New to me 2000 civic
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From: Fredericksburg Virginia
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New to me 2000 civic
Greetings all. Just wanted to post a quick hello as I recently acquired a 2000 civic as a first car for my son. In my youth I owned a few CRX’s, so figured with the cheapness and availability of parts that a civic would suit him well. The car is a 2 owner MT ex w/150k orig unmolested miles. So far we’ve swapped out the faded headlights with new eBay ones and performed all the maintenance items including fluids, belts, hoses, pads, thermostat, Water pump, timing belt, plugs, wires, etc. with OEM. Most recently we picked up a set of xxr 15” wheels w/ tires off of CL. Now going through the gaskets, seals and vacuum lines to replace those. I picked up a replacement steering wheel from local junk yard for $20 that’s in great shape to replace the chewed up rubber one currently in the car. Interior is perfect other than the crappy door panels and drivers window reg. Searching for a drivers door panel now. The clutch seems great and am a fan of the d16 engine. Ideally I’d love to find an engine off CL or locally off forums to build in the garage as a project. Here as pictures as she sits now. If there is anything else you think should get addressed let me know.
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Based on your location, maybe it isn't an issue but have a look at the fuel lines (supply, return, vapor) and the 2 rear brakes lines. They run together in a plastic tray under the car. Here in snow and salt country that tray tends to trap salt and dirt which probably sped up corrosion.
I have a 97 coupe and I replaced these lines in the past couple of years. I used copper-nickel for the brake lines. It's flexible so it can be bent into the necessary shapes as you work the line into place.
For the fuel lines, I used nylon for the supply line, and fuel rated rubber hose for the return and vapor lines.
I have a 97 coupe and I replaced these lines in the past couple of years. I used copper-nickel for the brake lines. It's flexible so it can be bent into the necessary shapes as you work the line into place.
For the fuel lines, I used nylon for the supply line, and fuel rated rubber hose for the return and vapor lines.
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From: Fredericksburg Virginia
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Just read this...... lol. Friday I get a call from son who said he heard a snap and the brake pedal went to the floor. All fluid leaking out onto the road. After driving it home using the emergency brake and getting it up to look, it looks like a hard line broke running in that drivers side tunnel cage. After effing with that cage for about 30 mins, I’m not adding that annoying thing back. I was going to splice in a piece of line and cut out the old, but might just need to run all new. The fuel lines look ok though. Thanks for that timely post.
I did notice another small leak on the shift linkage boot. After cleaning it off it looks like it might be that seal in there so just ordered an OEM off eBay. The rear main looks alittle wet but it could be oil pan. I already looked at valve cover, vtec and distributor gaskets and those were fine.
I did notice another small leak on the shift linkage boot. After cleaning it off it looks like it might be that seal in there so just ordered an OEM off eBay. The rear main looks alittle wet but it could be oil pan. I already looked at valve cover, vtec and distributor gaskets and those were fine.
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I ended up replacing the wheel cylinders as well (I have rear drums). I couldn't get the bleeders to budge and in the end, the cylinders were fairly cheap.
I replaced the brake lines first, then after seeing the condition of the fuel lines and hemming and hawing about it, I ended up replacing those the following year.
From what I recall, the rear brake lines run to the front of the fuel tank, then go their separate way to each wheel well. Once they emerge there, there is a flex hose, and then another short rigid line on the trailing arm where it connects to the cylinder (in my case). Might be a bit different if you have all discs. In any case, I ran flexible copper for the main runs (from the proportioning valve all the way to the back) and bought premade short copper lines for the end lines.
I replaced the brake lines first, then after seeing the condition of the fuel lines and hemming and hawing about it, I ended up replacing those the following year.
From what I recall, the rear brake lines run to the front of the fuel tank, then go their separate way to each wheel well. Once they emerge there, there is a flex hose, and then another short rigid line on the trailing arm where it connects to the cylinder (in my case). Might be a bit different if you have all discs. In any case, I ran flexible copper for the main runs (from the proportioning valve all the way to the back) and bought premade short copper lines for the end lines.
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