Need wiring help!
Do you mean to keep your stock speakers?
I don't understand why people hang out in these forums if they are going to flame Honda or Civics
If you don't like your honda, why are you in a civic forum asking for help?
Originally Posted by Dainfamous
Honda's are like Nokia's..When you hook them up they still suck!!! lol
getting a rsx hehe...buh bye 7th gen..say hello to DC5 hehe
getting a rsx hehe...buh bye 7th gen..say hello to DC5 hehe
If you don't like your honda, why are you in a civic forum asking for help?
Where are you placing the amp, under the seat or in the trunk? You could do it that way you, but the recommended way would be to run them individually to each speaker. Just keep in mind the farther you mount it, you should compensate for larger gauge wire or aka thicker wire.
Also something to think about, if you were to mount it in the trunk and run a large gauge wire then connect it to a much smaller wire (stock wiring) which then continues to travel all the way thru the car to its designated location - it would work but that is kind of half
. But if you already said it is aftermarket and they ran new wire to the speakers...then there shouldn't be a problem with connecting it that way-it is essentially the same thing
Also something to think about, if you were to mount it in the trunk and run a large gauge wire then connect it to a much smaller wire (stock wiring) which then continues to travel all the way thru the car to its designated location - it would work but that is kind of half
. But if you already said it is aftermarket and they ran new wire to the speakers...then there shouldn't be a problem with connecting it that way-it is essentially the same thing Last edited by XVR4667; Oct 9, 2004 at 03:24 AM.
If you have component speakers with xovers: Run 8-4awg depending on the amp power wire from the battery pos terminal to your amp. Run an 8-4awg ground wire to a bare metal spot on the chassis, close to the amp. Run the remote turn-on to the remote turn on wire to the deck or to a wire that is hot when the ignition is on. Run RCA cables to the rear of the deck rcas. Run these away from the power cable, on the other side of the car perhaps. Run something like 16-14awg speaker wire from the amp to the xovers, then from the xovers to the speakers.
If you have coaxials: follow above steps except run speaker wire from the amps directly to your speakers.
Hope that helps, I was bit confused as to what exactly you needed to know.
If you have coaxials: follow above steps except run speaker wire from the amps directly to your speakers.
Hope that helps, I was bit confused as to what exactly you needed to know.
man i hope ur a very fast learner..
speaker cables i use is 18awg..i use a 25 ft monster audio cable
1.ok u cut the audio wire from the deck away from the front speakers so the front speak is not connected to the deck audio out u should do all this in the HEAD UNIT not the doors. cut out the audio wire that generate sounds to ur FRONT and REAR speakers
2.u run a long SPEAKER cables..i think mind was a 18awg ..
3.drag it to the amp front SPEAKER INPUT(left front)(right front)
4.the deck has preouts depend on how many. i have 3 so i plug it to the amp front input (using a 25ft monster audio cable) (L,R)
5.so u need 1 more preout for the rear...do the same for the front but plug it in REAR input (L,R)
6.so now just drag speaker cable at the rear SPEAKER INPUT to the amp
i hope that help out
if ne1 have better translation that would b gr8t
chug a lug
speaker cables i use is 18awg..i use a 25 ft monster audio cable
1.ok u cut the audio wire from the deck away from the front speakers so the front speak is not connected to the deck audio out u should do all this in the HEAD UNIT not the doors. cut out the audio wire that generate sounds to ur FRONT and REAR speakers
2.u run a long SPEAKER cables..i think mind was a 18awg ..
3.drag it to the amp front SPEAKER INPUT(left front)(right front)
4.the deck has preouts depend on how many. i have 3 so i plug it to the amp front input (using a 25ft monster audio cable) (L,R)
5.so u need 1 more preout for the rear...do the same for the front but plug it in REAR input (L,R)
6.so now just drag speaker cable at the rear SPEAKER INPUT to the amp
i hope that help out
if ne1 have better translation that would b gr8t
chug a lug Last edited by 2slow2run; Oct 12, 2004 at 01:23 AM.
like other man said i didnt even noe they make audio output for stock deck lol
c my icon? thats where all the wire is comming from...not no stupid door
2 complicate to work wit AND u need a block long of wires lol
c my icon? thats where all the wire is comming from...not no stupid door
2 complicate to work wit AND u need a block long of wires lol
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Ok, condensed version:
Assuming you have components, as you said 2 side speakers and rear:
Wire up amp (power, ground, rca's, remote)
Fronts:
Channel 1 positive to positive input on crossover 1
Channel 1 negetive to negative input on crossover 1
(Hook up crossover to appropruiate connections for that door pos/neg output to pos/neg output to corresponding mid and tweet, will be labeled)
Channel 2 positive to pos input on crossover 2
Channel 2 neg to neg input on crossover 2
(Same as other side)
Rear:
Channel 3 pos to pos input on co/triaxial 1
Channel 3 neg to neg input on co/triax 1
Channel 4 pos to pos input on co/triax 2
Channel 4 neg to neg input on co/triax 2
Also, replace the stock wiring, go to a larger gauge. To get it in the doors, use something such as a coat hanger to run it through the grommet that's there from the factory. Silicone spray helps to get it through easier. It's worth the extra 5 minutes you'll spend on it, as the stock wire is small, britle, and cheap. And yes, before someone says it, I know wire is wire, but the gauge stock isn't really well suited for amping IMO.
And yes, you can hook up an amp to a stock deck for the person that was confused. Requires line out/hi level invertor.
Assuming you have components, as you said 2 side speakers and rear:
Wire up amp (power, ground, rca's, remote)
Fronts:
Channel 1 positive to positive input on crossover 1
Channel 1 negetive to negative input on crossover 1
(Hook up crossover to appropruiate connections for that door pos/neg output to pos/neg output to corresponding mid and tweet, will be labeled)
Channel 2 positive to pos input on crossover 2
Channel 2 neg to neg input on crossover 2
(Same as other side)
Rear:
Channel 3 pos to pos input on co/triaxial 1
Channel 3 neg to neg input on co/triax 1
Channel 4 pos to pos input on co/triax 2
Channel 4 neg to neg input on co/triax 2
Also, replace the stock wiring, go to a larger gauge. To get it in the doors, use something such as a coat hanger to run it through the grommet that's there from the factory. Silicone spray helps to get it through easier. It's worth the extra 5 minutes you'll spend on it, as the stock wire is small, britle, and cheap. And yes, before someone says it, I know wire is wire, but the gauge stock isn't really well suited for amping IMO.
And yes, you can hook up an amp to a stock deck for the person that was confused. Requires line out/hi level invertor.
Last edited by PopcornPlaya; Oct 12, 2004 at 02:29 PM.
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