Rep Power: 0

Howdy All

Newbie here.., thought I would join and use this as a repository / archive for a little project I'm working on


It'll help me keep things straight, and possibly others looking for answers

I've, in my research on these planned upgrades found a lot of misinformation posted (I'm talking all over the web) I keep it factual and if I don't know I'll post that as well

Mods if I've posted this in the wrong place, my apologies



Background

Purchased a Honda Civic coupe mid February, nothing special- a 5 speed w/ sun roof

The goal = 600 (reliable) HP (wife thinks I'm going through my 2nd childhood I told her I never left my first... besides I'm a gear head at heart)



=======================

In addition, purchased a DC5 Type R suspension.., and a wrecked donor 02 Honda civic (auto converted to manual) w/ a K20 6 speed

More on these two in a bit

=====================

Mods to the 04 so far;

Sound system

Tinted windows

Rear wing
Sun roof deflector

Installed Peal N Seal and Jute beneath the carpet and Peal N Seal in the doors (this significantly cut down on the vibration / external noise, and the Peal N Seal does not stink)

LED tail lights

Moved the battery to the trunk (low and centered) had to fab up a mounting bracket for the battery

Upgraded to an optima battery

Upgraded the front and rear sway bars

Installed a K-Tuned shifter (I love this shifter) also have the K-Tune shift cables

btw; if you plan to do a swap you don't need a different shifter the one you have (assuming you're starting out with a manual) will work just fine (one, of the many, misinformed bits of information i ran across)

But the difference between the K-Tuned shifter and the stock plastic one is night and day

Installed a Hurst shift handle (I'm old school)

Removed the trunk carpet and sprayed in tuff liner (think pickup bed liner)


.................................

Car upgrades remaining;

Adding a hood scoop (not for additional air in, but to exhaust hot air out of the engine bay) have the scoop, just need to cut a hole in the hood and mount it (heat kills motors and HP)

Adding HID halo headlights (This one is being a real PITA)

Fuel System; pulled the fuel tank from the donor car/ purchased a dual fuel pump hanger / and plumbing the 04 Honda w/ -6an SS feed and return lines.., full flow fuel filter/ regulator

Wiring up a dual relay harness to power the dual fuel pumps..., good news is, the stock fuel gauge sending unit bolts right up to the aftermarket hanger

The plan will be to drop the existing tank, bolt the modified one in then plug N play with the stock harness (the wires currently powering the existing fuel pump will power the relays feeding the aftermarket pumps)

===============

The DC 5 suspension

Came complete except for E Brake cables and Brake hoses

So far

Completely disassembled, cleaned, and painted it

Replaced all bushing w/ energy suspension (when removing the bushings I found that burning them out w/ an acetylene torch worked best even better than a press) yup used anti-seize on the new bushings

New Brake pads (btw the fronts take one kind, the rears a different)

Resurfaced the rotors (I got lucky and had more than enough material to do so)

Replaced the ball joints (they are bigger than the stock ones yeah I bought the wrong one initially)

Purchased some Ebrake cables and SS bake cables (the brake cables are tricky to find)

Refurbished the calipers (brembos)

New front bearings

New rear hubs

New longer ARP wheel studs all around

............................

Suspension upgrades remaining;

Waiting on the rear upper (adjustable), and rear lower control arms they've been on back order for over two weeks

Need to find 5 lug wheels with the proper offset (what I want may not work)

Wider tires and probably 16 inch

Will I eventually lower this car only if I think it'll improve handling otherwise I couldn't care less


=========================

Donor car

Originally was a 01 Civic, 4 door automatic that the PO had converted to manual, added a K20/ 6 speed/ sub frame/ honddata ECU/ hasport mounts

Unfortunately he rolled it and totaled the car then sold it to me

I yanked the motor/ trans/ subframe (btw for a Kswap you'll need the proper subframe) and hauled them off to the engine builder

The builder is sleeving it/ adding a girdle/ bigger rods/ port/polishing basically making it bullet proof block to head

Once installed he%u2019ll add a turbo and inter cooler

Head is finished/ block is still being machined

............................................

