frascati

Civic. 2000. 2 door. Automatic. No ABS. 1.6L. Medium skilled. On my own I've replaced cv joints, front wheel bearing, water pump, timing belt, adjusted valves, and more.

This fellows' vid looks like exactly how I'd hope this should happen.

Same model/year.

He doesn't link where he shopped on ebay for the lines, but he shows them at 2:03, mentions that he got them ebay, and they appear to have the right ends for unmodified installation.

This is all I found on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-00-Civic-2dr-Coupe-Replacement-Stainless-Steel-Fuel-Feed-Line-Rubber-Return/141796374057?_trksid=p2352135.c100669.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37107%26meid%3D8825ead901d54464a738dd2f3e29fffd%26pid%3D100669%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D141850572057
Is this the same? Looks like the 'click' link adapter is included?

Anyone have advice on these? I'm a bit confused by the OEM prebent steel supply/return lines from honda. The pair is not much more than the cost of these, but they dont actually go the final two feet to the tank, correct? Are they harder to install?

I'm all about easy on this task. Easy would be all about 500-600 dollars to have someone else do it, but I'm also short on cash today. Would the steel lines from honda be just as easy as his video suggests?

I also have to replace the brake lines (of course). Suggestions on an ebay vendor for those would be much appreciated as well. Unless such questions are not welcomed on this forum. I haven't been here in a very long time.

Easy.. again. Nylon brake lines? Or stick with steel?

Thank you for any help you can provide!

xxbgxx

if you want to replace the steel pipes i dont see the point unless its leaking , and when its leaking just get one from a scrape yard . replacing a steel fuel lines in not necessary unless you are going with a racing fuel cell .

as for the brake lines you can buy from any local automotive hose AC shop they carry original hoses and can crimp it for you.

ezone

Rust belt problems!

I'd buy a roll of brake line and fabricate. You can get the flaring tools from the Zone. Practice a few double flares until you are comfortable then run with it.

CuNi (Copper-Nickel alloy) brake line is by far the easiest to work with, but about twice the price of hard steel line. Well worth it for ease of bending IMO and (bonus) won't rot out again.






Fuel lines.....If there's still good steel line left, it may be simplest to clamp on some high pressure EFI hose and bypass the rotten parts of the original lines.

xxbgxx

hello ezone does flaring pipes manually gives good result

ezone

Yes if you do it correctly, that's why I said practice.

I've been bending and double flaring brake lines since before you were born (according to your age posted LOL).

frascati

I negleted to mention that part. They're not leaking... they're practially GUSHING. 16 years with that damn waffly plastic cover collecting salt and debris left the brake and fuel lines looking like a nest of paper wasps. What the hell was honda thinking here?

Brakes went out recently and i noticed a puddle under the middle of my car. No sweat. We can fix that. Then I see what's under the plastic shroud. Oh what fun.

Perversely engineered to trap moisture and corrosive salt. Hmm..? Our white-lab coated Japanese engineer ponders. Why stop here? Let's further entrap the brake and fuel lines in this shroud at a few dozen points with molded in clips. Collecting more corrosive junk yet, the clips become one with the lines, ensuring total destruction of the rust-flake and salt entomed mess that has been created by this whole misadventure in idiot engineering when the mechanic tries to remove the shroud for service. Just brilliant.

But i digress.

Is the CuNi really significantly better than plain steel? For the labor and time involved it seems money very very very well spent to avoid repeating this. Many junk-yard parts make sense. This one, for the small savings, doesn't. 2000 with 85000mi on it and no plans to unload it in the near future.

old97civic

+1 for the flexible Cu-Ni lines. I replaced the 2 rear brakes lines on my '97 last November. I ended up reusing the rubber flex lines where they enter the wheel well, but I replaced the short lines on the trailing arms. For these I used the premade 12" Cu-Ni lines. For the tighter bends I bent the line around a socket.

I also replaced the wheel cylinders, as I could get them for $19 each (and because I had to because the bleeders broke ).

I should mention, I looked at the front lines but they were fine, they are well protected in the engine bay. Night and day compared to the rear lines.

ezone

Does your area use Brine on the roads? Calcium Chloride?

I think they must use bleach and ammonia here some seasons.

Oh HELL YES. If you've ever worked with plain steel lines and suffered having to bend them (without kinking) in order to make them stay in the right places you'd know just how much of a PITA they can be. I even have real tubing bender tools to do this and it still sucks.

CuNi is soft enough to shape to your needs by hand. That alone is well worth the cost IMO.

Also, if your car has rotted brake lines, the rest of the car may not be too long for this world....that's up to you though.

On my old 90 Park Avenue I did all new (steel) rear bake lines, cylinders, shoes, etc., (it also rotted out the power steering lines at some point) a few years before I got the Civic I have now...By the time I got rid of the Buick there was a family of birds living in a rust hole. The car still exists AFAIK (gave it to my kid) and it's been all over the country since I gave it to him, but it already had one tire in the junkyard and was not expected to last long. It was low mileage and had a bulletproof drivetrain with a lot of life left....but the body was horrible.

xxbgxx

i was not aware of that,i dont have experience in snow related issues

as far as the honda cars are not region designed or modified the radiator might be fine for you but for me its not. even the venting the bumper is minimal . a loss of one liter or quart will make the engine overheat!!

xxbgxx

so your that old

ezone

*you're*


I've already forgotten more about cars than most people will ever know.

Wankenstein

Ezone was an apprentice to:

xxbgxx

your knowledge is obsolete cars today are made of PRP if you don't know that its Plastic reinforced paper ,just plain plastic and 200 meter of unnecessary wires and sensors .

and thanks for the English lesson

ezone

That's quite humorous.
I don't care if the car was carved from stone and logs.
My primary job is solving problems.

Oh, you're one of *those* people.
My best money comes from people who say things like that.
It was only a minor type correction. It is not a lesson unless it is learned.

xxbgxx

what you mean by those people ?
and why the attitude ?

yes my old 73 beetle used to get me from point a to point b without any of these sensors new cars have and it was very comfortable so from an engineering point view (which i hold a degree on) its unnecessary .

ezone

The only thing electronic in that Bug was the radio, if it came with one at all.
My first car was a 63 Bug. It had fewer wires than the 73 Bug.

It's hard to compare the dinosaur technology of those days to modern automotive technology.

ezone

Your legs, can you feel them?
Gasoline, can you smell it?

xxbgxx

yes its really comfortable for the legs if the car is in good shape , it would be nicer if it had a power steering but it wasn't that hard to steer . and the engine sound you get used to it if you don't like already

if you are referring to the issue of gas leak in the engine bay its easily solved by replacing the older than me fuel hoses with new one .

as for the frame i never had a problem.

the only thing i had an issue with is the cabin heater which can be solved with an aftermarket electric one .

back in the day where i used to live it , it was snowing alot and the only cars that used to drive around when it was sub zero was the beetle you just pour hot water on the battery and your clear to go.

i dont want to stress this topic more but the difference between old tech and new tech is material design , metals and alloys now are far more better than 50 years ago . the newer machines can give a better tolerance.

but older car building methods are better, newer methods are cost saving to increase profitability of the car .

a drive by wire cost less in mass production than cable and is easier to fix in mass production .

a plastic intake manifold is cheaper than aluminum. aluminum radiators cheaper than copper etc etc..

xxbgxx

Ezone nothing personal man .

Its just opinions tomato tomahto my friend .