Newby w/ Q's
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I drive an 05 DX/VP it's a daily & long distance...so a turbo is out for now.
I am in need of advice on a few things I have seen others doing....
1. ECU Flash.... worth it & will it hurt MPG's.... and exactly what does it do & where should I buy from...?
2. Voltage Regulator Is the Hyper Voltage System HR/MR worth getting ?
I currently have a generic unit on...came with car... but I have no idea if the Hyper would be better....?
And finally is there much more i can do to get just a little bit more performance from my ride.... aside from Turbo.... here's a list of mods I have.
Motor:
CIA, T-Body Spacer, Pulstar Plugs, FlowMaster 60 Series exhaust (removed resonator). Running 90 or better Octane
I know NEWBY Q's can get annoying, however I hope mine aren't the normal Q's.....!!!
Thanks in Advance !! Scot
I am in need of advice on a few things I have seen others doing....
1. ECU Flash.... worth it & will it hurt MPG's.... and exactly what does it do & where should I buy from...?
2. Voltage Regulator Is the Hyper Voltage System HR/MR worth getting ?
I currently have a generic unit on...came with car... but I have no idea if the Hyper would be better....?
And finally is there much more i can do to get just a little bit more performance from my ride.... aside from Turbo.... here's a list of mods I have.
Motor:
CIA, T-Body Spacer, Pulstar Plugs, FlowMaster 60 Series exhaust (removed resonator). Running 90 or better Octane
I know NEWBY Q's can get annoying, however I hope mine aren't the normal Q's.....!!!
Thanks in Advance !! Scot
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wtf is a CIA? and second, NOBODY has an ECU flash, unless your looking to spend like $600+ for a KPro. Might as well turbo. And secondly, running 91 (im assuming by 90 you mean 91) octane WILL NOT add power to your engine, just burn more fully, therefore leaving less emissions. Third, the resonator IS NOT a performance drain, the catalytic converter IS.
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OK... sorry fingers didn't type what my brain was thinking...
CAI Cold Air Intake.
I fully understand the resonator isn't as restrictive...just mentioned that is was removed.
I also understand a ECU Flash is exspensive... however... cheaper than a Turbo... as stated a Turbo is out for now..... unless they make one for under $1,000 & is of good quality.
Yes, I thought I was being serious...as I am ignorant to the Tuner upgrades etc...
As I mentioned.... I see what others are doing to their rides & see things like ECU Flash, Voltage Regulators...etc..... so being a NEWBY.... I was wondering if these things actually work or just hype.....
Thanks
CAI Cold Air Intake.
I fully understand the resonator isn't as restrictive...just mentioned that is was removed.
I also understand a ECU Flash is exspensive... however... cheaper than a Turbo... as stated a Turbo is out for now..... unless they make one for under $1,000 & is of good quality.
Yes, I thought I was being serious...as I am ignorant to the Tuner upgrades etc...
As I mentioned.... I see what others are doing to their rides & see things like ECU Flash, Voltage Regulators...etc..... so being a NEWBY.... I was wondering if these things actually work or just hype.....
Thanks
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^I was asking out of all seriosness, I dont get off on bashing new members.
Well, a voltage regulator is something your not going to need if you have a non-shitty battery, and dont have any demanding electrical stuff- like a huge sub box in the back. Granted I dont know much about them either.
ECU reflash- there really isnt a reflash for the 7thgen ecu's. There is piggyback's that you attach to your ECU's output and it modifys the signal and lets you mess a little with fuel and timing, small things like that- these are less dependable because our ECU is a learning ECU and it will continue to correct the fuel mixture after your altering it because its not within the ECU's desired specs.
Thats why people go to stand alone systems like the AEM EMS (engine management system) or the new Hondata application for our car - Kpro. Both of these are going to run you over 1,000 bucks, and if you dont have a heavily modified engine such as a turbo, or if your trying to run a really high compression and built block and head, then your just not going to need these guys. If you have an intake, header, exhaust- the ECU will take car of it on its own and you'll see a few HP increase from these. Our motor/ECU isnt too responsive to boltons... thats why you'll hear everyone yapping their head of- "go turbo!" Turbo kits are going to cost you several thousand, what- like 3,000 these days? and then you have to pay to get it installed if you dont do it yourself, and pay for a tuner to tune your stand alone or piggyback to make your car operate with all this new hardware- a stock ECU just wont be able to handle it and it'll die every single time.
