Turbo question?
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Turbo question?
I have a 2k1civic dx i am looking into running a t3/t4 garret with sparco intercooler not sure about custom exhaust manifold wastegate and bov. would my car be able to take it would i need new pistons valves vlave springs? also would i be able to use some of the piping from my aem cai?
alright thanks
alright thanks
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Check all the turbo posts.....it's been covered....I don't believe theres an exhaust manifold out yet.......
Theres a few people on here that went FI.......And it depends what your boost is......1-8???....i think 8psi is max without harming your internals......
Theres a few people on here that went FI.......And it depends what your boost is......1-8???....i think 8psi is max without harming your internals......
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spearco intercooler
turbo link for 7thgens
as long as u dont go to far over 8 psi like he said ur stock insides should be fine
turbo link for 7thgens
as long as u dont go to far over 8 psi like he said ur stock insides should be fine
The turbo set ups for our cars aren't that bad, you are looking at some hidden cost tho. If you are going to do it tho you are going to have to have that piping bent for your car no matter what, you could reuse your intake but sense you already have to do pipe work,especially if you get the intercooler, just spend the extra couple bucks and have it all redone and sell the intake, I'm sure that would cover the cost of the extra pipe work.
do your fuel system first before you even think about what turbo set up youre running. anyone with a good working turbo 7th gen has had to modify the fuel system in some way. i know riceburner did stuff with fuel pressure regulators or something, but i chose to go with a full on return system.
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I would have to agree with civicpunker since he just finished the first step of it
, either way first thing you gotta get done is the problems with the fuel line then think of what turbo to use.
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The fuel system we have is enough for up to 8psi with an additional injector and computer, or computer controlling larger injectors in the engine. Above that, the pump cannot pump fast enough to keep up. Besides, the engine can't take much more than 8psi before you start breaking things, so unless you're rebuilding the engine, there's no need to go return on the fuel setup or anything more than changing/adding injectors.
Mine was nothing with fuel pressure regulators, it's a Haltech F5 running an additional GReddy 460 injector placed before the throttle body. Still stock FPR, fuel pump, and lines.
Mine was nothing with fuel pressure regulators, it's a Haltech F5 running an additional GReddy 460 injector placed before the throttle body. Still stock FPR, fuel pump, and lines.
we actually used an aftermarket fuel pump in the tank. i think b&m makes it but they said it took a while to modify whichever one they used. now i hear a pretty cool "whiiiiir" coming from the back, but hopefully itll quiet down once my seats are back in there.
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Yeah, that's what I'll be doing when I do build the engine, there's a B&M that, with slight modifications, can me made to work perfectly.
Could have done it now, but I'm not running over 8psi until I rebuild the engine anyways, so not necessary yet.
Could have done it now, but I'm not running over 8psi until I rebuild the engine anyways, so not necessary yet.
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Different engine, different combustion chamber dimensions.... I seriously doubt the exact same thing that worked on a D16 will work on a D17.
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i believe the only thing keeping us from running higher levels of boost is fuel and our weak pistons/rods. the D16 pistons have a bore of 75mm as do ours. the only thing that is different is the stroke. i beleive our stroke is 94.4mm and the D16 is 90mm.
that piston/rod combo works on the D16 with minor mods like thicker head gasket and notching of the bottom of the block so the B16 rods will have enuff clearence. since our stroke is longer might require more mods for it to work. just thought it might be a cheaper alternative to gettin custom made piston/rods? wut other rods could work?
oh and what does the motor spinning the oppsoite way have to do with the piston/rods?
that piston/rod combo works on the D16 with minor mods like thicker head gasket and notching of the bottom of the block so the B16 rods will have enuff clearence. since our stroke is longer might require more mods for it to work. just thought it might be a cheaper alternative to gettin custom made piston/rods? wut other rods could work?
oh and what does the motor spinning the oppsoite way have to do with the piston/rods?
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