, or if you have HID's 10 or so, then you start using your power windows etc. and ur computer and stuff, your left with almost nothing for your massive system.
So now your alternator is trying and trying to keep up with all the demand and will eventually die.
2 Scenarios:
You use the system more with car running then not:
1. Need upgraded alternator 120A minimum. Good one on eBay. I had it.
2. Need minimum 4gauge, 2gauge recommended from the alternator to battery. upgraded ground cable.
3. A good gel cell battery
You use the system more with car NOT running then not:
1. Need upgraded alternator 160A minimum Cause of extra batteries. Good one on eBay. I had it.
2. Need minimum 2gauge from the alternator to battery. upgraded ground cable.
3. A good gel cell battery for front and new gel battery for rear for listening with car off and a good battery isolater so the main starting battery does not get used when off.
4. 2 gauge to battery in rear. 2 gauge on ground.
Now, this is the ideal system if you want to do it right. If you want to do it not so right, then that is up to you. I had the second system cause I was a alot of shows. I also had a computer in the car with 10" sccreen, so it had to be running to show it off.
Note that I never had a CAP or CAP Bank. I was going to add one, 6uf, but never did.
This is just my advice after 4 years of trial and error with my civic and some nice trophies. I hit 144db at one show.
Anyway, I think this is my longest typed post in 4ever.
Remember to ALWAYS remove the ground cable from battery when working on the electrical system!!
D
edit: here is the alternator I had.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7991673963
How much listening do you do when the car is running? and when it is not running. in percentage.
ie. 90% when running, 10% not running
1Farad caps are useless, they can't hold enough juice for today's music. You need at a minimum 4Farad IF u want one.
Battery are used ONLY and I mean only, for starting the car and for listening to the radio or using lights, power stuff when the car is off, otherwise you are running off the alternator which has to also do double duty by recharging the battery.
The civic alternators are rated for something like 60amps. Your a/c or rear defroster pulls about 15-20amps if I remember correctly, then your alternator about the same, then add your headlights about 5, or if you have HID's 10 or so, then you start using your power windows etc. and ur computer and stuff, your left with almost nothing for your massive system.
So now your alternator is trying and trying to keep up with all the demand and will eventually die.
2 Scenarios:
You use the system more with car running then not:
1. Need upgraded alternator 120A minimum. Good one on eBay. I had it.
2. Need minimum 4gauge, 2gauge recommended from the alternator to battery. upgraded ground cable.
3. A good gel cell battery
You use the system more with car NOT running then not:
1. Need upgraded alternator 160A minimum Cause of extra batteries. Good one on eBay. I had it.
2. Need minimum 2gauge from the alternator to battery. upgraded ground cable.
3. A good gel cell battery for front and new gel battery for rear for listening with car off and a good battery isolater so the main starting battery does not get used when off.
4. 2 gauge to battery in rear. 2 gauge on ground.
Now, this is the ideal system if you want to do it right. If you want to do it not so right, then that is up to you. I had the second system cause I was a alot of shows. I also had a computer in the car with 10" sccreen, so it had to be running to show it off.
Note that I never had a CAP or CAP Bank. I was going to add one, 6uf, but never did.
This is just my advice after 4 years of trial and error with my civic and some nice trophies. I hit 144db at one show.
Anyway, I think this is my longest typed post in 4ever.
Remember to ALWAYS remove the ground cable from battery when working on the electrical system!!
D
edit: here is the alternator I had.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7991673963
Last edited by Derek-CEO; Aug 10, 2005 at 04:55 PM.
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
any group 34/78 battery will work fine. the optima is the same size as the exide 34xcd, both will fit, no modifications needed. here's what mine looks like:


Thread Starter
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i work 13hours a day...dont use subs in the morning way to my work...but
when i am going home at night i do...work 6days like that..sunday day off..but relly dont go out much....stay home and play with my 2yr son
when i am going home at night i do...work 6days like that..sunday day off..but relly dont go out much....stay home and play with my 2yr son
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