Motor items I need to get;

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler
Who knows

==========================

Pretty sure there is more, but it's late and I'm tired

Anyone have any thing(s) I need to be thinking about, please let me know otherwise I'll update this as progress is made

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Car upgrades remaining;

Adding a hood scoop (not for additional air in, but to exhaust hot air out of the engine bay) have the scoop, just need to cut a hole in the hood and mount it (heat kills motors and HP)

Adding HID halo headlights (This one is being a real PITA)

Fuel System; pulled the fuel tank from the donor car/ purchased a dual fuel pump hanger / and plumbing the 04 Honda w/ -6an SS feed and return lines.., full flow fuel filter/ regulator

Wiring up a dual relay harness to power the dual fuel pumps..., good news is, the stock fuel gauge sending unit bolts right up to the aftermarket hanger

The plan will be to drop the existing tank, bolt the modified one in then plug N play with the stock harness (the wires currently powering the existing fuel pump will power the relays feeding the aftermarket pumps)

Added;

Rained last night – first time since buying the car – trunk leaks – needs fixed

Windshield cracked from P side to D side along the bottom – may or may not replace it

……………………………………………

Suspension upgrades remaining;

Waiting on the rear upper (adjustable), and rear lower control arms they've been on back order for over two weeks

Need to find 5 lug wheels with the proper offset (what I want may not work)

Wider tires and probably 16 inch

Will I eventually lower this car only if I think it'll improve handling otherwise I couldn't care less

RCAs – still not shipped

……………………………………………

Donor car;

Received the title in the mail today, now it can be hauled off to the junkyard

Any other parts I need off it??

……………………………………………


Motor items I need to get;

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler
Who knows

Added

SI axels


==========================================

Today

Taillights

Earlier I had swapped the taillights to LEDs (brake / tail lights are actual LEDs, while the backup light and turn signals remained incandescent)

Which btw brings up a subject – when swapping the tail lights, my turn signals bulbs were white – behind a red lens..

After the swap – the turn signal lenses are white, and the bulb was white – illegal in the US

So I drove it for a day like that…, knowing – if I use my turn signals – I was breaking the law… if I didn’t use my turn signals – I was breaking the law – yippee

===========

The bulb in question is a 7440 single filament (not the 7443 dual filament) – and needs to be either red or amber

No auto parts store I know of carries it – called em all – every stinkin one of them

It can be had on line – but that takes time to ship

Found it at the Honda dealer (17.00 for a pair – appears I need to start a bulb business)


Anyway, back to the tail lights – I had this bright idea of swapping the above turn signal bulb out with an LED bulb – a 7440 should be a 7440

Nope – the LED bulb will not fit in the hole – thought about dermal-ing out the hole – but then decided no

Sometime – mods can go too far – this one has reached its limit

Another note;

If you swap to LEDs on the turn signals – you’ll need to add a resister in parallel to simulate the load of an incandescent filament

Other wise your turn signal will cycle (blink) quicker than the speed of sound

============

Hood scoop

Made a template from cardboard, positioned on the hood – and was about to cut a hole – then thought better of it

Didn’t have the mounting hardware (nuts/ bolts/ washers)… and wanted to install a rubber gasket – which upon thinking about it – believe I’ll just run a wide bead of black 5200, and not fab a rubber gasket

Now I have the hdrw, and plan for a gasket – tomorrow the hole gets cut


===============

Back to those PITA halo lights

So I purchased, what I “thought” – was a pair of quality HID Halo headlights –from a reputable supplier – boy was I ever wrong

Out of the package

Neither light worked (connected directly to a known charged battery)

The rubber cups (weatherproofing the bulbs) over the halos – fit like crap (the cups are too short for what they’re trying to cover and don’t fit at all)

When I went to remove one of the bulbs on the driver’s side H3 – the screws holding the retainer clip fell out (they were stripped) and the pot metal (comprising the area around the where the bulb fits into the reflector) was cracked

========

Contacted the supplier – may as well been talking to the wall – they’re maintaining I don’t know what the hell I’m doing – yeah okay…

I also attempted to find a replacement reflector – that ain’t happening so;


Today I tore into them, this is what I found/ came up with

Wiring was bassackwards – positive output of the ballasts were connected to the negative side of the bulb.., and vise versa – on every bulb…

Also a few of the spade lugs were poorly crimped (loose)

Fixed the wiring – all four lights work

As for the stripped out screws/ busted up reflector base – used some masking tape to make a form around where the hold down screws (on the reflector base) – screw in…

Mixed up some JB weld…, built up the area.., inserted the screws

Tomorrow I’ll know if it worked – initial indication is looking pretty damn good

…………………………


The rubber cups over the halos; If they were only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch longer – they would fit perfect

Looked on line for replacements – that ain’t happening – so time to improvise….

