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dude just do the ground upgrade, its painfully simple, get over it

 
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i am. just researching more to discover the better grounds or locations.

 
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This is one dumbass reply. This guy CLEARL HAS NO IDEA what he is talking about and is not a tech ot had any clue how electrocity works. THICKER WIRES DECREASE RESISTANCE. running a 0 gauge = LESS RESISTANCE. moron. Hate people who talk out their ***.

 
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Ommggg more bad advice. I cant dude i cant 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Chassis engine trans ground are to provide stable voltage thought the electronics that sit in the respective components. You became a premium memeber by spitting bs?

 
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This is correct. Lower gauge (larger wire) would reduce resistance. Not that resistance in wires this short is meaningful so long as they are sized appropriately.
Sauce: lots of electrical engineering classes in undergrad, admittedly a long time ago. But physics hasn't changed much in that time.

 
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Ty. I wasnt tryna to be a *****, but just HATE IT when people give SHT advice that can potentially damage someones car. Imagine as a young kid following some "premium members" advice only to burn out your ecu becuase vtec yo!

 
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This thread is almost 20 years old.

 
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and yet here we are🤔

 
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Watching you cry behind a keyboard. It’s all good, man.

 
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Hi guys, newbie here.
Because our Civics ( my 05 does?) also have the power wire running from the battery to the starter should we also upgrade that or is it not necessary and just stick to the big 3?
Also can I just get a bigger sized terminal from Lordco to hold the two power cables due to new size cable or what exactly am I looking for to correctly do this?
Thanks for any help.
​​​​​​

 
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If your car starts fine, then no, zero need to replace it. Grounds are what you want to address.

 
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Ok thanks but I am doing the battery to alt cable as well. Will 1/0 fit in the stock terminal with the starter cable?
I Have 2 amps coming is why.
Sorry I just don't understand how the new power cable and stock starter cable should sit together on the positive post if the power cable is 1/0.Stock connector will still fit both or do I get a new connector or use copper lugs that will fit the battery post and stack them?
Stupid newbs eh! LOL

 
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I think you might be getting ahead of yourself. Are you doing some crazy car audio or something else that you expect a huge electrical load?

I think you might be throwing your money at something that could be better spent elsewhere.

 
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Yes stereo and having better conductors can never hurt especially since it's still all stock wiring.

 
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In that case, just add a ground line from engine to frame, and another one to the frame at the amps. Upgrade your positive terminal to support a power line for both your amps, and you will be fine. No need to upgrade any of the "car side" power wiring.

Speaking from experience, I ran a 12" alpine type r and a 500w sub using a ring terminal on the positive terminal nut. You will be fine.

 
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I'll be running 2 amps which will be over 500 watts RMS.

 
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Again, thats ok. No need to play with the power side of your wiring on the car.

 
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Ok thanks. Is the power side an issue, hard to do or just a waste of time? Wondering because you keep steering me away from it and you have more experience than I do!

 
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Waste of time and money. Even if you upgraded your wiring, you would still be limited by your alternators output, among other things. All that matters is your power has a clean path to travel and isn't grossly undersized.

Now if you were running a bunch of sensors that were dependent on a good battery ground connection, then we would be having a different conversation.

 
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Ok Thank You

 
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I don't know if he still does them, but you can PM the thread starter here:
I bought my kit from him.
PM electric130, so he will receive the request. He is still around in here.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...kits-sale.html

 
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Ok thanks! Super Helpful I appreciate it! Hopefully he is still doing this!!

 
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Does anyone know the measurements of the cables?? Mr Electric?? Still have the kits??