bsmiley

I followed the guide here: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...diy-2-a-8.html

I also used the 2001 Civic repair manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WxhNkV6aWxTeFU

Taking it all apart wasn't bad at all.
I took the alternator in to a local alternator specialist and had it rebuilt. 180K miles on the original brushes is pretty good, $97 later here is it is:



I bought a cordless craftsman impact gun and it easily removed the crank bolt.

I replaced the cam seal and the crank seal.

After I got the new timing belt installed I temporarily installed the harmonic balancer (and wood ruff key) and used my new impact to tighten it enough so I could rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise and make sure all was well, I was still lined up at TDC with crank and cam, so I pulled the tensioner pin and ran it around a couple more times, checked TDC again... all is well.

I then installed the lower timing cover. Followed that with the alternator/motor mount brackets. After that I put the upper timing belt cover on.

I removed the jack (and wood block) from under the oil pan and then I removed the stiffener bracket and took off the oil pan. To do this I found it easiest to remove the two spring bolts from my exhaust pipe and take off the rubber grommet from the hanger.
The oil pan wasn't coming out until I took the two 10mm bolts for the metal cover between the oil pan and the flywheel.

My oil pan gasket was a pain to change. The hard part was getting the old one off. Somebody previous glued it with something powerful strong....
I used some hondabond on the corners per the repair manual. When putting the oil pan back on, no issues, but then I couldn't get the cover back over the flywheel. So I popped out the CV axle, installed the cover and popped the axle back in....

Next I replaced the rear transmission mount. Jack back under the oil pan. I used the impact gun to get the three 17mm bolts loose.
With the exhaust still loose it was pretty easy to get to all of the bolts.

Then I put back on the harmonic balancer and properly installed the crankbolt. That took muscles to get the 90 degrees the full 90. After 45 degrees its tough.

bsmiley

Today I finished up by installing the valve cover, the alternator (with a new belt) and the PS pump. Then it was time to install the battery.
I got the lifeblood in her... genuine Honda coolant and filled her with 5w-20. Double checked everything and started her up.
She runs just as she did before. Smooth like butter. I took care to keep the coolant filled until all the bubbles were gone and the fans had cycled.

So, no lights, no smoke, no funny smells, it seems no issues. Uneventful, that's how I like it.

I took a quick test spin to fill her with gas and I can feel the difference with the trans mount that I replaced. I wish I had gotten around to that before now, but now its done.

Keep posting tips, keep searching and stay thirsty my friends...

bsmiley

Anybody know if exhaust spring bolts can be had at auto parts stores? Obviously the Honda dealer, but I'd rather get them somewhere easy and fair priced....

Colin42

should be able to, phone and ask if you dont want to go in?

bsmiley

Yeah, I'm just being lazy. I actually found the dorman PN on Rockauto and ordered the spring bolt sets from Amazon. Came today, I already installed.

Colin42

Sweet!

scooty

If you ever seen your self having to remove those exhaust bolt again to drop the pipe, do yourself a favor and got to your local Honda dealer and replace those dormans from Rock Auto with genuine Honda parts. The dormans will rust solid shortly and snap in two when you try to remove them. Don't ask how I know.

bsmiley

Dang, not even spring bolts are decent quality anymore....
I'll add some to my next Majestic order... thanks for letting me know.

alex_nyc

can you use anti-seize grease on the spring bolts or do they get too hot?

Colin42

Probably too hot for antiseize. maybe some really high temp grease? Never tried it personally.