These boots are about 3 inched in diameter… hhhmmm they make rubber, pipe end covers, for 3 inch pipe…

Went to Lowe’s and found one – it would work… but they only had one – crap

Looked around some more and stumbled across a rubber 4 inch to 3 inch downspout connector.

The 3 inch end looks to be about a 1 1/2 inches long

Bought four, took them home… cut the 3 inch section off..., split the cup (cut the bottom off about 1 /4 of an inch above the end..., then inserting the 11/2 inch long 3 inch section between the cup ends – thus elongating the overall cup length by 3 / 4 on an inch

Used contact cement to glue in the mid section

So far – appears it's going to work (glue need to dry completely)


Lights should be installed tomorrow

And why contact cement instead of rubber glue – its all Lowe’s carried – it should work, and remain pliable – we shall see


Ghost

 
Rep Power: 291

Sounds like a really good and nice project you got going on.
Keep us updated. and we love pictures!

 
Rep Power: 313

Looks great. I think I saw your thread in another forum. Good luck fitting the type "R" suspension onto the EM2. Even with the K20 it's a pain in the ***.

 
Rep Power: 0

Kenny/ Blue

Thank You Gents

As for pictures – teach me how and I’ll post away – whatever you’d like to see


The other forum/ thread – not me Sir – this is the only one I've joined

The suspension also came with the wishbones – hopin they will bolt right up – fingers crossed – we’ll see once I get the RCAs


===================

Today;

Scoop

There is a nice new hole in the hood, covered with a scoop – sweet (I’ll do a small dyi in later in this post)

Lights

Lengthened cups – worked

Jb weld – worked, bulb is installed and solid

Didn’t install them today though, but I did plug them into the car’s harness – they work

I wanted to let the contact glue dry/ set a bit more, also have some new front bumper clips arriving tomorrow – so later in the week they should be done

Trunk Leak

Climbed in the trunk (damn it is small) and had my better half spray water over the area – near as we can tell water is leaking at the very back end, where a seam is formed by adjoining sheet metal

This seam is behind a second piece of sheet metal making access a bear

Options – remove the trunk lid gasket and see if I can gain access that way (as the appears the water follows the gasket down, then goes underneath it somehow

Use the truck bed liner spray and see if I can maybe patch the hole with that

Calk/ RTV

Something else ??

Need to think and research on this a bit – in the meantime the leak remains


======================


Car upgrades remaining;

Fuel System; pulled the fuel tank from the donor car/ purchased a dual fuel pump hanger / and plumbing the 04 Honda w/ -6an SS feed and return lines.., full flow fuel filter/ regulator

Wiring up a dual relay harness to power the dual fuel pumps..., good news is, the stock fuel gauge sending unit bolts right up to the aftermarket hanger

The plan will be to drop the existing tank, bolt the modified one in then plug N play with the stock harness (the wires currently powering the existing fuel pump will power the relays feeding the aftermarket pumps)
Rained last night – first time since buying the car – trunk leaks – needs fixed

Windshield cracked from P side to D side along the bottom – may or may not replace it

Adding:

Thought about a roll cage today – one side of me says be safe and add one, other side says I don’t want to fool with it

Have the material and tools to do it… just not the want to

What I really need, is to figure out what I’m going to end up doing with this car


……………………………………………

Suspension upgrades remaining;

Waiting on the rear upper (adjustable), and rear lower control arms they've been on back order for over two weeks

Need to find 5 lug wheels with the proper offset (what I want may not work)

Wider tires and probably 16 inch

Will I eventually lower this car only if I think it'll improve handling otherwise I couldn't care less

RCAs – still not shipped

……………………………………………

Donor car;

Received the title in the mail today, now it can be hauled off to the junkyard

Any other parts I need off it – nope – time to get it gone
……………………………………………


Motor items;

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler
Who knows
SI axels




Removing these two;


Adding a hood scoop (not for additional air in, but to exhaust hot air out of the engine bay) have the scoop, just need to cut a hole in the hood and mount it (heat kills motors and HP)

