wiring diagrams
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wiring diagrams
does anyone know where to get wiring diagrams for our cars? i need the pin outs for the fog light switch but wiring diagrams would be useful in the future im sure too. anyone know where to get a haynes manual for the 7thgens yet?
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Originally Posted by Kape
Yeah, I need the wiring diagrams too in order to figure out why my DRL doesn't work with HID kit.
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Originally Posted by tacheon
DRL doesn't work on your vehicle because it was designed for incandescent bulbs. When DRL is activated, it's not supplying full power to the low beam terminals. That makes DRL incandescents look dimmer than when you flip the switch to the on position. This will not supply enough power to your transformer to flip on your HID lights. I really don't see why you're concerned about getting DRL to work on your vehicle anyhow. I'm pretty sure HID conversions are illegal in Canada so not having DRL is pretty inconsequential. The housing/reflector assembly wasn't designed for HID so as a result, you'll get a sharp beam cutoff at the edges.
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Rep Power: 0 Dang you're snippy and rude. Low/High, why does it matter, it's still not working. Yes you can rewire a relay to supply full voltage to the low terminals with a relay. Get a standard relay wire the High terminal to 86, ground 85, hook 87 to a fused +12, 30 spliced into your low terminal. Heatshrink everything or put it in a weatherproof project box. There you go. Fake daytime running lights with aftermarket HID.
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Rep Power: 0 Sorry for being rude, I'm just frustrated and a lot of people seem to post just for the heck of it. You know, I ask how to fix the problem, and I get people saing they wish they had the money to buy HIDs too; how does that help me, you know?
Anyway, thanks for you advice, however; first you got be wrong, and second, I don't understand the electrician mumbo jumbo.
I don’t want the low beams to be at full power as DRL, I’m fine with the OEM high beam setup at 6V. But as I said, it only works in one headlight. It’s really strange. As long as the DRL does not come on first, the HIDs work fine. If the DRL comes on before I turn the HIDs on, only one HID works.
In any case, I went to Honda today and got the wiring diagrams for the headlights, but they are a lot more complex than I anticipated. What I can do is scan them and post them, and if you can understand them, maybe you can help.
Anyway, thanks for you advice, however; first you got be wrong, and second, I don't understand the electrician mumbo jumbo.
I don’t want the low beams to be at full power as DRL, I’m fine with the OEM high beam setup at 6V. But as I said, it only works in one headlight. It’s really strange. As long as the DRL does not come on first, the HIDs work fine. If the DRL comes on before I turn the HIDs on, only one HID works.
In any case, I went to Honda today and got the wiring diagrams for the headlights, but they are a lot more complex than I anticipated. What I can do is scan them and post them, and if you can understand them, maybe you can help.
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Rep Power: 0 I have the schematics for the entire vehicle. Looking at it now. I don't think you have a better one than the one I got from the factory manual. I don't understand the problem you are having. You don't want low beams to be at full power? I think that's your only option because 6V is probably way too low to fire your ballast. My instructions above were to feed +12V to your ballasts so it would be at full power. I don't think aftermarket HID can support lower intensity DRL as they were probably not designed with that in mind. You may be shortening the life of your ballast and tube by not fixing it.
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Rep Power: 0 OK, I gotta explain this better. I have TYCs in the car, and the TYCs came with a splitter that splits the H4 connector into 4 wires, two blacks, one red and one blue. One black and the red go to the high beam. The other black and the blue used to go to the low beam, but I’ve connected them to the HID ballast. Now, before the HIDs everything worked as it should, DRL was 6V in the high beam, and high/low beams worked fine. After installing the HIDs, this is what happens:
If I start the car with the parking break on, DRLs should not go on, and they don’t. Then if I turn the low beams on, the HIDs come on, as they should. If I put the high beams on, the high and low (HIDs) stay on.
If I start the car with the parking break off, DRLs should come on, and they do. Then if I turn the low beams on, only the right HID comes on, and the DRLs go off, as they should.
So at first I just took the DRL fuse out, then I realized I can put it back, but… if I’m driving and it’s getting dark, I would have to pull over, turn my car off, and start it back up with the parking break on, turn the HIDs on, then proceed.
As you can see, the whole thing is strange. I tested all the prongs for the lights with a voltmeter, but I got even more confused. Some guys on the Toronto Civic Club claim that all I have to do is take one of the prongs out and connect something to something else, but they won’t say what and want $100 to install it, which is bs.
Anyway, I hope the long post gives you clues as to what might be happening, and let me know if you can help.
If I start the car with the parking break on, DRLs should not go on, and they don’t. Then if I turn the low beams on, the HIDs come on, as they should. If I put the high beams on, the high and low (HIDs) stay on.
If I start the car with the parking break off, DRLs should come on, and they do. Then if I turn the low beams on, only the right HID comes on, and the DRLs go off, as they should.
So at first I just took the DRL fuse out, then I realized I can put it back, but… if I’m driving and it’s getting dark, I would have to pull over, turn my car off, and start it back up with the parking break on, turn the HIDs on, then proceed.
As you can see, the whole thing is strange. I tested all the prongs for the lights with a voltmeter, but I got even more confused. Some guys on the Toronto Civic Club claim that all I have to do is take one of the prongs out and connect something to something else, but they won’t say what and want $100 to install it, which is bs.
Anyway, I hope the long post gives you clues as to what might be happening, and let me know if you can help.
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Rep Power: 306 If you pm me your email address I can send you a pdf copy of the diagrams you seek.
Won't be back until Monday, but I have already scanned them.
And if you want the master books, they are available at www.helminc.com
Won't be back until Monday, but I have already scanned them.
