Rep Power: 379

I'm currently running imaged fiberglassed kicks (Diamond Audio Hex 6.5's and silk tweets) with Passives only. The reason is simply because I just haven't installed a 1/3 Octave EQ yet. Even so, The sounds seems to be about 4 in. above the dash and I still haven't installed my alum. dome tweets in the a-pillars. You can defineitely tell that passives aren't enough because of the "muddy" sound it has without. I still plan on venting the kicks into the rail as well. However, they still punch hard being sealed and powered by a JL 300/2.

 
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itll work with passive filters, too

 
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It seems like it doesn't work too well for my system, don't know why.....

 
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I flipped the midbass on the driver's side and the midrange on passenger side
That's the best configuration I can get
But after that, when I do active 12dB/Oct HP on the system and 24dB/Oct for sub it just sound sucks....The lower the XO freq I go, the worse it is going to be.....

 
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Anybody have these tracks from the 1999 Iasac competition CD

4. 4-Instructions for Tracks 5-7; Tonal Accuracy & Balance
8. 8-Instructions for Tracks 9-12; Staging Tests
29. 29-Unlimited SPL Instructions

 
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I think the 01 IASCA is the same, right?
I have the 01 disc....

 
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What I think is this:

To buy a Universal Q-form instead of Q-form made for Civic, then mount the Q-form vertical against the factory Civic kick panel.....

Researches suggest that human year is more sensitive in horizontal array....So I further conclude that by Q-form FOR Civic, which has the tweeters placed in HORIZONTAL array with the mid....I will suggest that this kind of placement does not give a very nice sound stage since human year will detect the sound from the tweeter out of range from the mid. You may not agree with me, but having the tweeter mounted vertical with the mid is the way to go.

 
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you wont be able to choose your own speaker angles with that Q form. I agree that one way to go is certainly having the tweet below the mid, but I think the universal Qform isnt the best way of going about accomplishing that....

 
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You'd have better luck building MDF baffles and using metal strips to help acheive your angles.

 
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I hear that you want to mount the tweeter behind the mid (i.e in kicks have the tweet closer to the firewall than the mid.

 
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I've heard that the best set up for kick is to arrange it so it looks like a bookshelf speaker, with the tweeter point to be more on-axis......

 
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ive heard vehicles that have the tweeter in all these positions.

what works best is different in every car. in front, behind, below. there is no universal solution.

In my car, with the tweet above the mid, which is not the universally suggested way to install a tweeter in a kickpanel. the image has a great horizon concerning height, as long as the listener is shorter than six feet tall.

also consider teh dependance on how well teh tweeter works on or off axis, how much the steering colum interferres with imaging, how much the underdash inerferres with imaging, and how much you have the ability to change the direction the tweeter fires as well as its position.

so what may work for you may not work for someone else......

 
Rep Power: 379

Very true. We spend all this time talking about imaging which most consider to be on or off axis, but in reality reflection and path length play a huge roll as well. The surface under our dashes in not equal on both sides. I still never installed velvet under the dash but I hear it works well. Our cars are so small that any reflection seems to cause a huge amount of amplification.

 
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So any suggestion for working on those area? I know that placing the tweeter on the factory sail panel on EX is bad, because the passenger side tweeter points directly toward the driver's side glass, creating strong mirror effect....

 
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I traded my EX tweets with the blank garnish piece from the LX's. Put your silks in the kicks (or mount seperates in front of your midbass in the door ) and if you can throw another set in the apillars almost facing each other but bring them down otherwise they'll be way too bright.

 
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I have the LX piece in place of my EX sail.....

My textile tweet is in kick

I tried a pillar tweeter, cross fired, crossed at 12.5k, and put a 8.2ohm resistor in line....still too bright.....

 
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If you have an equalizer you probably should have dropped 4k by 4db. But its kind of late now that you don't have them in the a pillar now

 
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I think that may be part of your problem.

if you put a resistor in line, that changes the crossover frequency of the driver.

often times speakers become terrible sounding, or become muddy, bright, messy, sloppy, harsh, etc. when the improper crossover and gain settings are used.

I would start there rather than positioning.

 
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I have a question. Since the whole thing was brought up about running two sets of tweets, what do you guys think about running two different types of tweets? hard domes low and soft domes high?

I kinda screwed myself and drilled holes in the door panels for my tweeters and can't really pull them out and have 1" holes there (I could, but I would rather not).

Also, what if I were to run just the mid in a kick and the tweet in the door panel (next to door handle) or would I run into really bad phasing problems that way?

 
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you can always leave the tweets in there disconnected. a good system with be transparent to the actual spekaer locations, so noone will be able to tell they are off till they stick their head next to them.

"are these things playing??..."

"....... ...of course they are!"