Adding HID halo headlights (This one is being a real PITA)


=======================================
Okay the hood scoop dyi

Disclaimer;

Not saying this is the only, or best way – simply offering it up as assistance


Tools

Safety glasses
Gloves
SS – Bolts/ fender washers/ self locking nuts
Jig saw w/ metal cutting blade
Drill
3 drill bits – one for the jig saw pilot holes/ one for the mounting bolts pilot hole/ the last one big enough for the mounting bolts
Masking tape (I prefer the blue kind)
Large towel (preferably one from a hotel you um “borrowed” many/ many years ago )
Cardboard template of the scoop – with the center cut out the same size as the scoop’s hole – and it should be an inch or two bigger than the scoop
Silicone calk
Calk gun
Plastic putty knife
Dremel w/ carbide bit
Couple of short 2x4s
And of course the Scoop


============================
Put on the safety glasses and gloves

Mask a centerline down the hood

Mask the scoop to the cardboard template

Place both on hood and position

Mask (mark) the front and back edges of the scoop, onto the hood, where you want the scoop to sit on the hood

Measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look/ measure/ look –from all angles – twice/ thrice/ how ever many times it takes to suit you/ get it right

Make sure you like where it is sitting

Let’s face it – easy to get impatient with this step – but if you screw up the placement – you’ll be staring, and reminded, till the day you sell the car

So take your time, and get it right, life will be good

Tape the template to the hood

Remove the scoop from the template – leaving the template taped to the hood

Again – verify you like the placement

Open the hood and place the towel over the engine, directly beneath where you’ll be cutting (to catch the metal filings)

Place the 2X4s on their edge, under the front of the hood – this’ll raise the hood up far enough so you not sawing into the engine

Lower hood down onto the 2X4s edges

Again – verify you like the placement

Drill a pilot hole near the corners of the template – where scoop hole is to be

Hope to hell you like the scoop placement because now you are committed

Cut out the scoop hole

Btw the cardboard will also give you a surface to run the jig saw over – thus NOT scratching your paint

Note – you will be cutting into the center brace of the hood – don’t worry about it – the hood is still solid and rigid after that section of brace is removed

Remove the towel, shake it out, and replace

Remove the template

Place the scoop on the hood and align it to the hole

Tape scoop in place

Drill one mounting bolt hole – in one of the corners of the scoop’s mating surface – through the hood, and through the scoop’s mounting surface

Caution – use the pilot drill bit first, then use the full size bit – and go at a slow drill speed as the bit is breaking through the metal, and starting to touch the carbon fiber…

Carbon fiber is easy to drill through, bit it also likes to grab the drill bit and then nasty things can happen

Drill slow

Next, drill the full size bolt hole

Install the bolt, two fender washers, and the self locking nut

Tighten slowly till snug – and only snug

You can then swivel the scoop for a perfect fit

Drill remaining holes and install the bolts/ washers/ nuts

Caution;

Always tighten the bolts slowly and equally so no undo stress is placed on the carbon fiber


Should the hood hole and scoop hole not match – either cut a bit more off the hood’s hole, with the jig saw…, or use the dremel and carbide bit to widen the scoop’s hole

May as well get em matched perfectly

Now close the hood and admire your work – for a minute or two – as there is still work to do

Next

Tape completely around, and butt up next to – the edge of the scoop – including the corners

Remove the scoop from the hood (yeah unbolt it)

Paint the edge of the hole you just cut in the hood, and the holes you drilled into the hood for the mounting bolts (protect from rust)

On the scoop, run a goodly amount of silicone completely around the lip of the scoop (mating surface with the hood), flatten and even out with the plastic putty knife

Reinstall the scoop

Slowly and equally tighten all the bolts

The tape you put around the scoop will keep the silicone off your paint, should you slip while reinstalling… and it’ll also catch whatever silicone oozes out as you’re tightening the bolts down

Remove the tape – you’re done (oh and don’t forget to remove the towel and 2X4 – else more of those nasty things could happen)


However if you’re like me – you’ll drop a nut/ washer down into the scoop – usually the last nut/ washer you’re installing – which with then require the removing of said scoop completely to get the damn thing out

Although this last step is optional…, doing it 4 or 5 times typically leads to a few choice words, and frustration – what the hell…, may as well join in the fun – SO JUST DO IT and enjoy

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 313

I am stupidly educated in the Type "R" swap for EM2s. Even if you run the K20A2 USDM engine you need JDM K20 Type "R" axles because they are slightly longer to fit the longer front hubs of the type "R" RSX. Hopefully it came with the aluminum control arms from the type "R" because they are 1. badass and 2. slightly more elongated so the ball joint lines up with the type "R" knuckle.