And if you want the master books, they are available at www.helminc.com
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Originally Posted by Kape
OK, I gotta explain this better. I have TYCs in the car, and the TYCs came with a splitter that splits the H4 connector into 4 wires, two blacks, one red and one blue. One black and the red go to the high beam. The other black and the blue used to go to the low beam, but I’ve connected them to the HID ballast. Now, before the HIDs everything worked as it should, DRL was 6V in the high beam, and high/low beams worked fine. After installing the HIDs, this is what happens:
If I start the car with the parking break on, DRLs should not go on, and they don’t. Then if I turn the low beams on, the HIDs come on, as they should. If I put the high beams on, the high and low (HIDs) stay on.
If I start the car with the parking break off, DRLs should come on, and they do. Then if I turn the low beams on, only the right HID comes on, and the DRLs go off, as they should.
So at first I just took the DRL fuse out, then I realized I can put it back, but… if I’m driving and it’s getting dark, I would have to pull over, turn my car off, and start it back up with the parking break on, turn the HIDs on, then proceed.
As you can see, the whole thing is strange. I tested all the prongs for the lights with a voltmeter, but I got even more confused. Some guys on the Toronto Civic Club claim that all I have to do is take one of the prongs out and connect something to something else, but they won’t say what and want $100 to install it, which is bs.
Anyway, I hope the long post gives you clues as to what might be happening, and let me know if you can help.
If I start the car with the parking break on, DRLs should not go on, and they don’t. Then if I turn the low beams on, the HIDs come on, as they should. If I put the high beams on, the high and low (HIDs) stay on.
If I start the car with the parking break off, DRLs should come on, and they do. Then if I turn the low beams on, only the right HID comes on, and the DRLs go off, as they should.
So at first I just took the DRL fuse out, then I realized I can put it back, but… if I’m driving and it’s getting dark, I would have to pull over, turn my car off, and start it back up with the parking break on, turn the HIDs on, then proceed.
As you can see, the whole thing is strange. I tested all the prongs for the lights with a voltmeter, but I got even more confused. Some guys on the Toronto Civic Club claim that all I have to do is take one of the prongs out and connect something to something else, but they won’t say what and want $100 to install it, which is bs.
Anyway, I hope the long post gives you clues as to what might be happening, and let me know if you can help.
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LOOK. I think somebody owes me some Silverstars 
I found a documented incident. And YES, my fix above should do the trick. You can also disable the DRL, but at the moment, I can't think of a way to do it without causing other problems (DRL malfunction light).
************************************************** ******
Problem:
In many cases, especially for those cars that have Auto "ON" or Daytime Running Lights; one or both light cannot Ignite Initially, Discharge Bulb turns off after just start the car, or even sometimes, bulb just turns off when driving.
Damage:
Fried ballast, internally damage or burn the discharge bulb Gas Capsule.
Solution:
You MUST Disconnect the Daytime Running Light or Auto Switch “ON” function immediately before the actual HID Conversion. Due to the Steady levels of battery voltage is required at 12V or Plus before the initial Ignites of each HID Systems; you must prohibit the less voltage draw of car battery at HID’s start time. Daytime Running Light is 7V or less power output, and auto switch on headlight is always turn on seconds right before the car to start the ignition to charge the battery, which means Battery is focus on charging the ignition and waiting for alternator to recharge it back to 12V. Therefore, in both situations, battery is drawing much less power than 12V to initially ignite the HID headlight. Please perform the following:
if you have Daytime Running Light please follow your car’s service manual; disconnect the fuse or wiring of Daytime Running lights only.
If you have Auto Switch “On” Headlights, please switch the function to Manual Switch “On” headlights. To avoid further damages, always remember to start your engine before turn on the HID system!
I found a documented incident. And YES, my fix above should do the trick. You can also disable the DRL, but at the moment, I can't think of a way to do it without causing other problems (DRL malfunction light).************************************************** ******
Problem:
In many cases, especially for those cars that have Auto "ON" or Daytime Running Lights; one or both light cannot Ignite Initially, Discharge Bulb turns off after just start the car, or even sometimes, bulb just turns off when driving.
Damage:
Fried ballast, internally damage or burn the discharge bulb Gas Capsule.
Solution:
You MUST Disconnect the Daytime Running Light or Auto Switch “ON” function immediately before the actual HID Conversion. Due to the Steady levels of battery voltage is required at 12V or Plus before the initial Ignites of each HID Systems; you must prohibit the less voltage draw of car battery at HID’s start time. Daytime Running Light is 7V or less power output, and auto switch on headlight is always turn on seconds right before the car to start the ignition to charge the battery, which means Battery is focus on charging the ignition and waiting for alternator to recharge it back to 12V. Therefore, in both situations, battery is drawing much less power than 12V to initially ignite the HID headlight. Please perform the following:
if you have Daytime Running Light please follow your car’s service manual; disconnect the fuse or wiring of Daytime Running lights only.
If you have Auto Switch “On” Headlights, please switch the function to Manual Switch “On” headlights. To avoid further damages, always remember to start your engine before turn on the HID system!
Originally Posted by rickinthescv
If you pm me your email address I can send you a pdf copy of the diagrams you seek.
Won't be back until Monday, but I have already scanned them.
And if you want the master books, they are available at www.helminc.com
Won't be back until Monday, but I have already scanned them.
And if you want the master books, they are available at www.helminc.com
email at modusvivendi67@aol.com
thanks
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Okay whatever was written above...HID doesn't work with drl and will probably ruin them. My kit says I can't use the hid without modification to the wiring in order to turn off drl.
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Originally Posted by vietfob714
I used a booster kit which gives normal bulbs more voltage and i hooked up the booster kit, then the HIDs and it works. I have an extra one if your interested.
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