I hope that clears somethings up for you.
If you want to get performance from your ride, swap to an EX exhaust system- aftermarket of course. The DX header is way too constrictive and you can gain a noticeable difference in throttle responce and an improved top end- its nothing big, but you will notice it. The stock EX header is just fine. Read the FAQ link in my sig for a breakdown on this.
Aside from an exhaust- getting a lighter wheel/tire combo is going to help you use the power you have more efficiently. Also swaping to an EX head with a stage 1 cam will give you a noiticeable icrease in power. To do this, search for xproductions DIY on this site for the EX headswap. You'll need a vafc2 if you dont want to change the engine harness and the ECU out. Cam is 300-350, head is 150-175 on a good day, vafc2 is 170ish. Ex head you can probably pick up for 50 bucks, an ex downpipe might run you a little higher- like 100 bucks. Granted these prices are just ballparks- the can be higher, or in some cases will be lower, but this is what you can expect to pay.
Damn this got long quick- another thing, learn how to use the rep function!
Well, a voltage regulator is something your not going to need if you have a non-shitty battery, and dont have any demanding electrical stuff- like a huge sub box in the back. Granted I dont know much about them either.
ECU reflash- there really isnt a reflash for the 7thgen ecu's. There is piggyback's that you attach to your ECU's output and it modifys the signal and lets you mess a little with fuel and timing, small things like that- these are less dependable because our ECU is a learning ECU and it will continue to correct the fuel mixture after your altering it because its not within the ECU's desired specs.
Thats why people go to stand alone systems like the AEM EMS (engine management system) or the new Hondata application for our car - Kpro. Both of these are going to run you over 1,000 bucks, and if you dont have a heavily modified engine such as a turbo, or if your trying to run a really high compression and built block and head, then your just not going to need these guys. If you have an intake, header, exhaust- the ECU will take car of it on its own and you'll see a few HP increase from these. Our motor/ECU isnt too responsive to boltons... thats why you'll hear everyone yapping their head of- "go turbo!" Turbo kits are going to cost you several thousand, what- like 3,000 these days? and then you have to pay to get it installed if you dont do it yourself, and pay for a tuner to tune your stand alone or piggyback to make your car operate with all this new hardware- a stock ECU just wont be able to handle it and it'll die every single time.
I hope that clears somethings up for you.
If you want to get performance from your ride, swap to an EX exhaust system- aftermarket of course. The DX header is way too constrictive and you can gain a noticeable difference in throttle responce and an improved top end- its nothing big, but you will notice it. The stock EX header is just fine. Read the FAQ link in my sig for a breakdown on this.
Aside from an exhaust- getting a lighter wheel/tire combo is going to help you use the power you have more efficiently. Also swaping to an EX head with a stage 1 cam will give you a noiticeable icrease in power. To do this, search for xproductions DIY on this site for the EX headswap. You'll need a vafc2 if you dont want to change the engine harness and the ECU out. Cam is 300-350, head is 150-175 on a good day, vafc2 is 170ish. Ex head you can probably pick up for 50 bucks, an ex downpipe might run you a little higher- like 100 bucks. Granted these prices are just ballparks- the can be higher, or in some cases will be lower, but this is what you can expect to pay.
Damn this got long quick- another thing, learn how to use the rep function!
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^I was asking out of all seriosness, I dont get off on bashing new members.
Well, a voltage regulator is something your not going to need if you have a non-shitty battery, and dont have any demanding electrical stuff- like a huge sub box in the back. Granted I dont know much about them either.
ECU reflash- there really isnt a reflash for the 7thgen ecu's. There is piggyback's that you attach to your ECU's output and it modifys the signal and lets you mess a little with fuel and timing, small things like that- these are less dependable because our ECU is a learning ECU and it will continue to correct the fuel mixture after your altering it because its not within the ECU's desired specs.