The rears arent too bad, just make sure you get the proper offset wheels (I Think it's 60). Also for the rears try to make sure you get the EP3 e-brake cables as all the brackets line up, whereas the RSX you need to omit 3 brackets and even then the cables are a little too short and don't go into the car properly. Unless you can somehow mock up holes for them to bolt up.

You need to add pictures to photobucket or something of the sort, then you just link them onto here. I'm very interested in seeing this

 
Rep Power: 291

Yep, we are very interested, especially so much work going into the car.

Just upload the photos onto imageshack, or photobucket, then just link them here.

If the links break, we can fix them.

 
Rep Power: 0

Blue,

I see you have an 05…., mine’s an 04 – so whatever one of us does should apply directly to the other




That is an important bit of information (that I need the JDM K20 Type “R” axles)

Thank You


======================

This isn't the exact suspension I bought.., but it is identical except for the axles and ebrake cable – they were not included with mine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-RSX-Type-R-K20A-Front-and-Rear-Brembo-5-Lug-Disc-Brake-Rotors-Calipers-JDM-/350754185391?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51aa9420af&vxp=mtr
Yup, came with the aluminum LCAs


===============================

Ebrake cables;

Crap, I need to check, but I’m almost certain I got the RSX ebake cables

If so, I’ll order the EP3’s

===========================

Please gimme me a day or two to take some… then I’ll bore y’all to death w/ pics



Many Thanks

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 313

Check my build thread if you want some input on the Rsx Type "R" swap. I didn't go type "R" in the front but it's all in there. You can see the type "R" rear end installed and rolling.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...5-lug-em2.html

RSX cables WILL work. But they won't be perfect, to say the least I'm still running RSX cables until I can snag some EP3 ones up cheap.

 
Rep Power: 0

Let's see if this works

Notes

suspension;

What appears to be rust on the hub - isn't

The grey color on all over the suspension is anti seize - stuff gets everywhere

Tie rod ends are the bigger ones required for the DC5


Hope I didn't over do the pics

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Sweet stuff!!

 
Rep Power: 0

A great thread... and I really like the Blue Honda


Thanks

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank You

 
Rep Power: 291

Mmmmm, we love pix.

Sweet.

Not a huge fan of the hoodscoop though.
Hoodscoops just don't look quite right on civics.

 
Rep Power: 0

Car upgrades remaining;

Fuel System – complete wiring harness / install

Windshield cracked side to side, along the bottom – may or may not replace it

Roll cage??

Adding:

Gauge cluster – figure out which gauges

……………………………………………

Suspension upgrades remaining;

Waiting on the rear upper (adjustable), and rear lower control arms they've been on back order for over two weeks

Need to find 5 lug wheels with the proper offset (what I want may not work)

Wider tires and probably 16 inch

Will I eventually lower this car.., only if I think it'll improve handling…, otherwise no

RCAs – still not shipped


Adding;

JDM K20 Type “R” axles

EP3 e-brake cables

Will I need a different M/C for brakes


……………………………………………

Donor car;

Have title – get it hauled off

……………………………………………


Motor items;

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks


Can’t say I like the scoop looks either…, but it’s more for function rather than form

Only item I've really installed for looks was the rear wing

Heck even the sun roof air deflector was to quiet wind noise/ stop things getting blown out at highway speeds – I really don’t like the looks of it either

 
Rep Power: 0

Rained most of this past week – did a lot of bailing the trunk out

Donor car – gone (wrecker driver like to talk... and talk… and talk)

Ordered – JDM DC5 axles / EP3 Ebrake cables

RCAs came in – sans the 10 point socket – have one on order

Removed the sun roof deflector – between it/ the wing/ and scoop – there was too much going on for my liking

Headlights installed – need adjusting (I like em)


Tomorrow

Adjust headlights / fix the trunk leak

========================

Car upgrades remaining;

Fuel System – complete wiring harness / install in second fuel tank

Windshield cracked side to side, along the bottom – may or may not replace it

Roll cage??

