Rep Power: 0

took it upon myself to install a cheap ebay header since my oem header was about to fall apart..

before



heat shield removed revealing the crack, and a roasted wasp i think..



header removed, that is p.b blaster on the ground btw in case your wondering..



-edit: after driving 80 miles


all in all i think it took me about 2 hrs and 30 mins, and this is basically my first time turning a wrench on a car..
fired it up, no leaks, took it for a wot run and dont feel much difference up top, but i definitly feel a difference in the mid range.

so i am now catless, using the weapon R CEL eliminator, and so far its working fine.

so we'll see how long this cheapo header lasts, if it cracks anytime soon i guess ill just do a ex exhaust conversion since im now confident in my ability to do it myself.

 
Rep Power: 313

Ebay intake or not! Nice job Did you torque it down to the proper specs? If you overtightened the nuts it will be a nightmare to remove

 
Rep Power: 256

nice job but cheap headers tend to rust very quicklyi woild remove it and paint it with high heat header paint and i would get rid of that cheap air filter asap.

 
Rep Power: 511

or find a place that'll ceramic coat it for ya

 
Rep Power: 0

yea, i ordered a aem dry flow
and i didn't evan think of painting the header...

 
Rep Power: 511

on the dry flow

 
Rep Power: 313

Take your time, lots of thin coats with some time inbetween.. high temp spray paint. You might want to scuff it down with some fine sandpaper too so the paint sticks... high temp primer might even be a good idea too if you can find it.

 
Rep Power: 511

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

 
Rep Power: 0

does the header throw a check engine light? or what do you have to do to prevent that?

 
Rep Power: 511

Yours will because you've eliminated the catalytic converter. Ways around that is to do the spark plug non-fouler thing or convert to an ex exhaust setup.

edit: just read you're using a CEL eliminator.. disregard my post.. What code is it throwing?

 
Rep Power: 511

just realized your post.. lol.. You'll strip the threads before you overtighten them..

 
Rep Power: 313

True, but if you don't put them on the the torque spec you'll never, ever get them off after a few years of corroding

 
Rep Power: 0

itll last. i have a similar ebay header and it's lasted for probably 2 or 3 years now. hasnt rusted at all but it did discolor from the heat.

 
Rep Power: 0

whats this CEL eliminator and spark plug non fouler thing? sorry for so many questions, i tried searching and im still totally lost.

 
Rep Power: 313

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...simulator.html

That's the defouler. It basically backs up the o2 sensor so it does not detect as much gases after the cat has been eliminated. Turning off your check engine light which comes on due to the o2 sensor.

 
Rep Power: 256

with your car you can't use the defouler trivk because its to long and will hit your alternater you need to get a Angled mechanical simulater megan racing makes one for 25 bucks.
http://www.robearracing.com/pd-megan...or-cel-fix.cfm

 
Rep Power: 313

^ Good call

 
Rep Power: 511

he said he has a weapon-r one, which (from their website) looks like it does the angled bit.

 
Rep Power: 256

thats the first one i bought and then found out it was to long to install with the header on the car so i didn't feel like taking it off and just ordered the megan one.

 
Rep Power: 0

I don't even see the megan racing one on there website anywhere...

 
Rep Power: 256

what model car do you have ??? the link i put up goes directly to the megan angled simulator i dont see how you can't find it.

 
Rep Power: 0

the weapon R CEL eliminator fit on my car just fine, just make sure you put it on the header before you put the header on the car. 300+ miles with it so far and no CEL ( my commute is 80 miles a day ;o )

 
Rep Power: 214

The reason why you have to get a defouler for an after market header is because the cat if it still has one is not like the oem cat. If you look into a cat all it is is a big honeycomb and where the secondary sensor is it is basically surronded by a big wall. When you take it out of that wall it will sense all of those gases just like the primary sensor which causes the check engine which is usually called o2 sensor below the threshold. When you put it in the defouler it acts just like that cat with the wall.

But a ebay header is a great replacement for a header if it cracks or anything. It is cheap rather than the oem cat which is expensive.

 
Rep Power: 0

my bad, i never seen the link haha.

 
Rep Power: 0

hey when a installed mine

ther was a error on the cluster the engine check showed up

that was only about 3 or 4 days then dessapear by his self a never came back since 3 years ago,

now our days this light came up and i scanned so the issue iis the o2 sensor, the issue was, for drivin in first gear for about 2 miles at 2500 revs, i took away the sensor and it was burned,
why driving in first gear for 2 miles, cuz my clutch master cilynder is broken, son pressure


saludos banda!

 
Rep Power: 0

im thinking about getting an ebay header too? who did you buy it from? did it bolt up to your stock exhaust? in have an 02 ex. im new to the scene... so can someone explain how to eliminate the cat without throwing codes all day?
a newb question in know....

 
Rep Power: 0

you won't have any problem with throwing cel code's cuz you car is an ex, different exhaust setup. Just make sure when you search it on ebay the header your looking for is to fit an ex, not a dx or lx.