Thats why people go to stand alone systems like the AEM EMS (engine management system) or the new Hondata application for our car - Kpro. Both of these are going to run you over 1,000 bucks, and if you dont have a heavily modified engine such as a turbo, or if your trying to run a really high compression and built block and head, then your just not going to need these guys. If you have an intake, header, exhaust- the ECU will take car of it on its own and you'll see a few HP increase from these. Our motor/ECU isnt too responsive to boltons... thats why you'll hear everyone yapping their head of- "go turbo!" Turbo kits are going to cost you several thousand, what- like 3,000 these days? and then you have to pay to get it installed if you dont do it yourself, and pay for a tuner to tune your stand alone or piggyback to make your car operate with all this new hardware- a stock ECU just wont be able to handle it and it'll die every single time.
I hope that clears somethings up for you.
If you want to get performance from your ride, swap to an EX exhaust system- aftermarket of course. The DX header is way too constrictive and you can gain a noticeable difference in throttle responce and an improved top end- its nothing big, but you will notice it. The stock EX header is just fine. Read the FAQ link in my sig for a breakdown on this.
Aside from an exhaust- getting a lighter wheel/tire combo is going to help you use the power you have more efficiently. Also swaping to an EX head with a stage 1 cam will give you a noiticeable icrease in power. To do this, search for xproductions DIY on this site for the EX headswap. You'll need a vafc2 if you dont want to change the engine harness and the ECU out. Cam is 300-350, head is 150-175 on a good day, vafc2 is 170ish. Ex head you can probably pick up for 50 bucks, an ex downpipe might run you a little higher- like 100 bucks. Granted these prices are just ballparks- the can be higher, or in some cases will be lower, but this is what you can expect to pay.
Damn this got long quick- another thing, learn how to use the rep function!
Well, a voltage regulator is something your not going to need if you have a non-shitty battery, and dont have any demanding electrical stuff- like a huge sub box in the back. Granted I dont know much about them either.
ECU reflash- there really isnt a reflash for the 7thgen ecu's. There is piggyback's that you attach to your ECU's output and it modifys the signal and lets you mess a little with fuel and timing, small things like that- these are less dependable because our ECU is a learning ECU and it will continue to correct the fuel mixture after your altering it because its not within the ECU's desired specs.
Thats why people go to stand alone systems like the AEM EMS (engine management system) or the new Hondata application for our car - Kpro. Both of these are going to run you over 1,000 bucks, and if you dont have a heavily modified engine such as a turbo, or if your trying to run a really high compression and built block and head, then your just not going to need these guys. If you have an intake, header, exhaust- the ECU will take car of it on its own and you'll see a few HP increase from these. Our motor/ECU isnt too responsive to boltons... thats why you'll hear everyone yapping their head of- "go turbo!" Turbo kits are going to cost you several thousand, what- like 3,000 these days? and then you have to pay to get it installed if you dont do it yourself, and pay for a tuner to tune your stand alone or piggyback to make your car operate with all this new hardware- a stock ECU just wont be able to handle it and it'll die every single time.
I hope that clears somethings up for you.
If you want to get performance from your ride, swap to an EX exhaust system- aftermarket of course. The DX header is way too constrictive and you can gain a noticeable difference in throttle responce and an improved top end- its nothing big, but you will notice it. The stock EX header is just fine. Read the FAQ link in my sig for a breakdown on this.
Aside from an exhaust- getting a lighter wheel/tire combo is going to help you use the power you have more efficiently. Also swaping to an EX head with a stage 1 cam will give you a noiticeable icrease in power. To do this, search for xproductions DIY on this site for the EX headswap. You'll need a vafc2 if you dont want to change the engine harness and the ECU out. Cam is 300-350, head is 150-175 on a good day, vafc2 is 170ish. Ex head you can probably pick up for 50 bucks, an ex downpipe might run you a little higher- like 100 bucks. Granted these prices are just ballparks- the can be higher, or in some cases will be lower, but this is what you can expect to pay.
Damn this got long quick- another thing, learn how to use the rep function!
I'll sum this up...
Either get a swap or F/I
/thread
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