Gauge cluster – figure out which gauges


……………………………………………

Suspension upgrades remaining;

Need to find 5 lug wheels with the proper offset (what I want may not work)

Wider, 16” tires
Long lug nuts
Will I eventually lower this car.., only if I think it'll improve handling…, otherwise no

RCAs – received
JDM K20 Type “R” axles – on order

EP3 e-brake cables – on order

Will I need a different M/C for brakes

……………………………………………


Motor items;

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler

……………………………………………

Removing

Donor car



=================================


Borrowed this from another post; credit goes to robbclark1

Torque specs

Front nuts and bolts that hold shock assembly to brake assembly(2 on each side):
116ft lbs. (includes oem replacement bolts)

Front end links:
29ft lbs

Front bolts that hold the bracket and bushings on front sway bar:
29ft lbs

Front nut that secures tie rod to shock assembly:
32ft lbs

Front and rear shock tower nut in center (on top of shock)
33ft lbs

Front three shock tower nuts (on top of shock around center bolt)
33ft lbs

Front brake hose and wheel sensor harness bracket bolts:
10mm one: 7.2ft lbs
12mm one: 16ft lbs

Rear bolts to rear upper arm or camber kit (all three):
43ft lbs

Rear nuts on end links:
top: 28ft lbs
bottom: 29ft lbs

Rear bolt that holds brackets and bushings on rear sway:
16ft lbs

Rear bolt that holds bottom of rear shock:
45ft lbs

Rear two shock tower nuts:
43ft lbs

 
Rep Power: 313

Looks great can't wait to see it progress.. Get rid of the hood scoop though I agree with Kenny.

 
Rep Power: 0

Anyone done a DC5 swap onto a 7th Gen.., and can recommend wheel offsets, please?

(I've searched and came up with a lot of conflicting info)

Stock 7th Gen = 38 to 43 (best I came up with)

Stock JDM DC5 = +60

Like to go w/ 16" wheels/ tires - with the tires as wide as possible with out rolling the fenders


Plan "B" - buy a set of beater wheels and tires from a junk yard, install, then drive to discount tire



Thanks
Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Car Upgrades

All ancillary upgrades complete, should find out tonight if the trunk leak is really fixed (according to the weather man)

Remaining;

Gauges

Install Fuel lines in/ under the car

Install pump hanger into spare fuel tank (harness is complete and verified)

Decide on roll cage


Suspension

Have all parts - need to assemble, then install onto car

Lug nuts - have

DC5 axles - have (more on these later)


Remaining;

eBrake cables - shipped

Wheels and tires (decide on offset)

(side note - damn Mugen M7 wheels are expensive..., I like em - but NOT for what they're asking)

Swap/ upgrade the M/C - ??

May install the suspension this weekend - maybe



Motor

Wiring harness
Throttle cable
Header/ full exhaust
Fuel Rail
Throttle body
Front clip
Radiator / inner-cooler


I'm dragging my feet on the motor items and will follow the motor guy's recommendations (that way there is no excuse for not meeting the targeted HP)


------------------------------------

Okay, some common sense deductive reasoning on axle lengths;


Stock motor / stock suspension = stock axles

K20 motor / stock suspension = SI axles (this is what was on the donor car, SI axles are longer than stock)

K20 motor / DC5 suspension = DC5 axles.., a reasonable assumption and makes sense (btw the DC5 axles are ~1" longer than the SI axles

Stock motor / DC5 suspension = I'm guessing SI axles..., or may need to mix and match


Various notes;

The motor guy will be swapping the motor

I'll be swapping the suspension

I need to decide if I'll swap the suspension first, or have him swap the motor first


Spline count on the DC 5 hubs/ axles = 28 (I counted and marked them 5 times)

Spline count on SI axles = don't know, I need to separate the hubs and axles and count them (I'll post once I find out)

Spline count on stock 04 Honda = don't know, but eventually I will (and I'll post it)

Ultimately the axles (I think it'll be the DC5s) installed for the K20/ DC5 configuration will be upgraded to aftermarket 800HP axles

Called two shops (supposedly both experts with these types of swaps), neither could answer which axles / or axle lengths I need for the different configurations

Although one told me to install the suspension, measure, then call them and they would build em



Bottom line;

Between now and Friday decide if I'll swap the suspension... or wait till after the motor is installed



Drive it like you stole it

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Howdy Doo All,


Update (and apologies if this post comes off as spastic but there's lot of crap rolling round in my head)


Trunk leak;

Leak is down to a drizzle BUT there is still water coming in (iow my initial attempt failed)

Ordered a new gasket (though I don't think it is the gasket)

Plan is to rip the old gasket off, find where the water in coming in and weld it (okay I'm kidding about the welding part)

Once I find the gap, I'll fill it / plug it / calk it / glue it / whatever - but it will get fixed - then install the new gasket

====================

Swap the suspension or motor first?

Question was answered for me via an update

Motor will be back from Cali on Apr 23 rd... it'll take the motor guy about a week to prep... then it gets installed (~ 2nd week in May)

I'll do the suspension after that as I don't want anything impeding the motor install

======================

Fuel system;

Motor guy looked at everything I pieced together, and mostly liked it... the only change need to upgrade the feed line, from the pump to the rail, to -8AN (instead of the -6AN)

Parts on order (hose, connectors, fuel filter)

=================

Axles

DC5 = 28 spline into hub

SI/ Stock = 26 spline into hub

DC5 = ~ 5MM bigger round, than SI (end that fits into hub)... also DC5 is ~ 2 inches longer overall (I first incorrectly stated it was ~1 inch longer)

The ends that fit into the trans are identical (as one would suspect)


Had a bitch of a time separating the axle / hub on the donor car's passenger side / driver's side was butter

Recall, passenger side suffered the brunt of the impact... and it acted like it (all else fails get out the hammer/ chisel and angle grinder)

=====================================

Suspension

All but done, waiting on the ebrake cables and tires / wheels

Ebrake cables = in the mail

Tires = Will be Goodyear Eagle GTs either 215 or 225/ 50 x 16 (like as wide as will work without rubbing)

Wheels;

I've spent a goodly amount of time looking at wheels... and to me - the "classic tuner" style wheels all look the same... and I don't like any of them

Soooooo

Other than the really expensive M7s... below is the only other style of wheel I've found that I like

Would prefer a wider 8" rim... but this is all I could find in this offset


http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-inch-aero-wheels-rims-5x4-5-5x114-3-cl-rl-rsx-tl-tsx-legend-mdx-200-lhs-300m-/110955405273?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d5751fd9&vxp=mtr

Anyone have any other wheel suggestions - I'll surely take a look at em

================

Very helpful link


https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...-2001-em2.html


================
Finally got the license tags - had to drill holes in the front bumper - evidently the state where the car was initially bought/ registered didn't require front tags

Hdwr store sells those plastic inserts and bolts for mounting tags for ~ .25C ea - no biggie


==========

Items added/ deleted

Nothing really either way

I am jacked about the motor... but honestly... also a little nervous

Lot of power to be putting in a rolling beer can


Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Howdy All


Few things to cover this evening

Allow me to state/ restate the project

Take a 2004 Honda Civic Coupe; swap in a K20A motor..., and a complete JDM DC5 ITR suspension

I restate this so I'm clear..., and we all can keep this project separate from EP3 swaps - of any kind


=========================

Axles

As you view the pics

Bottom is the donor driver side

Next up is one of the SI axles I purchased for the K20 swap - with the stock suspension set up

Upper two are the DC5 axles specifically needed for the DC5 complete suspension swap

DC5 axles are longer..., bigger round at the hub end..., have 28 splines...., in stead of stock 26 at the hub end..., and the hub nut is 36MM - compared to the stock 32MM hub nut










Next

Ebrake cables

I have/ had a set of RSX cables (Dorman p/n C660730..., and C660833)

It was suggested I needed a set of EP3 cables


Following pics compare the two (I taped each side of the DC5 to its EP3 counterpart)

Length = exactly the same

Brackets = the same, with the following exceptions;

RSX has one extra bracket, on one cable, near the hand brake end - that can be easily removed

So essentially - they are the same




















Trunk leak

Think I fixed it this time

It was a combination of;

Old gasket not properly sealing

Years of dirt accumulating under old gasket

A gap, at the very rear, where the inner and outer sheet metal connected

Cleaned the dirt..., filled the gap with silicone..., replaced the gasket

Ran water over the trunk - dry as a bone

Waiting till the next good rain before I stick a fork in it (and call it done)



Next set of pics is simply some eye candy

The new headlights

The finished fuel pump

One side of the suspension (personally I think its sexy, not as sexy as my wife mind you..., but gettin close)

















This pic is for posterity (the before)

I'll take another once the motor swap is complete






Add;

Need 36 MM socket


Remove;

Potentially the trunk leak


Side comment;

If you are, or plan to work on your car - invest in a good service manual (Haynes, Chilton, or manufacture)..., but either way - consider it an investment that'll pay for itself many times over


Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Howdy All,


It’s been a bit since the last update, but then nothing much has happen to update

=================================

Trunk leak – it rained, trunk remained bone dry – that one is done

Received in the 36MM socket for the JDM axle nuts – it fit


==================

Motor

I thought, based on an update – the block would have arrived back a week or two ago – it arrived today (pic of it, and the head enclosed below)

So now the block is off to a local machine shop to get bored and honed – then back for assembly

Head is done

I’m thinking in ~ 3 weeks the motor will get installed


==========================
Suspension;

Been researching frame upgrades in order to stiffen the entire car – decided to fab up some sub-frame connectors…

Also looking into sub-frame X bracing

==========================
Throttle cable;

Ordered an 04 RSX throttle cable, and it "appears" to be too long

So I ordered a K20 Tuned throttle cable - we'll see it if it is the correct size and report here


====================
Wheels

Still searching…. Did find some Drag 27 machined Wheels I like (in fact I like em better than the previous wheel I posted here)

This link is a sample of what I referencing


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drag-DR-27-16-16x8-25-5-114-3-15-FULL-MACHINED-FACE-WHEELS-RIMS-MUSTANG-/271203364466?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f24faee72&vxp=mtr

========================================

Tomorrow I'll try to take some pics of the other stuff for the motor swap (radiator/ fan shroud/ shifter cables/ ect.)

Anyway, here’s the block and head









Ghost

 
Rep Power: 313

Have you put the RSX ebrake cables on yet? Mine werent exactly the same, much shorter with the brackets at different locations.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey Blue

No Sir, not yet

I’m holding off swapping out to the JDM suspension until after the motor swap – otherwise I would need to buy (actually make because they don’t sell them) an interim set of axles to fit the D17 motor / JDM suspension


I do plan to take pics of the suspension swap and post em


But the first step is to get the motor swapped and broken in


=======================================

Btw; If you want these EP ebrake cables, you can have em if you’ll pay for the shipping

I’m planning to use the RSX cables and remove the 1 extra bracket - so I don’t need em

They are the same length


Ghost

 
Rep Power: 313

I'd mock the cables up if I were you. Order some SI ones if they don't fit just right. This looks awesome, BTW.

 
Rep Power: 0

The motor is done

Dropped off the car this evening

Motor guy said it'll take about a week/ week and a half

Then

I'll post some pictures when I get it home





Next steps;

Break in the motor

Swap the suspension

Need wheels & Tires


Ghost

 
Rep Power: 192

I laughed when I read the "600 hp" part of your goals...but after reading the thread I realized you weren't kidding lol. It'll be interesting to see how everything turns out, good luck!!

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks RJ

No doubt it's a farfetched goal, but also one of the reasons I'm doing it (crazy *** Texan)



Depending on the part of Texas you live in we may see each other on the road / track one day - flag/ wave me down and say howdy

I'll be the Honda with the stupid looking hood scoop... LOL..., but, I do have a plan to change that (more on this one later)

Take Care
Ghost

 
Rep Power: 0

Progress Baby

I picked up the original motor/ trans last night and got a look see - all I can say is damn







Remaining;

Plumb the fuel lines
Wire the motor
Fab the exhaust
Start
Tune

Motor guy thinks it'll make ~550 hp on pump gas / 750 + w/ race gas (he also said the block would handle that and more)

I'm going with pump




Should be about another week give or take (I've asked him to take his time and get it right)

I'll post the dyno sheet and more motor pics when I get em

=========================
btw;


Anyone needing a D17 motor w/ 5 speed trans (108k miles) - I've got one to sell


Ghost